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I just got my AIMS yesterday, and I am very pleased. In regards to the mag issue, I noticed this the first time I tried to seat that mag, and it didn't want to stay in right. I did, however, notice if I try to seat the mag a little higher in the magwell than normal it clicked in perfectly and didn't budge. In regards to the stock tangs, they are different, the VFC AIMS body looks similar to the bottom receiver in THIS picture

 

And that video is one hell of a demonstration on this AEG's durability!

Edited by ECRRRainman
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Thanks for the picture rainman, i appreciate it.

 

Just for the record my VFC magazine seats and feeds just fine in the gun.

 

I cant get over how much i like this gun. Yes, its weak but man, the gun actually has MINIMAL felt recoil, its really cool!

 

Also, the fact that the entire gun is steal just takes the cake, i finally have a toy i can abuse the everliving hell out of.

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can you post the picture of the rod that does the bolt blowback? i was thinking of doing it on my kalash since its a VFC copy :gun:

 

Check the first page, Nachos posted a couple pics of him disabling the blowback feature, which shows the rod that engages the slide to rack. There are some other internal parts of the gearbox that allow this to function too, I'm sure. I am not too certain that the Kalash's have the exact same capability though

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I think its only a cutout in the gearbox and maybe a hole in the piston. I honestly havent looked yet.

 

Guys, what kind of tool are you using to remove the cap and the selector switch? I watched the takedown video on youtube but i cannot for the life of me figure out what kind of pliers they're using.

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And what do you do? Turn counter clockwise on the "stud" on top of the selector switch?

 

Does it just screw out?

 

 

yep. =]

 

 

 

 

:Edit Note:

 

Somehow, in all my AIMS contemplation, I missed the fact that they had a blowback system and I have no idea how... but it's such great news I'll be ordering one in the next couple weeks. I absolutely love my 74u, and I'm somewhat of a VFC fanboy because of their build quality, and so far, it's kept up with a 110 just fine... it's one of the few guns I own that I'm not afraid to rough up.(Like a true AK of course. :D ) One of my buddies picked up the TM74mn, and I have to say the blowback had me smitten, but now that I've come to find this about the AIMS, along with the option of inexpensive 10packs of real cap mags, I'll definitely be picking one up by mid April. =] Oooooooh so excited!

 

(Oh, and question... maybe I'm just retarded, but I've been looking @ those elite cells on cheapbattpacks.com, and I'm not finding voltage anywhere... and I don't know the trick to mAh->V if that's how to figure it out. I'm thinking I'll probably pick up 2 8.4 sticks, one for the AIMS, and one to replace the intellect I have in my 74u(especially because there's room in my 74u for at least another 3 cells.). Anyone care on enlightening me?

Edited by crump3t
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Yessir, you are correct! The rate of fire with a good quality 8.4 pack is pretty sick. I havent tried mine with a 9.6 yet but i would imagine its pretty damned fast.

 

the voltage is set by how many cells make up the pack i believe each cell is about 1.3v for 7cells = 8.4v, 8cells = 9.6v, 9cells = 10.8v and 10cells = 12v

 

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Yessir, you are correct! The rate of fire with a good quality 8.4 pack is pretty sick. I havent tried mine with a 9.6 yet but i would imagine its pretty damned fast.

 

 

So if I read that correctly... the only way to up battery life(i.e.-mAh) without up'ing voltage is to increase the physical size of the cell?

 

I ask because I can usually deplete a full charged intellect in a full days skirmishing, but I have room for another 3 cells in the receiver, so I figured a larger number of lower output cells could equate to larger mAh... but there's no way in hell I'd put my 74u through an 11v lol. (Even though the manual says "rated for 12v" :huh: )

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The cell size isnt ALWAYS related to the MAH or capacity.

 

I mean, it is but it isnt. For example, there are 2000MAH elite AA sized cells and then there are 1500 mah elite 2/3 A cells.

 

I believe the largest 2/3 A cells that you can fit into an AK are 2000 MAH.

 

It is however generally the case where the larger the cells the higher the MAH CAN be.

 

Question for everyone. Has anyone noticed bad battery performance with their AIMS? You've got to appreciate the blowback however i cant imagine its a very efficient system since the piston and the rest of the drivetrain are carrying more weight on it now.

Edited by Magsz
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Question for everyone. Has anyone noticed bad battery performance with their AIMS? You've got to appreciate the blowback however i cant imagine its a very efficient system since the piston and the rest of the drivetrain are carrying more weight on it now.

 

Would have to agree i get a very short life from my battery with the blow back engaged, also i;ve had a strange number of fuses blow on me.

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I pulled my AIMS apart this evening to do some work on the gearbox and i decided that i wanted to upgrade the barrel while i was in there too. The only problem is that i cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove the inner barrel.

 

Im guessing i have to knock out the huge retaining pin on the front trunion but before i go whacking on the gun (again) id like for someone to answer my question. How do you remove the inner dang barrel? :D (also, which direction should the pin be knocked out in if it does indeed need to come out)

 

Here's some more info on the gearbox.

 

Plastic bushings...blech

Self shimming gears, semi blech.

 

Clear piston, blech although it appears as though its holding up just fine after a thousand rounds. No marks whatsoever on the actual piston but i really do not like the design of the last tooth, its way too small.

Well made aluminum ported piston head although i would prefer a polycarb. Then again, its a version 3 box and i dont shoot hotter than 350 fps. The piston head o-ring was not lubed very well. Or i should say it was lubed with a very strange whitish fairly viscous lube. I cleaned it off and used some radio shack lube gel on there instead.

 

Plastic spring guide, blech

 

No bearing anywhere in the spring assembly.

 

Very well made gears, these things are beefy and are definitely made of steel. The gears themselves werent really greased heavily. Id say that VFC skimped just a TEENY bit on the gear juice here and probably could have slathered just a bit more on there. The sector gear also has a sector chip on it but one that actually functions unlike the G&P sector gear+chip.

 

Clear tappet plate, again, kind of blech but kind of not. It seems durable enough and hopefully wont break anytime soon. I know i should have replaced it with a tried and true polycarb tappet but i really want to run the gearbox stock (minus a spring change) and see how many rounds i can get out of it.

 

The nozzle lacks an o-ring but quite frankly, its smooth as butter on the cylinder head and seals EXTREMELY well. Im going to go out on a limb here and say that the cylinder head and nozzle combo on my AIMS is THE best sealing combination of parts i have ever run across. Its extremely tight but at the same time as smooth as a babies *albatross*.

 

The gearbox shell itself is immaculate. Ive noticed that on the VFC scar and new AK replicas VFC seems to have changed the blend of zinc alloy they are using for their mechbox shells beause the shell is consistent in construction throughout. There are no visible impurities in the shell and it is one matte color throughout its entire structure. I am very impressed with the precise casting that they are doing on their shells these days. It meets or exceeds systema's level of quality.

 

 

Overall im impressed with the quality of everything in the box. Is it the best blend of performance parts? No, absolutely not but the day an AEG comes with everything i want is the day i hang up my airsmiths apron.

 

Im going to give the gearbox an 8 out of 10, its extremely well put together.

Edited by Magsz
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Thanks for the internal review Magsz, can you tell me what major differences this gearbox has from say a normal TM V3 gearbox due to the blowback system? I would just like to make sure my local gun technician can fix this thing should anything go wrong without too much difficulty putting it all back together

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barrel removal on VFC is same as in the dboys AKSU takedown I covered on here

 

gearbox out

pull out L shaped plastic bit next to the hop unit

unscrew hop unit from the plastic base it rests on

draw out the plastic base (it runs along channels inside the lower receiver)

 

draw out the hop unit and inner barrel (turn the hop unit through 90 degrees as you get to rear of the reciver if you need a little extra wiggle room)

 

older VFC AKs tended to have a 6.04 as standard and wasnt that bad an inner barrel Im assuming that current ones will still do so

 

wouldnt be too concerned about the auto shimming if you're turning over a 350 FPS box it might seem a little butt clenching but it holds up well in use

 

in general terms internal components on the VFCs tend to be a bit middling though nowt wrong with them - they're generally well put together which is half the battle and I'd avoid 'changing them for the sake of change' particularly if you're happy with a 350 FPS set up

 

 

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all that "clear plastic" is high strength poly carbonate, that stuffs pretty strong, I wouldn't worry.

 

in general terms internal components on the VFCs tend to be a bit middling though nowt wrong with them - they're generally well put together which is half the battle and I'd avoid 'changing them for the sake of change' particularly if you're happy with a 350 FPS set up

 

+1

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I made one mistake in my earlier comments. It turns out that the piston is NOT a standard piston. It appears as though there is a small rounded cutout on the end of the piston on one of the "grease grooves". This cutout is for the recoil rod.

 

Also, i wasnt able to get the hopup unit and barrel out of the gun in one piece due to the upper rear tang on the receiver. I ended up having to go ahead and push the inner barrel out through the muzzle break and then reassemble with the new barrel that way. Kind of pain in the but to assemble a hopup unit in the gun but overall, not that big of a deal.

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Some more findings:

 

1. The blowback feature isnt working as well as i had hoped. The silver connecting rod tends to dislodge itself from the bolt quite often. Im thinking a small dab of jb weld into the recess will prevent it from coming out until i physically remove it.

 

2. The gun eats batteries like there is no tomorrow with the blowback enabled. It is by no means an efficient system. I got less than 1200 rounds out of a fully charged 1100MAH battery running at 290 fps. Thats disappointing.

 

3. The box will not run a prometheus ms100 without binding up on an 8.4 volt battery, again, disappointing. Ive run plenty of guns over the years at 340 fps with nothing more than an 8.4 volt. The shimming is fine so thats not the culprit and i dont believe its the blowback feature but i didnt try the ms100 with no blowback before i removed it so that could have been it.

 

4. When i put the gun back together i was having an issue with the selectors. In order to select semi automatic i had to move past the detent 3-4mm's in order to get the mechbox to cycle in semi. I think the issue resolved itself somehow because all i have to do is move the selector into its detent and it will fire appropriately. Im not exactly sure what caused that.

 

Other than that the gun is still a delight and its my first foray into the world of AK's and im loving it so far.

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