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Nice looking Kimber Dave.


You have a parts list for that?


Sure thing, Henry.


Tokyo Marui MEU Based

Nova Kimber Warrior Metal Kit

PDI Full Length Guide Rod and Recoil Spring

Tanio Koba Hammer, Beavertail Grip Safety, Ambi Thumb Safety, Mainspring Housing, Sear/Hammer Pins

TM Hicapa 5.1 Blowback Housing

Custom Grips


A lot of work was required and I took my sweet time to fit everything. To sum up, the trigger is too tall, the beavertail doesn't account for the frame bar, the thumb safety interferes with the frame housing, the mag catch hole is too small, the slide stop hole is too small, the rear plate for the blowback housing isn't shaped correctly, and the rails on the blowback housing and frame housing interfere. For those curious, the quality of the TK parts are on par with the stock TM parts. I'm very pleased with the results and the only thing left to do is swap for KA springs which are incoming.

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How come you used the TK controls instead of the MEU ones? Fitment issue or aesthetics?


So what did you wind up doing for the TK grip safety to fit properly? Did you modify the grip safety, or cut the frame bar?


I really do love those grips man. Very nice.

Edited by junior
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id like to know too... :D

its still working great for me, junior! im having a problem with my ambi safety moving though 1 mm by itself, and safing the pistol. ill fix that...


Good to hear man. I had the tough choice in deciding whether to modify a $250+ metal body kit or a $75 part. I chose the cheaper one of the 2 ;) . I'm curious to see what other people did in that situation.




Thats just awesome man. What lower is that?


With the glare in the picture it looks like the frame and slide are slightly but still noticeably different finishes? In person is it the same way or is it less noticeable?

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Hi Junior.


Thanks for the complement. :)


The lower is TK Heavy Weight frame. Pretty decent quality, Being heavy weight, its heavier than my Nova frame. :P The colour difference is not that noticable in person. It seems the camera intensified difference under natrual lighting. I wish I had more "camera skills". :P I think the white balance is off. Had to adjust in photoshop but due to my lack of skills, couldn't really make correct fix.


The PGC STI slide is also always very slightly blueish under natural lighting. So I think thats what camera captured and it reflects light a bit more due to anodised finish against heavy weight material, which doesn't really reflect any light, if not at all.

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FAL, that's a beautiful 1911.


Henry, I used the TK controls for aesthetics (didn't want SFA controls on a Kimber and perhaps there might be some people interested in the SFA). I chose to modify the beavertail so it would be a drop in fit for any frame with a rounded tang. I've done it before so it wasn't that big of a deal.


Joe, I had to file down my TK thumb safety where it interfered with the frame housing (the area on the safety just adjacent to the sear post, not the sear post itself or it may require adding material in order to function). I determined the area of interference by stripping the frame of everything except only the frame housing and testing the movement of the thumb safety.

Edited by davedawg123
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the problem with mine is that the "hump" that seperates the sections of safe and fire, that contacts the little nub on the side of the pistol, has a small flat section, so it can move slightly, engaging the safety. all i have to do is sand it into a point, when i get the chance.


Edited by masakarijoe
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I forgot to mention one key area of concern when fitting the kit was the MEU blowback housing. The MEU blowback housing has a hole on top of it near the nozzle spring slot, unlike the A1/hicapa blowback housing. The MEU rear sight has an extrusion underneath it that fits in that hole. Without the MEU rear sight (Nova A1 kits come with their own rear sight of different dimensions), the nozzle spring is not fully contained in its slot and is free to come out of position and will do so after a few shots. The remedy is to either seal that hole by placing tape under the rear sight (similar to the MEU's extrusion) or to use an A1/Hicapa blowback housing. I chose the latter because I had a spare thanks to Brian.

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Thanks again. :P




Hi Romulus. It's based off STI Trojan. I always liked it and wanted to build something as close as possible in airsoft. Unfortunately there ain't no Trojan slide available. In fact near zero STI specific parts to build their 1911 varients. So I had to use Eagle slide. I couldn't get my hand's on real steel STI grip safety neither the single side thumb safety. I wanted to place full length recoil guide rod and recoil plug in black colour but couldn't find anything like that available in airsoft either. :( So basicly my best effort with any airsoft parts I can get my hands on to. That's the result. :P


Parts list:


Slide parts


*PGC STI Eagle 5.1 slide.

*Hicapa front and rear sight.

*Shooter's Design rear sight blade.

*Airsoft Surgeon CNC aluminium BBU

*Hicapa nozzle.


Recoil parts:


*Hicapa 5.1 recoil guide. (going to be replaced soon with something of better quality.)

*Nineball teflon coated recoil plug.(Nineball 1911 recoil guide is a junk so I didn't use it)

*Guarder reinforced recoil spring.


Barrel parts:


[edit. forgot to put it in here] *Nova SS barrel bushing.

*Aluminium outerbarrel in satin silver finish. ".45ACP" marking. (I don't know where this came from. I had bunch of 1911 barrels in a box and picked one up that had similar finish to the Trojan. :P )

*PDI 01 innerbarrel.

*Firefly extra soft hopup rubber.


Control parts:


*Slide stop from Detonics

*Thumb Safety from Detonics

*Mag release from Detonics

*Grip safety from Hicapa 5.1


Frame parts:


*Tanio Koba heavy weight frame.

*Airsoft Surgeon steel hammer kit.

*Trigger from Hicapa 5.1.

*Nova MSH, checkered.

*STI rose wood grip w/STI logo, standard thickness.

*The rest of internal parts are from TM 1911.


The gun works and fires very smooth and accurate. I love shooting it. Now I need to invest on some good shoulder holster. :P Thinking of either Alessi or Galco.


Cheers. :)

Edited by fal
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Thanks for the parts list.


I think that you did an awesome job replicating the Trojan. Seems like 1911's of that caliber are customized so often that little differences don't matter.


As far as the full length recoil guide goes since you already have the gun modded to use a Hi-Capa part you could use a PDI Palsonite Hi-Capa 5.1 guide rod (link) to get some black up there. PDI also used a nice black outer barrel and a black barrel bushing so the only thing left would be coming up with a black recoil bushing.


Still, it looks just fine the way it is now so there's probably no reason to spend more money. ;)


Edit: looking at the picture it does still have a silver barrel so it might be worth picking up the PDI palsonite guide.

Edited by Romulus
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Thanks. :)




Thanks for the complement and suggestion. :) Do you know if PDI palsonite barrel have any kind of self-lubricating feature? Or is it polished/blued black? I never dealt with their Palsonite products before so I have little to no clue about it. I bought Guarder recoil guide in black. What a stupid mistake it was!! The finish and paint job done was so rough it actually made the gun work very stiff. Oil or grease, nothing helped. I immediately chucked it away. Garrr. I was thinking of Nineball hicapa recoil spring guide rod. They are all teflon coated and makes the gun cycle very smooth. And belive it or not, bearing does make difference. Noticable improvement over standard guides. Untill, well, it breaks. It did on my 1911 one.


I think I might have to give up on black recoil plug though. There is no black ones available and I don't like painting as they just end up chipping off unless it is anodised/powder coated. Been there done that. I actually liked it better with SS guide rod. Black one didn't look very "good" with SS recoil plug unfortantely.


Another option I tried was using standard 1911 recoil plug. But full length recoil rod makes gun work much smoother. Standard 1911 recoil plug allows disassembly much more friendly though. :P (as to the real gun also.)

Edited by fal
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agreed on the nine-ball bearing guiderod. It was awesome before it breaks, but it does break....I am running a Guarder guiderod on my Hi-Capa and the only way I had to make it work was literally to put it on a lathe and refinish the thing....


I don't know how PDI treats all their palsonite finish, but if its anything like their palsonite barrel on my Hi-Capa it should be a fairly smooth finish that should make for a smooth guiderod...not sure if it is coated though...

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