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wa12.jpg

 

Still need to sand down the area around the trigger guard. After that, moving to wetsanding with a finer grid, and she's done.

 

Why did I sand it?

 

- because I don't like 2tone guns

- because I didn't knew you could get the paint off with a simple oven cleaner product. Maybe on a cheap WE, but not on the "perfectly finished" Prime frame. I expect an anodizing withstanding a bit more than just some chemicals (and I work often with painted automotive parts and chemical cleaning products, but I've never seen a good painting come off)

- because the stock Prime slide is sanded too. I even have had a lot of people on skirms asking me if I sanded that slide myself. I know someone who can beadblast, but I was afraid the smoother finish wouldn't match the slide.

- because I'm a skirmer, and I use this pistol as primary. Last skirm this thing accidentally tumbled down *a lot* of concrete stairs. It has nicks and dents all over the place. So I'm not that concerned about "ruining a perfectly coated frame".

 

This is my CQB beast, I'm satisfied with its performance like Bush would be satisfied with Bin Ladens head on a plate, and right now I'm a zillion times more satisfied with its looks. So I'm a happy man, whatever you say ;)

 

Concering the thumb safety, is there a trick I have to know to get in out in one motion? I put it in the upmost position, pulled on it, fiddled with it for 15 minutes, tried to hammer it out from the otherside, still nothing, and after another ten minutes it just came out without any use of force. Tried it a second time, and it was exactly the same result. Is my safety just dumb, or am I? ^^

 

Btw, sidequestion: do slide stops for the Hicapa also work on the M1911? I would want to buy an extended slide stop, and judging from pics they look the same, but I'm not sure.

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- because the stock Prime slide is sanded too. I even have had a lot of people on skirms asking me if I sanded that slide myself. I know someone who can beadblast, but I was afraid the smoother finish wouldn't match the slide.

 

 

The stock Prime Custom CDP II slide is NOT sanded, it's bead-blasted. You should have just bead-blasted the frame to match it. I hope you have some good hand-sanding finishing technique otherwise it's gonna look worse than it already does. Sorry for the negativity but it's hard to look at such a nice metal kit utterly destroyed.

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err yeah, The CDP slide is bead blasted, doesnt look sanded from any angle.

 

It's obviously your choice, but I'm just not sure why you chose the gorgoeus two-tone CDP kit and not an actual stainless kit to start with.

 

--

 

edit - oh and thumb safeties are easy to remove. Cock hammer, engage safety, wiggle and pull. Simple as that.

Edited by hardboiledcop
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is it too late to lightly bead blast the frame to clean it up a bit?

 

once again, sorry about the negativity its just a shame to spoil such a nice expensive metal kit. a WE, KJW, HFC etc fine, but not prime.

if it's not much effort for you i'd just lightly blast it to match it a bit better. after that i'm sure it'll look great, but right now the sanding job looks a bit rough compared to the slide.

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He should just beadblast the frame and slide now.

 

And Zmarre. The thumb safety comes out much easier if you still have the mainspring housing ON the gun. If you remove the mainspring housing and leaf spring, the hammer/sear/disconnector flop around and make it annoyingly difficult to slide the thumb safety out.

 

As hardboiledCop said, just cock the hammer and slide the thumb safety out, just keep the mainspring housing on the gun so that the hammer actually stays cocked back.

 

Good luck with the rest of the sanding project too. Really wasn't trying to be negative but I'd like to see your CDP end up with the best results possible.

Edited by ViciousV10s
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And Zmarre. The thumb safety comes out much easier if you still have the mainspring housing ON the gun. If you remove the mainspring housing and leaf spring, the hammer/sear/disconnector flop around and make it annoyingly difficult to slide the thumb safety out.

 

Aha! Thanks, I will definitely remember this for the next time.

 

The stock Prime Custom CDP II slide is NOT sanded, it's bead-blasted.

 

I fairly believe you. But it's a fact that it really *does* look sanded to me and a lot of other people. It's covered with very thin longitudinal strokes, like someone passed over it with a small grid of sanding paper. Maybe it's the previous owner, no idea, but it really definitely looks sanded ;)

 

He should just beadblast the frame and slide now.

 

That has always been my backup plan for when my sanding would look terrible. But like I said, the front of the frame does look *exactly* like the slide. I can't, by any means possible, detect any difference in finish between that part and my slide. It just has a *slightly* more gloss in it, but I'm pretty sure that will be neglectible in time (read: after one skirmish)

 

It's obviously your choice, but I'm just not sure why you chose the gorgoeus two-tone CDP kit and not an actual stainless kit to start with.

 

That, sir, was my actual plan. But I got this gun second hand, a lot cheaper than buying a new WA and a metal kit of my choice. After all, I'm just a regular student with a lot of passion for airsoft in general, GBBs in particular, and love for the 1911 :)

 

Really wasn't trying to be negative but I'd like to see your CDP end up with the best results possible.

 

Yeah, I know. I'm learning every day from guys like you all, so don't hesitate to post, even if it isn't positive. I have a tough skin ;)

 

So, back to my previous question: would slide stops for the Hicapa (or the TM M1911) work on my WA?

Edited by Zmarre
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Hi Zmarre, a quick tip if you want it use AUTOSOL chrome polish on your frame and slide now it will take away all the dirt from the paper and make look very nice.

The slide on this one is done with a 600 wetsand paper and some autosol polishing.

19113.jpg

Regards,

Kenneth

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new54.jpg

 

I still have a lot of fine tuning to do but its pretty close to done. Sorry the single pic so crappy. The weather was getting kind of nasty as I went outside. :(

 

TM MEUSOC

VFC SFA Metal Slide and Frame

Guarder steel outer barrel

Guarder Steel Sear and hammer pin set

Guarder meusoc 150% spring set

PDI 6.01 inner barrel

PDI Koutetsu Sear

Action aluminum piston head

AS Surgeon lightweight blowback housing

 

Ranger Green Gunner/Strider grips

 

5x meu magazines

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Thanks

 

They are the standard TM meu novak sights with nitesiters on them.

 

 

I haven't chrono'd it yet but I'm expecting something like 330fps on propane in room temperature. The actual kick is really nice. It was definitely worth the money just for those upgrades to help out with that.

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Yes you can:) , but those have metal insertes and gun is about 100g havier and better balanced....especially with this beast in the front. 125/220 lumens depends on the bulb. Center point is around the trigger and total weight is about 1250g. :D:D:D:D I have also King Arms M3 copy for more SWAT looks. It's more compact ,less military looking like, lighter and not so bright.

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