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thegunrunner

SIG Picture Thread

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Hey folks.

 

I just got the metal frame for my TM P226 today, and I've bee having a nightmare getting the internals transferred. I think I've managed to get everything in place. (If I hold the trigger bar in place, it seems to function normally). I'm having an issue with the right side spring, the V shaped one the holds the trigger bar. Part number p226-42. If someone could take a picture of how it's supposed to look, and Describe how to get it to look that way, I'b be immensely grateful.

Edited by SOUTHPAWMIKE

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I installed the Prime kit recently, and it was nearly drop-in. A couple of small filing issues. And, as my first go-around with the innards of a P226, getting the trigger group and the hammer group to go in simultaneously, in the right place, was definitely fiddly.

 

As a precaution, I took these photos for myself before I started (TM E2 stock pictured):

 

P226010.jpg

 

P226009.jpg

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Whats the plot in the book youre reading? (the text that`s below the lower frame) :D

Baby pink unicorn gets lost in forest and can't find its way home. The original Sanskrit version.

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They are very nice grips, a bit more aggressive than you'd expect from this kind of checkering (G-10 is hard). They are decidedly not a drop-in install on E2, either TM stock or Prime MBK. More details here.

 

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/203558-tm-p226-e2-with-creation-slide-or-prime-kit-anyone-tried-them-yet/

 

Much easier fit for standard P226s, I would imagine, which is, after all, what they're designed for, But the real steel Sig E2 grips won't work on airsoft (hammer strut difficulties), and I wanted something different to the stock TM E2 ones.

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A question for you Sig aficionados, I am thinking of buying Prime fake firing pins for both my Pgc old skool non rail 226 and for my other 226 which has now been fitted with Prime 228 kit. As never handled the RS I was wondering which would be the right one ??. Prime do two types :

 

1- Prime type 2

 

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/images/PRIME-PT-HCP-AS-115-2-AG-1.jpg

 

2- Prime type 1

 

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/images/PRIME-PT-HCP-AS-115-AG-1.jpg

 

Pictures are back to front(but right way up), so the deeper recess on the top one (type 2) and the (small recess, type 1) on the bottom one will sit on the left when fitted. Which one is close to RS visually, when looking hammer down ??

 

Thanks in advance.

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Which one is close to RS visually, when looking hammer down ??

 

It doesn't really look like that on the real pistol...maybe on the newer P226's? Regarding the fit, I know the Type 2 only fits on the newer PRIME kits. I tried fitting inside a PGC slide and the bottom face had to be filed down for it to fit. I've never used a Type 1 so maybe those are for slides other than PRIME?

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I've got one of these - as you might have been explaining (hard to tell) the pictures aren't back to front, flipped or anything like that - the main piece of the assembly is what's upside down in the pictures. When installed, the upper face of the black parts with be facing towards the muzzle of the pistol, and completely hidden from view. The Prime Type 2 is not 'type 2' so much as 'version 2' as far as Airsoft Global could tell me; it supersedes rather than alternates type 1. You might only be able to find Type 2 in stock as a result.

 

My type 2 fit my Inokatsu P226 without any problems (in fact, it was the easiest part of the entire goddamned gun!) and the Inokatsu is a fairly faithful replica of the Marui internally. Filing down the bottom face would be a fitting issue common to most MBKs, so I wouldn't necessarily think that one was taller or shorter than the other (though likewise I've never used a Type 1) but mine hasn't worn at the bottom at all. As to the realism, the first major problem is that my hammer doesn't appear to actually hit the pin, so there's that. I'd say the gap between them is at least 2-3mm. According to The Truth About Guns, this is also how the real pistol is designed;

 

 

Another nice safety feature on the gun is the fact that the hammer, when decocked, is nowhere near the firing pin. [...] With the P226, the natural state for the hammer is decocked and sitting just behind the firing pin (a few millimeters away, in fact) – not touching it. The spring isn’t under tension, and the hammer has no way of impacting the firing pin. When the hammer moves to strike the firing pin when the trigger is pulled, the hammer actually slingshots forward across the gap between the resting position and the firing pin, strikes the pin and snaps backwards again.

 

 

Our guns don't have the same locking bar arrangement, though, so they don't replicate the closing of that gap and as a result there's no witness marks on the hammer or the pin. As to the real thing, this is what a West German one (i.e., one with a pinned/folded slide) looks like;

 

P1130795.jpg

 

I'd say that the slice taken out of the PRIME Type 2 apes the slice taken out the real thing (on the left of the piece, looking from the rear of the slide towards the muzzle) quite well, so the Type 2 is probably the more accurate replica.

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Marushin P210-6 6mm pistol with Prime P210 NOVAK custom metal kit.

 

7285826280_265b1a0a4b_b.jpg

 

7285827164_8a41d59bbc_b.jpg

 

7285825694_19cf8da765_b.jpg

 

As P210 has long recoil spring guide, recoil speed is not good at all.

KSC M9's recoil spring fits perfectly. It will help P210 cycle faster than original.

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When I bought the Prime kit from Boom Arms, I also got the only firing pin they had on their website, which turns out to be a type 1. I tried sliding it into place on my PGC silver Sig and it seemed to be fine, but I didn't install screws and didn't cycle the slide.

 

It's installed in the Prime kit pictured above. It went in without any problem. When cycling the slide, the hammer did hang up very very slightly on the angled bit at the bottom, that acts as a kind of extension of the bump on the BBU, but after a little while it settled down. I can see some mild filing being needed in some or even many cases.

 

As for real steel, I've got to believe that these reproduce different designs that correspond to different periods of production or different versions within the P226 family. After all, it's been around for a while and there are many iterations of it.

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Sorry, just to go over this firing pin business again. The type 1 is for non prime MBK and type 2 it just for Prime MBK. Do they both look the same once installed? I want to get one for my sig as its nearly finished now, im just so short on cash i dont want to have to buy it twice. Thanks.

 

Oh an pics for the pic thread.

 

2012-06-14-213.jpg

 

2012-06-14-220_1.jpg

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Nice, i like your style ;), dissapointing though that the VFC suppressor is marked .45 and outer barrel 9mm, i considered just re spraying mine as its a lovely lightweight can.

 

Just fitted the same Hogues to another of my Sigs, alot of dremel work as i didnt go down the RS MSH, how about you?

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Yeah i was pev'd about the markings too, how did they f that up?! I might see if i can just remove that part, rather then spraying the whole thing.

 

Yeah, dremel too. Then i got the mbk, and didnt need to do it :( Meh, feels great and looks good to so im not that bothered i wasted all that time lol. Just got the Trijicon (replica) glow sights too, better then the glow in the dark ones i had. Just want that firing pin to finish it off now, any ideas which to get?

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Sorry, just to go over this firing pin business again. The type 1 is for non prime MBK and type 2 it just for Prime MBK. Do they both look the same once installed?

Just to reiterate my own experience. Type 1 fits in a PGC MBK slide and a Prime MBK slide. I believe the difference is design between type 1 and type 2 has to do with changes in design on the r.s. P226 over the years, and not with airsoft fitment. The type 2 has a bigger cut out on the plate that surrounds the firing pin. It will barely be noticeable when fitted.

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I see, thanks for going over it again for me. So for my sig above any firing pin i can get hold will do, it wont be glaringly obvious that its the wrong type for non-railed model. That it's a faithful recreation anyway lol.

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You might want to get an opinion from someone who knows their way around r.s. SIG-Sauers. P226s have been around for a long time, so my guess is that at some point in their history a design change was made, that is reflected (in part) in that cut-out near the firing pin.

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FYI, the Type-2 did not fit my PGC slide without some modification. I had to file down the base a bit, otherwise it was getting caught on the frame causing the slide to lock up. The Type-2 worked fine on my PRIME slides.

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I see, thanks for going over it again for me. So for my sig above any firing pin i can get hold will do, it wont be glaringly obvious that its the wrong type for non-railed model. That it's a faithful recreation anyway lol.

 

I have one Type 1 available if you want to avoid shipping from Hong Kong (customs fees etc.)

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That it's a faithful recreation anyway lol.

 

That was meant to say 'Not that its a faithful recreation any way'.

 

Thanks guys type one it is and squad 701 im pm'ing you ;)

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Marushin P210-6 6mm pistol with Prime P210 NOVAK custom metal kit.

 

7285826280_265b1a0a4b_b.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

As P210 has long recoil spring guide, recoil speed is not good at all.

KSC M9's recoil spring fits perfectly. It will help P210 cycle faster than original.

 

I'm unsure on how I feel about a p210 with novaks ... BUT.

 

Good GOD man, that is GORGEOUS.

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