Star M60 Initial Impressions

[mateba]

Yep! I saw that this morning. I don't really like the plate that slides over the top as in the original but if a V3 can do it, ie Ino M60, then it might just be a convenience. Looks like the M60 take a V6 cylinder head too. Gaurder makes bore-up kits for them and the air nozzle problem maybe just that, a bad air nozzle. I am not really interested in buying all those extra parts though. Hey, maybe ARES will stray a bit more from STAR and pre-install these kits in theirs. Sorry, rambled some.

[mateba]

I did some spring swapping and I think I figured out the spring guide and why the stock spring is so long. SP1 is a loose setting except with the stock spring which is longer than normal. SP2 is of normal length and generates closer to normal velocity. I would like to point out that I am at the least loosing 20FPS but to be honest I think its more towards to area of 30-40FPS. My compression is great inside my MB. With a SP130 the M60 shoots 350FPS in SP1 and 405-410FPS. I'm happy with these velocities assuming that I do have a compression leak. I'm not happy I have a leak but at least I'm in the right track for the ~400/450FPS 25/20rps setup. Now all I need is more power and greater ROF. I think I'll try a magnum motor and 11.1v 4800mah Lipo or two in series, but first I want to have one of the metal MBs laying around. I'm really excited about the ARES MB. At first, I didn't take such a good look once I saw all the extra stuff I'm not in the market for that comes with it and original design to securing the top of the MB. Then I noticed 8mm bearings and stainless writen on all but a few internals. I think I would rather have the ARES now even if it costs $200. Either way, heres my planned MB setup.

 

Metal MB (ARES or Wild Monkey)

Kanzen 8mm bearings or Prometheus 6mm bushings

Metal V6 air nozzle w/ o-ring

Systema Magnum motor (heat sink motor to MB w/ aluminum and thermal paste)

PDI 190% spring

M60 bearing spring guide

SC CNC Torque gears or Prometheus

JBU steel teeth (modded) or Prometheus hard piston

ARS sorbothane V.6 cylinder heads

ARS sorbothane piston head

#14 o-ring w/ silicone and cylinder grease

Cheetah Mosfet

12ga wire

Elite 11.1v 4800mah lipo (pending space, maybe another in series= 11.1v 9600)

 

This one will be most expensive airsoft gun I've every owned by the time its finished internally and externally. I might need to get larger ALICE pack to carry BBs though

[bruin757]

I did some spring swapping and I think I figured out the spring guide and why the stock spring is so long. SP1 is a loose setting except with the stock spring which is longer than normal. SP2 is of normal length and generates closer to normal velocity. I would like to point out that I am at the least loosing 20FPS but to be honest I think its more towards to area of 30-40FPS. My compression is great inside my MB. With a SP130 the M60 shoots 350FPS in SP1 and 405-410FPS. I'm happy with these velocities assuming that I do have a compression leak. I'm not happy I have a leak but at least I'm in the right track for the ~400/450FPS 25/20rps setup. Now all I need is more power and greater ROF. I think I'll try a magnum motor and 11.1v 4800mah Lipo or two in series, but first I want to have one of the metal MBs laying around. I'm really excited about the ARES MB. At first, I didn't take such a good look once I saw all the extra stuff I'm not in the market for that comes with it and original design to securing the top of the MB. Then I noticed 8mm bearings and stainless writen on all but a few internals. I think I would rather have the ARES now even if it costs $200. Either way, heres my planned MB setup.

 

Metal MB (ARES or Wild Monkey)

Kanzen 8mm bearings or Prometheus 6mm bushings

Metal V6 air nozzle w/ o-ring

Systema Magnum motor (heat sink motor to MB w/ aluminum and thermal paste)

PDI 190% spring

M60 bearing spring guide

SC CNC Torque gears or Prometheus

JBU steel teeth (modded) or Prometheus hard piston

ARS sorbothane V.6 cylinder heads

ARS sorbothane piston head

#14 o-ring w/ silicone and cylinder grease

Cheetah Mosfet

12ga wire

Elite 11.1v 4800mah lipo (pending space, maybe another in series= 11.1v 9600)

 

This one will be most expensive airsoft gun I've every owned by the time its finished internally and externally. I might need to get larger ALICE pack to carry BBs though

 

All of this assumes, of course, that your boxmag is feeding properly. I'd hate for you to pour all that money into the gun just to have the whole thing undermined by a crappy boxmag.

 

[mateba]

Yeah, but could always try a new motor. Or replace the internals of the entire mag. So far it works great expect that I think I need to shim the tube as you did. I have had jams there as well.

[bruin757]

Yeah, but could always try a new motor. Or replace the internals of the entire mag. So far it works great expect that I think I need to shim the tube as you did. I have had jams there as well.

 

If you do put in a new motor, try this one. Tamiya JR RC Sprint Dash Motor, item number is 15318-350. It's an exact drop-in fit for the stock motor, and it's a high torque. That's what I have in mine, and it works well. Only $5 plus shipping.

[mateba]

Thanks for the suggestion. I was wondering how you came across a direct drop-in.

[Fighting Maus]

I came across them and posted about it back on page 11 of this thread. I see my photos have dissapeared, but bruin757 is correct. Thats the motor I used. I also rewired the box to use a 9v, instead of the 2 or 3 AA batteries. The motor can take it.

 

Regarding the new ARES metal gearboxes; once I find a source Ill probably pick one up and keep it as a backup to the polycarbonate one that came with the gun. This isnt a gun I use at every skirm anyway, and it works just fine in its current state. I'm not going to mess with it until it breaks.

[mateba]

Thanks

 

Well I stripped a systema bever gear WAY TOO SOON, nearly OTB. Is there a special way to shim these? I shimmed it the normal way as if you would shim a V2. Spur, bevel, sector ect... but I had a little trouble adjusting the motor height but nothing too dramatic. Any guesses?

 

BTW, STAR M60 gears are high speed ratio gears. My ROF dropped by ~6rps.

[mateba]

Have you seen daytonaguns' STAR MK43 GBB?

[PlasticMag]

Couple of questions:

1. Has anyone tried the new boxmag version? Is it any better?

2. What's the threading on the attachment for the box mag?

 

Thanks!

[muckymick]

After wiring my boxmag to the back of the gearbox motor mine worked great for a wile as soon as you pulled the trigger the gearbox would feed until the boxmag motor burnt out not suprizing as i run this on 9.6v battery's.

I managed to get another motor from maplin's for a few pound's and while i was looking in their cataloge i came across a varable voltage speed contoller which i could wire to the back of the gearbox and then adjust the output power to the required amount to run the boxmag.

I fitted the voltage regulator on the trap door of the box mag wiring the motor directly to the output side of it and fitting deans connector's to the input side so i could connect it to the wiring coming from the m60 gearbox ,i then used a test meter to test the output voltage to the motor and dialed in 3.6v and now every time i pull the trigger the m60 fire's every time with no misfeeding i will take some pics later and here is a link to the voltage regulator i used

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=30310

[PlasticMag]

Could someone who owns a STAR M60 measure the length of the feed cover from one end to another? Don't need to include the hinge itself, just the actual metal bent cover. Metric or Imperial, doesn't matter.

 

Thanks!

[steel tiger]

has any one used the new gearboxed ares m60 or used the new box mag?

[P.S.I.]

I'm trying to get an ARES metal gearbox for my STAR M60 but I'm not having much luck so far.

I emailed Ares and they told me to inquire with a dealer, which I did and was told to "check back with us in a week or two". Which I also did, still nothing.

[ARES USA]

I'm trying to get an ARES metal gearbox for my STAR M60 but I'm not having much luck so far.

I emailed Ares and they told me to inquire with a dealer, which I did and was told to "check back with us in a week or two". Which I also did, still nothing.

 

 

P.S.I

 

Check your PM as I have a gearbox here for you?

[Tank]

Update:

I got my hands on an ARES metal mechbox. My previous air leaking problem has been solved, at least partially. I have to do some more testing, but the complete drop-in mechbox yields 40 fps more than the original STAR mechbox using the exact same spring.

 

The airseal nozzle is longer than that of the original STAR mechbox. I haven't opened the mechbox yet but when I do I will measure the new nozzle and see if it is a standard size. I'll report on other components as well.

 

 

[muckymick]

any word on the ares metal gearbox ,i've been looking round all the usual retailer but still can't find any.

Really need to find one as i've totaly destoyed the poly gearbox for the 3 time.

Ares usa can you supply uk customer's

[Texchap]

We've had the new "all metal" Star/Ares Mk43 for over a week. By the way, thanks for the advice on the voltage regulator. This will be my next purchase. The shimming out of the factory was awful. After 500 rounds it grooved out the back wide tooth of the piston. There is another guy I know who got the M60, his lasted around 1500 rounds then it did the same thing, I was there when it happened. He stated that it happened to another guy he knew also. 3 for 3 same issue. The gearbox is wider than an average AEG hence more shims are required. We reshimmed it (it took a lot of shimms), cut the last small tooth off of the piston (the one in front of the wide back tooth). It now works great. You will also need to use locktight on the motor depth adjustment screw, it will back out. Range is outstanding, performance, after the fix, fantastic.

[Texchap]

To prevent the motor overheating I took the advice of muckymick and installed a voltage reducer. The one I installed comes from an RC shop and reduces the output to 5volts. Here is the link: http://www.radicalrc.com/shop/?shop=1&cat=86. The box mag still feeds flawlessly and the motor overheat issue has been dealt with.

[PlasticMag]

The boxmag motor burned out - am I correct in assuming that any Tamiya 'Dash' family motor fits in just fine?

[Tank]

Bit of a necro-post but I thought I should share.

Last weekend I decided to take the '60 out to try out the ARES gearbox I got back in March.

It didn't go well. After about 2000 rounds (max) the piston is dead. I have yet to crack open the gearbox to see exactly what happened but the the piston is definitely done for.

 

SO, I highly recommend anyone who get an ARES gearbox to IMMEDIATELY replace the piston as the factory one seems to have the strength of a biscuit.

[JeepCJ8]

First thank to all that has contributed to this thread and it is good to see some familiar faces form some other boards. I have been unable to visit this site in a long time due to my ISP blocking it automatically, Its 10 pages or so longer now. What is below is my experience with this replica as posted on some other boards, references given to those that influenced it. I got my M60 in around the first of the year, this long post is the culmination of several post on another board. By re posting this information it is my hope to help out the next person as much as the earlier post in this thread helped me and some others as well.

 

while ago it was pointed out in this thread that STAR replicas are selling for crazy reduced prices partially due to ARES which was a sub contractor for STAR making replicas under their own brand. This has not gone un-protested by STAR however. I worked a couple of hazmat spill and made enough money to take advantage of the situation and order one form E Hobby Asia. Since then, I have been burning up some PM folders and searching this forums and others for information. I am not liking what I am reading. Since I have no field time with this replica I really can not do a proper review. What I am going to propose to do is compile my experiences and as much information as I can gather into this thread. However, with STAR replicas selling at rock bottom prices and ARES making the same replicas and promising upgrades components I do not think I am alone in taking the risk in purchasing a STAR replica making this thread pertinent.

 

My research is pointing out that this is one heck of a project gun I am expecting a lot of trouble with the box magazine and mech box internal issues. These are common with STAR made replicas apparently and would be exasperated by being a support gun replica. I ask any one that has a STAR replica shoot me a PM especially if you solved the air seal issues. I have been warned to expect mech box shimming to be abysmal and to check this and make sure things are clean and greased. I have never been into a mech box proper so again I am expecting to need some guidance here as well. I would also like to publicly thank Noobtard, for the link to a very informative thread at Arnies Airsoft forum, ( this one )so far this has been my main source of information on this replica. Multiple posters in the preceding link have the same problems, I do not expect to be any different.

 

The first issue is, The box magazine SUCKS. I have tested mine by just running BBs through it into the bag, NOT connected to the gun. It does not constantly feed BBs though the feed tube with out rattling and shaking Apparently this is not usual as I have found no one that has this replica that has a box mag the feeds reliable and quickly enough to keep the replica when fired with a 9.6volt battery or on spring position 1 (more on that in a bit) There are two repairs for this.

 

The first is to use this motor a Tamiya Jr sprint Dash motor #15318. It is apparently a drop in replacement for the ammo drive motor. It is heavier duty, hi torque, and works at a higher voltage. The original motor is powered off 3 AA batteries held in the bottom of the box magazine, There is plenty or room for more batteries but adding a fourth battery or a 9volt battery usually not only smokes the stock motor but over heats and destroys the wiring as well. Currently I am leaning towards this solution after testing the stock magazine.

 

 

 

 

The other Repair is to gut the box magazine of all STAR components and hack a MAG M249 cloth magazine mechanism into the bottom as a replacement. This has advantages in that it is spring assisted feed mechanism, which the STAR strangely is NOT. It is a proven magazine that feeds well. But requires that I spend $120 to cut up a magazine to make the change.

 

The next issue with this replica is the one that has me the most concerned. It will develop air seal leaks between the air seal and hop up chamber, My forum searching points out that this is not unusual with STAR mechanisms. What I have not found is a answer to solve it. I have PMed some members here but have not found any solutions yet. This is a support weapon so I expect that I will also develop this problem as well. Since the STAR M60 uses its own special mechbox design there are no drop in replacement mech boxes available. Although ARES is supposed working on a metal ball bearing mechbox, this has not been released yet.

 

Enough about expected problems, On wards to the replica! First, My experience with E hobby Asia was pretty good. I bought on line and four days latter, Christmas eve! it was delivered by some guy in a car (I am not kidding,) I have no idea how the heck it got here that fast, teleportation? maybe ballistic missile? It was not possible to track the shipment in transit. It came shipped in a olive paper shrouded HEAVY duty double walled cardboard box with a ethafoam cut out inside. This foam is so well done that I need to find a gun case and use the shipping foam to store the gun. Packaging was A++.

 

The M60E4/ Mk43 is the same replica, The difference between the two is in the flash hider and the the style of fore grip or rail system included. Upon picking it up, I expected it to be a lot heavier than it was. I think its lighter than a CA M249 that I have handled in the past. However, it is a support gun it is not a M4 so smaller players may find it is a bit unwieldy. I ordered a M60 style padded sling, I suggest any purchaser does as well.

 

The replica it self is made of ballistic nylon, and aluminum mostly, There are some plastic components but these are the exception. It is finished in a broad spectrum of greys and blacks with appropriate metallic components. There are trade marks that while not perfect for the real steel guns are close enough. Both the Mk43/ and the M60E4 are Short or cut down versions of the standard M60 Machine gun. The bipod is fitted to the gas tube and folds down securely in either position. The bipod legs also extend for length. The sights are functional, fold and adjustable. The carry handle, other owners have complained about but mine seems to be fairly secure at this time. I am pretty sure that the "carry handle" is actually meant to expedite changing out a hot worn out barrel on the real steel M60, as such I don't think it is supposed to bear the weight of the gun anyway.

 

Along with the box magazine and flash hider a small section of plastic toy like false 7.62 ammo belt is included. It is placed across the feed tray which opens the same way a real on does and placed on top of the lid of the box magazine. I have a dummy belt of the real thing but it is so well hidden it is all but unnoticeable. On thing that was not in the box. Instructions. these are available from STARS web site as a PDF but I am going to post them soon for reference as well. http://www.starairsoft.com/

 

The battery case is located under the feed tray it is cavernous, It easily swallows the 9.6 4800 mah batteries. In fact in could almost carry your spare sub-c battery pack. Also under the feed tray cover is the gear box. Yes, it is clear poly carbonant, it is not the same as STARS problematic M249 gearbox so the after market gear boxes made for their SAW will not fit, however, someone at arnies says it is possible to hack on in if you have to, I find that reassuring. The gearbox does use metal and in some cases ball bearing bushings, I do not know what size as I am resistant to dive into it until I fire it and chrono it. One of the odd things about this gear box is it has a two position spring setting. position 1 has less fps but a higher rate of fire. position 2 shortens the springs stroke for a higher fps at expense of cyclic rate. Spring position 2 is equivalent in length to a normal AEG, The spring inside is longer than normal. I will not know how this performs until I get the replica out to the field. Several other users at arnie report that inside a XYZ hi speed gears. I will no more and confirm this information later when I get up the gumption to open the gearbox and check the shimming. Again I want to see if it works and get some field time before I go slay internal dragons. The hop up is adjusted with a allen wrench just forward of the rear sight. I can not comment on how it performs at this time.

 

The replica came shipped with a abused orange M16 style cheap plastic bird cage suppressor attached. That was glues on with non-removable lock tight. No matter how big a wrench I used it would not surrender its grip on the muzzle. I finally used a mixture of brute strength, subtly, and delicate use of dremel tool, exacto saw, number 11 exacto knifes and channel locks. This pretty much destroyed the orange flash hider, such as life. In its place a aluminum bird mouth flash hider which was included was spun on. This is made of aluminum and looks fantastic.

 

In all Externally, This is a fantastic replica, it is metal, looks mean, I have no complaints about its appearance or function. Internally, I am concerned, time will tell. The box mag is definitely where STAR dropped the ball, that will need some attention probably before I even chrono it.

 

Photos will be posed as soon as my camera charges _______________________________________

 

I finally have a charge on my Camera, enjoy the pictures.

 

 

I got some field time in today, chroned a solid 335 340,342 fps in spring position 1. Rate of fire was good, box mag fed but needed shaken a lot. I am defiantly going to re motor it. For those that missed it this AEG has two positions for the gear box spring, position 1 is longer and more relaxed increasing rate of fire at the expense of velocity.

________________________________________________________________________________

________

 

I am still worried about the gear box, From what I have read on other airsoft forums that this replica develops air seal and nozzle issues over time, 80% of the replicas reviewed also have piston/ shimming issues. I MAY have gotten one that has decent quality control, I really will not know until I run a lot more BBs thru it. One of the other problems I was told to expect is if I were to upgrade it to very high velocity or rate of fire the constant hammering of the piston may crack the poly carbonate gearbox case. This is especially true if I were to put a aluminum piston, piston head, cylinder head in it. Right now I am doing lot of research on what internal upgrades it takes. The gear box is proprietary to this replica so finding out what upgrades it takes is not easy. Internally it is the same as the more popular M249s by most account which I think takes version 2 internals and version 6 nozzles but I am not positive enough of this information to make a purchase. What I am considering is to run this replica stock while building a upgraded gear box to drop in when it fails. I am running the spring in rate of fire position with lower fps so as not to stress the gear box. The problem is the box mag can NOT feed fast enough to keep up the mechanism even with 8.4 volt batteries instead of the recommended (and preferred ) 9.6 volt batteries that I normally use in a support replica. I really need to order that tamiya motor mentioned and remotor the box magazine. I really SHOULD at least open the mech box up and reshim and grease it but as long as it stays consistent in fps and makes no noise I am not going to borrow trouble by cracking it open.

________________________________________________________________________________

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Update:

 

For those that have been living under a rock. ARES used to produce replicas for STAR, They have decided to cut STAR out and produce replica under their own brand. The replicas are the same but have been revisited internally. The ARES M60 is currently around $450 right now but you gain a metal gearbox and a improved box magazine which is supposed to fix the two biggest issues with this replica. Although ARES has told me that they will not guarantee 100% compatibility, I have no doubt that they will work.

 

I have been in contact with ARES HK and Ares USA looking for their metal gear box and improved box magazines, They responded in three days to my inquiry with a list of US retailers. Of the 10 retailers they suggested NONE of them carry ARES replacement parts yet. So the Email run around continues. I know that they are available as I know of at least one other user has gotten his hands on the gearbox and box magazine and raves about the difference. He has upgraded his to greater than 400fps (420fps with .20s or so and 30 rounds per second) Much higher than I am willing to but his will be a good guide on what explodes internally and what upgrades are available. ( edit: Kapowee seems to have the gear box, I an going to try there, Gunner or uncompany I forget who exactly has had the box magazine )

 

After the last LP game, I barely used the M60 as its feed problems caused a lot of dry fires on the range, It ended up back in its case for the day, but not before another replica that was propped up next to the jeep fell over and impacted the plastic feed tray. This is normally protected by the rear cover and is decorative in nature. However I was removing the battery to use in another replica and left the cover open. The impact scored a direct hit on the feed tray breaking it in four pieces. I removed and repaired this with Plastruct plastic weld. This is a very aggressive plastic solvent cement. It worked very well on the ABS plastic feed tray, but be warned that if you use this solvent use it in very small quantities. I have not reinstalled the feed try of faux bullets.

 

I just finished modding my box magazine with a Tamiya Jr sprint Dash motor ($5) and a 4X AA battery holder from radio shack ($2) So with the clouds of solder and flux stinking up my room I finished the electric install. While I was in the box magazines mechanism I cleaned the goop out of the nylon gears and re greased it with Labelle 106 PTFE white grease. This is a plastic compatible grease used for the gear boxes of large scale (Garden) model trains (I collect expensive hobbies as a hobby apparently)

 

Something that the guide I re-posted does not mention is the depth although there is a lot of surface area inside the box magazine the depth is very tight because of the way the mechanism sits inside the box magazine. I ended up cutting and grinding out the box magazines lid with careful use of a dremel motor tool and Exacto knifes to remove internal bracing that keeps the battery holder (original) from shifting around inside. Even with the bracing trimmed out the lid is a very tight fit, Ever so slightly bowing at the bottom.

 

What this gained me is a little more oomph in the feed. It is still prone to fits and starts while just running BBs through the magazine back into the bag but it is much better than it was stock. My next test will to run some BBs through the replica in the super secrete testing range located in my basement out of public eye. It is my hope that it will be found usable at the next LP game I make it to.

 

 

[JeepCJ8]

I apologize for the double post but I hit my word limit and I really feel this is pertinent, This was written by James Bernatchez, it is reposted with his permittion and images are hosted on my own bandwidth. Even after doing this mod, which did help matters I am still having feed problems and dryfire problems. I may try to replace the feed spring with McMaster-Carr # 966K49 spring and McMaster-Carr# 3038K192 silicone tube as this significantly helped feeding problems with my M249.

 

STAR M60 Box Mag Mod How-To

by: James Bernatchez

 

Most people who own or have seen a Star M60 fire found them to misfire a great deal, even on an 8.4v battery. There hasn't been any upgrades from Star so people have found it is up to themselves to figure out a way to modify the magazine to feed reliably. Now, I take no responsibility if you mess up your magazine. This is just for information purposes only. If you do not think you can do this, find somebody who is comfortable doing it for you.

 

Even after changing out to a 9v battery I found my M60 to misfire a BB far to much for my liking. Others have said the same. One person on the forum thinks the answer is the motor. He said after installing one of these Tamiya motors it is now feeding great! Now it isn't that bad and is skirmishable as is, but I am not able to leave well enough alone. I must enhance its performance. Please note, that a stock box mag differs from the one in the photos as I have already added a pressure switch and the 9v battery to mine.

 

First things first the parts list. In order to complete this task you will need:

-STAR M60 Box Mag

-Pressure Switch (NC Star is the brand I have and I picked it up on ebay for $10 shipped)

-Tamiya Jr 4wd Motor (I have 3 available Power Dash, Hyper Dash 2, and Sprint Dash)

-9v Battery Harness (I am using one from Radio Shack)

-9v battery

-18AWG High strand count copper wire (16AWG would be smaller and easier to use)

-Small Phillips head screwdriver

-Wire strippers

-Scissors

-Shrink wrap

-Soldering Iron (I recommend an 80 watt iron)

-60/40 Rosin Core Solder

 

 

 

Disassembly

 

1.) Flip the box mag over and remove the four phillips head screws. Remove the bottom cover and be careful not to lose the screws.

 

 

2.) Locate the 2 phillips head screws marked and remove them. With these removed you will be able to take out the motor/bb assembly from the box magazine. NOTE: I already have the pressure switch installed as well as the 9v battery. If your box mag is stock you will have to remove the 3 AA batteries and there will be one screw holding in the battery holder. Once that is done you will see the on/off switch which is held in with hot glue. Use a flat head screw driver to loosen the glue from the side of the box mag. This will allow you to slide the switch out. Remove that and then you can remove the two screws to take the motor/bb assembly out. Don't worry, you can remove the whole assembly without worry, it is screwed together so nothing will fall apart.

 

 

3.) The screw arrowed in the box mag holds the BB feed tube in place. This does NOT need to be removed. It can stay. In the photo below you can see there is no on/off switch on my harness. This is because I had the pressure switch installed and it can not fit through the slot in the mag, so I had to snip it. It isn't a problem because it would all need to be soldered again anyways.

 

4.) Now to remove the motor. Remove the two screws arrowed and that will allow to to take off the motor holder and motor.

 

5. For reference, you can see a three pronged switch that I have arrowed. What happens is that BB's are fed under this switch, up through the BB tube into the hop up. If you are not firing the gun the BB's will stop and the switch will be depressed which will shut off your motor so you don't burn it up. You can see that two red wires are soldered to it. The "A" wire goes to one side of the on/off or pressure switch. The "B" wire goes to the positive side on the motor. The switch is basically a closed circuit. When no BB's are pushing it, the motor is connected to the switch so when you press it or turn it on, the motor feeds BB's. When the BB's press it on, the switch opens and cuts power to the motor.

 

===NOTE=== This owner already upgraded to box mag to a 9volt battery in place of 3 AAs that is factory The factory box mag's wiring and motor is not up to this, you will smoke the factory stuff.

 

6.) Here is the pinion gear on the new Tamiya motor. It is a press fit pinion gear so you only need a flat head to slide it off of the old shaft. Once off just push it onto the new shaft. Done! For reference, the motors say to use them with 2.4v - 3v. I plan on running 9v through them as I have heard they can take it. Only usage will be able to tell me if that is the case. You might be wondering what is the difference between the three motors. The only difference that I can see is the RPM that they spin at. The Power Dash spins at 19,900 RPM. The Sprint Dash spins at 20,700 RPM. The Hyper Dash 2 spins at 17,200 RPM. NOTE: these RPMs are measured with the proper voltage being 2.4v -3v. They should spin a great deal faster on 9v. I plan to wire up the box mag in this how-to with 9v, but I plan to wire up my other mag with a 4 AA holder. If they both work I plan to run it on 4 AAs as it should have less wear and tear than with the 9v battery.

 

 

Some more recent impressions, I am still having box magazine feeding issues although not nearly as sever as they were since it has been I re motored the box magazine. I perfer this replica over my A&K M249 it is surprising in that it is lighter and I think easier to handle. It balances well for me anyway. As soon as I can I am intending to use a ARES box mag and gearbox, I have about 10.000 Bbs through it now, with no issues except for the gear box, The gear box is noisy and I am afraid to open it up and let the magic smoke out, as long as it works for now, A word on the spring, this changes out just like the A&K M249 but it is longer than a normal AEG, Meaning the distance between the piston head nad spring guide is longer in SP1 when you choke the spring up to SP2 it is roughly the same as a normal AEG mech box. With this in mind a Prometheus M150 yielded results much lower than would normally be expected. Another thought I have had his to try to get my hands on the box magazine from the A&K M60/mk43 if it shares the feed mechanism from there M249 (I don't know if it does or not) it would be alot better than the STAR provides.

[JeepCJ8]

7.) Now it is time to cut the 18AWG wires to the size you need. Just put them up next to the existing wires and cut them to the same size. If using a pressure switch and battery box, you will need a short red wire from the motor to the switch, a long red wire from the switch to one side of the pressure switch and a black wire from the motor to the negative wire on the battery harness.

 

 

8.) Now, using your wire strippers, remove the ends of each side in order to get them ready to be soldered.

 

 

9.) Now that the wires are ready we need to get the motor and bb gear assembly ready. Desolder the red wires from the switch. You do NOT need to desolder the black or red wire from the motor because you arn't reusing it right now.

 

10.) With the above complete, we need to tin each end of the exposed wires as well as the two tabs on the motor. Just a little solder will do. This is to help the solder flow together when you go and attach the wires.

 

 

 

11.) Attach the black wire to the negative tab on the motor, which happens to be on the left side. Attach the short red wire to the post labeled "A" and the positive motor tab labeled "A". Last, you want to attach the long red wire on the left most post of the switch. You can see in the second photo that the black wire will go to the negative side of the battery connector and the red wire will go to one side of either the on/off switch or pressure switch.

 

 

 

12.) In the photo below I have attached the negative wire of the battery connector to the negative wire coming off the motor. I used a small piece of shrink wrap to insulate the connection.

 

13.) Now here is the pressure switch wiring. Inside of the outer insulating silicone there are two small wires, one red (positive) and one black (negative). First, forget what is which. It does not matter. Both of these will be attached to the positive side of the wiring. We do this because when the pressure switch is not pressed, nothing will happen. Once we press the pressure switch it completes the flow of electricity and will in turn power the motor. So it is the opposite of the switch inside the motor/bb assembly. It is open when it is not pressed and closed when it is pressed.

 

 

NOTE: Before finally attaching the pressure switch to the battery harness and the internal switch you should double check that your motor is turning in the right direction. With the motor in the motor holder and you looking down on the motor the pinion gear should spin COUNTER CLOCKWISE. In order to test hold the wires to the wires they should be attached to. Then, give the pressure switch a quick fast push. If the gears wind as they should you should be fine. If nothing happens you might need to reverse the two wires on the motor.

 

14.) After tinning the two wires on the pressure switch (remember, this is just coating them with a small amount of solder) we want to attach one end to the long red wire from the switch and the other end to the red (positive) wire coming from the battery harness. Don't forget to slip a piece of shrink wrap over the wire BEFORE soldering them. Then slip the shrink wrap over the adjoining wires and shrink it with a lighter. Tuck the wiring in the side of the box, put the motor/bb assembly in place and make sure none of the wiring is in the way. It should slide back down relatively easily. Do NOT forget to put the two screws that hold the assembly back in. The 9v should fit above this with ease. Screw on the bottom cover, load up some BB's and get to testing! NOTE: If you are using a 4 AA holder you will need to use a dremel to remove some of the webbing on the inside of the bottom cover in order to get it to sit flush.

 

15. After completing this I loaded up about 1,500 BBs, put the battery in the gun, attached the box mag to the gun and went outside. I found that the motor spun faster and sounded like it had more torque. Upon shooting it I was happy with the mod. Because the mag isn't spring loaded to always keep pressure on the BBs it will NEVER feed 100%. With the new motor and wiring I had far less misfires than previously, although they still did occur. I had my girlfriend count out 5 seconds while during that time I held the trigger and pressure switch down until she told me the time was up. I would guestimate that I fired 100 to 150 rounds....with only about 6 misfires. There was some bursts of 3-4 seconds that I had no misfires and some that had 2 or 3 quickly.

 

I do think this mod is an improvement, but unless they design a spring loaded box mag they will never feed 100%. For the total cost of this mod it is well worth it! Even if it didn't help the feeding, knowing I have a high quality Tamiya motor as well as thicker wiring has made me feel more comfortable using the mags for an extended time. I hope this was helpful and useful for everyone!

[JeepCJ8]

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