-=OGGY=- Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 Wow that looks great! (top picture) Now I really want to see a better pic of it in black. Link to post Share on other sites
dobey Posted January 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 The camera I have is a piece of ###### (Christmas present). Almost all the pics I take with it are all blurry, even on a tripod. Have a new one coming now and will post up more pics as soon as it gets here. Just did a bunch of anodizing today. The black is odd, it seems to age a little starting out with a purple hue right after I seal it and then over a few hours it gets darker and darker till it is very black. Anyone have any experience with this, I am using RIT powder Dye. Link to post Share on other sites
cafemondo Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 1: Only n00bs use a milling cutter mounted in a chuck. Get an auto locking milling chuck. Worth EVERY penny! 2: If you havent got enough space between the cutter and the table, get some finger collets. 3: Get a piece of thick cardboard and cut it into a T shape, so you can get the chips out of the T slots. 4: If you need to cut large diameter holes, dont bother trying to bodge it using a rotary table, get a boring head. Far easier to set up, and far more accurate. 5: Fly cutters are far better for milling large flat surfaces than using multiple passes with an end mill. THX QQexdera - All good stuff, pity I dont understand about 50% of it, a mill should make more sense of this when I get one. Not so much as new thread coming up but possibly a new airsoft engineers/manufacturing category. The camera I have is a piece of ###### (Christmas present). Almost all the pics I take with it are all blurry, even on a tripod. Have a new one coming now and will post up more pics as soon as it gets here. Just did a bunch of anodizing today. The black is odd, it seems to age a little starting out with a purple hue right after I seal it and then over a few hours it gets darker and darker till it is very black. Anyone have any experience with this, I am using RIT powder Dye. Great form on the vertical grip, and lovely knurling, if this was back in the old days and we were a bit closer Id be on your doorstep refusing to move until you took me in as apprentice. Gaaaaaaw I want a Mill. Cant advise you on your professional dye choice, I use woolworths clothes dye which gives me a more interesting result, probably not what youre after. Looking at the ammount of interest In this post and you being a manufacturer I can see that you are fairly busy but any chance of a quick walkthrough on your anodising procedure? Or even better a walkthrough on making that vertical grip would make for a very enjoyable/educational bit of learning. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
dobey Posted January 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 My anodizing setup is fairly simple. I have 7 one gallon buckets set up on a bench with an exhaust fan for the fumes (although they are minor at this size setup). First bucket has an etching solution (just drain cleaner that etches aluminum) Second is a bucket of distilled water for cleaning off the etching solution. Third is the Sulfuric acid and distilled water solution. This is where the anodizing happens with a 12v 10 amp batter charger (negative to the aluminum plate at the bottom and positive to the part) Fourth is a bucket of distilled water and baking soda to neutralize the acid and clean the part after anodizing. Five, six, and seven are different colors of dye and distilled water. Just dunk the part in the color for about the same time it was in the acid. I use a small fish tank compressor to agitate the tanks and keep them mixxed up while in process. The battery charger was the most expensive part at around $45.00 the rest was under $10.00. After the part is dyed just boil it for about 10 min in water to seal it and you are done. It is really very simple once you have it setup. When I get the new camera (should come tomorrow) I will take pics of the process, and a walk through on making a part. Link to post Share on other sites
dobey Posted January 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 Some more stuff, sorry for the crappy web-cam pics but the new camera isn't here yet KJW Mk1 I made a new aluminum outer barrel with threaded end and a thread cap for when the silencer is not in use (it needs to be anodized still). Also made some new grips from Wenge wood which I think turned out nice. Couple threaded end caps that fit stock barrel (PM me if you want one of these). Link to post Share on other sites
gundam2000 Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 very nice work. You mentioned the knurling tool. how does that work? Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 This goes in the tool holder and is simply wound onto the item to be knurled as it's spinning in the chuck. The hardened 'teeth' on the rollers form the knurling marks on the surface and you wind the tool as far as you want along the piece. Link to post Share on other sites
dobey Posted January 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 Yep, you have to have the right size part diameter for the tooth pattern though or else the pattern wont line up on a full rotation and it goes to ######. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted January 27, 2008 Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 ive been looking for a 14mm CCW tap and die set. havnt been able to fine one though. if any one knows where to get one please tell me. i need to make a threaded barrel for one of my projects Depends where in the world you are really. In the UK they're pretty rare, and therefore expensive. I only found two listed while I was searching for one, one on e-bay for £82, and the one I got through a local engineering supplier which was £52...just for the one tap (second cut) In comparison, I also got a set of three 14mm CW taps (first & second cut, & plug) for £20. The first thing I used the CCW tap for; I made this a couple of years ago when I first got into Airsoft (Oct05); And these more recently; 9mm adaptor for BFG and priming tools that slip into the adaptor and cap (which are used as the 'handle' instead of the original 'ball-handled' tool) Made this piston and cylinder set for a friend's UTG M324; And turned up this piece to fix the infamous Thompson barrel weakness on mine; Did a similar thing on my ICS MP5; Link to post Share on other sites
ruzzz Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 Depends where in the world you are really. In the UK they're pretty rare, and therefore expensive. I only found two listed while I was searching for one, one on e-bay for £82, and the one I got through a local engineering supplier which was £52...just for the one tap (second cut) In comparison, I also got a set of three 14mm CW taps (first & second cut, & plug) for £20. Have you tried Tracytools ? http://www.tracytools.com/ I dont have their catalogue here at work, but I seem to remember they charge 100% more for CCW and their 14mm x 1 is only £6 Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 Thanks for that link Ruzzz, I'll try them for a l/h die. Link to post Share on other sites
dobey Posted February 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 Some new stuff: I started etching with pure Sodium Hydroxide and I am getting much better results with the black dye as you can see in the last part there, the black is very dark and rich where before it could have a slight purple tint to it. Link to post Share on other sites
s85sss Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 would you be able to make a WA officer threaded 14mm barrel?From what i see i am pretty sure you can...In this case contact me by pm. Link to post Share on other sites
dobey Posted March 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2008 PM sent. On another note here are some sneak peaks at the new m4 mag conversion block for the ak47: more to come as it gets closer to being finished, I will toss up a video showing the switch from ak mag to m16 mag. Link to post Share on other sites
digger68 Posted March 7, 2008 Report Share Posted March 7, 2008 Thats really neat. Keep up the good work. Link to post Share on other sites
-FIDO- Posted March 9, 2008 Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 good work but oh my..poor little ak Link to post Share on other sites
PlasticMag Posted March 9, 2008 Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 Oh... Wow. Link to post Share on other sites
my_plague_666 Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 nifty mod there... sickening, but nifty Link to post Share on other sites
dobey Posted March 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 lol I agree it is fugly, the part is purely for a Mag compatibility issue. Link to post Share on other sites
dobey Posted March 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2008 Little update with some newer stuff. An extended inner barrel for a pistol: Concept finished part next to stock part A Compensator for a glock (next to a real steel compensator) And all anodized up Aug Flash Hider made in steel: Custom G36 flash hider an M4 concept flash hider Link to post Share on other sites
slo_one Posted March 27, 2008 Report Share Posted March 27, 2008 Nice work. Please keep posting all those neat flashiders. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 Very, very nice Dobey. Nothing makes me smile like a lump of freshly machined Alloy I got some new cutting inserts for my lathe tools and a new tool-holder. Made these recently, spacer kits for the STAR L85 piston mod (Fit standard AEG (16-tooth) pistons instead of the long ones). They're Delrin™... And the first one I made for a friend's L85, in Alloy... What's your technique for doing the twisted flutes/slots Dobey. Do you have a lathe with a milling attachment or is it a mill with a rotary table/other? Link to post Share on other sites
dobey Posted March 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 I have a lathe/mill combo that I used on the original parts in this thread, but recently picked up a mini stand alone mill. The twisted flute parts are made with a rotary table mounted on that mill at an angle. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted March 29, 2008 Report Share Posted March 29, 2008 I should be getting a small mill in the next few months, can't wait Do you use dividing plates with your rotary table or just use rough counting on the turning handle...if you know what I mean Link to post Share on other sites
dobey Posted March 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2008 It came with a couple sets of plates but I haven't used them yet. The table is marked all the way around in degrees, so far I have just used them, making cuts every 120 if 3 or every 90 if 4 etc, if that makes sense. Link to post Share on other sites
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