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chas

KART EBR

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Today's my birthday and, because Im celebrating it this sunday, seeing a long package in my room as I got home, was a very nice present.

 

Anyway, this is not going to be a real review for many reasons: I dont like writing reviews, Ive got clumsy hands wich make me a slow writer and I dont have the technical knowledge to be a real AEG tester.

But I thought I have a few things that many people would like to know prior to buying one of these monsters.

 

Of course, everybody is welcome to post his own review here or open a second thred, as ever he pleases.

Main points you should know about:

 

1) Do not buy this before youve held one in your hands and maybe even played with it.

Why? Read on...

 

2) Weight : this thing is Michael Moore-ishly heavy. Im 1,90 m tall and 92 kilos, so not exactly wimpy. But still I do not regard this rifle as really built for skirmishing. I held a G&P Mk46 this morning and, although fatter things feel lighter than thinner ones, the Mk46 was a lot easier to handle than this one.

Im not saying Im not going to skirmish with this thing, but its not going to be my prime gun.

 

This is how Wupjack (thanks!) explains it :

 

I held Titleist's EBR (brand of kit I don't recall, but suffice to say it was spendy) at an Ord game 2 summers ago and it was pretty nose-heavy and put my right (strong) hand at an odd angle.

 

3) Comfort : one of the most uncomfortable guns Ive ever held. Maybe the ergonomy on this one isnt that bad, if it wasnt for the weight. Maybe an M4 or an MP5 have bad ergonomics too, but you dont care because they are so light and, thus easy to shoulder in any position.

This one isnt. I usually have issues holding guns with slim handguards because my hands are so big, but this one has a fat handguard (the plastic thing that covers the battery compartment) but is not comfortable to hold.

A foregrip feels very good but the bottom rail is to far forward. Youll need to buy a rail and put it over the plastic cover (mind you: there is no rail under it,only on the real one). But this cover is secured to a small metal piece over the battery and is very soft and bendable; Im not sure it will hold up.

 

These are the main reasons why you should play with a friends gun before you buy one, because they may turn you off... a lot. Try to borrow one in your next skirmish and dont hesitate to go to a friends house and spend as much time as needed playing with it until you are sure about wether you want it or not.

 

Other things :

 

Apparentely they dont come with batteries anymore. Didnt try mine out because it wont fit in (bad wire soldering make it impossible to close the cover).

 

Finish : good looking/badly preforming. As in Karts previous M14s, the black paint wont last long: my gun came with lots of parts scratched off already and every time I try to fit my aimpoint or the ACOG, I loose a bit more. You may want to repaint the hole thing or give it a few coats of matte varnish, as the pot metal under it isnt of the type that will give you a nice "used" look.

I found some traces of rust in the box.

Details: very good. Only one of the tens of rails ribs was kind oftrimmed on one side, but the gun is well machined.

 

Built : rock-solid. You know Chuck Norris' boots? They broke half their teeth when Chuck tried to kick this gun. Loose scrws have been reported on this gun, I only found one but that is OK.

 

Moving parts Moving parts: bolt handle works better and nicer than my AGMs, it gives a really nice "clack!".

The bolt release seems to have the spring under it, but doesnt work.

Trigger: very nice and good response.

Safety: powerful spring makes it jump from secure to fire with a great "clack" and no effort.

Semi-auto dial: was loose and the hex screw is broken. This is gonna be fun :angry:

Folding stock: hard to move, the stopper looks like it will break soon.

Stock release: hard to explain (english is only my third language). Ive taken a closer look at it and I dont think it will break unless the metal is very bad.

The stock rods have little gaps. On each side of the gun a metal plate prevents the stock from moving py getting into these gaps. The metal plates are pressed down by another metal plate. The problem is that this plate (the one you have to press with your fingers) doesnt have an own axis, but has a hole through wich a rod in the body goes. What happens is that it doesnt move very well around this rod and sometimes doesnt press the sides down correctly, so that it takes osme fiddling to free the stock and make it able to move.

Anyway, the stock has a tight fit and is not very easy to slide open. Some grease may help.

Rear sight: hard to move, both for windage and elevation.

Cheek rest: easy to use as it is released with a very practical lever. I do have a long neck though and I think Ill keep it always down.

 

Others :

 

Rails : a little to slim; some optics (such as my G&P ACOG) will "dance around" a little on them.

 

Optics : note that this gun comes with a small rail to attach to the receiver, but its only auxiliary for the rear ring on sniper scopes. You cant put a real red-dot on it (maybe a Docter sight). An Aimpoint works very well on the front handguard rail, and so should an EOtech (killer looks) ar any other red-dot.

An ACOG though, has no point there, because of the bad eye-relief.

 

Magazine : the front hole that you first attach when you insert a mag is half trimmed (plastic) and Im not sure how long until the the mags starts to fall out: it wont stay in my AGM, but AGM's mag will fit snuggly in the EBR.

 

Rear sling swivel : ambidextreous. Solid. Have used it with a single point sling, but will change to a 3-point because of the weight.

 

Performance : No chrono nor coke can, but I think its somewhere around 330 fps.

Nice range (no super-nice, but okay). Not bad accuracy (tightbore it now!).

No misfeeds in semi.

Monster ROF with an Intellect 9.6V mini! smile.gif Its a continuous misfeed in auto sad.gif : I get 1 or 2 BBs out of every 6-10 shot burst. I think I got a lemon mad.gif

 

Anyone know what it could be?

 

Dont get me wrong: its an EXCELENT value for the money, but the gun has some issues that simply may put off may players. That has to be said.

If you really love the EBR, you will be able to live with the issues.

 

Rails: cant compare with other rails (dont have the needed tools here), but let me put it this way: the aimpoint fits right, the G&P ACOG: well you here it rattle every time you move the gun.

 

Paint: the paint is the same all over the gun. They could at least have used two different shades of black: one for the M14 and one for the chasis, but...

 

Pics: not until tomorrow (have no camera). Maybe I can borrow my ex's; or maybe she agrees to borrow me the camera, but I dont come home tonight tongue.gif (pray for me to get laid! I need it! flamed.gif (in spain, when you are "burnt" it means you are so horny you are desperate)).

 

Wupjak: Im gonna quote your "weight and strong hand" explanation, because I think it is very useful.

 

 

P.S. You are going to kill me! As soon as I get tired of this elephant, Im turning it into a belt fed, boxmag using support gun... hahahaha, try and stop me!!

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First of all, Happy Birthday man!

 

Second, great review man, it answered a lot of the questions I had. Seems like it's a decent AEG for the money. Not the greatest thing, but you can't expect it for that kind of money.

 

Now if only the damn customs would let mine go. :P

 

Edit: It would be great if you could get some pics up.

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Good observations. I held Titleist's EBR (brand of kit I don't recall, but suffice to say it was spendy) at an Ord game 2 summers ago and it was pretty nose-heavy and put my right (strong) hand at an odd angle.

 

Am particularly interested in the rails. By how much are they too thin? Couple of widths of electrical tape like CA's rails? Also, the paint. Does your assessment extend to the barreled action and rails only or is the entire metal content of the gun (stock bits, flash hider, etc.)?

 

Thank you for taking the time to compile your thoughts.

 

Edit: Happy Bday! :)

 

Final question, you say the sliding stock stop is likely to break soon - is it monkey metal, plastic? Look forward to hearing your replies.

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Dont get me wrong: its an EXCELENT value for the money, but the gun has some issues that simply may put off may players. That has to be said.

If you really love the EBR, you will be able to live with the issues.

 

Rails: cant compare with other rails (dont have the needed tools here), but let me put it this way: the aimpoint fits right, the G&P ACOG: well you here it rattle every time you move the gun.

 

Paint: the paint is the same all over the gun. They could at least have used two different shades of black: one for the M14 and one for the chasis, but...

 

Pics: not until tomorrow (have no camera). Maybe I can borrow my ex's; or maybe she agrees to borrow me the camera, but I dont come home tonight :P (pray for me to get laid! I need it! :flamed: (in spain, when you are "burnt" it means you are so horny you are desperate)).

 

Wupjak: Im gonna quote your "weight and strong hand" explanation, because I think it is very useful.

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Stock release: hard to explain (english is only my third language). Ive taken a closer look at it and I dont think it will break unless the metal is very bad.

The stock rods have little gaps. On each side of the gun a metal plate prevents the stock from moving py getting into these gaps. The metal plates are pressed down by another metal plate. The problem is that this plate (the one you have to press with your fingers) doesnt have an own axis, but has a hole through wich a rod in the body goes. What happens is that it doesnt move very well around this rod and sometimes doesnt press the sides down correctly, so that it takes osme fiddling to free the stock and make it able to move.

Anyway, the stock has a tight fit and is not very easy to slide open. Some grease may help.

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Happy Birthday! :vodka:

 

Darn...am a smaller person. Would you suggest that I attach a foregrip that extends to the ground while standing and has wheels? :D

 

On a serious note, thanks for the initial review. I better prepare my tools once mine arrives. I think I'd rather play a role of auto-sniper with it than for assault. So sniper scope it is for the rail.

 

Anyone knows who sells a harris-style bipod here in the UK?

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Happy Birthday man, wish it was my birthday coz i sure would want an EBR cept i have a quick question, is there anything loose rattly apart from screws nd stuff that can be fixed, coz theres nothing more annyong than a rattly aeg, nd im still pretty sceptical about chinese 'clones' so was just windering if it is REAL solid

 

Oh and in reply to thornado, the harris-style bipod, i think Airsoft Scotland have one.. for about £30

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No chrono nor coke can, but I think its somewhere around 330 fps.

Nice range (no super-nice, but okay). Not bad accuracy (tightbore it now!).

No misfeeds in semi.

Monster ROF with an Intellect 9.6V mini! :) Its a continuous misfeed in auto :( : I get 1 or 2 BBs out of every 6-10 shot burst. I think I got a lemon :angry:

 

Anyone know what it could be?

 

Any thoughts on using this gun as a support weapon (as soon as I have solved the problems)? Is this gearbox suitable for support sooting?

 

Nothing rattling and no creaks, except for the handguard cover; this can probabilly be solved using longer screws. The stock ones are too short and its hard to fasten properly.

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I know. its gonna have to be built. Maybe its because I loved the Mk46 so much, but standing in front of the mirror with this gun automatically made me think: "This has to be belt fed!" (I love bullet belts)

 

The EBR is just the chasis around the traditional M14, its not a new gun. So, of course the M14 (EBR or not) can be turned into a sniper or DMR, but not with the stock internals of this one.

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Sorry, wont try that until October. I had already planned on throwing in my AGM M14, as I was already expecting the Kart to be "not so good", but I have an important game next weekend and I dont wana risk having two disassembled M14 I cant put back together fast enough for the skirmish.

 

Or maybe I try. On monday (this weekend is the Communist Party Fest and Ill be partying from friday to sunday night. If you ever come to Madrid in september dont miss it).

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Thanks for the explanations, chas. Your English is excellent. I'll probably be upgrading mine with a Guarder kit after I poke around inside it to make sure it's all compatible with TM/standard parts.

 

Oh, y mejor dicho, ¡Feliz Cumpleaños! ;)

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Muchas gracias! :D Good spanish there, too! Most people would have failed in the "mejor dicho" part.

 

Anyway, I havent tried yet, but I dont think fitting another M14 (as long as its based on Maruis design) will be a problem.

Why would Kart redisign the EBR concept, rather than cusing their already cloned M14s and copying the EBR kit from King Arms or TGS? It would be more coplicated and more expensive.

I also just noticed that in the exploded view diagram of the AEG, there are two parts:

one for the chasis and one for the M14. For the latter they used the picture from a regular M14's manual exploded view diagram.

 

If you want to upgrade the internals, keep in mind the gerbox has a few particularities: the gears are all regular size (not GB V.7) and something about the piston or spring guide.

Youll have to follow a Kart regular M14 upgrade guide or an AGM ones, cuase (for the reasons described a few lines above) I dont think they redesigned the GB to exactly copy Marui's, like Cyma did.

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Good information.

 

I was into and out of my Marui M14 several times upgrading and repairing it, so the differences should be apparent. Nice to see that this gun uses a standard sized spur gear, too. That'll make choosing another gear set much easier.

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Good info, man.

 

As I already have one of the more expensive EBR's :P I was thinking of buying a clone for the chopmod/cqb look. Keep us updated on if it's upgradeable or not.

 

Happy Birthday(!), and your English, being a third language, is excellent as well.

 

Cheers!

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