Glock Picture Thread

[bondkiller]

my Glock family!

 

(top to bottom)

 

KJW G23

Stark Arms G19

HK3 G17 (w/full trademarks)

 

 

I'm thinking of getting a black WE/HK3 G17 to contrast with the bronze one and I'll dual wield them for indoor CQB with two drop-leg Serpas 

[pokerf@ce]

Nothing new under the sun, but here is my contribution:

 

 

TM Glock 17 Gen.3 

* Surefire x300 (RS)
* Guarder Coyote Brown Frame
* PGC metal slide & Outer Barrel.
* Nine Ball High Speed recoil spring
* Raven PDI Precision Inner barrel
* Guns Modify Tritium Night sights.

Rest is TM standard.

 

Edited November 9, 2013 by pokerf@ce

[Infadel]

Just been Stippling with my soldering iron and decided to try carving the bottom of the trigger guard with the help of the Iron =)

 

It's laying on Issue MTP and was painted to try resembling MTP somewhat

 

 

This was sent from a Hudl*

 

 

[NonEx]

Hmmm... It looks like that Glock has some sort of disease... Sorry man, but no go for me. :|

 

I hope my own stippling doesn ot come out looking like that.

 

EDIT: I can see how the above can sound a bit harsh, I don't mean to be, just stating my thoughts

Edited November 14, 2013 by NonEx

[uscmCorps]

I like the paint job.

[Robinio]

My TM Glock with guarder kit, waiting for an AKA Blow backhousing and a hammer bearing, I wonder if i'll get the GM Zero Hammer instead...

[Infadel]

Hmmm... It looks like that Glock has some sort of disease... Sorry man, but no go for me. :|

 

I hope my own stippling doesn ot come out looking like that.

 

EDIT: I can see how the above can sound a bit harsh, I don't mean to be, just stating my thoughts

No worries I was holding it in one hand and had the iron in the other so I was more concerned about missing the Glock and getting my fingers while stood upright close to an open window with high winds outside causing me to shake with a chill down my spine every time the wind blew in. Still haven't finished it yet though I plan to find where I may need more grip on the frame and attack it again =)

 

I like the paint job.

Thanks The guy that painted I believe now paints things for just cause airsoft

 

This was sent from a Hudl*

 

 

[Dj_komodo]

My little Glock collection

 

Stark Arms G19

KSC G19 (Second stippling job, horrible lower to stipple on)

WE G26 (First stippling job i did and it turned out great)

Stark Arms G17

KSC G17

WE G18C

 

Edited November 14, 2013 by Dj_komodo

[uscmCorps]

KSC G19 (Second stippling job, horrible lower to stipple on)

 

I recently (as in last week) discovered this myself. After stippling dozens (over 30 now) of replica and real Glocks, when I worked on a KSC G19 last week I discovered that the OEM (presumably Yih Kai) used a unique mix of polymer and metal shavings in the frame. I've seen this done before in casting plastics but never on replica Glocks. It basically gives the polymer a little more strength, but more importantly, makes it heavier for a more realistic weight and feel. In stock condition, it doesn't.t appear any different than regular black plastic but once you start sculpting and stippling it you discover very quickly that it increases the work time for sculpting by 4x, and the plastic doesn't stipple the same as regular Glock plastic. A real PITA,

[-wigs-]

Bondkiller where did you get that full fde glock

[bondkiller]

Bondkiller where did you get that full fde glock

 

it's a HK3 G17 that I got second hand, the previous owner Cerakoted it Burnt Bronze...the lighting makes it look SUPER shiny and more gold, it looks a million times better in person, less gold and more BRONZE like a bronze medal but more dull haha

 

better(?) pics of just the G17:

 

 

 

 

 

the barrel is a RA-tech steel barrel, that's why the serial numbers don't match...(if anyone noticed and is wondering)

Edited November 16, 2013 by bondkiller

[uscmCorps]

Here's pictures of the KSC G19 I recently finished. I tried to replicate the style on my RS BoreSightSolutions Glocks as closely as possible. I didn't do the edge lining since I have difficulty getting the depth and sharpness of the BoreSight ones. 

 

• KSC G19

• PGC G19 Slide kit

• 10-8 Performance Tritium Front Sight

• 10-8 Performance Rear Sight

• Vickers Tactical Slide Catch

• Frame sculpting and stippling by me:

- 360° Grip reduction and Texturing

- Finger grooves removal

- Undercut/radiusing at the trigger guard frame juncture

- Undercut/radiusing beneath the tang

- Side frame flats and trigger guard texturing

- Trigger guard glove bevel

- Mag Release Scallop

 

 

 

[uscmCorps]

The window closed to edit my last post, but here are some work in progress shots of the work done above to give a general idea of the steps involved.

 

After some heavy duty re-sculpting and polishing of the frame. Still has the generic KSC Glock front sight and slide catch:

 

Prep work for stippling. Tape to protect and define borders:

 

Stippling is completed, only minor clean up remains:

 

Total time for all work involved to get the final results seen in previous post: ~10 hours.

[dealda]

@DJ_komodo:

Nice collection, which Magwell do you use on your Ksc g17?

 

@uscmCorps

Thanks for this awesome turtorial. There goes my weekend.

 

[NonEx]

USCM, dat Glock o_O

 

Very nice!

 

That is kind of what I am going to be attempting with my Stark Glock 19, minus some of the re-shaping of the frame.

 

Thanks for posting the pics of the steps involved.

 

I think I might sacrifice my Stark Glock 18C frame for testing, since that gun is so hideous anyways (slide that is, terrible terrible mold seam lines...)

[uscmCorps]

When stippling any Glock, plan ahead as much as possible. Gather as many reference pictures by people who have done Glocks before professionally. Try and disect why they did what they did. I see a lot of people randomly apply stippling in areas that typically would not need it. Or apply a texture that is way too aggressive. Also remember that how a person holds a gun is a personal thing. Not everyone grips the same and may not have the same needs (open carry versus concealed carry). So not everyone requires the same stippling job. If you carry concealed, you may not want the side that contacts your torso to be stippled at all. Lots to consider.

 

And definitely practice first your stippling technique. The Stark Arms G18 would be a good idea as it will hopefully be a similar or the same plastic as what they used in your Stark Arms G17 (not always a guarantee and not all plastics stipple the same). Take your time and don't rush. If you choose to resculpt the frame, carve, shape, sand and polish it as comfortable/ergonomic feeling first as possible and then stipple it. Most of the work I do on a frame comes before the stippling (stippling only takes about 30% of the overall time). And before you stipple draw the lines with a sharpie or mask the borders with tape. That tends to be a much cleaner result than just freehanding the edges. At the end of the process you may find the texture is still too aggressive. If that happens brush it little by little with some light sandpaper until you get the texture you desire.

[Infadel]

I just broke the extra plastic off...

 

Oh well I still have most of the frame to go and for a first shot i'm pleased enough besides for me it needs to look good last

[Extraordinaire]

[NonEx]

Is that a Stark Glock 19 I am seeing ^^^

 

[-wigs-]

USMC I never thought to polish the lower after sanding, ingenious

Edited November 18, 2013 by -wigs-

[uscmCorps]

Yup. After dremeling I used to sand using 100,120,200,400,500,1000,1500 and finally ending on 2000 grit sandpaper. Nowadays I sand with 100,120,200,400,500 and then polish using the dremel with the polishing pad attachment (no polishing compound, just dry the dry pad) at a low RPM. You have to be careful because if you press too hard with the dremel and polishing pad you can still melt the plastic. But going slow with it, it saves a lot of time and you get a buttery smooth finish. The trick with the sandpaper (as is the case with any sanding job) sand the surface to the best of that grits capability before transitioning to a finer grit. I've gotten all the way to 1000 grit before when I noticed a deep scratch/gouge that the 1000 grit could not fix ... forcing me to go all the way back to the 100 grit and starting over in that one area.

 

*Patience* is key.

[Agent Hunk]

G17 Timberwolf and G18 in CAA Roni kit.

Edited November 21, 2013 by Agent Hunk

[Scottiee]

Here are my two, KSC/KWA Glock 18c and 19. Not heavily modified but both have Guarder steel mag catch, Guarder recoil rod and spring, uprated hammer springs and the 19 has an aluminum rocket valve to replace the standard plastic item and a mag extension from a 50rd mag.

I use an RA Tech co2 mag with the 18c, I get about 80 shots on one bulb, noise and blowback is much improved! I've added an extra length of spring to the recoil rod to help cope with the extra blowback power the co2 gives. The 19 is over ten years old and still going strong, it has the full Glock trade on the slide whereas the later 18 is partial trade

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Bando]

its a glock riiiight?

[Lone_Bullet]

I wish Magpul made a Glock lower for marui with the same feel of the FPG . Loved the grip on the FPG!