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Hedganian

Steyr AUG FAQ and Helpdesk

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Did you get the correct type of nozzle for the AUG? There are several types available, and a lot of confusion about which one(s) is suitable for which AEG.

What exactly is the issue with the AUG nozzle(s) Hed'?

They're longer than others, but is there anything else?

I've searched, but couldn't find anything more specific than the "make sure you get the right one" type comment. ;)

 

The reason I ask is, I've just discovered something with the AUG gearboxes I'm doing for you.

I just couldn't get the FPS higher than 280-300 on them.

Your one with the metal nozzle is fine, but the other three's plastic nozzles don't go fully into the hop unit on any of your three outer barrels.

There's a lip in the hop unit bore, approx 7-8mm from the entry. The bore forward of it is smaller than the main part of the nozzle, and stops the nozzle from reaching the hop rubber.

They all stop short of the hop rubber inlet lip by approx 1mm.

AUGHopChamber1.jpg

'A' is the main bore, 'B' is the lip and 'C' is the smaller diameter bore.

 

I machined off part of the larger diameter section of the nozzles, and the FPS increased by around 60-80, up to where it should be for each 'box basically, depending on the spring spec in each.

You can see how much I took off...AUGNozzlemod1.jpg

 

And you can see how the nozzle was being prevented from moving fully forward...

AUGNozzlemod1a.jpg

'A' shows the same point on the nozzle(s).

'B' shows the difference in tappet plate position with the unmodded (top) nozzle, and the modded one.

'C' is the position of the hop rubber inlet.

'D' is the front of the nozzle, before the mod.

 

I was scratching my head for an hour or so earlier (actually, that's putting it really mildly...I'd have been pulling my hair out if my head wasn't shaved), swapping springs, making spring spacers, trying different barrels, nothing would bring the FPS up to anywhere near what it should have been, hardly surprising with a 1mm gap between the nozzle and hop rubber <_< .

 

I've just checked my Son's JG AUG, the lip is further forward into the bore, by approx 2-3mm, so it wouldn't have been an issue in that.

 

Mark another frustrating morning down to experience :P

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Ah. I hope the modification doesn't affect the seal on the regular-style hop-up units. Oh well, I've got more metal hop chambers if needed.

 

The issue with the air nozzles seems to have a lot of factors involved. There's the length of the nozzle, the outer diameter before and after the "step", the length of smaller nozzle after the step, the diameter of the central hole for the air to flow through, etc, etc....

 

No-one can really explain which is the right type of nozzle to use, as it seems to vary a lot from one set-up to another. Various types of nozzle are labelled (A, B, C, etc) but I've not really seen a list of which type goes with which AEG as standard.

 

The third-party metal hop should have been the same as the stock plastic one, with regard to mating well with the stock air nozzle, but obviously not. Who designs these things, honestly? It wouldn't seem so hard to get something so basic correct.

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Ah. I hope the modification doesn't affect the seal on the regular-style hop-up units. Oh well, I've got more metal hop

chambers if needed.

It won't adversely affect their performance with any other type/design of hop unit, the chamfered front end that seals against the hop rubber is unchanged.

 

The third-party metal hop should have been the same as the stock plastic one, with regard to mating well with the stock air nozzle, but obviously not. Who designs these things, honestly? It wouldn't seem so hard to get something so basic correct.
The hop units on all three barrels (H-Bar, Standard and Short) are the same, with the lip the same distance in from the opening.

The H-Bar one is a little different, in that it has a slightly smaller step between the large and small bore sizes.

 

I see no reason to have the two different bore sizes, it doesn't achieve anything. :unsure:

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Hi, I have the all-metal hop unit but haven't fitted it yet because I had noticed the issue in Docv400's post above when I looked at how the whole assembly would fit together. I don't really have the tools to correct so if anyone has any bright ideas on how to reduce the nozzle step with a limited tool range then i'd be very grateful!

 

Cheers

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The hop units on all three barrels (H-Bar, Standard and Short) are the same, with the lip the same distance in from the opening.

The H-Bar one is a little different, in that it has a slightly smaller step between the large and small bore sizes.

 

I see no reason to have the two different bore sizes, it doesn't achieve anything. :unsure:

 

They should all be identical, no idea why any one should be different. Sloppy machining and poor quality control? <_<

 

 

Teaser - try fitting it first to see if you actually have a problem before worrying about how to solve it.

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Hedganian,

When I upgraded my gearbox I put everything together and it was clear that the parts were not going to mate properly, I saw the same problem exhibited as in the post above. I am currently putting off replacing the hop unit as I said. If anyone knows of an after-market nozzle that fits I will just order that.

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The step seems to be in the same position, but doesn't the front end of yours have a smoother chamfer/radius than that one?

 

TheTeaserUK. You could probably reshape your nozzle by putting it in the chuck of an electric drill, front end in the chuck, with the drill in a vice (or strapped down to a workbench).

Then spin the drill and lock the trigger (if it has that facility, or get someone to hold it on), and use a small file to carefully reduce the diameter.

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Does anyone know where to get the PGC chambers? all of the HK shops I've looked at have been out of stock.

Also, it seems like buying a metal nozzle is kind of a shot in the dark, especially with so many of the better ones being out of stock everywhere. any suggestions?

 

 

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I bought a hop recently from uncompany, despite it showing out of stock on the site it arrived soon after ordering. Perhaps mail them about stock levels, not exactly the most updated website but they do have a lot of unique parts. Other than that I have not seen any others in stock.

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Right having been through the thread i have a few questions which have been half answered by others but i am still unsure. Anyway onto the question.

 

I have got a jg aug a2 via a swap a few days ago and after having a shoot with it, it seems that there may be a problem with trigger bar/trigger mech as a whole. When i begin to pull the trigger back for semi i think i can hear the gearbox pre-cocking. Either that or the motor is not secure and is moving when current is begin passed through it. Any other ideas as to what the issue could be?

 

Also there seems to be very little tolerance between semi and auto. When testing i found that semi would sometimes fire full auto for perhaps 3-4 shots then stop, auto works fine but there seems to be alot of movement required in the trigger to actually get into full auto first time as apposed to firing semi first then pulling back into auto. Could this be as someone has previously mentioned a "moldy cheese" piece of plastic in the trigger mech? or something else entirely?

 

Another quick question i forgot about. I know that people use mosfets to allow them to run with lipos, but could you use a mosfet to replace the mechanical trigger to produce the same semi auto two stage trigger but electrically rather than mechanically?

Edited by Jon L

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it would be almost like having two micro switches near/at the trigger - one to activate the Semi then one to activate full.

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Right quick and hopefully simple question for you all. I managed to break one of the trigger contacts on the gearbox whilst replacing the gearbox into the body and when i test fired it the contact broke off. I have searched google and this thread but seem unable to find eithe rreplacement trigger contacts or the trigger unit itself. So my question for you is are there any retailers out there producign these items? Or is there anothe rmethod of fixing this problem?

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That's a copy of the Nitro-Vo side rail. I believe I linked to it in one of the very early posts in this thread. I use one, it's okay, but not mil-sim...

 

Jon L - You have a problem with the trigger contacts on the gearbox itself, not the trigger? Could you add a picture of the damage? Could you simply resolder the connection back to the gearbox?

Edited by Hedganian

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ok i have a question i hope its the right place to post,

i have been looking at the pics of aug's and seen a few with 3/4 dif barrel lengths by this i mean in one persons case he had 1 gun and a few barrels for quick change and dif style of game play ie sinper/cqb, my question is have they bought a few guns and just kept the barrel or can you buy new barrel .

i know the aug barrel comes off inc the inner barrel so it would be very easy to go from cqb to sniper (as long as you dont have to a riffle for each barrel lol lol)

I am going to be buying the jg aug very soon as a change from my m4's,i can just make myself buy the ca gun due to cost :angry:

 

I have read through but cant find the answer to my question, Iknow i could buy things like the phantom kit but thats not what i am after,i just want to be able to play one game cqb then maybe play a sniper game ect :P

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I'm sure this issue is addressed here, but never mind. You are, of course, referring to Project AUG. :D

 

You cannot buy the barrel assembly parts of the AUG on their own, you need to either find someone breaking an AUG or get one to break yourself.

 

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