gunaholic336 Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 Are Hi-Capa 5.1 outer barrels and chambers compatible with a TM 1911? Link to post Share on other sites
RacingManiac Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Are Hi-Capa 5.1 outer barrels and chambers compatible with a TM 1911? yes... Link to post Share on other sites
Laxplayer19x93 Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 If I put a guarder full metal frame on a TM M1911-A1, could it run propane with no problems? Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 remember.. it will still do some wear and tear.. but I have seen em chew through propane... just don't expect as many shots per magazine (gas) fill, however. Link to post Share on other sites
chris u'5 Posted June 14, 2008 Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 When fitting a metal slide what is the best method to achieve the best results? Should I use a needle file and run it along the slide rail or should I use sandpaper? I have been trying to remove material from both the side and bottom of the slide rail is this the best thing to do? Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted June 14, 2008 Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 Well, I ain't a 'smith. Things that *I* have done to my gear have varied... depending on what I want done. Not in this/any order - I have used some fine-ish grit sandpaper (about 200.. have yet to see the realllly fine stuff in this country.. dammit) I have a dremel tool that I have a few heads for (grinding, polishing, etc) I have just sat and racked the slide backwards and forwards repeatedly, with a HINT of silicone to the rail/slide connection. Link to post Share on other sites
amateurstuntman Posted June 15, 2008 Report Share Posted June 15, 2008 What I do for a silky smooth finish is strip all the plastic parts out of the gun, take all the little spring loades parts and the hammer group etc. out so it is just the slide, frame, the blowback mech and the little internal chassis that it has. Then I cover it in that metal polish with the bits in and slide it back and fourth to polish one part with the other. Then I go to a finer polish. It works very well. Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted June 16, 2008 Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 I have considered that metal polishing/cutting agent. I just never had a need to, I guess. Link to post Share on other sites
msx361 Posted June 23, 2008 Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 Im looking for a metal body kit to put on my TM 1911 and i have desided on either the PGC make or the NOVA make, my question is what one has the best finish and what one is less likely to need a lot of filling and sanding to get it to work properly? Or is there a better make to go for? (not really bothered about cost). Thanks in advance. Link to post Share on other sites
RockDog Posted June 23, 2008 Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 Nova, definatley has the best finish and is good quality all round, but I have just installed a PGC Black DX kit on my 1911 tonight and Im well chuffed with the quality of it. I did have a silver PGC Delta frame, but wasnt overly impressed with the look of it. If you have any questions just drop me a PM mate. I also have a question while Im here. Hop up rubbers, its the only thing I havent upgraded on my 1911 now, so whats the benifits of the hard and the soft. I have seen both and im wondering whats the ideal one to go for for better accuracy. Thanks Nick Link to post Share on other sites
msx361 Posted June 23, 2008 Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 Thanks for the reply mate. I may need some help installing it when i decide which to get Did either make require much fitting or did it just work? I know that AEG hop rubber work like so; Soft are for 350 and below while hard are for 350 and above. Although i wouldnt like say with any certainty that its the same for pistols. Link to post Share on other sites
RockDog Posted June 23, 2008 Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 Thanks for that info on the hopup mate. The only thing I needed to do with the PGC kit was to modify the leaf spring with a file and file the rear sight to get it to slip in easier. Just dont go to mad on the rear sight. Nick Link to post Share on other sites
chris u'5 Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 Did you not file down and smooth the sharp areas at either side of the chamber? What about the slide rails Nick? I couldn't even get the slide onto the frame on one of my kits. Link to post Share on other sites
RockDog Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 No Chris, I had to do that on my silver delta frame but my DX Mk4 frame seemed to be finished off alot better. Just needed oil on the rail and its cycles like a dream. After the delta job, I was expecting alot of work but was very happy with what I got. Nick Link to post Share on other sites
chris u'5 Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 Interesting. My two attempts have been with a PGC SFA kit. On the first occasion I didn't file the areas around the chamber and the outer barrel became badly damaged very quickly but the slide went on with no filing. Just a bit of lubrication. On my second attempt I filed the chamber areas first but couldn't get the slide on without filing. Its still not right though and needs some more work. Link to post Share on other sites
RockDog Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 yeah, on the delta my chamber area was fine but the slide rails needed filing. Not sure whether they have updated the mold with the DX kit, but its the easiest one I have done so far. Just a pits the rear sight is such a sruggle to fit. Got the Nash compensator from X-fire on its way, so should be an interesting little project. Nick Link to post Share on other sites
chris u'5 Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 How did you file the slide rails? I was using a suitable sized needle file and running it along the bottom of the rail. Im not sure if thats the best thing though. Link to post Share on other sites
RockDog Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 Exactly the same way mate, did the job for mine, I just wasnt keen on the finish of the silver look. Was a tad aprehensive to do it again but my luck was in I guess. I also forgot to say I had to remove a fraction off the top of the trigger, as it was catching when returning to its standard position. Link to post Share on other sites
chris u'5 Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 Yeah my trigger was a bit tight as well but a couple of strokes with the file was enough to sort that problem out. So is the outer barrel not becoming damaged on your latest kit then? The sharp edges on the chamber area made a right mess of my outer barrel. I don't want that to happen on my next kit as I've a PDI SFA outer barrel for it which cost $120! Link to post Share on other sites
RockDog Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 Im using a Tanoi Koba outer barrel on mine which is gloss black at the minute, until I can find a nineball silver one. I put 20 mags through it last night, no sign of wear or tear yet. Gonna do another 20 tonight, but cant see any where its touching to be honest. I havent fitted the PGC one as Im not too keen on the rough finish on it. All I can really think is because the top slide has different trades, so they obviously use a different mold, it be be more accurate?!?!?! The lower frame sounds the same where you also had to mod the trigger slightly too. I had to file off the top of mine, was yours the top too Chris? Link to post Share on other sites
chris u'5 Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 My outer barrel started to show quite severe wear after only a few magazines. It was scratched and chipped in some places. I actually filed bottom of the trigger area, there was a very small lip that I just smoothed out. Looking at the wear on the actual trigger it seemed it was rubbing against this lip. I did consider taking some from the top as well though but the bottom seemed enough in the end. Link to post Share on other sites
RockDog Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 If mine does start to show, I will post in here, but after 20 mags I think its ok to be honest. Nick Link to post Share on other sites
chris u'5 Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 Yeah I think you're fine Nick. That's good to know though mate. Link to post Share on other sites
chris u'5 Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Last night I swapped the PGC frame on my 1911 for another PGC frame but I now have trouble with the grip safety...its not working! Everything was fine prior to the swap but now I can pull the trigger and drop the hammer without gripping the safety. The prongs appear to be in the right place i.e. left leg towards me, middle prong on the sear and the right prong on the disconnector. Could anything else be causing this problem? I was up until 1am messing around with it but I can't seem to fix it. In the past this has happened but I just tweaked the prongs slightly and everything would work again. Can anyone help please? Link to post Share on other sites
eel one [COE] Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 After reading 22 pages for an answer I might have overlooked it and only found the question, so here it is again: Will a RS main spring housing fit the TM M1911A1? and Will a RS mag release fit the TM M1911A1? Link to post Share on other sites
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