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WWII Weapons Picture Thread


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I will, one day, own one of those CYMA M1A1s (The Cybergah version, though...I'm a sucker for trademarks.) with a wood kit, like the one in Dukeman's post...that, is one b-e-a-utiful SMG.

 

-Vic

 

Don't bother, their civilian trades and their painted on. If anything, sand them off and krylon back over it.

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I also put this in the homade thread

 

 

Still need to paint it up and finish up the solution for the working bolt. But its externals are 99% done. I need to finish the little nub protruding from the front sight.

 

I did things a little differently than 2ndBat (ww2airsoft association). I basically followed the Ontario directions. I used a synthetic stock kit for the front and rear handguards. I had gotten a great deal on the entire set a while back and was hoping the synthetic stock would work for a Garand stock conversion. Unfortunaetly it didnt.

 

I used a Plastic Welding method I learned from Epyon on airsoftretreat. Its really simple, a soldering iron heated u will weld the plastic together. I worked the area welded over and over till I was sure I had asolid joint all the way thru. If I needed something filled, I used slivers from the front portion that was cut off the stock. This is a lot stronger than bondo or filler. Im tempted to actually try to weld the traditional Garand hump on the stock itself.

 

The thing that I think makes my Conversion a little bit special is the usage of the front of the M14 stock. I pried off the metal band and chopped the stock flush as you would with normal conversions. Instead of mounting the handguard band on the flushness I went back to the piece of stock I had discarded. The U-shaped protusions underneath the metal band fit perfectly into the Garand sling swivle piece. So I chopped off the U-shaped joint and Plastic welded it to my already cut down Stock. This allows everythign to mount very cleanly and solidly, especially in combination with the gas cyclinders set screw.. I have no reservations suing the front sling swivle.

 

Garand

burkegarandzb3.jpg

 

Front end with #6-32 set screw holding it all together. Tap was cheap at Home depot

bgscrewab7.jpg

 

Butt with Garand plate. Rear of stock was plastic welded.

bgbuttrr4.jpg

 

Side dots plastic welded and filled

bgsidelq6.jpg

 

Entire front end

bgfrontfz7.jpg

 

Closeup of grips together

bggripsug3.jpg

 

Plastic welded stock.

bgstocksg5.jpg

 

Grips and stock showing how they go together

bgtogethercl9.jpg

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thompson_warhawk1.jpg

P40 warhawk, anybody? One of the most fun paint jobs I've ever done.

If I still had a motorcycle, it would look like this. No shiny paint to worry about.

 

thompson_warhawk2.jpg

If people were duracoating guns WBW (waybackwhen), would there have been ODrab Tommies?

 

thompson_warhawk3.jpg

I should have painted some "kills" on it somewhere...

This one's a CYMA clone. Want to know how to tell, on sight, a Marui from a CYMA?

 

thompson_warhawk4.jpg

Look at the screw holding the grip on. The Marui used the correct slotted head, the CYMA has a Phillips.

Edited by Killbucket
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Something I forgot to add to the aged metal tutorial:

To get a convincing "greasy" look, I spray the whole aged surface with matte clear, to dull it.

Then I use high-gloss clear wherever a real gun would be oozing melted gungrease.

Scummy_M2HB001.jpg

Part of what tricks the eye into seeing "metal", is that machinery almost never has an even shine to it.

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AGM MP40, converted to full-auto only, Maruzen P.38

100_0550.jpg

 

Shoei GBB MP44

100_0549.jpg

 

Tanaka K98k, rubber bayonet

100_0548.jpg

 

TM Thompson, CAW wood kit, TM M1911A1, Guarder metal kit, rubber M3 trench knife

100_0551.jpg

 

Custom 2nd Batt M1 Garand conversion from TM M14, rubber M1 bayonet

100_0552.jpg

 

 

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