Mathub Posted July 12, 2007 Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 twin cam, he's not refering to the firing pin pin, but to the pin you put in the frame on pgc kits. It's to prevent the firing ping from hitting above the valve. Link to post Share on other sites
twin_cam Posted July 12, 2007 Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 twin cam, he's not refering to the firing pin pin, but to the pin you put in the frame on pgc kits. It's to prevent the firing ping from hitting above the valve. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I realize that. I was trying to elaborate that the issues he is facing are almost always traced back to the firing pin or the firing pin retaining pin. The stock retaining pins will always deform to some extent under hard use, that's why you have to replace them with hardened steel as it is just a soft roll pin. I have used the complete CP premium hammer set with sear and firing pin. The CP pins do not always work with the PGC frames and cause light strikes. Switching to a PGC firing pin corrected this, until the PGC pin failed. I have not had these issues with PGC kits and CP hammer assemblies since switching to Guarder firing pins. As to the hammer not returning to full cock after cycling, this can be remedied by adjusting sear spring tension. It's time consuming, but that's life with a built airsoft 1911. One more thing, if the CP firing pin retaining pin did not allow the firing pin to swing freely, you may have to enlarge the mounting hole in the firing pin to get it to work correctly as this can also cause the firing pin to misalign and not hit the valve dead on. This is why I like to use SCW3 firing pin return springs in my SCW2 builds. Link to post Share on other sites
ThaFlash Posted July 12, 2007 Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 Thanks for the support He is using the CP retaining pin and the firing pin does move freely. I'll tell him to try out the Guarder pin. The thing with his sear spring tension is that it's not very stiff at all. But when that hammer gets stuck just before the point where it's ready to fire, the gun won't shoot. I mean you can push back the hammer, then pull the trigger; the hammer slams home but the gun never fires until you re-rack the slide. I find this very odd since the slide blows back fully before that hammer gets stuck. And his disconnector doesn't get stuck, it's fitted pretty free (that notch part that protrudes up from the frame). I'm thinking maybe that disconnecter (down in the guts of it all) is getting jostled out of position and catching the sear thus causing the hammer to stick. Maybe that's why racking the slide gets the disconnector back into position for the gun to fire again. Link to post Share on other sites
the cleaner Posted July 12, 2007 Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 if there's too much slack within the hammer assembly. .I shim(AEG) the hammer and all its components . .I also will disassemble all the "controls" and sears and debur all the "flash" from die-casting. . . I just try to reduce all possibilities of hang ups on mating/moving parts. This is why I like to use SCW3 firing pin return springs in my SCW2 builds This is why I *try* to stick to Magna. . .and just avoid all the issues with the SCW system...why mess with a system that works near flawless. I think the SCW firing pin assembly has so many problems because it's dependent with the hammer. . since they're tied together. .if you hammer has too much slack. .it may cause your firing pin to strike offset too. . every movement of the hammer affects the firing pins motion/function. Link to post Share on other sites
hardboiledcop Posted July 12, 2007 Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 if there's too much slack within the hammer assembly. .I shim(AEG) the hammer and all its components . .I also will disassemble all the "controls" and sears and debur all the "flash" from die-casting. . . I just try to reduce all possibilities of hang ups on mating/moving parts. This is why I *try* to stick to Magna. . .and just avoid all the issues with the SCW system...why mess with a system that works near flawless. I think the SCW firing pin assembly has so many problems because it's dependent with the hammer. . since they're tied together. .if you hammer has too much slack. .it may cause your firing pin to strike offset too. . every movement of the hammer affects the firing pins motion/function. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I would agree. But I've found the SCW guns to deliver more kick (very important to me) and very fast cycling speed.. and of course, the realism that comes from having the hammer fully drop as opposed to it sitting against the firing pin.. Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 Anyone ever experience the outer barrel-barrel bushing fit impede the slide movement? It's very strange. Sometimes I can fire off a mag or so and its perfectly fine, then the slide will return, but not all the way (maybe 2mm or so left to go). It then requires a pretty hard push to get it the rest of the way. It then requires a similar amount of force to pull it back that small distance too. This problem occurs with the outer barrel on and slide catch in. Doesn't occur with outer barrel on and no slide catch in. Doesn't occur with no barrel on and slide catch in. Is the best thing to do, sand/file the inside of the barrel bushing? Thats the only thing I can think of, but then I don't want to make that fit too loose... Link to post Share on other sites
Lon Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 Awesome thread, tagged. I'll be sure to read it if I have any trouble with my new Expert 5.0! Link to post Share on other sites
twin_cam Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 Are we talking about a metal slide, steel chamber and steel barrel? Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 Oh yeah, same gun as before - PGC MEU early fame with SCW3 internals and firing pin, SD slide. The barrel is stock I think, chamber is steel. Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted July 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 Chamber is steel? Try removing that egg shaped thing from the hop unit. Link to post Share on other sites
hkssr20det Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 Or try unscrewing the outer barrel a few turns. Not too much, but I have found that a few turns can cure a binding chamber. Also a higher quality bushing works wonders. Sheriff and SD are both pretty good. Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted July 16, 2007 Report Share Posted July 16, 2007 How about this one. Prime Series 70 metal kit with SCW3 internals. Sometimes when the magazine is in, the slide cannot be pulled back. Take the mag out and the slide will go back. It fires fine though. Is there a simple fix to this? as i'm sure i've experienced it before and it luckily went away by itself. Also the steel chamber likes to get the slide stuck. I've removed the egg shaped bit from the hop unit and filed down the chamber legs so they don't obstruct the slide catch. Any ideas? Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted July 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2007 Is the valve block depressing lever flush with the top of the rail? Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 quick question-is the magnatech/SCW 3 guns a mix of the older magna design with the newer SCW 3 design, or is magnatech simply a term used to describe their cheaper line with SCW 3 internals? Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 ocelot, yeah the valve block depressing lever is flush with the top of the rail. It can even go slightly under the rail level if it's pressed down. I've elongated the hole in the valve block lever, now i'm filing the underside of it where it pushes down on the sliding plate on the mag. It has got a little better, but I don't want to keep on filing it down, only for it to become unusable. Whats the best thing to do? ruchik, magnatech is the cheaper line with SCW3 internals. Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 im having a problem replacing the main spring housing on my gun. there is a gap between the bottom of the grip safety and the top of the MSH when i slide the new one in, where i can see right through into the the 3 prong silver thing. but the problem is that the holes, when lined up, do this. in addition, the holes themselves don't even line up rite! i thought this was a problem just with the new MSH, but when i tried putting my old one back on, the gap is still there, and the holes still won't match up quite correctly (they are ever so slightly misaligned). Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 nm fixed it with a bit of swearing, lube, and shoehorning the pin back in. Link to post Share on other sites
Chris North Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 Not really a problem, but does anyone remember a guide to fixing a WA's slide lock so that it can be released when you pull the slide back a bit? I know I saw it, but I can't remember what it was called and I really need a bit of info I think is in it. If anyone could help I'd really appreciate it. Link to post Share on other sites
hardboiledcop Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 take out the buffers on the spring guide.. Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted July 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 That alone won't let you pull the slide back enough... I think it was a post in the 1911's pictures thread, but that'll take too long to search....so: http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/index.ph...topic=62702&hl= Sorry if cross forum links are against the rules. Link to post Share on other sites
Chris North Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 Thanks a lot guys. It's for a KWC though, and I'm not sure that's what's causing the problem but I'll try anyway. Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted August 3, 2007 Report Share Posted August 3, 2007 i tried to zero my hopup today, but noticed something rather strange. it's been a while since i have played with a WA, so i played around with the hop a little to re-familiarize myself. turning the hop fully to the left caused the shots to curve downards like crazy, so i assumed this was to turn the hop off. but turning it all the way to the right didn't really have an effect either-the shots would start dropping at approximately the same range as the bb's did when the hop was turned all the way to the left. i had this same problem before with an overlubed gun, but i haven't sprayed any lube into the hopup area at all. the gun is brand new, and nothing is broken in it. can't figure out for the life of me what's going on. maybe the hop is slipping? Link to post Share on other sites
Hudabon Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 You dont typically want to be at the extreme of either end with a hop unit, in any gun. Maximum is rarely the best setting for the pistol, so try playing with it and finding good middle ground. Some hop ups like Tanaka's seem awful without being adjusted correctly, but when they are, they're great. Link to post Share on other sites
Clockwork_O Posted August 9, 2007 Report Share Posted August 9, 2007 I have a problem putting my WA SCW2 SVI back together! I screwed the Blue grip of and know I have a problem putting it back together so the trigger and safety work especially with the 3-spring plate. It doesn't seem to go back in. I'll post pictures of the parts later... I already took a look at the assembly guide for the 1911 but, the 2011 seem to be a bit different because the under frame is one part. Every help is welcome! Greetings Link to post Share on other sites
Clockwork_O Posted August 9, 2007 Report Share Posted August 9, 2007 The pictures: Upper Frame: Lower Frame: Please help me putting this 2 parts together so my SVI can shoot again Greetz Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.