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The A&K M249 Review


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No problem!

 

Although thank you for your comments as i now know how to lock the barrel in :D

 

Also just to point out, the whole gun is mid/low quality steel, the only part of the weapon that is plastic that shouldn't be is the barrel cover frame that is plastic. Also people taking plugs at the weight of the A&K M249 might want to take a look at the weight of the real para:

 

6.88 kg (15.16 lb) empty

10.02 kg (22.08 lb) loaded

 

 

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Excellent review, and very good input from others as well. That means you too, Hillslam!

 

I just bought mine, and bolted a G&P M249 ranger fore grip on as the first modification. That alone made a big difference to the ergonomics, and I no longer have to hold the flimsy (flimsy even after tightening) handguard. The ranger fore grip allows you to retain the bipods as well. Wicked! The G&P grip is clearly a better polymer and the bottom hatch spring is twice as thick. You can really tell A&K cut some corners, but I can't complain for the price.

 

I'll be shoving a large battery into the boxmag, or possibly buy a MAG canvas ammo bag and see what the options are in there. I'm a bit concerned about the rigidity of the front part, because it's just two mild steel pieces that act as a spine. Mounting the battery elsewhere would allow reinforcements in that area, although just hard-bolting the outer barrel in place may suffice.

 

A G&P dummy cartridge belt is coming up as well, and I'm still trying to decide between practical (Milspex Aimpoint) or cool (ELCAN) for optics.

 

I can't be arsed to re-read the whole thread, but I recall a mention of the threading being right-hand? Well, at least mine is definitely left-handed.

 

-Sale

Edited by Sale
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A G&P dummy cartridge belt is coming up as well, and I'm still trying to decide between practical (Milspex Aimpoint) or cool (ELCAN) for optics.

-Sale

 

this is airsoft - you know full well cool is better than practical. ;)

Edited by screamin_weasel
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Just a tip for anyone fixing their boxmag:

 

When you open her up, do NOT drop the spool containing the coiled spring. I had to open mine up as the spring end wasn't being gripped, preventing feeding. This was becauase the spring end had snapped the retaining piece of plastic. Fortunately there's another slot you can use, but removing dropping that spool caused the spring to shoot across the room (and it's no fun coiling the thing back in, I can tell you).

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FarEast, that review is too good! My friend wanted info on this gun... answered all of the many, many questions he had, thank you very much for taking the time to create such an extremely in depth and well informed review :) Needless to say, he's just waiting for his UKARA membership and one of these'll be ordered quicktime.

 

Decimus.

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A 9.6 volt large battery drops right in the ammo box. If anything, you may have to add padding to keep it from wiggling around.

 

The wiring I'm planning to feed from the feed tray, under a mock ammo belt, to the area where the other tubes go into the ammo box in the first place. I haven't done this yet but I don't foresee anything special about it either.

 

-Sale

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Just going to add now - Was with my M249, with a handsfree approach (My M249 MK.2 was on a sling), when all of a sudden, the sling snapped and the M249 fell from me! Foolish I was, But just to say, however, what a excellently built weapon. Yes, it did only have about 1 metre drop (if that!), and after test firing and putting the barrel cover back on, the gun was as good as new, suprisingly for a Chinese replica - A&K!

 

Only time will tell though... Unfortunately, on my MK.2, i have notices some rust appearing just beneath the gap on the cocking slide. Anyone else sharing this problem? My rifle has not been exposed to the 'outside' world yet, and no liquids or gaseous things have been on the gun. Anyone have any ideas and suggestions about what to do? Although a bit of damage can actually add character the gun, implementing realism, not many guns get rusty.

 

Thanks.

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I've noticed some rust in certain areas on my para, particularly under the bolt handle run and also inside the flash hider, as well on the trigger guard.

Either sand it down and respray if possible I guess, or just leave it and hope it doesn't progress too far !

 

I haven't had mine outside yet either, I guess they weren't 100% rust free when painted and off it went from there.

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i dont know if anyone can answer this but basically im planning on getting one of the MAG cloth box mags with a pressure switch and a 9.6v battery in it, these apparently fit the A&K, now what i want to know is how easy do people think it would be to wire the para up to run off the battery in the box and use the guns trigger to control the feeding of the box mag? or am i just thinking fancifully here?

cheers

millest

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i dont know if anyone can answer this but basically im planning on getting one of the MAG cloth box mags with a pressure switch and a 9.6v battery in it, these apparently fit the A&K, now what i want to know is how easy do people think it would be to wire the para up to run off the battery in the box and use the guns trigger to control the feeding of the box mag? or am i just thinking fancifully here?

cheers

millest

 

Others on here have said that they're not very good quality and that the CA 1200 round auto-winding mag is a far better option, albeit more expensive, this is only hearsay, I have not even seen a MAG box mag myself. Anyone with real hands on experience of it here?

 

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Ive owned both the MAG and CA brand cloth mags, needless to say I now only have my CA mag :D . The mag brand does hold more ammo, and people have modded it to hold a large battery inside it, but I found it to be a complete PITA to load the thing and to press the pressure switch every 40-50 rounds or so. My personal opinion is the CA 1200 round mag is better, you can always use a PEQ box or a battery sling to hold your battery on the para.

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I tip my hat to Fareast. I purchased my A&K 249 Para with much trepidation, but sure enough Fareast's review pointed out all the potential problems. A few hours of PM and I took my new support gun to the field today and put 8,000 rounds down range in some very hard game conditions. Everything worked like a charm.

 

Thank you again Fareast, your review has to be a boon to A&K also as it points out needed areas of improvement for their second version. Once all the bugs are out I HIGHLY RECCOMEND this AEG. :)

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Yes, cocking handle works as per real. I think I am going to modify mine (in some way????) to make it much harder to pull the cocking handle back. No, the cocking handle is not loose or anything, just that I want to simulate it in a realistic manner, the real cocking handle is a bit heavier to pull back! ¬ Quite a bit!

 

Courtesy of Component-Shop.co.uk, this is how the [new type] standard battery measures (the one supplied with the gun).

 

300_8vp1400afp-h-dims.jpg

 

I think really your best bet for a battery in the MK.2 Full Stock would be this: http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageA...amp;ProdID=1962

This is a nunchuck style battery with a mini type connector, so no modifying needed for the MK.2. Looking at the dimensions of the stock itself (only ~weighing~it~up), it seems very hard to fit a large type bat in. Modification to the Bat or the Stock would be required for a large type battery.

 

Unless anyone with the MK.2 can share their expertise and give some info?

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