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The A&K M249 Review


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My original bipod still doing well, been to 3 skirmishes and still locks in place, stays in place on the whole and legs extend in place without slipping down out of posititon as some have mentioned. Played with extensively in and around house & workshop and Ive really jacked up the weight on it to boot. It does make a lot of difference in wear and tear on mine as it has support from the pintle brackets that restrict the guns tilt by pushing against the upper part of the bipod as it tilts. However its not great, metal is wearing, itll probably need replacing or repairing soon.

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XxDODSONxX, wouldn't really know about that as I have the MK.2... But I'll try and see what I can find!

 

Also, on the battery subject, I have found this website, British - Based (which is what I could do with!) that does batteries, quite cheap too... http://www.vapextech.co.uk/acatalog/airsoft.html

 

I am currently debating whether I should get the 9.6v 3300mAh Nunchuck battery or the 10.8v Nunchuck battery. They are priced at £22 and £25, and both have free-post. [Yes, although they have a DEAN connector you can ask to get it changed to Tamiya on checkout...] I do have the MK.2, but as many of us know a Large type won't fit, also a Nunchuck battery would be great for my SPR, when I get a Crane or Modstock for it... Basically I'm looking for the faster firerate [still using the stock battery! :S], and although the 10.8 would probably give this over the 9.6v, I've heard that there are problems with the Boxmag feeding with the faster RoF. Also, this higher quality 9.6v battery should give a quicker RoF over the Mini battery that came with the gun, because of the higher quality? If i did get the 10.8, I would definately go for 2-6round bursts... Like I always do!

 

Any advice given here would be great, many thanks, Gaffa.

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Is there anyone that might provide instructions for the wireing of the battery to the boxmag on the para. I just need to know how to rewire the hardware attached to the mechbox so that the wire is longer making me able to stuff the fuse and battery in the boxmag. Or if there is a better way you know of let me know. Thanks

 

No need for a rewire. Just buy an extension cable, connect on to the original point, leave the fuse in the foregrip and pass the now longer cable through the square hole underneath the fore grip and then through the box mag small filling hole on the top.

 

Job done, have a large 9.6 in mine and it works a treat.

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No need for a rewire. Just buy an extension cable, connect on to the original point, leave the fuse in the foregrip and pass the now longer cable through the square hole underneath the fore grip and then through the box mag small filling hole on the top.

 

Job done, have a large 9.6 in mine and it works a treat.

 

 

Hey Thanks Paulb i am going to my local raido shack and see if i can find an extenshion or make one.

 

Hey i just got my m249. The review shows the front end of the barrel unscrewing. I have tryied to unscrew mine and i just cant get it to unscrew. Would it have thread locker in it or something. Anyone got any ideas or going though the same proplems.

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Hey Thanks Paulb i am going to my local raido shack and see if i can find an extenshion or make one.

 

Hey i just got my m249. The review shows the front end of the barrel unscrewing. I have tryied to unscrew mine and i just cant get it to unscrew. Would it have thread locker in it or something. Anyone got any ideas or going though the same proplems.

Did you get a A&K M249 straight from HK or a rebranded echo A&K? Out of the factory there is none, Echo like to have a fiddle and may well have put some threadlock in there.

 

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Hey Thanks Paulb i am going to my local raido shack and see if i can find an extenshion or make one.

 

Hey i just got my m249. The review shows the front end of the barrel unscrewing. I have tryied to unscrew mine and i just cant get it to unscrew. Would it have thread locker in it or something. Anyone got any ideas or going though the same proplems.

 

My flashider was loose when i removed the 249 from the box.

 

I fitted a tracer unit to it last night and lit up the sky!

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Actually, large batteries do fit the Mk2, take the stock off, slide the battery in from the gun end, put the stock back on.

 

Job done, I've a 4300mah 8.4 in mine, 9.6's fit as well, I've tested it.

 

 

My 4/5 SC battery from some chinese airsoft gun which i bought 3 years back...

 

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r286/Gaffa07/Photo392.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r286/Gaffa07/Photo391.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r286/Gaffa07/Photo390.jpg

 

It simply was not going in.... Still wondering which would give the better firerate - 9.6 or 10.8 (considering i still want the mag to feed properly...) nunchuck battery (3300mAh each, from the website I posted in my previous post.! ). Need this battery to fit in a Crane stock for my SPR I have too, will a 10v fit?

 

Many thanks, Gaffa07.

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At last done reading this topic. Have a few questions though:

 

Nozzle: In order to replace the nozzle I need to buy one for M4A1 and file off 2mm from the front end of it?

Internals: All V2 internals work, right?

Element upgrade parts: I think that I shall upgrade the gun with elements FTK. Will it be too much for it to handle with a high speed one, M100 spring and 9,6V battery? Any comments on elements high speed FTK? What RPS will it have? Is it enough with a standard FTK?

Stock spring: I remember reading that the stock spring is M140, but it only shoots 400fps. Is this true? Will it shoot ~350 FPS with M100 spring and new o-ring?

 

Great review though :D

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Nozzle: In order to replace the nozzle I need to buy one for M4A1 and file off 2mm from the front end of it?

Internals: All V2 internals work, right?

 

I have these same questions as well. I thought I saw that all internal parts for these are the same as a Ver.2 takes. So I would think the nozzle would be the same as well. I just want to make sure before I buy a bore up kit.

 

Also I am wanting to know if the CA249 hop-up unit takes a hop-up nub the same as all othe hop-up units, and not like the A&K/ECHO1 M249 hop-up does?

 

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My flashider was loose when i removed the 249 from the box.

 

I fitted a tracer unit to it last night and lit up the sky!

 

couple of questions on this - was it a para version of the saw? if so was it a tm tracer unit (pref the new one)? if yes to those how did it fit with regards to the gas tube below the flash hider?

cheers

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  • 1 month later...

Someone asked me for pics on another thread (didnt he believe me?).

The good thing abot this battery is that you do not have to put any wires through the box mag it to have a large capacity bat, and that you can use this very good battery in your M249, craned M4, almost any full stock AEG (AKs, M16, etc.). And if you decide to go with a RAS, you can still slide it into your box mag (some may prefer the box mag to balance the gun a bit, as it does get a bit front heavy).

 

1) Let the fuse and connector hanging out.

Photo_0132.jpg

 

2) Slide the two large cell rods in; one will lay higher as the other one, as the dont fit horizontally.

Photo_0133.jpg

 

3) Lay the short cell rod on the lower sitting long rod, connect to the AEG and close the lower handguard. Dont worry that the short rod, the connector and the fuse dont sit fludh: there is still room enough in the handguard. Done.

Photo_0135.jpg

Photo_0136.jpg

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I bought the Para version a few weeks ago and I have to say it's awesome for the price. I can't compare it with TOP or CA since I haven't used either of them, but surely this is better than the Star. Hell, this is cheaper and full metal (apart from the inner heat shield...) and works fine. Changed the hop up sleeve on mine before even testing, but that's the only thing I did to the internals. So out of box with the sleeve changed, it fires ok. Haven't chrono'd it, but I think it's around 110m/s with 0.2g BBs.

 

There are a few problems with it. The first being that the feed cover on mine doesn't lock in completely, the left side stays open (it doesn't open itself though). The second one is that the feed cover doesn't pop up when I open it. It's supposed to do that, like an AKSU, right? I tried to fix it by adding some pre-tension on the spring, but it just bends before it gets strong enough.

 

Both of these problems are probably unique and at least the first one is easily solved by some careful filing.

 

PS. some parts are loose, but having played around (not actually used) with a few TOP guns, I'm not disappointed. Besides it's not like they aren't fixable with just tape and/or washers and *suitcases*.

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I've just finished looking around them. I'm going to buy the bits to do it. I will lop the small male connector off, and fit a large one instead to the stock wires. That will then connect to a length of wire with a large female at one end, and a mini male connector (CS's own charger convertor). Said length of wire will allow me to use the mini type battery on a large connection, as well as charge it.

 

Who has purchased connectors from component shop? Do they come with the contacts or do they need to be brought along side the connector?

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