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And my first attempt at stippling is...not too shabby, as it turns out.

My first glock, marui g17 foliage green with the guns modify SAI slide set. Phone picture.  

Stock TM frame finally breaks after so many years so this one is quick and dirty to keep down time minimal I didn't even completely knock down the stock texture on front/back straps   This is

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Noveske has your gold barrel tarnished at all? I've put 350 rounds the ought mine over a few day and noticed that the barrel had started to dull

 

 

Haven't put enough rounds through it yet to know.  I'll keep you updated when the time comes.  My HK3P Gen 4 is actually my work horse.

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You have three basic options - you can polish off oxide as it forms (by repeatedly polishing it), you can deny the existing surface oxygen (by polishing it and then lacquering it to protect the finish), or you can have it gold plated which will be much more resistant to oxidisation (and not particularly expensive, I shouldn't think). There are plenty of places in the UK that will do it for you but I don't know if that S on the top of the chamber will be visible afterwards - although you might also lose the S if you polish it too much.

Edited by PureSilver
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Hey guys, I picked up a WE Glock 19, an right out of the box the white "paint" wore off the rear sight.  Any ideas if I can put real OEM Glock sites on it or is there another source for better sights somewhere?  

 

Thanks!

 

In short no.  WE Glock 19 runs a clone Tokyo Marui system which the internal blow back unit (BBU) is held in via a screw into the rear sight.  I believe only KSC/KWAs could run RS sights.

 

 

On that note.  More salient:  G22C.  Yes that makes 3 now. LOL

 

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Guys, I would like to request some help frome someone who is familiar with the Guarder slide which is said to be made of 7075 aluminium. I am converting my TM G17 to CO2 use therefore I need a strong slide.

My question is that Guarder 7075 aluminium one much stronger than the usual metal slides or I should try getting a steel one? Which I have been trying with no luck so far.

Is it really made of 7075 aluminium?

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The strength difference between 7075 and 6036 (the usual grade of aluminium used in quality airsoft parts) is about 100%; that is, untreated 6036 has a tensile strength of <19,000psi, and untreated 7075 has a tensile strength of <40,000psi. So 7075 should be much stronger than your average metal slide, yes; in fact, its Wikipedia article lists it as comparable to some steels in strength.

 

In terms of airsoft, the alloy of steel used in slides and the like is usually not specified (e.g., my 'Kat's slide and outer barrel are just 'stainless steel' - they wouldn't tell me what grade) because it's not usually seen as important and because it's usually not very good. In airsoft applications, any form of steel is usually vastly overspecified in strength - the only steel part I can think of known to fail with any regularity is the older Inokatsu SuperBolts, OEM'd in RA-Tech's soft steel - and it's the other properties of the alloy, specifically the density, that are desirable for making heavy, realistic-feeling airsoft parts. The upshot of all of this is that if the Guarder 7075 slide is 7075, it is likely to be at the very least close to as good as the probably cheap steel used to make a steel slide.

 

Your biggest problem, if you're planning on using the HFC GLOCK magazines, is likely to be getting the damn things to strike, not the slide. I think you'll need a hell of a hammer spring for that...

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I use APS magazines already. Surprisingly they work with the stock hammer spring. I just need a stronger slide, the new Gunsmodify frame and a strong recoil spring. :)

 

Thank you very much for your answer. I was thinking more or less the same thing but I am still rookie in pistol building so I asked.

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If you get the Guarder alu. slide, I'd recommend not getting the Guarder slide stops, as mine caused my steel G19 slide's slide stop notch to wear at an angle; Guarder slide stops are of a much harder steel than TM/WE/KJW.

On another note, finally got my G19 to have a realistic trigger position.
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Here's how:
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The red outline is the original trigger bar stop position.  I used some sheet steel from an ACM AR dust cover and bent it to shape, then CA'ed it and reinforced the gaps with epoxy. 

Feels nice. :D

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I *fruitcage* love Tupperware :) Two recent additions to the collection!

 

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The WE's trades kinda suck but it is a blast to shoot. Good pop and all!

 

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On a side note, the Madbull HEMS, Trinity, and Tident all share the same tube diameter so you can mix and match ends. The HEMS knurled end has a spring loaded mech that prevents the POI from shifting as it does with every other one of my suppressors. The WE and KSCs also fit fine in the Crye Gunclip but only the KSCs fit in the comparable SERPA.

 

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Anywho... I was shooting a little wide so photos with the suppressor are just a massive blur. Doh! Looked much clearer on a 2" screen. So Ill close with a family shot.

 

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Cheers

Edited by QDRenegade
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Whoops yeah thats a nice detail I left out. Long day!

 

Has anyone CNC engraved the missing elements onto a TM/WE/KSC slide? It seems the G on the WE slide needs another stroke then a few letters as well as "Gen4" to be complete. Seems like that would take a mill or engraver all of 30 seconds after getting set up. Im thinking the process may cost as much as a replacement slide but all the Prada parts, in my experience, always seem to offset the better looks with shittier performance.

 

Cheers

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Just took some pics of my new #1 gun in the collection.

 

The Stark / VFC Glock 19 GBB with full trades.

 

Obviously I had to make a "Project RS Case" for it!

 

Also has RS Glock front and rear sight and magazine baseplates.

 

EDIT: Re-did the pics with less aggressive settings in PS... Look much better now.

 

 

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Edited by NonEx
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