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Glock Picture Thread

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Interesting. Since people can fit RS clipdraws which seem to attach the same way my guess is that this could be possible. However, I'd wait to hear from people who have actually fit clipdraws before drawing a final conclusion.

 

That being said if I ever build a Glock 18 SMG I would want to use one of these. Cool find.

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Interesting. Since people can fit RS clipdraws which seem to attach the same way my guess is that this could be possible. However, I'd wait to hear from people who have actually fit clipdraws before drawing a final conclusion.

 

That being said if I ever build a Glock 18 SMG I would want to use one of these. Cool find.

 

yeah me too....

i'd like to put one of those stocks on it too....

would be a pretty nasty 18c

 

let me know if you ever want to part with that 18c of yours, shes a beaut

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pic request;

 

Glock 18c with rail and Eotech 552.

 

I just want to get an idea of what that looks like, I have a feeling it may look too bulky.

 

cheers.

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The biggest downer is no markings at all. It`s a KWA/KWC G17. I`m gonna get me a CA MP5A2 to complete my Norwegian NCSS kit.

dsc01229kt5.th.jpgthpix.gif

Edited by Lectric

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It has an enhanced recoil spring, and valve. the slides & barrels are Boomarms.

 

they will be used for CQB. because they are light and accurate.

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Nice Glocks, im About to order A KSC Glock 17.

 

I have a question though, what are hi-flow vavles for? better gas venting?

 

 

if i`m not totally wrong it`s for higher gas pressure when it`s released.

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The theory behind Hi-Flow values is that they have a bigger opening than standard valves and thus release more gas per shot. This usually translates into a higher FPS but also makes the gun less gas efficient (so it will get less shots form a given volume of gas).

 

So basically they are a trade off. If you want more power I would recommend installing parts like tightbores first because they give you a nice FPS boost without hurting anything.

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P1000852.jpg

 

P1000842.jpg

 

P1000855.jpg

 

P1000849.jpg

 

P1000847.jpg

 

KSC G17-Base

KSC Old School Fully traded lower

ProG4 Custom STEEL G22 Slide and Barrel (Only one like it in the world. I guarantee it ;) )

KSC G34 Rear sight

RS reduced power #15 Recoil Spring (Still playing around with the coils)

Guarder Recoil rod

RS Tangodown Mag catch

Proud Plug spring

SD Floating Valve

Hidakaya Hammer Spring

JRC Custom Hi-Flow

Proud Mag Baseplate

 

 

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That's hot. I love the JRC prefix on the numbers.

 

I'm a huge fan of steel slides. I might have to talk to them at some point when I have money.

 

How does it feel to shoot compared to a normal metal G17 (or the steel slided TM G26 that you tweaked for ben that I have now)?

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That's hot. I love the JRC prefix on the numbers.

 

I'm a huge fan of steel slides. I might have to talk to them at some point when I have money.

 

How does it feel to shoot compared to a normal metal G17 (or the steel slided TM G26 that you tweaked for ben that I have now)?

 

Thanks Man. Yea after talking to aznriptide859 he said I should get my initials somewhere on the slide. I contacted ProG4 and thy agreed to let me change up the trades a bit. Almost didn't happen, but I'm glad it did..

 

The overall feel is very much different then any other Glock I've owned or felt, with exception to your G26. The gun is very top heavy, but balances out well with the mag in. The steel slide is so damn heavy I was scared it wasn't going to cycle at all, but it cycles and shoots surprisingly well with the Guarder 150% recoil spring. The RS recoil spring i'm modifying is to give the gun a snappier return. The Steel slide with the Guarder recoil spring, is similar to shooting a G17 with an aluminum slide and a stock recoil spring (if you can imagine that)

 

Side by side shooting this Steel G22 and my Creation G17 the Steel 22 has a much stronger kick. Plus the sound of a steel slide cycling is awesome!

 

hows their pricing for the Glock slides?

 

Pricing was not bad. Normal CNC Aluminum slides on their website run about $108-118. This custom slide was a bit over $200

 

 

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Here is what I have done to my Glock. I still need to get and fit a new front sight blade though, but other than that, it all works and I am happy. :D

 

PB180082.jpg

 

PB180086.jpg

 

PB180084.jpg

 

PB180085.jpg

 

PB180088.jpg

 

It started out life as a Glock 18C, but I dont like the cut out at the rear of the slide. I thought about filling it in, and then decided that probably wouldnt work too well as there wouldnt be much to secure the infill in place, so I decided to replace the slide with a metal Glock 17 one. I still wanted to retain the full auto function of the 18 (because full auto is nice), but didnt want to change the look of the 17 too much. I certainly didnt want to have the full auto mod sticking out of the rear as per the real steel full auto mod for the 17. I also didnt want to be stuck with either full auto or semi auto, I want to be able to choose, so I wanted to retain the selector switch if possible. So...I got a metal slide set for the Glock 17 and proceeded to carefully mark out and cut away the metal using files and chisels, and drills for the pilot holes for the securing pins, then filing away the metal to make it fit. Luckily I know an engineer who helped me to do it, otherwise I would have been *fruitcage*ed half way through, as it took a lot more work to *fruitcage* about with it to make it fit than I first thought. My photography skills are poor at best, but the trades on the slide do read Glock 17, and I also hate those crappy white coloured trades that you get on the metal slides for the Glock 18. I would like the older style non railed frame, but dont know what make or where to get them, so for now I will stick to the configuration that I have, but if someone can point me in the right direction it would be appreciated. I have a stronger recoil spring installed (couldnt tell you what %) but the rate of fire in full auto is much slower than with the plastic frame (I expected it to be a bit slower, and I am happy that it at least fires!), so I may have to fit high flow valves and see how that works, as I have extended mags x 2 for it, and one charge of gas usually lasts a couple of mags worth, so the compromise there doesnt concern me, if one charge lasts one mag worth of bbs, then that is all I need, I am not going to try and reload a pistol mag mid game, and it looks exactly how I wanted it to when I started out with the idea, so I am well happy, I just dont know what model to call it???

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Spencerman-

 

Nice work converting that G17 Slide to work on a G18C. I know a couple people in the past who attempted the conversion and failed. Which G17 metal slide is that?

 

It is the G&P version and can be got here http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/...il?prodID=17005 for a mere 40 bucks. Not wanting to sound cheap, I would love a nice steel beast, but I wanted to get the cheapest reasonable looking slide and barrel set in case it didnt work, I wouldnt want to be 120+ out of pocket!

 

Would I try it again? Probably not if I am honest, as it took me about three days filing and chiselling mere fractions of mms to make it all fit, and I am not the most patient person, but luckily I am stubborn or else it would have been in the bin! I was also lucky really that nothing ended up scratched up, so I didnt even need to refinish the slide, it looks fine (in the picture it looks a little shiny around the selector, but that is probably due to the oiling I have given it, as it looks like it was supposed to be there in real life!) and if I had had to, I would have probably had the slide reengraved to deepen the trade marks slightly, and would have also completely changed the serial number, similar to what you have had done with your initials, that is seriously slick, but as I didnt have to I will not bother at the moment. I also had to fabricate a couple of new pieces, nothing major, but some of the pins were not wanting to fit as tightly as I wanted them to, so I made new ones. I did away with the little grub screw that comes down under the rear sight to hold the rear pin into place which holds the selector switch in place. I wanted a solid pin to come down through there but to protrude up slightly from the top of the frame, therefor biting into the rear sight and holding that firmly in place without the need for super glue!! That all fits now so tightly, the tolerances are really nice, tight and solid feeling now with very minimal slide wobble etc. The next thing that I want to do with it is to wear the barrel slightly, polish or rough it up around the ejection port or something, not quite sure yet what exactly. I may get a second outer barrel, and ramp the front end and leave it a nice shiny silver, like you see in the movies where the live guns are modified to fire blanks, the barrels are pinned and the locating lugs are normally filed away, then the front of the ejection port is ramped so that the barrel doesnt need any force applied from the projectile to make it work. Anyway, I just kind of like the look, so I may try that. I also like the idea of a non railed frame.

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