ruchik Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 With a metal slide, is the chamber supposed to just drop in and also just fall out? How do you keep it from moving around in the slide once it's back on the gun? I don't have an aftermarket chamber with a hole underneath where the sight would be, so I can't secure it that way. Link to post Share on other sites
boomboomairsoft Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 im having an issue with my WA 1911 series 70 scw1. when i load up the magazine with gas and bbs and shoot, it only shoots the bb, like a nbb, so i have to cock the hammer and shoot (then it cycles fine) but once theres a bb in the chamber it does the same until about halfway thru the magazine then it starts cycling correctly wtfm8 Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted August 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 With a metal slide, is the chamber supposed to just drop in and also just fall out? How do you keep it from moving around in the slide once it's back on the gun? I don't have an aftermarket chamber with a hole underneath where the sight would be, so I can't secure it that way. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> It'll be fine, won't be falling out when you put the slide on. Link to post Share on other sites
hkssr20det Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 im having an issue with my WA 1911 series 70 scw1. when i load up the magazine with gas and bbs and shoot, it only shoots the bb, like a nbb, so i have to cock the hammer and shoot (then it cycles fine) but once theres a bb in the chamber it does the same until about halfway thru the magazine then it starts cycling correctly wtfm8 <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Â Sounds like it is light striking. SCW1 guns seem to have this problem sometimes. I would look into increasing the hammer spring tension (BB mod or using an upgraded spring). Link to post Share on other sites
boomboomairsoft Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 ###### that means i have to take the frame apart Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 IIRC, if you take out the mainspring housing, the hammer spring should be in there. Not hard at all. Link to post Share on other sites
TunerGuy Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 Correct, to removed the main spring housing, just tap out the retaining rod at the rear base of the grip, and it will slide out. Swap the spring or put a bearing under it, reset the cap, slide it all back into the grip, then tap the retaining rod back in. One minute, tops. Link to post Share on other sites
boomboomairsoft Posted August 24, 2007 Report Share Posted August 24, 2007 yea that did it, thanks all. Link to post Share on other sites
Pasch Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 Correct, to removed the main spring housing, just tap out the retaining rod at the rear base of the grip, and it will slide out. Swap the spring or put a bearing under it, reset the cap, slide it all back into the grip, then tap the retaining rod back in. One minute, tops. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Â I've never been able to reassemble the mainspring housing with a spacer in it or with an upgraded hammer spring. Maybe I just need a little bit more practice but once I have a new spring in there I rub my fingers raw trying to press brass tube down far enough for the pin that secures it to go back in. Tried shoving a screwdriver into the housing for a little more leverage but that mostly just resulted in me scratching up my mainspring housing. Â Is there a particular technique you're using to make the process go smoother? Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted August 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 You know how there's a brass housing for the hammer spring? well, get a flat head screw driver that's the width of that, and push the brass part in so you can insert the pin. Link to post Share on other sites
boomboomairsoft Posted August 28, 2007 Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 scw1 and scw2 slides are interchangeable yes? Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted August 29, 2007 Report Share Posted August 29, 2007 Yup. All SCW slides between all three version are interchangeable, IIRC. Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 I'm having a problem here. The Shooters Design recoil spring I have says its for a 5 inch para SV, and it's way to freakin' long. I can't put the spring in without it poppoing up or twsiting all out of shape. Can I clip the spring? If so, what is the proper length? Link to post Share on other sites
Mathub Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 SD springs are longer, but they are the right length assuming you have a long spring guide. Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 Nope. I am using the stock recoil spring setup, no full length guide rod. Link to post Share on other sites
Mathub Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 So cut it. Proceed coil by coil. Link to post Share on other sites
Lithium Jack Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 Guys, got a bit of an issue with my MEU. Think it's quite easily solvable, but I have no idea what I'm looking for. Â Â Basically, the hammer seems to be having some trouble cocking back: If I manually cock it, or pull the slide back slowly, it cocks fine... Â However if I rack the slide normally or use the slide release, the hammer just drops. (The trigger pull also seems insanely light now, as well, don't know if it's related) Â Anyway, would appreciate any help on what might be going on / how I can fix it. Â Ta. Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 If the trigger pull is really light, it might be that your leaf spring is worn out or not in place correctly. Not too sure about the hammer-might be related tot he leaf spring too. Link to post Share on other sites
the cleaner Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 Nope. I am using the stock recoil spring setup, no full length guide rod. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Â yes. .cut it. . the key to recoil spring length is stiff enough but short enough that when you pull the slide back, your slide release engages (with mag inserted, obviously). . . Â UNLESS you're going for a race gun. . sometimes, you want a faster cycling slide which means a longer recoil spring(that fills up as much space on your recoil rod & plug as possible) that doesn't engage your slide release lever. Â Basically, if you pull your slide back. .you want the slide/nozzle to stay back just beyond clearing the mag feed lip. If you tune the recoil spring length right, you'll cycle very fast. . but blowback action will be minimal. . .this will allow double tapping easier (with a tuned trigger too) Â for your setup. .I'd move to a full length recoil rod and "through hole" recoil rod plug. More reliable and predictable performance of your slide. Link to post Share on other sites
the cleaner Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 If the trigger pull is really light, it might be that your leaf spring is worn out or not in place correctly. Not too sure about the hammer-might be related tot he leaf spring too. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Â hammer issue is either related to the mainspring housing assembly or the hammer sear/disconnector. . most likely the latter. . depends what you mean by "having trouble cocking". . either the hammer is very stiff to pull back which means your mainspring is very stiff (which is good). . or if the hammer is kinda sticky and you have to force it. . then it's your hammer sear/disconnector. . Â if you disassembled your hammer/safety assembly at one time. .you probably didn't install everything back in their proper position. Â trigger pull is light. . meaning? your trigger goes back all the way into the grip before engaging the disconnector/hammer? or it's got a "hair trigger" meaning you barely have to touch the trigger for the hammer to drop? Â Sounds the latter. . which means your leaf spring is not worn (worn means it loss its springiness) . but the trigger bar of the leaf spring is bent too far in.. .which puts too much tension on the trigger making it have a "hair trigger". Sounds like any vibration/shock causes your hammer to drop. Link to post Share on other sites
Lithium Jack Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 Thanks Cleaner. Â Yeah, by "Light" trigger I meant that the "hair trigger" issue... I'll try bending the the leaf spring back a bit. Â Â And sorry, I didn't make myself clear re the hammer. Basically, the hammer won't stay back/cocked: Â The hammer goes back fine and with the normal amount of resistance, but if the slide moves forward with any degree of force (i.e pressing the slide release from the locked back position); or if I manually pull the hammer back too quickly, it'll just drop back down again. Â Hope this makes it a little clearer... Link to post Share on other sites
tomster Posted September 2, 2007 Report Share Posted September 2, 2007 The thumbsafety on my MEU seems to be quite loose in the sense that when I flick it to safe when the 1911 is cocked and locked, it sometimes tends to just come loose. This causing the spring and pin above the left hand side grip to fly out. Â Is there anyway to secure the left thumbsafety without using glue, as I would still like to be able to disassemble it when needed? Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted September 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2007 Thanks Cleaner. Yeah, by "Light" trigger I meant that the "hair trigger" issue... I'll try bending the the leaf spring back a bit. And sorry, I didn't make myself clear re the hammer. Basically, the hammer won't stay back/cocked:  The hammer goes back fine and with the normal amount of resistance, but if the slide moves forward with any degree of force (i.e pressing the slide release from the locked back position); or if I manually pull the hammer back too quickly, it'll just drop back down again.  Hope this makes it a little clearer... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> 2 possible solutions: 1) The middle prong on your leaf spring needs to be bent toward the front of the frame a little more. 2) The locking notch on your hammer is worn down. You can either reprofile it, or you can do yourself a favor and get the full CP set. It's only $53 for a steel hammer, strut, firing pin, sear, and the hammer strut/firing pin retention pins. Is there anyway to secure the left thumbsafety without using glue, as I would still like to be able to disassemble it when needed? Teflon tape is your friend. Link to post Share on other sites
boomboomairsoft Posted September 6, 2007 Report Share Posted September 6, 2007 is it possible to put an SCW1 .45 into and SCW2 frame? i already have the scw1 and cant find an scw1 metal frame/slide kit, and i dont want to buy another gun atm... Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted September 6, 2007 Report Share Posted September 6, 2007 Yup, but you'll need a SCW 2 hammer and firing pin set. Link to post Share on other sites
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