Triggerhappychappy Posted September 10, 2007 Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 Is it me, or has every rifle you built had a really odd or complicated bipod arrangement? I have to agree, you are getting alot quicker- experience and skill. Link to post Share on other sites
Candyman Posted September 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 [-=O=-]^{Woozie}: I build when I can, im in a happy place at the moment so progress is ...... easy. Auroris: I can build all sort of things so long as you have the money of course. Triggerhappychappy hello mate, I think also im better with the Mill now, when I did the alpine I had just bought it and knew nothing about milling, still dont really but I know how to use it to do what I want. Been pondering the locking mechanism for a while, this is the only thing I could come up with that didnt show from the outside. On the DSR1 pics there doesnt seem to be any visable lever for it. Ok everyone bear with me here, I drilled into the tube and tapped it then put in a screw, cut the head and filed it smooth (on the left) then cut a little slot on the right, in the tube I have a spring from a pen pressed against the screw followed in by a metal rod, I then drilled and tapped this through the slot and screwed a lever jobbie into it. All with me so far? Then on the bipod I cut a half moon shape, now when the arm is pulled round 90 degrees from where it sits (see below) the rod will spring out into the half moon and lock. A pull on the little lever will retract the rod and allow the legs to be folded away. Link to post Share on other sites
Philip Aram Posted September 10, 2007 Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 Simply Amazing. phil Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted September 10, 2007 Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 You didn't do the countersinking with a drill bit did you Seriously though, the angle of the drill tip will not be the same as the angle of the screw head, meaning you'll end up with only a very small contact area between the screw head and the countersink, which means the screws may work loose. Use some Loctite and it'll be fine Treat yourself to a nice shiny countersink bit, it'll give much better results than a drill bit. Link to post Share on other sites
zentaurus Posted September 11, 2007 Report Share Posted September 11, 2007 brilliant . . . simply brilliant had a similar challenge when thinking about a locking mechanism for an AK overfolder project Link to post Share on other sites
Triggerhappychappy Posted September 11, 2007 Report Share Posted September 11, 2007 Problem solving skills = 10/10. That is really ingenius. Link to post Share on other sites
Candyman Posted September 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2007 Ok I managed to grab the image from a pdf of a scan that I got off a website. This image is much more detailed and you can see what bits im making a lot easier. Ok back to it, im leaving the bipod for now as I need to do the rail before I can make the locking mechanism and I havnt got the bit of metal for that yet. So the bit that slides under on the rail, this is a big chunk of ally. Drilling a 2 dead straight 10mm holes through solid ally is not easy. Constant checking and measuring still wasnt enough, I had to just enlarge the holes at the back to 10.5, its not noticable else i'd d it again . Link to post Share on other sites
the cleaner Posted September 12, 2007 Report Share Posted September 12, 2007 Candy. . .very impressive work. (my mill is coming in this week or next. . can't wait!) word of advise on tilting your head/column: 1) After you've tilted your head in a machining process. . . make sure you are using a test indicator in your chuck. . and then tram your entire table X. . swing the indicator on the left side of the table ..then on the right side. .check for flatness and discrepancies. . adjust the head according to your readings. . Just rezeroing your head is not accurate enough. If you didn't do this. .you risk having all your other parts not true/flat. .enough to make a huge difference on mating parts. Essential if you're flycutting on a large surface. Keep up the great work. .you're very inspiring to many of us! PS. .you might consider investing into a vice that can tilt and/or rotate (but you already have a rotary table). .you should try to avoid tilting your column unless you don't mind having to zero the head out every time. . then again, once you know how, it's a breeze. Link to post Share on other sites
Candyman Posted September 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2007 the cleaner: I have never tilted the column......... ever. Never had the need to, i just clamp stuff on an angle, I have an electronic bevel box, cost £20 ($40) tilting the column would take too long for me, I like to work fast but each to there own. Link to post Share on other sites
the cleaner Posted September 12, 2007 Report Share Posted September 12, 2007 the cleaner: I have never tilted the column......... ever. Never had the need to, i just clamp stuff on an angle, I have an electronic bevel box, cost £20 ($40) tilting the column would take too long for me, I like to work fast but each to there own. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> and fast you are working my friend! Alot of progress. Good. .a tilting column is a nice added feature. .but shouldn't be really used unless you're ok with zeroing it afterwards. .it's not just a hassle, but essential to zero. . so if you tilt. .you HAVE TO re-zero it properly. . most machinist will tell you to use an angle plate or vise over the tilting the column. . .so yeah. .you're well ahead Link to post Share on other sites
Candyman Posted September 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2007 Ok onto the holes, need to be 8mm thick/fat so im drilling with a 7.5mm drill just to take as much material out as poss, then milling with an 8mm to do the rest. majority of the hard stuff done now, this took quite a while as you can probably see, need to smooth it all off now as its far from perfect! but at least its done and the holes line up both sides. Link to post Share on other sites
Triggerhappychappy Posted September 14, 2007 Report Share Posted September 14, 2007 That looks funky with all the machining marks, but it will look even nice when its mirror polished. I believe thats the 'foregrip'; interesting how it slides back and forth so its adjustable for different people and different holds. Why dont they make left handed sniper rifles though, it annoys me that if I wanted an airrifle in lefthanded, I would have to play £30-50 extra; thankfully mine is ambidextrous (except the bolt- another project for the CM maybe?....). Link to post Share on other sites
Aod Posted September 14, 2007 Report Share Posted September 14, 2007 That looks funky with all the machining marks, but it will look even nice when its mirror polished. I believe thats the 'foregrip'; interesting how it slides back and forth so its adjustable for different people and different holds. Why dont they make left handed sniper rifles though, it annoys me that if I wanted an airrifle in lefthanded, I would have to play £30-50 extra; thankfully mine is ambidextrous (except the bolt- another project for the CM maybe?....). <{POST_SNAPBACK}> afaik, that part should be painted black or dark grey (maybe 80% grey) Link to post Share on other sites
Number5 Posted September 14, 2007 Report Share Posted September 14, 2007 Candyman, I dont post much on the forums but i just have to say... AWSOME! your an inspiration dude! Keep it up.The way things are looking in the UK at the mo with the VCRA, it could be that modding and scratch building happens more and more in the UK. nice one pal! Link to post Share on other sites
PlasticMag Posted September 14, 2007 Report Share Posted September 14, 2007 How are you going to lock the handguard? It looks like it has a lever inside. Link to post Share on other sites
uscmCorps Posted September 14, 2007 Report Share Posted September 14, 2007 That looks funky with all the machining marks, but it will look even nice when its mirror polished. I believe thats the 'foregrip'; interesting how it slides back and forth so its adjustable for different people and different holds. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Don't forget that the foregrip is more trapezoidal when looked at head on. He just plained the surface to get it to the approximate dimensions of the final product and to get it nice and flat giving him a good even surface to work off. When he's done with the foregrip it'll look nothing like what it does now. Fantastic start CM! Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted September 14, 2007 Report Share Posted September 14, 2007 The way things are looking in the UK at the mo with the VCRA, it could be that modding and scratch building happens more and more in the UK. Manufacturing is included, i.e. not allowed, in the VCR Bill. Presumably you can still manufacture if your a skirmisher. Link to post Share on other sites
Candyman Posted September 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2007 Manufacturing is included, i.e. not allowed, in the VCR Bill. Presumably you can still manufacture if your a skirmisher. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Im modifying an existing gun, not making a whole new one. This is no different to sticking a coke can silencer and a big scope on an mp5 except im sticking a lot of bits onto it and taking my time on it. Plus I am a skimisher so there should be no problems. (Now be quiet before the thread gets locked! ) The grip will have a button on the underside of it, the real deal has a large button which I dont like so much so mine will be a bit more subtle, it'll be a push to slide operation. Link to post Share on other sites
Aod Posted September 15, 2007 Report Share Posted September 15, 2007 Im modifying an existing gun, not making a whole new one. This is no different to sticking a coke can silencer and a big scope on an mp5 except im sticking a lot of bits onto it and taking my time on it. Plus I am a skimisher so there should be no problems. (Now be quiet before the thread gets locked! ) The grip will have a button on the underside of it, the real deal has a large button which I dont like so much so mine will be a bit more subtle, it'll be a push to slide operation. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> we candyman! Link to post Share on other sites
Candyman Posted September 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2007 as you should. This took a while, been working my socks off today! milled the basic shape and the middle out as best i could Before smoothing it off with a file then getting some sand paper on it to get it nice and flat. the groove in the middle wasnt easy but im happy with it, it wont show anyway Couldnt get a sprung rubber thing to grip the rod, so in the end I cut 3 tiny grooves on the rods, I didnt want to mark it but I did it on the inside edge facing the big tube so it doesnt show. Then drilled into the bottom of the slider and made a button to fit the hole (10mm), a spring behind this, then the button screws into a flat bar that is pulled down onto the rods and slots in the grooves............. I really should have taken another pic lol, anyway the bottom line is it works and makes a fantastic metalic sound, watch the vid and see.... or hear what I mean! Slider Video.mpg - 1.7mb Link to post Share on other sites
nicktheww2fanatic Posted September 16, 2007 Report Share Posted September 16, 2007 wow...how many hours so far? Link to post Share on other sites
evilliboba Posted September 17, 2007 Report Share Posted September 17, 2007 wow...how many hours so far? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> His web page says 48 hours. Candyman- A god with a milling machine. Link to post Share on other sites
Angry Posted September 17, 2007 Report Share Posted September 17, 2007 Some pics off DSR's Website: And the DSR50 Link to post Share on other sites
my_plague_666 Posted September 17, 2007 Report Share Posted September 17, 2007 great work candyman! loved your other 2 builds. a .50 DSR??? Link to post Share on other sites
Candyman Posted September 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2007 Those pics are good, but a little irrelivant. I am making mine to look exactly like this one So main differences are the smooth mags which I love and the really short barrel also the colouring is much nicer I think. Link to post Share on other sites
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