WA issues...

[Mathub]

Well, magnatech and scw3 barrel will fit on guarder scw chambers. As well as old magna barrels.

[amateurstuntman]

OK geniuses.

I have been offered this series 70 magna blowback in exchange for a madbull grenade launcher.

What scope for making it a beastly skirmish sidearm do I have?

It is magna blowback, I want it to hick hard, shoot hard and straight and look as "canon" as possible.

It already has a metal slide, what would I have to put into this thing to make it nails?

 

Sorry to bother you all but I am unsure about the swap and need to decide.

 

Cheers wonderful oracles of WA 1911 data.

[hitmanNo2]

I don't know anything about madbull launchers, but I can tell you the Series 70 is a $115 Magnatech Series 70 with a $100 metal slide (retail prices) And theres the fact that it's missing the rear sight, the slide catch notch backing has been removed and it's general state of appearance. So if your happy with it, it's probably worth the swap for the launcher considering your asking price for it.

 

Regarding upgrades, increased hammer and recoil spring I guess. Maybe a high flow valve. 6.01 inner barrel.

[amateurstuntman]

OK, a difficult to find sight, a couple of springs and a valve...

 

Doesn't look too bad. Thanks mate.

[charliecloud]

WA Kimber SCW2 with PGC slide, just changed over the stock chamber for a guarder metal chamber. It racks and slides perfectly, load a mag (no bbs) and its locks back after about 25mm and vents the mag. It then needs a good push to put it back into battery. It then racks normally again. I have fitted about a dozen metal chambers and never had this happen before. Anyone tell me whats happening.

Thanks

[Mathub]

Remove that egg-shapped thing in the hop unit.

[charliecloud]

Mathub, just tried that, you mean the egg shaped piece with the hole in it that the slide release catch goes though I take it. Same thing happens, very odd as it moves perfectly by hand

[hardboiledcop]

is it definately the chamber, something else hasnt slipped out of place when you installed it.

 

have you tried the slide on another frame, and have you filed any excess material off the chamber (I've only ever had prime chambers, so Im not sure as to whether Guarders tolerances are as bad.)

[the cleaner]

if anyones needs a cheaper & lighter alternative for recoil rods. . I can machine them out of some scrap 6061 aluminum rods I have. . they won't be the two-stage buffering type. . nor will they be threaded in two pieces. . that's too complicated for me to do at this time. You supply your own buffering pads

 

I've also machined recoil spring plugs (for full length rods). . .

 

I haven't turned on my lathe anything out of steel yet (well, at least for airsoft parts). . .I'd need to get some better lathe bits . . right now, only set up for aluminum.

 

any interests? shoot me an email.

[Mathub]

charlie, do you have a barrel bushing ?

If yes, when the slide get stuck, try to touch the barrel bushing a bit.

I had some issues with steel barrels and barrel bushing.

[twan]

I'm having issues with my WA US M1911A1 Transition Model. It only fires when I hold the trigger and let go of the hammer with my fingers. When i try to fire it normally, nothing happens. The magazine works fine in my WA Kimber so that's not the problem.

 

It looks like the hammer doesn't have enough punch by itself.

 

Any idea's?

 

Second question: how do you fill magazines with a bumper? I don't feel like screwing it off every time. Any suggestions for this? The tube of the gas bottle isn't large enough.

[Senor Bear]

Get an extender piece. I believe the AI propane adapter is able to fill deeper valves although not totally sure.

[notsotragichero]

Gun: WA SWAT Custom II SCW3

Upgrades: Guarder recoil springs (hammer and recoil), Guarder High Output Valve, PDI 6.01.

 

Problem: The gun currently has feeding / blowback issues. It started out with feeding issues (although it still wasn't currently blowing back enough). The gun would double feed, BBs would roll out of the barrel and eject out of the chamber... not good. It then escalated to not blowing back at all. It works like a springer now. It does not blow back and I need to cock after every shot (shoots fine this way). Before all of this happened, the gun shot beautifully. Any take on what could be wrong?

 

Also, upon taking the magazine apart I lost the extremely small spring that keeps the slide lock nub on the magazine extended when the magazine is empty... does anyone have a suggestion as to how to replace this extremely small spring?

[r.ocelot]

Look around your house for something which might use a spring like that, or an auto shop. Double feeds happen with the scw plastic lip mags very often, a PGC feed lip will fix it. As for the light strikes, 3 ways to fix it-

Replace the sear/disconnector/firing pin with a scw2 set, or disassemble the current setup, and file down the rough places. Lube helps too. SCW3, shall I say, truely suck balls. TM's 1911 design is much better, though blowback isn't as strong.

[notsotragichero]

Look around your house for something which might use a spring like that, or an auto shop. Double feeds happen with the scw plastic lip mags very often, a PGC feed lip will fix it. As for the light strikes, 3 ways to fix it-

Replace the sear/disconnector/firing pin with a scw2 set, or disassemble the current setup, and file down the rough places. Lube helps too. SCW3, shall I say, truely suck balls. TM's 1911 design is much better, though blowback isn't as strong.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Would these suffice?

 

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...ch_firing%20pin

 

and

 

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...ch_disconnector

or

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...ch_disconnector

which one?

 

I assume this is what I would need?

 

Also, do you reccomend the Guarder?

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i..._magazine%20lip

 

or

 

PGC

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i..._magazine%20lip

 

Also, how difficult it is to switch out the SCW3 parts for the SCW2?

[hitmanNo2]

OK guys, any idea on this.

 

WA 1911.

 

Thumb and grip safety on. Pull trigger. Nothing happens, all is good.

Gripping the gun, therefore disabling grip safety. Pull trigger, thumb safety and hammer drops. Not good.

 

Any idea on how to fix this? I assume it's due to an undersized thumb safety, so you can't really file something to sort it?

[r.ocelot]

Happens when you use a SCW3 safety set with a set of SCW2 internals. The sear block part is too short, you an epoxy a piece of plastic/metal to the locking section to fix it (or just use a SCW2 safety set).

[phoenix360mute]

it is an SCW2 set of both, but in an SCW3 frame

[r.ocelot]

Prime frame?

[hitmanNo2]

J-Armory.

[Mobius Strip]

Had this myself a couple of times, once was cured by an aftermarket hammer and sear set (the sear safety pad was thicker, thus the safety had to be fitted to it curing the problem.

 

The other time I drilled a precise 1.8mm hole in the pad of the safety that contacts the sear, inserted a 1.8mm rod (okay I cut down the drill with a carbide cutter) and used shock resistant rubber bonded cyanoacrylate to affix the rod in the hole assuring that it' wouldn't 'shear off' after time. Then cut the new rod to suit the sear!

This is just another approach of what Mr Ocelot suggested.

 

Take note of your contact pad on the safety - has it already been precut for a sear? Some are at WA, especially common for the SCW3 series.

 

WA do make aftermarket MEU ambi's - these haven't been cut in any way for any sear so would be a good point to start...assuming you want black or dark grey ambi's

[hitmanNo2]

Hmm, thanks guys, got a few options then.

 

How about this problem.

 

PGC MEU early fame with SCW3 internals and firing pin, SD slide.

 

It will fire fine for a few shots, maybe ten or so, then one of two things happens.

 

1. Hammer gets stuck in half cocked position.

2. Hammer doesn't fully return, even though it looks like it does. There is a difference in the sound the hammer makes when it impacts the frame. The normal sound is kind of a 'ting' whereas the other one is a more dull sound.

 

Sometimes, it will vent the mag just to rub it in.

 

I was 99% sure the issue was the wierd, seemingly superfluous bump on the SCW3 firing pin getting stuck on the top of the sear. As when I looked at the top of the sear where the firing pin travels over it, it had been worn down. Plus the fact that the firing pin wouldn't budge when I prodded it. So I filed this area down as much as I could without compromising the sear pin hole, but the problem still happens.

 

Then I switched out the SCW3 firing pin with an SCW2 one, but still had problems (the hammer didn't always stay back after firing for some reason)

 

Any ideas?

[hardboiledcop]

I can only suggest switching out parts with standard scw2 internals until you find the culprit.

 

I had this problem with my V10 before I sent it to MS, it only started after I installed a CP hammer/sear set.

[ThaFlash]

My buddy is having a problem with his WA. It's had some parts added on:

PGC Wilson Combat CQB Railed Frame/Slide kit

Guarder Chamber

Guarder Barrel

PGC SCW2 Firing Pin

CP hammer & sear

 

He'll get some good shots in, but then some light strikes and sometimes after what seems like a good blowback the gun won't fire with the hammer back. You need to nudge the hammer back a tad more and then it will click but when you pull the trigger it's a FTF.

 

I'm at a loss, everything went into his gun perfect, even the chamber didn't need fitting to get a smooth cycle; but the current problems are boggling.

 

I told him to check his hammer and sear to make sure there aren't any burrs which might help when that hammer gets stuck back... but not back far enough. But I don't know about the rest.

 

He did install that little brass pin that comes with the PGC frames.

[twin_cam]

Light strikes are firing pin related. The CP hammer and sear should have come with a reinforced retaining pin for the firing pin. If you are not already using it, you need to be.

 

PGC pins are not always the correct length and can mushroom at the tip. Try changing to a guarder firing pin. Also check if the firing pin springs back freely on its retaining pin when you compress it down. It should, as these type of pin problems are usually restricted to stock hammer assemblies causing the pin to snag.

 

Spend 11 bucks on the Guarder pin before you start mucking around with trigger overtravel and sear spring tension. If you have not already upgraded your hammer spring, now is the time.