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Glock Picture Thread

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Finally joined the G club (again...after my very brief stint with a beat up used WE G19)...This one is a storm airsoft arsenal (which is supposedly vfc/stark arms for the Japanese market). Feels nice, looks nice, hopefully it shoots nice too.

 

IMAG00622_zpsggs7f3xl.jpg

IMAG00612_zpsw1yetgdo.jpg

IMAG00632_zpso1hff3tr.jpg

IMAG00642_zpsy4pe6nny.jpg

 

 

Expect a full review and comparison to my duty Glock 17 in the near future! I might also try to get a NEW (i.e. not beat) WE gen 4 G17 (or 19) to compare

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MrKingTaco1776..thats a great looking G19. Wish Socom Gear/Echo 1/WE would bring out the Timberwolf licensed style G19 frame. It would fill a void that we in the States are having to deal with now. 

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Finally joined the G club (again...after my very brief stint with a beat up used WE G19)...This one is a storm airsoft arsenal (which is supposedly vfc/stark arms for the Japanese market). Feels nice, looks nice, hopefully it shoots nice too.

 

 

Where did you get this?

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With a little help from folks here, I managed to get my hands on a G17. It's a really nice looking piece!

There's just one problem: I took the slide off and now it won't ever go back on again. I've watched half a dozen disassembly/reassembly videos and have been emailing with the guy who sold it to me, and I'm not closer to making it work. I even took apart and put back together a real one just to make myself feel less like I was taking crazy pills.

Anyone got any idea what I'm doing wrong?


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This may sound weird but try holding it up-side down when you put the slide back on. My M&P 9 had the same issue and that worked until the pistol seemed to wear in. Then it was normal.

 

Sometimes you have to rack the slide back quickly as well. Thats all I can think of.

 

Nothing in the video seems to be out of place.

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VFC/ Stark

 

Try keeping the tip of the rotor pointing forward and push the hammer down allowing the slide to go back, I had the same issue with one stark

 

vrafja.jpg

Edited by Rainer1989

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Tried that; it doesn't seem to be the issue either. The slide seems to have no issues with rolling past the hammer or anything else. It just hits something and is at a hard stop in that position in the picture above.

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Probably not the case, but I've had issues with hi caps where the outer barrel rotates slightly so the bit that sticks down along the side of the hop up chamber doesn't allow it to seat properly.

 

But that should just be the barrel and shouldn't affect the slide. Never mind.

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Tried that; it doesn't seem to be the issue either. The slide seems to have no issues with rolling past the hammer or anything else. It just hits something and is at a hard stop in that position in the picture above.

I was just messing around with mine to see if I could replicate your issue and did...this is actually something with the hammer/internal assembly on what seems to be an internal hammer disconnect for full auto. As far as I can tell, it is so that when the slide racks, the hammer drops down far enough to let the shoe return, then as the slide goes forward again, the internal selector in the slide bumps the sear returning it to firing position, or dropping the hammet in full auto mode. What you need to do is press down on the rear of the hammer and press on the front of the sear to make it flat and flush with the frame. I bet if you look at it right now it is tilted upwards in the front...this shouldn't happen from just racking the slide so I'm guessing that at some point,with the slide off, you pulled the trigger then reset the hammer and pushed it down a little too far causing that sear to engage the hammer and catch on the slide internals.

 

 

IMAG0158_zpsffyset3s.jpg

IMAG0157_zps4hgcngtq.jpg

 

Hopefully you can see the difference in those pics...

Edited by Bostitch
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Haven't had much time lately, but I'll have to give that a try. I think it's similar to what Greg was saying. Most likely I've already tried it in the past but I'm sure this whole thing comes down to something stupidly simple.

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Here's some arrows drawn on to show exit exactly what I mean..

 

6f479287-25af-4276-956e-cc3eba072891_zps

8d21031b-fcb5-4f37-8a73-6a7e661203b3_zps

Press down the front of that sear where the vertical blue arrow is and the hammer should raise up a little and the sear will become flat level with the frame (angle shown with horizontal blue arrow) as opposed to angled down in the rear like shown in the first pic

Edited by Bostitch

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interesting...that's the only thing I could get mine to do that would cause the side to stop where yours is. Ony other thing I can say is to make sure the recoil spring assembly is centered perfectly on the outer barrels lug...if it overhangs one side or the other it could hang up also, but that would hang up before the slide got that far back....

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So... My Guarder Ultimate Custom Glock 19 GEN3 GBB build is sort of completed :D

 

A few things to adjust and fix; 

 

RS Glock slide catch lever was not worth the effort, fiddly to fit, poor functionality. Will substitute for Guarder part.

RS Glock magazine release button also not worth the effort. Since the Guarder frame is a bit thicker than RS it doesn't sit right. Will substitute for Guarder part.

Getting Guarder gas route rubbers for the magazines, as well as Guarder high-flow valves for the magazines.

Replacing the frame (third times a charm!) due to mods made to accommodate RS slide catch lever (and some marks during the build).

 

There are only two minor parts that you cannot get as aftermarket parts from Guarder, or others, and those are; 

 

Part # 42 - Rear hammer chassi screw. You can probably get that from your local hardware store or possibly use a PC chassi screw?

Part # 38( B ) - Trigger bar pin. The Guarder ridged trigger only comes with one pin, holding the trigger safety. A pin to hold the trigger bar needs to be sourced.

 

DJ Komodo just told me these can be found via KY Airsoft as WE compatible parts; 

 

https://www.kyairsoft.com/shop/product/g-g-25-semi-gbbp-16208?search=g-25

 

https://www.kyairsoft.com/shop/product/g-g-14-semi-gbbp-16197?search=g-14

 

Other than that, all parts are Guarders upgrade parts, some RS parts and some other third party parts. But basically it is a scratch build with the exception of the two parts listed above that I took from a KJW G23 that I bought for this build (before all the parts from Guarder were released.)

 

Almost everything was a complete drop in fit, had to do the following; 

 

  • Front inner chassi had some flash in the mold process in the left-hand side hole where the slide lock lever goes which I had to file down.
  • Dummy extractor was oversized and had to be filed down, and some edges on the slide where the extractor went had to be sanded down as well. For whatever reason, the extractor was not secured in place once installed with friction fit so I ended up having to epoxy it in place.
  • Serial number plate cover had to be trimmed a bit at the front to allow for the front inner chassi to seat properly.

 

Yeah, I think that was everything I had to do... Insanely smooth build to be honest :D

 

I've had it dry built for about a month already and racked it a couple of hundred times and the action of the slide is super smooth by now. Have not test fired it yet :P

 

 

Excel Shopping list file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B85pTFS-CoRJWUFYSk5lMlNvR1k/view?usp=sharing

Exploded view file (courtesy of AirSplat): https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B85pTFS-CoRJdm11MGV3azhXWEk/view?usp=sharing

 

EDIT: It looks like I have a stainless slide catch lever and stainless pins but that's just the highlights from my lights reflecting in those parts. They are black :D 

 

rCb6EOj.jpg

 

d7ZAZA1.jpg

 

 

Parts list as screenshot

 

0mQCjzS.png

 

 

Exploded View

 

jq8dcmF.png

Edited by NonEx
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Thanks, I don't call it "Ultimate" for nothing :) 

 

Just finished it like an hour ago and it's 11PM here so :P

 

But shooting my airsoft guns has never been my top priority hehe.

 

:D

Edited by NonEx

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Great build buddy, looks extremely nice!! Those lines on the guarder frame is still bugging me a little :)

I personally contacted Guarder when I was building my Guarder G19 and suggested them making a hop up housing to be able to make a G19 from scratch only using guarder parts,

they said "we will look in to that" and some time later they released just that part :D  

Now they're advertising a map showing all parts needed to build a G26/17/34, we should tell them to include the screw with the rear chassis and pin with the trigger to make it complete. 

16473633_1422504394487151_90682025754518

  • Like 2

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