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Guinness

DBoyi's KAR98k - WWII01

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great review, but imho you focused pretty much all on the looks and the action of the gun, and not enough about the performance. so far the only info i seem to find is that its not skirmishable because of the shells. but what about the range? accuracy at longer ranges? hopup? how far does the action eject the shells? not trying to be rude, just saying that im sure plenty of ppl are wondering like myself how decent does it perform as not to buy a gun like that 20 dollar springer sks that shoots 10 feet lol.

 

 

 

lol :D

 

I've had the gun 3 days,

 

...And it's snowing here ;)

 

 

 

 

I disassembled the gun yesterday to weather and age it (ahh you know how we do :rolleyes: ) so I have some pics of the components etc. I"ll be sharing today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

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lol :D

 

I've had the gun 3 days,

 

...And it's snowing here ;)

 

 

 

 

I disassembled the gun yesterday to weather and age it (ahh you know how we do :rolleyes: ) so I have some pics of the components etc. I"ll be sharing today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

ahh. yes i too saw the spare shells on rsov. what a joke almost 10 usd for two? and no stripper clips? rediculous. its snowing? heh i guess that can make seeing bbs diffiucult. if u get desprate just take a lawn chair and drape a colored blanket and shoot at that.

 

looking forward to the takedown page. let us know if it takes down like real steel. that would be awesome.

 

cheers.

 

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As promised, additional images from the KAR98k-

 

I disassembled the gun yesterday while the snow fell here in Colorado.

 

*As far as I know that gun breaks down as the real-steel K98 would- This is the first KAR I've owned and it's a Chinese clone at that, so......

 

Also, I did not strip the bolt down, I don't have any plans on upgrading the gun at this point, and didn't really fancy the idea of springs flying all over the place :P

 

And to answer an earlier question, when cycling the bolt, the extractor works fine, but the shells are not 'thrown' out of the receiver- no matter how fast I cycle or pull the bolt back they just drop to the right of the gun.

 

As stated in the main body of the review, now that I have stripped the gun down, the only real plastic is the Stock (duhhh) and the barrel band keeper- there is a bit of plastic here and there on the Bolt itself, but the gun mechanicals are 99% metal.

 

 

DBoyiKAR98Teardown_sml.png

Rifle Stripped Down to Components. Note- Trigger Guard and Magazine Well Will Come Out by Removing Recoil Lug...Just Didn't Wanna :P

 

 

K98ReceiverandBolt1_sml.png

Receiver, Barrel and Bolt Removed

 

 

K98BoltwithShell1a_sml.png

Bolt with 'Mounted' Shell

 

 

K98Bolt5_sml.png

K98 Bolt Face

 

 

K98Bolt1a_sml.png

K98 Bolt

 

 

K98Bolt2a_sml.png

K98 Bolt 2nd View

 

 

K98Bolt3a_sml.png

Hey Guess What This Is? :D

 

 

K98Hopup_sml.png

Hex Bolt is Hopup Adjustment

 

 

ShellCasingsCloseup_sml.png

Closeup of Shell Casings

 

 

KAR98MuzzleClose1a_sml.png

Mauser K98k Business End

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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And here is the results of yesterday's weathering and aging work-

 

 

 

KAR98kAged3a_sml.png

 

 

KAR98kAged4a_sml.png

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

 

 

 

 

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very nice pictures and weathering, and great review!!

do you think it's possible to add some sort of spring or real-steel shell extractor to make the shell shoot out more?

 

great review!!

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DAUUUUUMMM that is nice Guinness! I thought you switched it out for a real stock lol. But yeah need to know. And at the gun show found no stocks for it, but found M1 para stocks, reminded me of yours :P

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thanks so much for answering my questions. i also have a few more. if you find that the spring isnt upgradable could you show photos of the hopup and barrel. i was toying with the notion of buying one of thes guns and slapping a tanio koba twist barrel and see what the gun can do. and find out what the inner barrel length is.

 

but if your not up to taking the gun down that far thats cool. that idea was just circling around in my mind and i figure if fps and accuracy upgrades were a practical improvement perhaps the 5 round shell capasity can be overlooked by its performance.

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From that pic of the bolt it seems this uses an AEG spring and spring guide - so I imagine it should be upgradable.

 

Question is, though, what about the barrel? Does it take an AEG style barrel and hop-up?

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Looking at what you did to your Chinese Mossberg, I was expecting you to have painted the bolt black... I don't think real Kar98K bolts are chrome like that. :-p

 

 

Well I didn't worry about that for a couple of reasons-

 

1st, I ran into a bunch of images like the following that showed me that with wear the K98s fade to grey, and the Chinese bolt while very shiny, still has a dark cast-

 

 

pix1443430640.jpg

 

pix1366421015.jpg

 

pix1443431078.jpg

 

Granted, those are 60 years old, but still- that shows what color a bolt handle will become with use and abuse- I think it's splitting hairs to say 'Well those aren't shiny metal though'- It's a $80 dollar gun ;)

 

 

The second reason is the Shotgun has about 6 layers of paint on it- the K98 bolt and bolt handle are going to get a lot more use and wear than 99% of the surface of the shotgun, look at that last picture of the real-steel K98 bolt- no way paint would stay on there-

 

I think it's fine the way it is- now if the engineers at Boyi are listening, you could think about a darker black anodization- that would be welcomed :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

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there could be a legal nightmare tied to converting real guns to airsoft guns. i highly addvise against it and its very easy to overpack the powder and turn even plastic bb's into projectiles which could maim or even kill.

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Question. Do you have a hard time to pull the bolt forward wfter you pulled it back? mine wont do it when i have shells in it but whitout shells its easy as hell damn gun =)

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there could be a legal nightmare tied to converting real guns to airsoft guns. i highly addvise against it and its very easy to overpack the powder and turn even plastic bb's into projectiles which could maim or even kill.

 

the RS Mauser in question was fired with a Marushin 8mm .34g bb stuffed in a 7.92mm casing using only the primer

 

on the note of the Marushin version of this, Do not pull too hard on the bolt, you can rip it out of the receiver (atleast with the gas one)

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Those pics above me are not airsoft k98 pics are they? And to clear it up, the k98k and m48's did have a shiny bolt when they were new.

Really? I know yugo M48 bolts are left in the white, but german kar98 bolts were blued I though..?

 

Guinness, there's something birchwood-casey makes, I think its called alumblack or something like that and from what I understand its kinda like cold bluing for aluminum alloy's. If you want a little color but not wanting to paint it then maybe thats something worth looking into.

 

 

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Question. Do you have a hard time to pull the bolt forward wfter you pulled it back? mine wont do it when i have shells in it but whitout shells its easy as hell damn gun =)

 

 

Hey man- I saw your question on the other page, apologies for not responding yet- :unsure:

 

It sounds to me as though you have something blocking your breech or receiver- I took these pics, VERY poor quality so please excuse them, but perhaps you should disassemble the gun and have a look to see if there is something blocking the shells from going fully into the breech- ?

 

 

Hopupandbreech1.png

 

Hopupandbreech.png

 

receiverandbreech1.png

 

Again, apologies for quality of the images, I was trying to photograph the hop up and barrel, so the focus was not on the near side of the breech itself- It's almost painful for me to post these :o

 

Anyway, in the last photo thats a bit better, you see the ramp to the barrel itself where the shells are loaded into- that 'V' shaped mark there is the track the nose of the shells have made being loaded into the breech-

 

As I said I would tear the gun down to its components and see if there is something keeping the shells from going fully into the breech.

 

Also, this is the simple answer and I'm sure you have already looked, but the shells aren't bent are they?

 

 

Let me know what happens!

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

 

 

 

Also, when you guys say "White, you mean bare metal right?

 

 

 

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Question. Do you have a hard time to pull the bolt forward wfter you pulled it back? mine wont do it when i have shells in it but whitout shells its easy as hell damn gun =)

 

I just got mine today, and I find that if you have all 5 loaded, then the top one can be hard to strip off with the bolt most of the time.

 

There also seems to be a definite break-in period before things get running smoothly... watch for metal powder.. <_<

 

One of my cartridges also seemed to be missing an o-ring in the back, but that was an easy fix.

 

Overall though this gun definitely kicks *albatross* considering it only cost around 120 USD shipped.

 

Question for anyone: does your middle saftey position not work? The middle position is supposed to let you cycle the bolt but not pull the trigger.. mine doesn't seem to do that, but oh well, it's not a big deal.

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Also, when you guys say "White, you mean bare metal right?

 

Yep. "In the white" means bare steel. The bolt on WWII Mausers was blued though. Only post-war Yugos are white. The only parts "in the white" on a WWII K98 should be the butt plate and those large take-down discs in the side of the buttstock. Trust me, I've restored more genuine WWII mausers than you can shake a stick at :D

 

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Yep. "In the white" means bare steel. The bolt on WWII Mausers was blued though. Only post-war Yugos are white. The only parts "in the white" on a WWII K98 should be the butt plate and those large take-down discs in the side of the buttstock. Trust me, I've restored more genuine WWII mausers than you can shake a stick at :D

 

 

Ohhh so you're the guy in the UK with all the guns eh? :P

 

 

Cool- thanks again for the tips- I'll be going after the butt plate and discs this week- although I saw a real-steel plate on eBay... hmmmm

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

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