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Guinness' Weathering Guide


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Meaning "How did you do it?" or "Why on earth did you beat up perfectly good grips?" :P

I would love to know how you achieved the 'battered' look on the 1911 grips!

Please tell :D

I will buy you a pint of The Black Stuff for your trouble :P

 

If you have a chance sometime could you re-post the pic of the 'weathered' 1911 grips attached to the WA?

It is not showing on my work computer.

Thanks

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I would love to know how you achieved the 'battered' look on the 1911 grips!

Please tell :D

I will buy you a pint of The Black Stuff for your trouble :P

 

If you have a chance sometime could you re-post the pic of the 'weathered' 1911 grips attached to the WA?

It is not showing on my work computer.

Thanks

 

 

:D Well instead of that, just send DIAGEO a letter demanding they stop efforts to end Guinness production at St. James Gate (Blasphemy!) Although, mine comes from Canada anyway, but still thats just wrong.

 

 

I beg patience as I am finishing up 'Parts V & VI' of the weathering guide this week and will have it posted in this thread and the review database as well.

 

I hesitate to re-add the 1911 image as it shows for me and since it would ultimately be the same Photobucket source link, repost would likely have the same results on your work machine- If thats your only source shoot me a PM and I can provide some alternate shots.

 

 

 

Slainte!

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:D Well instead of that, just send DIAGEO a letter demanding they stop efforts to end Guinness production at St. James Gate (Blasphemy!) Although, mine comes from Canada anyway, but still thats just wrong.

 

 

I beg patience as I am finishing up 'Parts V & VI' of the weathering guide this week and will have it posted in this thread and the review database as well.

 

I hesitate to re-add the 1911 image as it shows for me and since it would ultimately be the same Photobucket source link, repost would likely have the same results on your work machine- If thats your only source shoot me a PM and I can provide some alternate shots.

 

 

 

Slainte!

 

I see it now (I am using my home computer)

Looking forward to Parts V & VI

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guinness's Weathering and Aging 'How-To' Guide


Part V



The long awaited :PPart V will present my method for creating a 'worn' look on metal Airsoft replica guns.

I wanted to first thank everyone for their patience and continued interest in this series :D it has certainly been fun producing them, even though it is in fact a good deal of effort to take the pictures with greasy, paint-covered hands, then compile and edit down all the images and finally think up some reasonably clear and easy to follow instructions, lol!

Hopefully the pics will illuminate where my words fail :rolleyes:

The goal is the replicate the wear and patina of battle-hardened weapons to add authenticity and feel to your Airsoft period reenacting impression. Many of us invest a lot of time, effort and creativity to make sure our clothing and gear is as correct and as authentic as possible, this process allows you to carry that over to your weapons system.

First a note: It would be easy and somewhat 'logical' I suppose to just bang and scrape the heck out of a metal replica to achieve the use and abuse that a rifle or handgun would receive over it's service life, however if you research weapons pictures that have been used or are being used in the field, you will seldom see guns that appear as though they have just been run through a wood chipper and put back in the gun rack. While 'scratches' are certainly a part of natural wear, what is more common is the fading or 'silvering' effect that comes from the greases and oils from hands or equipment used with these weapons. Leather holsters rub and wear down corners and leading edges from use- The acidic oils on our hands or faces will interact with gun metals and woods to change the appearance over time. Sand and grit from 'Desert Climates' and areas ;)really do a number on guns. Gouges and scratches are generally limited to the 'protruding' edges of a rifle such as the leading edge of an M16 gunsight, or the casing bulge, etc.

The best advice for anyone wishing to create this effect on their gun is to start by searching images of their particular weapon on the web, find as many pictures as you can to get an idea of how 'real guns' age and wear, then decide how much wear is appropriate for your weapon. Consult this guide for tips on how I did it- As usual feel free to ask me questions.

Let your creativity flow and have fun!



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Finished veteran Mauser



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Finished veteran MP40



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The Process...


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HFC Broomhandle Mauser prior to weathering with bag of 'steel wool' pads



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Metal HFC Broomhandle Mauser before weathering process....



Step 1 - Steel Wool


The types of metal used by Airsoft manufacturers varies with the most prevalent being so-called 'pot metal' which is a term given to an alloy of zinc and other metals (aluminum, copper, iron, magnesium, lead, zinc and other common metals) combined to form a reasonably sturdy, but mostly cheap, cost effective material for toy and parts.

Higher quality metals such as painted aluminum are also used in Airsoft replicas and more and more even steel is being used.

I begin the aging step on all my metal weapon projects using steel wool pads that are available from any hardware store for about $5 to $8 dollars a bag.

Steel wool is 'softer' and less abrasive than a sanding pad or fine grit sandpaper which makes it an excellent place to start the process. Until you gain experience and have a few projects under your belt its always a good idea to begin gradually, making small improvements or changes rather than drastic ones- Obviously if you make a mistake early on and 'ruin' your gun it will be frustrating and could be expensive or even impossible to reverse or repair.

Notice how the color and cast of the Broomhandle changed from a darker, almost blue color in the first 'pre-aging' pictures to a more authentic light grey after the steel wool application.


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Beginning weathering



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Closeup of Broomhandle, using steel wool



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During process, using steel wool


Application:

Steel wool is great for buffing and will even out poorly applied finishes on many metal guns. It will bring out an authentic shine if used on the chalky finishes of many metal slide and frame kits for pistols.

Steel wool is also great for gradually removing paint from corners and leading edges of the gun as you move from simply 'buffing' a finish to a more aggressive aging effect.

The amount of buffing you chose to do depends on how 'old' or worn you wish to make the gun appear. Again, I prefer to move gradually. I have gone 'too far' on enough occasions that I have learned my lesson.

When buffing with steel wool, or lightly sanding with a sanding pad or a dremel, pay attention to the areas where you hold the gun and the controls. Buffing mag release buttons or hammers and trigger faces is correct as these places will naturally see the most use.

Its a good ldea to have a can of matching paint or gunmetal paint handy for mistakes.


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During process, using steel wool to wear edges




Step 2 - Distressing

Just like the process for 'distressing' wood stocks, I use common tools to create any gouges or scratches that I have decided to add to a metal replica. When working on my Mauser Broomhandle project, adding a few scratches and nicks seemed right, but I would likely never do this to a 1911 or even a rifle for that matter.

Again compare as many real-steel pictures as you can find as a guide.


Application:

Aging and distressing tools I use for metal replicas:

-File
-Screwdriver
-Tack Hammer
-Dremel
-Sanding pad
-Steel Wool Pads

If you decide a scratch or gouge is what your replica needs, always follow up and go over the area and buff with a steel wool pad to remove any sharp edges or burrs.

Remember: You are recreating the finish or appearance of a used weapon- Rough edges are generally worn down over time and with use.

I still depend on good 'ol steel wool to do most of the work, however the Dremel is a very handy tool to have for this type of work. Be careful though, like a rough sandpaper or sanding block, the dremel can work too fast and make too drastic a change if not used carefully.

Dremels are especially effective on metal replicas for quickly sanding down corners and shining up finishes. Again, use caution.



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'Battle Worn' Mauser with Marushin 'blued' Mauser






Part Vii follows immediately due to image constraints
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Guinness's Weathering and Aging 'How-To' Guide


Part Vii -Conclusion




And finally, here are some 'before' and 'after' pictures of the MP40 following the same process



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Right Side closeup -Before-



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Right Side closeup -After-



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Left Side -Before-



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Left Side -After-



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Veteran MP40




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Veteran MP40






Look for Part III - Plastics later this weekend!





Slainte!
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  • 3 weeks later...
Any idea when you will be able to do Part III Plastics?

 

 

Doh! you noticed! :o

 

:P

 

Actually, please forgive me, the images are all edited I just have to strap myself in the chair long enough to write it.

 

It will be added this weekend, promise!

 

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

 

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Doh! you noticed! :o

 

:P

 

Actually, please forgive me, the images are all edited I just have to strap myself in the chair long enough to write it.

 

It will be added this weekend, promise!

 

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

 

I will hold you to that :P

Really looking forward to it Guinness.

Thanks

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Well shucks... :blush: Thanks man!

 

Actually I am thinking of working on it this weekend after seeing Sgt. McKenzies amazing M870. I will probably limit any 'aging' I do to it to the leading edges, meaning the edges of the receiver, end of the barrel, etc. and not so much sanding off of the sides of the receiver or the controls, trigger, safety switch etc. I guess on that one I would probably go for a 'lightly' used look rather than the 'Battle Veteran' look the good Sgt did on his Tanaka.

 

Plus the trigger guard on mine and the Marushin it is a clone of are black plastic to begin with, so there is not much I would be able to do there even if I did want to go for a more 'beat up' effect.

 

 

And actually it all depends on me finishing this article first this weekend, since I've committed to that before I do any more project work :rolleyes:

 

 

..plus there is Christmas shopping I need to get done... ^_^

 

 

 

Slainte!

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Guinness's Weathering and Aging 'How-To' Guide





And now, finally, the conclusion of my aging and weathering guide for Airsoft replicas.

But first, a brief recap.

Part I: Sanding and Preparing Wood- I began the series discussing how to sand and remove the original finish from wood kits. Techniques for stripping the wood down, sanding and refinishing.


Part II: Distressing and Aging Wood- The next part of the series covered how to get that 'Battle Veteran' appearance from your furniture using simple household tools. Using screwdrivers and a hammer to put nicks and dings in the wood. Then, how to apply acrylic paint washes to darken the wood and give it the aged look.


Part III: Linseed Oil Application- This completed the Wood Furniture section of the Guide and discusses the final step for producing a Veteran Airsoft replica.


Part IV: Rack Numbers- Just a quick section on adding 'Rack' or Arsenal numbers to add even more realism to your replica.


Part V: Metal Replica Weathering and Aging This section focuses on techniques for giving your metal bodied Airsoft replica a worn appearance. Again using common tools and inexpensive supplies from the local hardware store you can create a War Vet look for your replica.


Part VI

Plastics




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I would like to just take a moment and Thank Everybody for their very kind words of encouragement along the way. I have received a ton of very positive feedback and I want to thank you guys for the support. I truly hope this guide helps you guys to create your own "War Veterans" for use with your impressions or just to wow them at the local skirmish site!

This will be the conclusion of my series as we have covered pretty much all of the major areas of 'weathering ' or aging your replica. There are techniques to use for the wood stocks and furniture that you would add to an Airsoft replica weapon or those that come from the factory with wood. As well I have given you tips and pictures to deal with the wood kits that are coming out of China right now, these are quality wood, but seem to be very red in color for some reason- that is covered in the series.

I have also shown you how to add rack numbers to your gun, And in the last episode I provided techniques to create the aging and hard use effects on metal replicas.

Finally in Part IV we will look at how to achieve this effect on plastic. This will mainly be concerned with plastic grips, the technique will help you to create a real wood-like effect on plastic.


AgedBroomhandle1_sml.png





Right then, let's get to it!


Step 1 - Preparation


Materials Needed:
-Acrylic Paints from Arts and Crafts Store > $2 bucks a bottle
-Medium Grit Sanding Pad > $3.50 from Hardware Store
-Clear Coat Spray Paint- > I use Krylon Clear Coat, $5
-News Paper, Paper Towels, Plastic cup for paint mixing
-Hand Tools: Flat head Screwdriver, File, Dremel (Optional)

As with all of the processes we have discussed in the series so far, the first step is to make sure you have an adequate work area and all the materials you will need to get the job done ready and handy.

I do all my sanding, dremelling, distressing, and painting work in my garage on nice sunny days. I open one door of the garage so that all my neighbors can see me work and wonder what "The kook with all the guns is doing now" ;D

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My work area and 'portable paint bay and dryer' otherwise known as a ladder..



Step 2 - Sanding

As with the process for aging wood, working on plastics requires beginning with a good sanding of the item to be weathered.

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First sanding on Broomhandle grips


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First sanding of black checkered 1911 grips



Sand using medium-grit sandpaper or sanding pad. Sanding pads are better to work with because they allow you to get into the cracks and ridges much easier.

Sand until the top shiny layer has been removed. And here's another tip- its a good idea when doing pistol grips do one at a time, this makes it easier to gauge how much you have done because you can compare it to the original form the opposite side.



Step 3 - Distressing

Similar to what we did on the wood furniture, we will use household tools to create the distressed look on the plastic pieces. However a hammer won't be used in this process.

I use a screwdriver to create small dents and nicks, and I also use the file from my multi-purpose tool to make deep cuts and gouges.

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Broomhandle Mauser grip about to get abused...


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1911 grips getting the file treatment


Follow this step with a good sanding to remove rough edges and to smooth the gouges out to help make the plastic look even more like wood. For the most realistic 'wood' effect, be sure to sand edges and 'wear areas'- for instance on 1911 grips, the 'points' of the checkered grips would be worn smooth with use- make sure to hit those especially, leading edges or forward and rear edges as these would be 'contact' areas of the grip. On the Broomhandle's grips I used a dremel and went through the deep ridges, again to simulate the wear that real wood grips would see over the life of the weapon. As always, a couple of good nicks and gouges add 'character' to the piece and keep it from looking 'brand new' to go along with any other aging you have done to the replica.


BrnPlas1911Grips_2ndSand_sml.png


BroomhandleGripsFinalSand_sml.png




End of Part VIi

Part VIii Follows











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Guinness's Weathering and Aging 'How-To' Guide





Part VIii

Plastics Cont.



Step 4 - Painting



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Preparing for first acrylic paint coat on Broomhandle grips


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Acrylic paints to be used on 1911 grips


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Mixing acrylic base colors for 1911 grips



I always use newspaper as my 'palette' for these projects. And I use a plastic cup for water to mix the acrylic paints.

Just as we did with the wood treatment with applying acrylic paint, you will paint, then wait about a minute, then wipe the paint off until you get the darkenss or degree of aging you want.

Plastic is different than wood in that the paint will not 'soak in', this is one of the reasons that you sand the plastic to begin with, this roughs the surface up so that the paint will stick better and mimic as much as possible the soaking effect that wood has. Just make sure you don't wipe the acrylic paint off too soon, and conversely, the longer you leave it on, the more 'permanent' it is.

Don't worry, remember acrylic paint is water based, so just dip your brush in the water cup and go over any areas you want to 're-do' before they dry hard.

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1st coat on Broomhandle grips


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Black 'Layer' Wiped Down, 2nd Brown Layer applied


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Applying First Layer


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1st Layer on 1911 Grips


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Broomhandle Mauser Grips Completed


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Halfway Done-


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1911 Grips Done, Just Need Clear Coat Spray






Final Step - Clear Coat Spray


Now that you have sanded, distressed, painted, wiped, and painted again until you reach the look you want, it is important to over spray the plastic grips, stock or whatever piece you are working on. This is especially important for 'high use' areas such as pistol grips. The sweat from your hand can ruin the all the work you have put into the replica quickly. Clear coat provides a protective layer over your work that will keep the acrylic paint from coming off. This is also useful if you use regular spray paint on plastics. For instance, if you use Testors 'Metalizer' gunmetal paints to apply a more realistic gray or parkerized effect on gun barrels or other surfaces, the clear coat will protect the finish and keep it from scratching or rubbing off with normal use.



In Conclusion...

This concludes Guinness's Weathering and Aging 'How-To' Guide

As I said earlier, I really hope this helps all you to weather and age your replicas. At very least perhaps this will give you ideas that you can try on your own guns. It was certainly a lot of fun doing this series, and I will be putting it up on the Review Database so its in a convenient place for everybody to find.

Please don't hesitate to contact me with any questions or assistance you may need!

Tons of thanks to Arnies and all the members that have requested this information! Do your research on the look your going for, and let your creativity come out! Have fun with it and let's be sure to see your work in the "Battle Worn" and the other picture threads!







Slainte!
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Very, very impressive.

 

The only tiny thing I'd add is that you should always think about WHERE you're putting marks on a rifle stock.

For example, as in the above picture, the only way a rifle will receive damage to the pistol grip will be if you fall over it while drunk. :P

 

Also, consider the orientation of the dents. Look at what bits of the gun are in the way when you're using the rifle BUT also look at what parts of it rub against your kit when the rifle is slung etc.

You often find that military rifles will all have similar wear patterns because they all get used the same way.

 

Smoothness is as much a sign of aging as dents as well.

Rather than distressing areas such as the pistol grip and foregrip, you might want to rub them smooth to simulate wear.

 

The weathering you've done looks amazing though. :)

 

 

Gosh Stealthbomber.......I really appreciate the input :)

 

However...you do know I research these things on the interwebs....right? :unsure:

 

As well as 'real life' experience :D

 

So, in short- the nicks and scratches and dents and gouges in my guns are all because I saw real guns with exactly the same type of abuse.

 

....So I will continue to do it this way and show others the technique, thanks :P

 

The real beauty to this kind of thing is, there really is no 'right' way- Guns get abused because they are used plain and simple- they are dropped, knocked, banged around and sometimes used as a hammer or a club- the 'soft' areas, i.e. the wooden bits are going to get the sh** beat out of them over time.

 

I do agree about the 'smoothness' and I took special care to sand the Thompson front handguard down where the user would have worn it somewhat smooth from wear- the pic at the bottom of the CYMA Thompson (slightly red wood) shows a little better for that

 

 

So again, I appreciate the advice, honestly, but I think I have it just right thanks ;)

 

Sorry if I wasn't clear. I tend to use the word "you" as a generalisation rather than, specifically aimed at you.

 

I just meant to point out that you (specifically ;)) hadn't mentioned anywhere that people (in general) need to think about whereabouts on a gun they apply dents and scratches etc.

Your stuff almost always looks terrific but I just wanted to note that people should think carefully and do some research (as you have) before simply attacking a gun with sandpaper or wire wool. :)

 

Nothing looks worse (IMO) than seeing an M4 that looks like somebody's poured paint stripper over the receiver. How on earth would an M4 lose the paint off the flat area above the magwell, for example, when there's raised parts jutting out to stop anything rubbing against the flat area?

 

Equally (and I know I used one of your pics as an example of this), I reckon people should think VERY carefully before trying to apply deep scratches or dents into a gun.

Sure, a Thompson stock will probably incur a few dents during its lifetime but Id be VERY surprised to see the metal parts of any military weapon with hammer rash. Care of your weapon is drummed into every soldier and, even if they don't look after their weapons, there'll always be an NCO to ream you for mistreating the rifle.

If a rifle does incur deep scratches or dents it's likely to have come from a single incident (such as taking cover on a hard surface or squeezing through a tight space) and so the scratches would look uniform. I mean they'd be in the same area and running in the same direction.

Personally, I'd suggest the use of a coarse file to apply this sort of thing (if you must) to ensure the scratches all run the same way.

Seeing a bunch of scratches and dents all running in different directions and different places just looks like somebodys kicked the gun for a mile.

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First a note: It would be easy and somewhat 'logical' I suppose to just bang and scrape the heck out of a metal replica to achieve the use and abuse that a rifle or handgun would receive over it's service life, however if you research weapons pictures that have been used or are being used in the field, you will seldom see guns that appear as though they have just been run through a wood chipper and put back in the gun rack. While 'scratches' are certainly a part of natural wear, what is more common is the fading or 'silvering' effect that comes from the greases and oils from hands or equipment used with these weapons. Leather holsters rub and wear down corners and leading edges from use- The acidic oils on our hands or faces will interact with gun metals and woods to change the appearance over time. Sand and grit from 'Desert Climates' and areas wink.gif really do a number on guns. Gouges and scratches are generally limited to the 'protruding' edges of a rifle such as the leading edge of an M16 gunsight, or the casing bulge, etc.

 

The best advice for anyone wishing to create this effect on their gun is to start by searching images of their particular weapon on the web, find as many pictures as you can to get an idea of how 'real guns' age and wear, then decide how much wear is appropriate for your weapon. Consult this guide for tips on how I did it- As usual feel free to ask me questions.

 

Let your creativity flow and have fun!

 

 

 

PM'd :D

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

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Thanks guys!

 

I can't tell you how much I appreciate all the support! As I said in the series, I hope this helps you guys to personalize your replicas and add a realistic weathered and aged appearance to them.

 

Before I started doing this to my guns I was always kind of 'afraid' of them so-to-speak. I handled them very gingerly and carefully and would get very bummed out if something broke, fell off or otherwise went away from the 'brand-new' appearance- then the light kind of went off over my head :busted_cop:

 

"No matter how much I baby this gun, it is going to eventually become worn and used"

 

I then began doing more and more research on real steel guns and noticed that 'Hey, these don't look brand new either!'

 

Then the last thing that dawned on me was seeing so many players on the 'battlefield' all decked out in amazing, authentic kit. Some doing modern MilForce or LE loadouts, some like me, doing authentic WWII load out, or even Vietnam era- And it struck me as odd that they would give the 'n00b's all kinds of hell when they showed up in their brand-new repro uniforms-

 

"Hey newb! Get that uniform dirty!!" or "Your too clean!"

 

But each one of their weapons looked like mine- just fresh out of the box- I thought "well that's not right" If I'm going to wear in and dirty up my expensive uniform, then the gun has to be at least as important to having an authentic impression, right?

 

So I started playing around with this and that- painting this one or taking steel wool to that one, usually my older, broken or marginal guns to see what I could create.

 

This whole process taught me quite a bit- First it has taught me quite a lot about real-steel guns, but the better part is it has taught me quite a bit about Airsoft guns and how they work, don't work, or could possibly work better- I used to send any issue I had with a gun out to my local qualified gunsmiths- I no longer need to do that as much. Other than the nitty-gritty business of mech-box repair, I now feel confident that I can handle anything that happens with my weapons.

 

One of the other reasons I got into this was seeing the amazing Custom gun work done by friends of mine over on the WW2AA forums, custom KAR98's in real stocks, PPSH's, M1919's etc., and the excellent work on the UK WWII Airsoft site- I was very intimidated and felt I would never be able to do that :unsure: but I figured I could handle making the gun I did have more realistic. However now, after learning by doing, most of the fear of Airsoft guns has vanished.

 

 

 

Anyway, I hope the moral of the story is, whether your into "Period Airsoft" like me or just like to throw on some MOLLE gear and a Shemagh and a ball cap and go PMC, the gun they are using would not be fresh and clean and without a little bit of wear and abuse in real life, so why not add that dimension to your Airsoft equipment.

 

As stated in the series, I want to add some disclaimers here: First, as with deciding on what kit to wear, DO YOUR RESEARCH! I can't stress that enough- It's one thing to say 'Hey, that looks cool!I'm going to weather my gun! and it's a completely different thing to tie it onto the back of an ATV and drag it all over hell and gone- or run rampant with a sander- Ultimately it is your property and who am I to tell you what to do, :P But if it's a 'Realistic' effect you are going for, the place to start is in weapons books or on the internet doing research of your weapons system to see what the real ones look like with use.

 

Second, Airsoft weapons and kit are called "Toys" yet, they are often some of the most expensive 'investments' you (or your parents ;) ) make- Please use caution and good common sense when embarking on a weathering project- this goes along with the DO YOUR RESEARCH caution, I would hate to see your $400 dollar AK reduced to scrap by an overzealous out-of-control dremel that would cause you to regret the effort.

 

 

 

Thanks again Ladies and Gents, don't hesitate to contact me with any questions!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

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