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Scope mount for pistols


alyaspogi

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Hey tech gurus i'm planning to build a race pistol using my old sv my problem is how to install a scope mount how to drill to install the screws any info here?

 

 

thanks!

Do you have the rail already? If you do, put it on the gun the wy you want it to be when youre finished, and with a pencil mark the holes where the screws will be. Then just drill the holes where you marked them (Sorry, cant help with the drilling) and screw the screws. Be sure not to overtighten them, since if you mes the threads up, you will not be able to put your rail anymore.

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Do you have the rail already? If you do, put it on the gun the wy you want it to be when youre finished, and with a pencil mark the holes where the screws will be. Then just drill the holes where you marked them (Sorry, cant help with the drilling) and screw the screws. Be sure not to overtighten them, since if you mes the threads up, you will not be able to put your rail anymore.

 

 

thanks i'll try to be carefull! :)

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you need to drill and tap (thread) the hole on your frame to mount a scope mount. .. depending on the type of scope mount you want to use.

 

some items you could use (but not mandatory):

 

drill bit, tap, centerpunch, scribe or pencil, drill press, drill press vice, milling machine

 

keep in mind that when your drilling and tapping holes into metal. . it is extremely important that your holes in the frame are concentric with scope mount holes. Otherwise. .you will not be able to mount the scope mount properly. A milling machine is essential in real gunsmithing and recommended. If that's not available, then a drill press with an X-Y table will do. .if not. .then you have no choice than to do it by hand. .

 

If you're doing it by hand, use these procedures as a guideline:

 

1) place scope mount over your SV frame. . used scribe or pencil to mark the holes, remove scope mount

 

2) with the centerpunch, locate the center (of the marked hole) on ONE hole. .

 

3) drill and tap that ONE hole. . attach your scope mount with the set screw (or whatever machine screw you plan on using)

 

4) now that you have ONE hole done. . it will be easier to center (keep concentric) the remaining holes. Use your scope mount holes as your guide when drilling your next hole(s).

 

If you don't attach the screw and secure the scope mount down. .you risk having your scope mount "wander" off center and alignment. Fastening the first screw down will allow your scope mount to maintain the position for the next holes.

 

In real steel. . it's very important on how you mount the scope mount. Depending on brand of mount you get can depend on how you mount it. .for instance, one of the mounts I use on my WA Speedcomp II . .I have to mount the scope mount with a 2 degree forward cant. . .

 

take your time and don't rush it .. you won't be able to cover up the mistake/hole if your hole is off-center from your mount.. .

 

good luck!

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2) with the centerpunch, locate the center (of the marked hole) on ONE hole. .

 

Rather than a centerpunch use a transfer punch. You get these in a set of different diameters and they transfer the center of a pre drilled hole. Complete sets on ebay are cheap. do a search :D

 

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Cleaner, have you ever mounted an optic rail on a single stack 1911? I am thinking about completing the race look on my PGC Delta Elite.

 

It's the same as mounting a scope mount to the double stack STI/SVI series pistols, you still need to be very careful with what you're doing. Another thing to remember, always grind the mounting screws flush to the inside of the frame, otherwise your pistol won't function properly, as the recoil spring/guide will get caught up on them.

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Cleaner, have you ever mounted an optic rail on a single stack 1911? I am thinking about completing the race look on my PGC Delta Elite.

 

Never. . .just don't see a whole lot single stacks using optics. .for instance, in IPSC, you have 5 divisions right? open, standard, modified, production and revolver. .standard and production divisions do not permit electronic optics. .but with open class, you can .. and since you'll be required to carry at least 40 rnds on the course. . single stackers aren't as efficient if you have to reload more and carry more mags on your belt. .. .thus, double stackers are mostly used (with optics).

 

I have seen single stack scope mounts that mount to the frame as well as those that mount directly on top of the slide. I don't care for the look myself (well, unless it's a compact 1911 w/ a Doctor sight). .I think 1911s are more for IDPA and tactical shooting with iron sights only.

 

With that said. . .if you're mounting to a single stack frame. .you just need to make sure you have the right length screws (or modify them) since there's very limited material to tap into the frame vs. a wide body frame. .you don't want your screws obstructing the pathway of the slide and recoil spring as they move through the dustcover. (as whitedingo stated)

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Rather than a centerpunch use a transfer punch. You get these in a set of different diameters and they transfer the center of a pre drilled hole. Complete sets on ebay are cheap. do a search :D

 

right. . .I'm just offering a suggestion to those who have limited tools at their disposal. . realize that unless you've dabbled in the machining and manufacturing industry, you're not going to know what a transfer punch is. . . but a centerpunch. . most anyone who has drilled a hole w/ a hand drill know what a centerpunch is. . (spring loaded ones work the best of course).

 

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Yeah, I wonder about the available material to mount on. I like open/iron sights, but I don't have optics on any of my guns right now, and my racest build is a single stack. Need to think about this.

 

thus. . most of the single stack mounts I've seen are one-sided cantilevered mounts. . too many holes(double sided mount) in the frame/dustcover and you start compromising structure.

 

check this out for slide mount:

 

http://www.clarkcustomguns.com/clk1911pts.htm

 

many others out there like it. .

 

here's the Doctor mount for 1911 (Kimber):

 

http://www.speedshooter.com/product_detail.cfm?ID=DS1911

 

 

 

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right. . .I'm just offering a suggestion to those who have limited tools at their disposal. . realize that unless you've dabbled in the machining and manufacturing industry, you're not going to know what a transfer punch is. . . but a centerpunch. . most anyone who has drilled a hole w/ a hand drill know what a centerpunch is. . (spring loaded ones work the best of course).

 

I agree with most of what you are saying mr cleaner, but for the sake of spending less than $14 ( http://cgi.ebay.com/TRANSFER-PUNCH-SET-28P...1QQcmdZViewItem )

( its the same price in £'s as $'s in rip off Britian ) on a set of tools that you will use again, that will do the job properly and lessens the chance of ruining the frame should the hole be in wrong place, I thought it might be worth suggesting.

 

Its not as if I suggested he go get a fun CNC mill like the matsuura 5 axis :D (

).

 

I have been thinking its worth a thread for what tools are needed for a certain level of job, The sort of thing you see in certain car manuals, eg

 

simple maintainence = :rifle:

working on a gearbox = :rifle::rifle::rifle:

candyman style build = :rifle::rifle::rifle::rifle::rifle:

 

What do you think ? would that be worthwhile ? If so lets start a seperate thread and if it takes off the mods could make it a sticky.

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