Jump to content

Misc Custom Machined Parts


dobey

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 626
  • Created
  • Last Reply

The camera I have is a piece of ###### (Christmas present). Almost all the pics I take with it are all blurry, even on a tripod. Have a new one coming now and will post up more pics as soon as it gets here. Just did a bunch of anodizing today. The black is odd, it seems to age a little starting out with a purple hue right after I seal it and then over a few hours it gets darker and darker till it is very black. Anyone have any experience with this, I am using RIT powder Dye.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1: Only n00bs use a milling cutter mounted in a chuck. Get an auto locking milling chuck. Worth EVERY penny!

2: If you havent got enough space between the cutter and the table, get some finger collets.

3: Get a piece of thick cardboard and cut it into a T shape, so you can get the chips out of the T slots.

4: If you need to cut large diameter holes, dont bother trying to bodge it using a rotary table, get a boring head. Far easier to set up, and far more accurate.

5: Fly cutters are far better for milling large flat surfaces than using multiple passes with an end mill.

 

THX QQexdera - All good stuff, pity I dont understand about 50% of it, a mill should make more sense of this when I get one. Not so much as new thread coming up but possibly a new airsoft engineers/manufacturing category.

 

The camera I have is a piece of ###### (Christmas present). Almost all the pics I take with it are all blurry, even on a tripod. Have a new one coming now and will post up more pics as soon as it gets here. Just did a bunch of anodizing today. The black is odd, it seems to age a little starting out with a purple hue right after I seal it and then over a few hours it gets darker and darker till it is very black. Anyone have any experience with this, I am using RIT powder Dye.

Great form on the vertical grip, and lovely knurling, if this was back in the old days and we were a bit closer Id be on your doorstep refusing to move until you took me in as apprentice. Gaaaaaaw I want a Mill. Cant advise you on your professional dye choice, I use woolworths clothes dye which gives me a more interesting result, probably not what youre after.

 

Looking at the ammount of interest In this post and you being a manufacturer I can see that you are fairly busy but any chance of a quick walkthrough on your anodising procedure? Or even better a walkthrough on making that vertical grip would make for a very enjoyable/educational bit of learning.

Thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites

My anodizing setup is fairly simple. I have 7 one gallon buckets set up on a bench with an exhaust fan for the fumes (although they are minor at this size setup).

 

First bucket has an etching solution (just drain cleaner that etches aluminum)

 

Second is a bucket of distilled water for cleaning off the etching solution.

 

Third is the Sulfuric acid and distilled water solution. This is where the anodizing happens with a 12v 10 amp batter charger (negative to the aluminum plate at the bottom and positive to the part)

 

Fourth is a bucket of distilled water and baking soda to neutralize the acid and clean the part after anodizing.

 

Five, six, and seven are different colors of dye and distilled water. Just dunk the part in the color for about the same time it was in the acid. I use a small fish tank compressor to agitate the tanks and keep them mixxed up while in process. The battery charger was the most expensive part at around $45.00 the rest was under $10.00.

 

After the part is dyed just boil it for about 10 min in water to seal it and you are done. It is really very simple once you have it setup. When I get the new camera (should come tomorrow) I will take pics of the process, and a walk through on making a part.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Some more stuff, sorry for the crappy web-cam pics but the new camera isn't here yet :( KJW Mk1 I made a new aluminum outer barrel with threaded end and a thread cap for when the silencer is not in use (it needs to be anodized still). Also made some new grips from Wenge wood which I think turned out nice. Couple threaded end caps that fit stock barrel (PM me if you want one of these).

 

kjw11.jpg

 

kjw5.jpg

 

kjw4.jpg

 

kjw9.jpg

 

kjw10.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

np9070.jpg

This goes in the tool holder and is simply wound onto the item to be knurled as it's spinning in the chuck.

The hardened 'teeth' on the rollers form the knurling marks on the surface and you wind the tool as far as you want along the piece.

Link to post
Share on other sites
ive been looking for a 14mm CCW tap and die set. havnt been able to fine one though. if any one knows where to get one please tell me. i need to make a threaded barrel for one of my projects

Depends where in the world you are really.

In the UK they're pretty rare, and therefore expensive.

I only found two listed while I was searching for one, one on e-bay for £82, and the one I got through a local engineering supplier which was £52...just for the one tap (second cut) :o

In comparison, I also got a set of three 14mm CW taps (first & second cut, & plug) for £20.

 

The first thing I used the CCW tap for;

G36silencer1c.jpg

Suppressor2.jpg

 

I made this a couple of years ago when I first got into Airsoft (Oct05);

ICSMP5tappet2.jpg

 

And these more recently;

BFGloaderA.jpg

9mm adaptor for BFG and priming tools that slip into the adaptor and cap (which are used as the 'handle' instead of the original 'ball-handled' tool)

 

Made this piston and cylinder set for a friend's UTG M324;

Assy1.jpg

 

And turned up this piece to fix the infamous Thompson barrel weakness on mine;

M1A1c.jpg

 

Did a similar thing on my ICS MP5;

Barrelsupport1.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
Depends where in the world you are really.

In the UK they're pretty rare, and therefore expensive.

I only found two listed while I was searching for one, one on e-bay for £82, and the one I got through a local engineering supplier which was £52...just for the one tap (second cut) :o

In comparison, I also got a set of three 14mm CW taps (first & second cut, & plug) for £20.

 

 

Have you tried Tracytools ?

 

http://www.tracytools.com/

 

I dont have their catalogue here at work, but I seem to remember they charge 100% more for CCW and their 14mm x 1 is only £6

Link to post
Share on other sites

Some new stuff:

 

side1.jpg

 

side3.jpg

 

Rail1.jpg

 

part1side2.jpg

 

part1side3.jpg

 

black-008.jpg

 

black-010.jpg

 

I started etching with pure Sodium Hydroxide and I am getting much better results with the black dye as you can see in the last part there, the black is very dark and rich where before it could have a slight purple tint to it.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

PM sent. On another note here are some sneak peaks at the new m4 mag conversion block for the ak47:

 

ak4.jpg

 

ak3.jpg

 

ak2.jpg

 

ak1.jpg

 

more to come as it gets closer to being finished, I will toss up a video showing the switch from ak mag to m16 mag.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Little update with some newer stuff.

 

An extended inner barrel for a pistol:

 

Concept

 

inner.jpg

 

finished part next to stock part

 

barrel-002.jpg

 

 

A Compensator for a glock (next to a real steel compensator)

 

derringer-010.jpg

 

And all anodized up

 

comp1.jpg

 

Aug Flash Hider made in steel:

 

flash-001.jpg

 

flash-002.jpg

 

Custom G36 flash hider

 

 

twister1-001.jpg

 

twister1-002.jpg

 

an M4 concept flash hider

 

m4twist1.jpg

 

m4twist2.jpg

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very, very nice Dobey.

Nothing makes me smile like a lump of freshly machined Alloy :P

I got some new cutting inserts for my lathe tools and a new tool-holder.

Made these recently, spacer kits for the STAR L85 piston mod (Fit standard AEG (16-tooth) pistons instead of the long ones).

They're Delrin™...

L85pistonmod1o.jpg

And the first one I made for a friend's L85, in Alloy...

L85pistonmod1b.jpg

 

What's your technique for doing the twisted flutes/slots Dobey.

Do you have a lathe with a milling attachment or is it a mill with a rotary table/other?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a lathe/mill combo that I used on the original parts in this thread, but recently picked up a mini stand alone mill. The twisted flute parts are made with a rotary table mounted on that mill at an angle.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It came with a couple sets of plates but I haven't used them yet. The table is marked all the way around in degrees, so far I have just used them, making cuts every 120 if 3 or every 90 if 4 etc, if that makes sense.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.