Jump to content

WA issues...


r.ocelot

Recommended Posts

Too bad real msh won't fit.

I wanted to use them for cosmetic purpose.

 

And, I have a prime msh on m V10, was a drop in fit in the prime v10 kit, and it looks so nice. Having cnc checkering is so better than the casted one.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 477
  • Created
  • Last Reply
When I insert a magazine into my V10 with the slide forward there is more resistance than there should be, then when I go to pull the slide back, the slide moves but the nozzle sticks forward, therefore there's no bb in the first shot.

 

In addition to this, if I cock the gun, insert the mag, then let the slide forward to load the bb, the first shot is often weaker than the following shots..

 

The gun has prime frame, sd slide, prime chamber, and sd nozzle/rocket valve.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

ta.

 

Sticking nozzle could be the SD unit having slightly different tolerances, but I doubt it - however it's an easy "try" to refit the OE unit.

 

Also you could put the two restictors back in, this would limit the amount of nozzle travel, thus increase the chances of being pulled back with the slide, once again an easy one to do

 

Load one or two less BB's in it, it could simply be too much tension applied to the bottom of the nozzle via the full mag.

 

Light striking - Remove the BB and spring from the hammer, make sure the firing pin is straight before replacing.

Test -see if this cures the light strikes, if it does put them back in and:

 

1. Assuming and if you have one, make sure your trigger overtravel screw is correctly adjusted for minimal overtravel, about half 0.5 to 0.75mm is about right. (see 3) test again...........

 

2. Place a BB under the hammer spring, this will speed up the lock time of the hammer, and hopefully beat the firing pin spring (which is essentially too strong making the firing pin hook up too fast missing the mag valve as the hammer drops). not sure how much room you have in the Compact -maybe not enough?

test again.........

 

3. On the nose of the sear, remove the portion that doesn't engage the hammer. i.e. as the sear is pointed away from you with the concave face towards you the upper r/h portion. Take the thinner lip down to the ledge. Assemble the gun without the beavertail to see this more clearly if you are not familiar. Note that this may have already been done by WA if it's a later SCW2. What can happen is that overtravel on the trigger will push the sear and lift the firing pin when it's at it's strike height.

 

I don't have any pictures to hand to show you I'm afraid

 

Also check the mag valve (if it's just one) for stickiness when depressed whilst empty.

 

Feel free to send the gun to me and I shall sort this gratis for you :)

Link to post
Share on other sites
cheers mate, I'll have a tinker then let you know..

 

about the two restrictors, do you mean the two white pieces that go in the sides of the blowback unit.. because they're already there :o or do you mean something else entirely which I'm totally overlooking..

 

ta.

 

I did mean those restrictors - I couldn't remember if SD supplied them with the upgrade nozzle set - maybe take them out then ;)

 

Best of luck and let me/us know how it goes

 

M.

Link to post
Share on other sites

from what I can tell, the problem comes from the piece at the bottom of the nozzle, the part which loads the next bb, it sticks on the magazine as it moves backwards.. (ie the top of the nozzle clears the chamber but then the nozzle sticks as the bb loader is supposed to move over the bb follower in the mag)

 

ta.

Link to post
Share on other sites
from what I can tell, the problem comes from the piece at the bottom of the nozzle, the part which loads the next bb, it sticks on the magazine as it moves backwards.. (ie the top of the nozzle clears the chamber but then the nozzle sticks as the bb loader is supposed to move over the bb follower in the mag)

 

Hmmm, it's possible that if you smooth the underside of the loading stem (the bit on the underside the nozzle), specifically the edges and the angle change near the front it will help, but stay away from that front face that hits the BB on the forwards stroke! Hopefully that will help it glide more over the mag full of BB's..................hopefully ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have several issues with my Prime-kitted WA Kimber MARSOC with Guarder internals.

 

1. Racking the slide back when the magazine is empty results in the slide stopping about a centimeter before the end on its' return, I think it's because the thing that pushes the bb out of the magazine is hitting the follower and the slide is staying there. I have to eject the magazine in order for the slide to fully return.

 

It's not a problem when the mag has bb's in, but surely this shouldn't be happening when it's empty?

 

2. Firing the first one or two shots out of a newly gassed/loaded mag results in the mag venting the gas out. It's an ordinary Wilson Combat mag that came with the gun when I bought it on here last year. It never happened when I first got it but now it happens every time.

 

Any ideas folks?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, as far as I can see it's all in place as it should be.

 

Maybe a seal or o-ring or something needs replacing, or should I get a new mag altogether?

 

Cos I'd quite like to sell this gun but I can't when it's in the state it's in, or I could sell it, but at a drastically reduced price.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Problem:

 

SCW3 Hybrid is having random light strikes. I tried to fix it by switching to an scw2 hammer and firing pin kit, but it would not fire at all. Switched the sear/disconnector kit to a SCW2 set, it was firing fine, however, the thumb safety is useless (the part that blocks the sear is too short). Any ideas on how to get my SCW3 sears up and running again?

Link to post
Share on other sites

PGC kit - little silver pin on the very last attached pic.

 

So how exactly does it sit in the frame?

 

Because if I slot in the little hole, it blocks the entry so the trigger disengage switch can't be slotted in. Or do I just slide that little pin all the way in, as far as possible. I haven't done that yet, because I'm afraid I can't get it out, if it's not the correct position.

post-19504-1179833191_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, me again.

 

So I installed everything, I have sanded the slide and frame down quite a bit.

but the slide seems to be binding a bit. What I have noticed is that it binds harder when the mag/clip is in. Any thoughts as to how to solve this?

 

Also when I pull the slide all the way back, the disconnector seems to tilt to the left of the gun. When it does this, it comes out of the groove and it jams up the slide.

 

I have temporarily solved this by inserting a piece of plastic into the hole that the disconnector is seated in, but are there any aftermarket disconnectors that could solve this problem?

 

Thanks in advance for answering all my noobish questions. I really appreciate your help and sharing of your knowledge!

Link to post
Share on other sites

The binding seems to be gone now, after I lubed the frame and slide.

 

The problem with the trigger disconnector remains though. I'm not too keen on having that plastic bit in there as a temp solution, can anyone point me to a decent trigger disconnector that would solve my problem once and for all?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Tom

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.