Candyman Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 After some chatting with mods/admin it seems, for now at least, I can restart this thread. As ever the links in my sig wil take you to a page holding all the pics and progress should anything happen to this thread but im sure it wont. I would hope if anyone says anything that could result in a thread cosure that those comments would just be removed and then I can just carry on posting progress. Ok, lets build! Link to post Share on other sites
Candyman Posted August 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 Link to post Share on other sites
Pinkfloyd Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 Nice Candyman, it's comming along nicely! I'm looking forward to seeing how this one turns out! Link to post Share on other sites
Five-sEvEn Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 How is your hacksawing skill so precise?! Link to post Share on other sites
IronWolf Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 Whats the base gun you're using? spring powered i assume? Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 It will be gas bolt action, using an m700 as the donor. Started by pulling the m700 trigger unit apart, as you can see the DSR has a very shallow body and it wil be hard to fit everything in. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Random question for ya candyman, does taking pictures of each stage add a noticable amount of time to the build? Link to post Share on other sites
Candyman Posted August 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 Five-sEvEn: Im good with a hacksaw, does get boring though when its a bit that big. IronWolf: Yes Gas bolt action, M700. dannyboy: Good question! erm....... no, taking of pics not a problem, just snap as I go. The actual resizing and uploading onto my website and the forums does take a little while, but it makes a nice change after working on the gun. Plus the support I receive on the forums is essential sometimes to keep me going. Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 Were you cutting the piece with it so high in the vice btw? Link to post Share on other sites
Bangla_Black Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 Ahh.. this is going to be good.. Can't wait for the finished product! Link to post Share on other sites
Sale Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 There's a DSR in those aluminum blocks already. It just takes the right guy to reveal it. -Sale Link to post Share on other sites
Candyman Posted August 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 Thanks for the support everyone. dannyboy: that piece is over an inch thick so even that high in the vice its never going to flex, saves shuffling it up every 5 minutes, I can get half way down then turn it over and saw the other half to meet in the middle. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 A little hacksawing tip for you Candyman. Put the blade in with the teeth facing towards you, so it cuts on the back stroke, i.e. the opposite way to what everyone's taught from junior school upwards It'll cut faster and straighter and you'll never have a blade snag, kink or snap again. Edit; p.s. You do know you can set the blade at 90° to the frame for cutting the length of long bars like that, don't you Link to post Share on other sites
Sale Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 I tried reversing the hacksaw blade when I was making a chainmail, because otherwise the saw would have been ackward to use to make links out of the spirals. A couple of years later when studying fine mechanics, I went back to the traditional style and found it actually to suit me much better after all. So whatever gets you a nice straight cut is better. One important thing is to choose the right TPI for the material. My Facom allows 45° as well. -Sale Link to post Share on other sites
Candyman Posted August 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 docv400: Hello mate, ive never tried reversing the blade, not felt the need too yet, that piece was very thick so I really had to put my weight on it to cut a decent amount out. Had to turn it 45 degrees to do about 50% of it. sale I assume tpi is teeth per inch? no idea really, theres a wodge (new word) of blades in the draw, I just work my way through them. ok on to a fun bit! Little picture on the left is my guestimate of the dimensions. Finally got to use the rotary table I bought! took forever to clamp it down and get it in the middle though. Nice and clean, note the lip so the tube will slot into it same again with the sides Link to post Share on other sites
Aod Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 Awww, you didn't start with the trigger guard this time Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 Basically, the thicker the material you're cutting, the less teeth you need per inch, and the softer it is, the less teeth you want. You should get a nice little lathe as well... Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Andrews Posted August 28, 2007 Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 You do know they have this thing called electricity, don't you? And it can be used to power a bandsaw? Thought I'd just mention it after you had laboriously sawn a slice off that block. (I assume the big bit went straight in the scrap box after............... ) Link to post Share on other sites
Triggerhappychappy Posted August 28, 2007 Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 Damn you for hiding this build from me in the 'general disscusion' section. I like the new rotary table- those arent cheap either, so I assume you must be gearing up for mass production or parts with such fancy equipment.... *dreams on*. I will be following along as usual, should be interesting when you get to the trick front section. Link to post Share on other sites
Lord Blackgoat Posted August 28, 2007 Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 Awesome, and then some more! A really nice choice of model to reproduce moreover, and probably very courageous, as it's not the most straightforward out there... Have fun! Link to post Share on other sites
Sale Posted August 28, 2007 Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 I know where I'm investing a few grand when I have a suitable location to put the machinery. -Sale Link to post Share on other sites
the cleaner Posted August 28, 2007 Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 Candyman. . .that looks like a 4" rotary table. . what mill do you have? it doesn't look like it has a tilting column. .or is the tilt in the head? Good to have an angle vise too. .. I can't wait to get my mill. .hopefully before the end of the month. . but I'm slapping a 6" rotary table on (that's the largest you can go on mini mills). . .what's the HP rating on yours? oh yes. .and great job. . seeing your process is the best part of the build. . the final results is just icing on the cake. Link to post Share on other sites
Candyman Posted August 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 The cleaner: Good question, yeh i think its 4 inch, the mill is a seig X1, very little. The column does tilt although I have never moved it. No idea on power, not much I think , the gears inside are all plastic! which was a bit of a shock, but still it does me and doesnt take up too much room. flatten the sides and mark a bit of a curve still a bit lump but im gonna leave this bit for now and finish it off when I know how im fixing it to the front. Link to post Share on other sites
Catman Posted August 28, 2007 Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 Coming on nicely What grade aluminium are you working with there? Also do you plan on doing performance tweaks etc to the gutted M700? Link to post Share on other sites
Aod Posted August 29, 2007 Report Share Posted August 29, 2007 i'd guess at 6016 / 6061 T5 aluminium? its cheap and readily available. Link to post Share on other sites
Candyman Posted August 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 Yeh mostly 6061, or HE30, to be honest anything I come across so long as its not really soft rubish! Ok onto the bipod leg bits: Link to post Share on other sites
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