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I attempted to skirmish with mine Saturday and I had some trouble. First problem was I wired the battery to the front foregrip and I did a poor job at soldering and connecting the extension, meh. But most importantly, the gearbox locked up twice while using an 8.4 volt battery. I was unable to get the gun shooting freely again on a 9.6 volt battery, so it looks like my AIMS only runs well with a 9.6 or higher

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My gun cycles just fine on an 8.4 but im using a semi decent pack, ie gold peak cells.

 

What kind of pack are you using?

 

Have you changed anything in the box? I used mine all day today and let out some pretty insane bursts and the gun didnt stutter at all.

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My gun cycles just fine on an 8.4 but im using a semi decent pack, ie gold peak cells.

 

What kind of pack are you using?

 

Have you changed anything in the box? I used mine all day today and let out some pretty insane bursts and the gun didnt stutter at all.

Sorry for the late reply

 

 

I am using an 8.4v 3500 mah NiMh battery pack that I have run in all of my AEG's

 

Other than that I havn't touched a single thing. Is it possible that my poor wiring job the the front has created some resistance thus making the battery less effective at turning the gearbox? My wiring job was rather shoddy

 

 

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Sorry for the late reply

 

 

I am using an 8.4v 3500 mah NiMh battery pack that I have run in all of my AEG's

 

Other than that I havn't touched a single thing. Is it possible that my poor wiring job the the front has created some resistance thus making the battery less effective at turning the gearbox? My wiring job was rather shoddy

 

Its possible. I ran about 1500 rounds through my gun this weekend and it performed like a champ. Im really very impressed with the consistency of the gun now. After breaking in an sp90 in the gun im getting 332-333.4 fps on each and every shot.

 

Im also having no issues turning over the gearbox with the blowback disabled with an 8.4 volt battery. In fact, with just an 8.4 volt the rate of fire is pretty wicked. I expect to see an increase when i finally switch over to deans connectors. Not sure why i havent done that yet.

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this may seem a strnage question but does anyone have any experience of re-engaging the blowback, a couple of weeks ago my blowback rod on the outside of the gearbox snapped in half (vfc where very good and i had a few replacement in my mail box in a few days can;t say more about there customer service ) but im having a few problems reinstalling the new rod.

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this may seem a strnage question but does anyone have any experience of re-engaging the blowback, a couple of weeks ago my blowback rod on the outside of the gearbox snapped in half (vfc where very good and i had a few replacement in my mail box in a few days can;t say more about there customer service ) but im having a few problems reinstalling the new rod.

 

What kind of problems? Its really quite simple. Just take the rear end of it, place it vertically into the cutout on the gearbox then slowly lower it so that the front portion of it will sit in its hole on the bolt.

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After having seen the VFC AIMS in person, if you skimp and get a cheaper version, you're really missing out! That thing was beautiful external wise! Especially the receiver. I'm not too interested in an AIMS myself but I'm really looking forward to VFC's AKM and AK74m MUCH more now.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I believe I have solved the issue with my AIMS blow back not running on an 8.4v battery. It appears I reinstalled the recoil spring backwards which seemed to cause a significant amount of friction, enough to jam the gearbox entirely. I have reversed the spring and she is working much better now. Are there any other things I can do to reduce friction of the bolt so I don't run into the problem again in the future?

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I believe I have solved the issue with my AIMS blow back not running on an 8.4v battery. It appears I reinstalled the recoil spring backwards which seemed to cause a significant amount of friction, enough to jam the gearbox entirely. I have reversed the spring and she is working much better now. Are there any other things I can do to reduce friction of the bolt so I don't run into the problem again in the future?

 

Uh..what?

 

The recoil spring cant be installed backwards unless you have a different spring than i do.

 

Im confused bro, can you give us more info?

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Right, the spring that goes on the guide rod that the bolt rides on?

 

If so thats not a unidirectional spring bud, im not sure why it was giving you problems when you installed it "backwards".

 

Honestly, if the rifle works...who cares lol.

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At one end of the spring the coils seems to be warped which is why it was creating friction when one end of the spring was forward and not the other.

 

But this saturday I had the chance to skirmish with my AIMS all day and for the most part I was very satisfied. The two set backs I ran across was once again an 8.4v battery would lock up every now and then and the only 9.6 battery I had began to lose power and thus cause the gearbox to jam up like it does with an 8.4v battery in the final scenario while I was under serious enemy fire :angry:

 

I disengaged the blowback feature for the last bit of the game and it went back to performing very well as anticipated. All I need now is a higher Mah 9.6v battery or just run the gun without the blowback

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Some more findings from todays skirmish.

 

1. The blowback must be used with a 9.6 volt battery otherwise you will get lockups. Some stupidly good quality 8.4's will run it just fine but a 9.6 volt is recommended. Without the blowback enabled i would NOT use this gun on a 9.6 volt battery. The rate of fire is just plain stupid.

 

2. The second you get your gun i would STRONGLY suggest you locktight the piston head screw. I destroyed my gun today after the piston head either shattered the piston or the piston head screw backed out. The entire piston is in pieces, the piston head looks like i shot it with a 12 gauge and believe it or not, the last tooth on the piston shattered, yes, shattered.

 

Again, im not sure if this was because the piston head screw backed out or the piston shattered but im going to say that the weak point of the gearbox is definitely that piston. Im really not too fond of clear plastic parts that have no fibre reinforcing in them.

 

Having said all of that, im 90% sure that the piston head screw backed out and then destroyed the piston simply because of the way the gun "died".

 

LOCKTIGHT THAT SCREW!

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Sorry to hear about your gun Magsz, I will have to tighten that thing up when I crack mine open here in the near future

 

I attached the CYMA side mount to my AIMS for this past weekend's skirmish and it worked wonderfully, and it was dirt cheap!

 

$14.80 shipped to your door

 

AIMSGear.jpg

 

AIMSEoTech.jpg

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Its all good, ive already replaced the parts and its back to normal for the ak47.

 

One thing that i will say is that it was my own fault. I normally check those kinds of things but i figured VFC would have done it for me at the factory. In my efforts to leave the gun as stock as possible for testing purposes i ended up signing my guns death certificate lol.

 

Ah well.

 

One thing that i will say is that besides the fact that i had this catastrophic failure the piston itself, ie on the parts that had "normal" wear on them seemed like it was holding up nicely. I will say that the angle of engagement between the sector and the piston is slightly off since i had quite a bit of wear on the first tooth. Other than it was wearing normally.

Edited by Magsz
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  • 4 weeks later...

I need some help with the AIMS. In WGC and UNcompany it says the inner barrel is 502 mm, but it seems erroneous to me. I don´t think there´s enough room in there for that. VFC says 455 both for the AIMS and the PMC, standard ak barrel, but just to be on the safe side,

Can somebody measure the inner barrel so I can get the correct length? It´s not necesary to measure it perfectly, just want to know it´s not 502 mm but around 455-460.

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