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Tokyo Marui M1911-A1 Thread

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is any aftermarket slide for tm hi-capa 5.1 compatible with tm m1911? If i want to put hi-capa 5.1 slide for tm m1911 should I add other parts to make it compatible? and should I change the other parts such as outer barrel, recoil guide & spring etc?

 

If you have a TK Spacer you can use TM 5.1 slide on TM 1911. Your TM 1911 parts should work inside a Hi-Capa slide, although I think the recoil spring bushing on a 1911 is slightly longer than the Hi-Capa's. To be safe you should use a Hi-Capa bushing and a full length guide rod, if you want to use a Hi-Capa Guiderod you need to cut off the little knubby at the base of the 1911 hop-up chamber, or you can get specific TM 1911 full length guide(PDI, Nine Ball, or others makes it), they just have a hole at the base of the guide rod for the knubby. You will also need the Bomar style front and rear sight that comes with TM 5.1 for that slide, unless its a Shooters Design Kimber slide which comes with its own sight....

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Yes, I used my spare 1911 BBU in my 4.3 not too long ago. They are identical.

So all i would need is the 4.3 slide,barrel,bushing,recoil guide,innerbarrel,sights, how about the screw that holds the rear sight in place???

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If you have a TK Spacer you can use TM 5.1 slide on TM 1911. Your TM 1911 parts should work inside a Hi-Capa slide, although I think the recoil spring bushing on a 1911 is slightly longer than the Hi-Capa's. To be safe you should use a Hi-Capa bushing and a full length guide rod, if you want to use a Hi-Capa Guiderod you need to cut off the little knubby at the base of the 1911 hop-up chamber, or you can get specific TM 1911 full length guide(PDI, Nine Ball, or others makes it), they just have a hole at the base of the guide rod for the knubby. You will also need the Bomar style front and rear sight that comes with TM 5.1 for that slide, unless its a Shooters Design Kimber slide which comes with its own sight....

 

tks for the info bro, so i'll buy the tk spacer.

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i having trouble filling the TM MEU gas mag, when i filling the gas to the mag, the gas spilling out from the valve (but the mag is normal , no leaks), is it normal ? or i just miss something ? unlike my KJW P226 mag, when i fill the mag there is no gas spill out from the valve.

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It is probably fine. Some guns (like the HFC and KJW M9's) have "silent" fill valves which don't vent gas when you fill them.

 

Most TM and KSC guns let air and gas out as you fill them. The advantage to this is that you know when the mag is full (when liquid gas starts venting) and in theory it helps to get a full liquid fill (since all extra air and gas can be purged). I haven't seen actual proof for the second though.

 

At any rate it probably isn't a problem, just a different design.

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there are ways to prevent the gas "wasting" when filling the mag:

 

1. use a butane canister adapter. usually comes with different sized fill vents.

 

gasFill2_PNG.png

 

2. use a small o-ring in the fill valve. can be fashioned from large rubber bands or recycled from the fill valve of disposable lighters.

 

3. use a shrink tube on the canister fill valve. this is a redwolf-recommended method. redwolf article here.

 

gas-rev-parts4-l.jpg

 

hope that helps.

 

p.s.: i normally hear a hiss when filling TM mags. and i take this as an indication of liquid gas going into the mag. when the mag is full, a little gas vents out of the fill valve of the mag. the hiss is not so evident in my KSC and Marushin mags.

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Thanks for posting the shrink tube idea. Good tips!

 

In regards to the "will RS housings fit TM" questions, they require extensive mods. Not shown by SJF was the other side of the TM housing which requires additional grooves to be cut. I modified a WE Tactical housing which is basically shaped like the RS. Some time with the dremel, file, and sandpaper...

 

gallery_7858_1375_113995.jpg

 

On a side note, would anybody recommend the KA 150% recoil spring for use in conjuction with a metal kit? I'm used to Guarder springs but the KA set is slightly cheaper.

 

Also, I'm looking to possibly add a full length guide rod to my new project. The options I am considering are either the 2-piece PDI rod which allows use of the stock rod buffer (which I had in the series 70, decent if not slightly more expensive) or the 1-piece Carom rod which does not allow for the stock rod buffer due to the buffer preventing rod installation (not a problem with the PDI since it is in 2 pieces). The buffer absorbs the impact between the rod and its plug during blowback which I assume to be a good thing. But is it necessary? I like the Carom because it's cheaper and not prone to separating (although teflon tape takes care of that). I like the PDI for the buffer and easier disassembly. Is one better or recommended over the other?

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A quick question, I have a Bell 1911 (tm clone), and I find that it is to thin for Blackhawk holsters? Is the TM 1911 thinner than say WA? Any holsters that fit better than others?

 

Oh, and any tips on how to modify the holster for a better fit?

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A quick question, I have a Bell 1911 (tm clone), and I find that it is to thin for Blackhawk holsters? Is the TM 1911 thinner than say WA? Any holsters that fit better than others?

 

Oh, and any tips on how to modify the holster for a better fit?

 

Don't know the Bell all that well to be honest but my TM guns and WA guns all fit perfectly in the drop leg Blackhawk holsters and the CQC variants without any trouble, there is an adjustment screw close to where the trigger guard comes to rest so if its a little loose I would suggest you experiment with adjusting this screw.

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I just received my PDI Nash comp from Redwolf and was greeted by this:

 

post-54546-1221755097_thumb.jpg

 

http://img241.imagevenue.com/img.php?image...2_122_122lo.jpg

http://img199.imagevenue.com/img.php?image...y_122_343lo.jpg

 

Any suggestions on what I could do to cover it up? Like metallic paints? Any particular techniques or just slabbing it on? Should I return it (I dont think I'd want to go through all the hassle)?

 

edit: replaced dead hotlinks

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Bummer!

The best thing I have found is to use some kind of model paint (Airfix or Tamiya) then use a pin or something similarly thin to apply the paint very carefully in very small amounts. I have also found that when the paint is still tacky dab it gently with a small piece of sponge and this will remove any shine from the paint. It takes practice but if you get the right shade of black it can look pretty good. Obvioulsy it will wipe off though (which is good if you get it wrong)

Personally I would send it back.

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are you referring to the scratch or the hole actually being smaller than .45? The scratches is probably a by product of shipping or packing incident...which there is probably everychance if you get another it might still be like that....

 

 

On a different topic, I tried my 1911 with Nova kit in a Fobus paddle holster and the fit is way too tight even with the adjustment screw completely loosen. The same holster fits the stock one ok. I am guessing the dustcover is a bit beefier than the stock plastic kit.....Any suggestion as to what kind of molded holster works well with Nova kit, or should I just go with a universal none-molded type?

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chris u'5: yeah that might be something. I just think if I decide not to return it, i'd want it to be permanent. But as you say, if it's not done right there is no turning back.

 

RacingManiac: i'm referring to the scratches. Thats not bits of fuzz on the line of the edge, they are dents or nicks in the metal. Yeah possibly, I just think it happened at PDI in any case, and not in the shipping process seeing it was so well packed. Foam all around the cylindershaped product container of hardplastic, with the comp and other bits in separate plastic pockets.

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Ebay. You can also try googling colt wraparound.

 

But be warned they can be very difficult to get from across the pond, a retailer I know very well has been waiting on an order for something like 9 months +, might be worth looking at what unco and other HK have available though.

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I just received my PDI Nash comp from Redwolf and was greeted by this:

 

post-54546-1221755097_thumb.jpg

 

http://img241.imagevenue.com/img.php?image...2_122_122lo.jpg

http://img199.imagevenue.com/img.php?image...y_122_343lo.jpg

 

Any suggestions on what I could do to cover it up? Like metallic paints? Any particular techniques or just slabbing it on? Should I return it (I dont think I'd want to go through all the hassle)?

 

edit: replaced dead hotlinks

 

I would suggest talking to x-fire about it. They have good customer service. I know several people who received the wrong parts in their order and talked to x-fire. In each case they were allowed to keep the wrong part and x-fire shipped them the right part free of charge.

 

I know that this isn't quite the same deal but it seems like talking to them would be worth a try.

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do someone know if these koba controls (http://www.taniokoba.co.jp/customparts4.html) will fit on a standard frame or pgc frame just straight?

 

I know that the slide safety will fit 1911A1 kits from Guarder, Pro Win and Nova, I would suggest that they will fit the PGC without trouble, the backstrap will fit just about any kit as will the hammer but the beaver tail will only fit the 1911A1 patterned frames, it wont fit the MEU frame for example or the metal kits for them when the finally arrive.

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...but the beaver tail will only fit the 1911A1 patterned frames, it wont fit the MEU frame for example or the metal kits for them when the finally arrive.

 

I'm going to have to disagree. Judging by the gap which fits the tang, the TK beavertail looks like the one meant for rounded modern tangs rather than pointy A1 tangs. However, the TK beavertail does look like it will require either the removal of the bar connecting the frame near the thumb safety pin hole or for a groove to be cut in the beavertail to account for the bar (which is what I did when I modded a RS one so I could make it a drop in fit for any A1, although more extensive mods are required).

 

Now the question is, should I be picky and swap the MEU controls for the TK's Kimber set to go with my Warrior? :unsure: If anyone is interested in Springfield controls, let me know. :D

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If you want to use the TK, Nova, or MEU beavertail on an A1 frame, you have to round down the frame tang. The other option is to modify a RS/WA beavertail for pointy tangs which requires (in addition to what I mentioned above) the removal of the single arm on the RS/WA and transplant the double TM arms of a stock TM grip safety onto it with adhesive (lots and lots of epoxy and filing). Then you'll have to file down the hammer strut channel on the RS/WA beavertail.

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so there's no drop-in grip safety? what is the "frame tang"? anyone have a pics of the labor that must be done?

ps:davedawg123 please don't forget about those controls!

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PM replied. Compare those two pics I sent. You see where the beavertail would go? Notice how the A1 kit's area is pointy and the modern kit is rounded? That's the tang. There is no TM compatible drop-in beavertail grip safety for A1 frames.

 

I would rank the level of difficulty for modifying the beavertail for A1 frames as follows:

 

1. Nova and MEU - easiest, just round the tang. Experience required: how to file/use sandpaper.

 

2. TK - in addition to #1, dremel a groove to make it drop-in fit for any A1 kit or grind away the bar connecting the two sides of the frame to make it a custom-only fit. Experience required in addition to #1: how to use a dremel or cutting tool (or spend endless hours using a file).

 

3. RS/WA - the most difficult and time consuming, drop-in beavertail for A1 frame to start with doesn't require #1 but drop-in beavertail for modern frame does require #1, both require #2, both require the TM arms transplant and hammer strut channel filing described in my previous post, both require enlarging the grip safety pin hole a little. Experience required in addition to #2: how to use epoxy (and don't screw up cutting and adhesifying those arms or you may end up needing another donor TM grip safety).

 

 

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