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Guinness

DBoyi's KAR98k - WWII01

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Heh, I shoot cotton swabs through my cheap springers when I want to annoy my roommates. It's a great extreme-CQB solution, since it could only hurt in the first six inches and it turns springer wars into a retarded version of Nerf fights. :P

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any developments guinness? i want a KAR98, but dont really want to buy a complete POS.

 

 

 

I cleaned all of the thick white lithium out and gave it a nice silicone spray wipe down, and repositioned the hop up rubber.

 

I just haven't had an opportunity to get outside and shoot it.

 

We got about a ft of snow between Christmas and yesterday here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

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I know I'm knee deep in projects now, but I'm becoming more and more attracted to buying one myself and make it into a skirmishable piece.

Firstly, as its easy enough to remove the internal magazine from the gun, would you think it feasible to custom build a new magazine (easy detachable or not) that holds bbs instead of shells? This would eliminate the "wheres my brass?" problem.

As for performance, I'm sure theres an easy way in fixing it short of cleaning everything inside. The same sucky performance came from the L96 clone until a lot of fanatics (myself included) bashed skulls and solved nearly all of its inherent problems.

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DBoyi's bringing out wood stock version, reported on airsoft news eu :( and what a *badgeress* that is,

bought mine a month ago, shot four times and the bolt broke, its just been sitting here all this time

while the retailer is sourceing replacment.Could have waited and bought the wooden version.

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If you take an 8x57 shell casing and drill a 1/4" hole in the base you can push a 2.8" long x 5/16" o.d. x 1/4" i.d. metal tube into the casing. A 2.8" x 1/4" o.d x .170" i.d. poly flexible tubing can then be slid into the metal tubing. At this point I used a belt sander to put a bevel on the end of the metal tubing to ensure a good fit into the barrel when the round is chambered. With all the components together I pushed the plastic tubing to within .10" of the tip and put a small ring of silicon glue in to hold the bb. When this dried I pushed a bb in to force the plastic tube down. This should end up about .20" from the base of the shell. This distance between the base and the plastic tubing allows the nozzle on the end of the bolt to seat snugly. They work and they cost me about $1.75. The only problem I've had so far is the silicon gasket had to be replaced on two shells after they'd been shot a couple of times. For you guys in the states I got all my supplies, other than the shell casings, at an ace hardware. For you folks out of the country it might be harder depending on how your laws regard shell casings. Please don't ask for pictures I haven't mastered that spell yet. If you look a the shell provided from the side and then streight through it should be self explanatory.

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Yeah, but then you probably would have a more expensive, heavier broken rifle. :P

 

Yep as boom were happy to send replacement but wanted me to pay the shipping but gave me very resonable shipping $49 for the bolt, a gbb,metal kit for mauri 1911 ,2bags of 8mm bbs and shells for the kar it worked out ok for me, didn't get stug by customs neither :D way i look at it the only parts that will ever wear out on this rifle are in the bolt itself- piston, main spring fatigue and i got two of everything. hopefully it will hold as well as everyone else are happy with theirs.

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I read today that DBoyi is releasing the stock as a separate item. DBoyi seems to make all their component parts available at some point, its surprising to me that they are making the stock available separately from the gun before marketing the full wood-stock version though.

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Does seem a little weird given woodstock version was announced, but maybe they figure its price point is a bit high to shift in numbers and would rather flog the stocks as an upgrade option first (rather than hold off till they've got sufficient stock of fully assembled ones ready to go out the door)?

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hey guiness i took out the hop up on my kar98 cuz it was messing up the accuracy. and now the bb's allways shoot down but they dont shoot to the sides. any ideas on how to make the bb's go up? ive tried to but another barrel in there but i couldnt .to big :P

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Got a Tanaka Works Zf 41 scope. The damned thing costs about as much as the Kar! :D De scope has gotten really bad reviews because of bad eye relief and so on, but I like it! Took me alot of work to get it on, but I'm satisfied with the result! I'm also going to try to get is as busted up as Guiness's ;) thanks for the tips in the thread!

 

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A guy who knows a guy that knew a guy (like that) I found a real Kar 98 stock with metal parts. Armaments code seems to be from Johannes Grossfuss, Metall- u. Lackierwarenfabrik, Doebeln, Saxen. Date suggest 1940 on the stockplate, number matches the wood so it should be one set. Finish is average - good

 

I hesitated a moment, then I got to work. After some minor work, the replica parts dropped right in.

 

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Original plastic handguard and stock

 

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Unfortunately fading sunlight, but I managed to take this pic. Kar 98 top, M1 Garand at the bottom.

 

Next; sling + bajonet!

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that looks amazing

looks like you had to do some work on the front barrel band?

 

Thanks. The stock came with all the metal parts, including the front barrel band. Fitted without a problem.

 

I just gave the stock a coat of linseed oil. Smells like history now :D

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Here are some pics of mine; I got the real wood version, but I must say the plastic stock version does look more real (aside from the seams):

 

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv94/Pa...enadier/002.jpg

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv94/Pa...enadier/003.jpg

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv94/Pa...enadier/004.jpg

 

Forgot to mention the sling is sold separately.

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