Smurf Posted July 28, 2008 Report Share Posted July 28, 2008 I have actually just finished installing it. It was a lot more straight forward than I thought it was going to be, I will do a more detailed installation guide when I get some time, but for now here are a couple of pics. This is the wood furniture set as it arrived from the states. A picture showing the fit of the stock to the receiver. A close up of the installed hand grip. A picture showing the complete installation. In total, it only took about 2.5 hrs to modify the wood set and get it installed. I took some pictures of the installation of the hand grip but I did not get one of the stock before I installed it because I did this part the other night. I need to strip it down again to look at fixing the gas leak so I will take some more detailed pictures then. The wood furniture adds some extra weight to the gun, this is good because the extra weight of the stock makes it more balanced. I just need to sort out a gas leak issue, and then I will be very very happy with it. Thanks go to sabrepilot9000 for letting me know how to remove the hand grip. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lupus78 Posted July 29, 2008 Report Share Posted July 29, 2008 (edited) It's absolutely gorgeous! Thanks a lot for your trouble (installation pictures etc)! Nice to know it can be done... Can you give some guidance how to remove the hand grip as well as show what kind of modifications were required? Happy hunting! Edited July 29, 2008 by Lupus78 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dentonboy Posted July 29, 2008 Report Share Posted July 29, 2008 That looks great! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smurf Posted August 2, 2008 Report Share Posted August 2, 2008 As promised here is a more detailed installation guide for the wood furniture set. To remove the fore grip you will firstly need to remove the two allen screws which are on the left and right hand side of the outer barrel next to the receiver. They will have a small amount of threadlock equivalent on them so they might need a quick sharp twist to crack them loose. Next hold onto the outer barrel and magazine tube and pull them away from the receiver, the pump and inner barrel will remain attached to the receiver, and without much force the magazine tube should slide free of the pump mechanism. Now you will need to unscrew the metal ring with the plastic bushing inside it on the end of the pump mechanism. This is what keeps the fore grip attached to the pump mechanism. Once this is removed you can slide the fore grip off the pump tube. This is the dissasembly of the fore grip complete. You are now left with the stock fore grip which you need to look at closely and take note of the channel which is in the base of the inside of it. This is what we need to replicate on the wood fore grip to make it fit onto the pump tube. This groove accomodates the metal bar which is on the underside of the pump tube, this metal bar is what holds the pump grip in the retracted position by locating into a cut made in the magazine tube. We need to take this into consideration when removing wood from the replacement foregrip because if you remove too much it will be quiet loose and wont take much effort to pull back the grip, or if not enough material is removed it will require too much effort to pull back the grip. Here is a picture of what my foregrip looked like before and after just enough material was removed so that I was happy with the breaking strain on the pump. I used a dremel equivalent hand tool with a small router bit to cut the groove into the wood, just remember to stop and try fitting it to the pump tube so you do not remove more material than you need to. If the fore grip does not slide on without the use of force then you have not removed enough material to accomodate the metal bar on the pump tube. Once you have removed enough material and are happy with it, the reassembley process is just the reverse of the dissasembly method. Now onto the stock, the one which comes supplied with the shotgun is removed by first removing the two screws which are on the butt of the stock. They were hidden under rubber caps on mine, once these have been popped off the screw heads should be visible, the rubber butt will thencome away from the stock. Next you will need a longish reach philips screwdriver to reach into the stock to remove the single bolt which is holding the stock onto the receiver. What I now found out after removing the stock is that the stock bolt is not long enough to reach through the replacement wood stock. This is because the wider part of the hole in the stock is too shallow for the bolt to reach through. From here you have two options, you can either get a long wood drill bit and make the wider part of the hole longer, or you can do as I did because it worked out cheaper which was to go and find a suitable replacement bolt which is longer. The picture below shows the plastic stock bolt on the top, a 150mm coach bolt in the middle and the bolt I bought on the bottom. I managed to find at my local hardware store some M8 x 150mm long bolts which with a bit of shimming would be long enough to fit the wood stock. The bolts which I got had a 13mm hex head on them, luckily I had a 1/4" socket drive set which had a long enough extension bar to fit down the stock hole. If you do not have a socket set I also found that roofing bolts can also be purchased in M8 x 150mm, and these have a cross head on them so a long reach screw driver would work instead. Now you have sorted out how to fix your stock onto the receiver you now need to make the stock fit the receiver. Firstly you will need to straighten up the edges on the raised part of the end of the stock due to them being angled slightly, this same raised section is found on the plastic stock. Next you will need to remove the material which can be seen at the end of the channel in the picture, so that the channel goes through into the hole which the fixing bolt will come through. After this give the stock a quick fitting check on the receiver. You will most probably find that it does not fit correctly at this stage, I found this down to channel in the end of the stock not being deep and wide enough for the hump on the end of the trigger group. You will need to remove some material bit by bit and keep trying to push it onto the receiver to check the fit. I used a small file set and also a sharp utility knife to remove the excess wood. Here is a picture of the end of my stock after enough wood was removed to make it fit correctly. Once enough material is removed and the stock fits the receiver without and gaps showing you are ready to attach the stock using the new fixing bolt. You will need to get the fixing bolt and put it into the stock and see how much the bolts sticks out of the receiver end, the length of thread sticking out needs to be similar to how much sticks out on the plastic stock with the original fixing bolt in. This is just to stop the bolt from going into the receiver too far and pushing into the trigger mechanism. The picture below shows how I shimmed my bolt to make the thread sligtly shorter so that it did not stick out too far. Once you have shimmed your new stock fixing bolt attached your new wood stock to the receiver and stand back and admire your new and better looking Mossberg M500. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lupus78 Posted August 3, 2008 Report Share Posted August 3, 2008 Thank you! Very detailed guide indeed! Can't wait to get mine! (Both the gun and the stock set are on their way.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lupus78 Posted September 22, 2008 Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 (edited) My mossberg is finally finished! I came from my holiday trip and finally had time to install the wood parts. Thanks to these great instructions, my installation took less than hour. And goddamned this gun is beatiful. Fits my Vietnam-outfit perfectly. I actually used this gun yesterday in outdoor skirmish. Pretty nice. And mine hasn't had any leaking or such... Yet. Edited September 22, 2008 by Lupus78 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PwnedByBrandon Posted December 11, 2008 Report Share Posted December 11, 2008 Hello, I am planning on buying the full stock 6mm version of this gun. Thanks so much for making this review, and thanks to everyone who chipped in and added their little bit of information. I was wondering if this would fit on the gun and if it would hinder the performance. http://www.combathunting.com/product.cgi?g...amp;product=247 Thanks! ~Brandon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isamu Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 Necropost, I know I know... but I would like to ask if someone can compare this 5BBs shotgun against the Tercel 3BBs shotgun, full metal/wood version, THIS, to be precise Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
airsofter0866 Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 They both shoot 5 BBs, I believe the Tercel is a rebrand but even if its not they are about the same quality. Also I put Private Parts steel loading arms on my acm M500 6mm and they fit with absolutely no modification. Maybe you guys already know that but I just want to put that out there. Especially since I heard all steel loading arms required modification to fit on the ACM. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isamu Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 On Rsov theres a little review and says it shoots 3 BBs and not 5. Unfortunatly I dont know where to buy those steel loading arms, I know I can get them on Airsoft GI but they dont ship to europe, which is a shame Dont know if tercel is a rebrand, but its the one making the Gas USP, so maybe its a new company Quote Link to post Share on other sites
airsofter0866 Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Oh I just saw on gunner that it shot 5 so maybe that was a mistake. I got my loading arms from airsoftextreme.co but try wgcshop and redwolf. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isamu Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Didnt find there either, but its not such a big deal since i have no money to spend right now and I can allways get one and ask someone to just copy the stock ones with better materials, shouldnt be too expensive Hope BE made a version in real wood of their 5BBs shotgun... shooting only 3 is the major let down of the Tercel Version Quote Link to post Share on other sites
B-2 Posted June 19, 2009 Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 any ideas where you can buy one in the UK. im having trouble finding a site that has it in stock. any help would be appreciated as im desperate to get one!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nakagawa Posted October 25, 2009 Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 can anyone put up an instructional guide as to how to replace stock pumping arms with the private parts ones? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frontiers Posted October 25, 2009 Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 Tercel = Both Elephant (they changed their name to get rid off the old bad reputation they had, i guess affected some sales ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Punkypink Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Slight necropost. anyone's got any idea if the Realsteel TacStar stuff will fit without much hassle? Thinking of gettting these for a M500 http://www.tacstar.com/shotgun-grips.php http://www.tacstar.com/universal-barrel-shroud.php cheers in advance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 The m500 airsoft guns can take RS stocks and grips but will require modification. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Punkypink Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 The m500 airsoft guns can take RS stocks and grips but will require modification. how much modification? something a dremel will be able to sort out, or would i need more heavy duty tools? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Horsem4n Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 (edited) a dremmel will do it. basically, all you really need to do is unscrew the spring steel tab that holds the pump in the open position (its a pretty useless part anyway) and make room for the larger rib (where the dremmel comes in) that the stock nestles itself on when attached. 1 thing though, i dont know if that front grip will be long enough for the mount tube. though, you can cut a length of the proper size of PVC pipe to complete the length. that is, if its the grip im thinking of. Edited February 12, 2010 by Horsem4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
matt.bee Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Was a 20 min job to fit real wood foregrip and stock to mine, just a bit of dremmelling/sanding to do. Makes a difference to the 'heft' too, feels much more like a real shotgun now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gzus11 Posted April 8, 2010 Report Share Posted April 8, 2010 the tac star fit without modification, you need to remove the spring plate and do something to hold in the loading arm pins Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 Another random question off track; What size is the O ring in the firing valve. My shottie keeps leaking out of the barrel and i can't get it to stop, replaceing the o-ring might just do the trick me thinks. If it helps i have a parts diagram that shows it as part 80, but i dont know what brand the diagram is from . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Horsem4n Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 (edited) um, i never checked the size, but if you go to the hardware store and find the wall of o'rings (usually in the plumbing section), its usually easy to find the right size if you bring the o'ring with you. you should probably get a replacement for every one thats in there. whats leaking is the vlave. the valve is essentially just an elongated pistol mag valve, but the gas is fed in the opposite direction. Edited April 9, 2010 by Horsem4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 whats leaking is the vlave. the valve is essentially just an elongated pistol mag valve, but the gas is fed in the opposite direction. I have noticed this, its quite a stupid design feture TBH, the gas forces the valve open! I put in a spring spacer to help keep the valve closed but it hasen't helped. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian24 Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 Maybe it helps to unscrew the rod on the end of the valve a little further? I've noticed that on one gas fill I couldn't fire more than 5 shots of bb's until I unscrewed it a little further. When I screwed it the whole way in, my gas leaked from the barrel, the moment I filled it... Another problem : the little oring on the fill valve is missing and replacements keep falling out... I have the same problem with other GBB mags as well (TM and WE) they don't leak but they have to be there for a reason... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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