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Army Armament R85 (L85A1)


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I wouldn't worry,i was one of the first ones to get one of these guns & it seems like mine is one of the newer gun.Maybe the factory was getting rid of the ones that didn't meet standard along with the good ones so they could fill orders?

I received mine at the back end of last week and it appears to be the old type, cocking handle attached to blowback plate with some adhesive? I haven't had any problems though so can't grumble and i'm sure if I did Keith could source me a new replacement :P

 

On a side note for some reason semi is fine with blowback engaged but when the cocking handle is held to the rear it takes two trigger pulls to fire. First pull brings back the piston second pull fires off two shots! odd?

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I received mine today and its one of the old types :P

the cocking handle is already starting to come off with a small bit of rust under it I'm most disappointed.

how can If ix this can I just put some super glue under near the cocking handle and hope for the best? (I really don't want to take the gun apart)

Thanks for any help you can offer. I was hoping for one of the new cocking handles :(

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picture018rz5.jpg

picture020cl9.jpg

Well I pulled the cocking handle back to see the hop up and it came off :P Can I still fix this with super glue? I think I'm going to need a replacement.. I'll e-mail rsov..

Sorry for bad qlty images my camera had no battery's so i used my web cam..

*updates pic slightly

 

I just fired it for the first time (the battery had no charge) and the plate the cocking handle used to be on doesn't really work properly it went back a forth the first few times then it just went back and not forth. Is this due to the cocking handle not being there (the weight of it helping the blow back?)

 

Thanks again.

Edited by Subb0
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Ask Keith to send you the part that was on the picture I made. He told me that he wrote the factory about this problem and they are sending him replacement parts.

The dissasembly of the gun (not the mechabox) is fairly easy. You will be working only with the upper part of the gun, you split the gun into two parts after removing the pin on the back, that is also shown in the manual. To remove the plate with the broking handle you will need to get to the three screws that hold the whole system, unfortunately they are right under the outer barrel - so you first have to remove the outer barrel. That's two screws in the front, one screw near the hop up and then you pull out the outer barrel (don't forget to pull out the innter barrel with hopup before). After that, you can access the screws to remove the whole plate, take it out and replace the the bolt plate. It's really easy, no instructions needed - just look at the parts and see what you need to remove first. There isn't anything you can break, just don't loose the parts.

 

As for the weird working blowback - my advice would be to get rid of the blowback, it has no practical use. There is no big difference when you use the blowback (I compared two guns). When you will be replacing the cocking handle, look at the lower part of the gun - you can see a part of the mechabox, there is a sliding block of metal with a small spring and a hook. This is the blowback, you can take it out. There is a small screw in the rear part of the mechabox (near the rifle butt), take the screw out so you can slide the blowback back out of the mechabox. Your gun will have a bigger rate of fire, because the blowback slows down the piston. It will fire more consistenly and you can keep the bolt plate closed, no dirt will get in.

You won't miss the blowback really (it's not a very good blowback either).

 

These procedures are also described in the guide I found here (along with good pictures).

 

BTW. I think you have the same problem as I, I can't find the reason but the movement of the whole blowback plate is too stiff, that's why it doesn't even come back into the starting pisition but it stays in the half way. It looks like the plate is too thick and too close to the cylinder on the mechabox and there is friction between these two parts. I don't know if this can be solved by replacing the whole bolt plate for a new one. I have not yet put the new part into my gun - I'll let you know later.

Edited by Killian
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Brilliant thanks for all the responses I'm glad that its getting all sorted. i got an e-mail back from rsov asking for my address so hopefully i might get the part before Sunday when I have my skirmish if not I'll have to glue it for a temp solution.

 

I might put a little oil in when i do strip it see if that makes the plate a little easier to move or hopefully the new plate will fix this.

Thanks for the guide I'll use it when i get the part (or on saterday when i will prep my gear)

I've yet to really fire it (Aside from a quick fire when i charged the battery for 30 min but so far it fires and the mags seems to fit (after a few attempts)

so seems to be working I'll just have to wait to fix this miner issue.

 

I kind of want to keep the blow back it just seems to add that some thing more. (I will no doubt remove it once I get bored of it..

 

 

 

Thanks a hell of a lot guys.

 

I've just noticed (look at your problem killian that my plate does not come forward and cover the hop up system it just gets stuck on the hopup screw the plate seems to sit slight lower and catch.. once again new plate should fix this i really hope! if not I'm sure i can sort it with a little tweaking when i open the gun up..

Edited by Subb0
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So you could get a TM PSG-1 Piston for this? PSG-1 is the only other gun with an 18 tooth piston, correct?

The G&P SR25 also uses an 18 tooth piston.

 

*EDIT*

Erm...

 

If anybody in the UK wants to donate their broken cocking handle to me I'd appreciate it.

The one one my G&G gun fell off somewhere and went AWOL. I'm sure I could figure out a way to attach the Army one to replace it. :D

Edited by Stealthbomber
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My plate is bend how the hell it is i dont know but i took my gun apart to look inside (so i could see how to put the handle on (using the guide) and it turns out the end of the plate is bend inward and catches on the hop up screw.. now im trying to put it back together (the gun) kinda hard!

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My plate is bend how the hell it is i dont know but i took my gun apart to look inside (so i could see how to put the handle on (using the guide) and it turns out the end of the plate is bend inward and catches on the hop up screw.. now im trying to put it back together (the gun) kinda hard!

 

Don't worry, just stay cool, don't use too much force :) . It's sometimes tricky to put the two parts together so they will slide into place - it has to go easy, if it doesn't then try to put the together again. Don't forget to place the wires to the front and use the small metal ring near the magazine chamber to hold the wires in place.

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Well I managed to put them together I bundles the cables in the bottom half where there was a large empty space was not aware there was some thing to hold them. I got it all back together ok aside from the pin you have to pull out it doesn't quite come through the other side but I'll worry about it when I open it up again to replace the plate etc. (I really hope it gets here before Sunday!) Really hard tog et back together..

just hope mags sit in there!

Thanks

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Yes, sometimes it's quite hard to insert the rear pin - the two bodies have to be alinged correctly, the best is to press the two parts of the body with two hands and knock the half-way inserted pin against something hard :).

 

About the wire "pins":

pinsuh5.jpg

The Army model has only one pin I think. This picture is taken from the G&G guide on Arnies.

 

Anyone knows if a version 7 cylinder head from a M14 fits?

pmptchv7cz8.jpg

It looks nearly the same as on the Army R85... Would be great if someone could try if it fits? It's easy to replace the cylinder head...

Edited by Killian
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Bit of a warning...

 

On the G&G L85 I found that the edges of the upper and lower receiver were slightly sharp when the gun was new and this sometimes made it difficult to get the receiver back together.

 

I found that if it was difficult to put the 2 halves together it was ALWAYS because it wasn't going together right.

Usually you'd end up with one of the edges of the upper receiver sitting on top of the lug in the lower instead of behind it.

 

At the time quite a few people reported the same problems.

You just mess around with it and it'll suddenly slide into place easily.

As the gun gets more wear (from taking it to bits so often <_<) it gets easier.

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If anybody in the UK wants to donate their broken cocking handle to me I'd appreciate it.

The one one my G&G gun fell off somewhere and went AWOL. I'm sure I could figure out a way to attach the Army one to replace it. :D

If I can manage to get a replacement new type then I have no problem with donating mine.

 

well used my gun today and it stoped firering, took it apart and its striped the teeth off the piston, yay!

It's funny how some people put several thousand rounds through an R85 without a hitch yet some people have one break so quickly. Although I guess it's a case of when it happens not if.

As someone has suggested it would be an ideal time to fit a regular piston with the spacer, note it isn't completely necessary to fit a standard marui sector gear it just depends of you want to retain the pre-cocking mechanism.

Edited by tiff_lee
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Putting several thousand rounds through the ARMY R85 at a standard fps is very different to firing say 10 shots through one with a one joule spring an a 9.6v battery. Unless people follow the upgrade guide they can expect to start stripping pistons and gears.

 

Simply dropping in a one joule spring, with an 8.4v battery or a 9.6 will probably knacker the gun, based on some of the posts here.

 

That is to say, if i had one i wouldn't bother firing it untill i'd followed the safe one joule downgrade guide done by stealthbomber.

 

As for the cocking handles - couldn't you tap a hole in the cocking handle and fit a screw into it throught the plate?

 

EDIT: If you don't want to downgrade, why not leave the spring tensioned, with a chrono on hand? keep checking every few days untill its near 328.

Edited by Lance Jackass
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If I can manage to get a replacement new type then I have no problem with donating mine.

Great stuff. Cheers. :D

It's funny how some people put several thousand rounds through an R85 without a hitch yet some people have one break so quickly.  Although I guess it's a case of when it happens not if.

Depends.

If you mostly fire in semi then there's a much smaller chance of causing damage.

 

Long bursts are most likely to cause damage but firing short bursts can be just as bad if you stop and start firing quickly.

As someone has suggested it would be an ideal time to fit a regular piston with the spacer, note it isn't completely necessary to fit a standard marui sector gear it just depends of you want to retain the pre-cocking mechanism.

Don't forget that even if you plan on leaving the gun with the pre-cocked firing working, you still need to remove 3 of the teeth from the sector gear.

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Putting several thousand rounds through the ARMY R85 at a standard fps is very different to firing say 10 shots through one with a one joule spring an a 9.6v battery. Unless people follow the upgrade guide they can expect to start stripping pistons and gears.

 

That is to say, if i had one i wouldn't bother firing it untill i'd followed the safe one joule downgrade guide done by stealthbomber.

 

As for the cocking handles - couldn't you tap a hole in the cocking handle and fit a screw into it throught the plate?

I totally agree but my statement was based on the assumption people were using the freebie 8.4V battery and besides don't they already fire at 1 joule? I know mine does.

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As for the cocking handles - couldn't you tap a hole in the cocking handle and fit a screw into it throught the plate?

Nah.

The edge of the cylinder is right behind the fake bolt and the fake bolt is only about 1mm thick.

There's no room to put a nut behind it and the metal's not thick enough to tap.

The only way to do it, really, is to countersink the back side of the fake bolt and rivet the cocking handle into it.

 

That's why Army seem to have now stamped a raised area into the fake bolt; so they can rivet the cocking handle on to the underneath.

 

EDIT: If you don't want to downgrade, why not leave the spring tensioned, with a chrono on hand? keep checking every few days untill its near 328.

If you've done enough damage to a spring that it loses 50-odd FPS, the chances are it's going to carry on losing power every time you use it.

 

Springs have things called an "elastic limit" and, according to my physics teacher, you can compress and expand a spring as much as you like within the elastic limit but once you go past that limit the spring is softened forever.

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I got an e-mail from rsov this morning (an hour after i first e-mailed them (i was impressed)) any how i've yet to received any e-mail back they said they wanted to ship me the parts and asked for my address is this normal (i,e, have they shipped the parts and just not told me?)

Thanks

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