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Hedganian

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sorry us dollars

and shipping is $10.00 for front end assembly, and $22.00 for full stock, sorry but his receiver auction ended, but I'm sure he will have another one up soon

Edited by skag187

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hi, me again,

 

I am looking for a few odds and ends for my AUG, and was wondering if any of you could help.

the part I am looking for is the plug filler (for lack of a better word) that goes into the stock on the opposite side of the sling swivel (I also am looking for 2 of them) as I would like to completely remove the rattling sling swivels, and fill them in with these.

 

and if anyone has any advise or how-to links to splitting the AUG body that would be great

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I'm having a problem with my AUG, it misfeeds and doublefeeds a lot. I've removed the gearbox and fired it with the battery attached, apparently the nozzle doesn't cycle properly. Sometimes it is fully extended, sometimes it's in between. What could be the problem of this ?

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I'm having a problem with my AUG, it misfeeds and doublefeeds a lot. I've removed the gearbox and fired it with the battery attached, apparently the nozzle doesn't cycle properly. Sometimes it is fully extended, sometimes it's in between. What could be the problem of this ?

 

Anyone ? All add some further info: I haven't opened the gearbox yet because I don't know what I'm looking for. Everything seemed perfect when I installed it. Someone suggested it could be the O-ring on the piston head, any other suggestions ?

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Phuncz, it could be a binding nozzle. I've had this happen on several of my guns, the stock non-air-seal type nozzles started binding on the cylinder heads, causing weird feeding/FPS fluctuation issues.

 

But you said that when you fire the mechbox outside the gun, you observe the nozzle being in different positions. Do you mean it ends up in different positions (this is normal and not a cause for problems), or does the limit of the forward travel of the nozzle vary between shots?

When the nozzle is fully extended, try pushing it all the way in with a finger, then release it. Does it spring forward with no resistance? If so, the problem may not be a binding nozzle, but may be a too short one.

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In full auto, the cycle seems to be perfect when active. When semi-auto firing, the end position sometimes differs from semi-extended to fully extended. If it is fully extended I can push it in and back without problems. The nozzle size is not the problem, I checked it against a Guarder Nozzle for AUG and the original one: they match up. I used the one that came with the Guarder Cylinder/piston upgrade kit specifically for AUG.

 

So I guess it's not the gearbox ? My first assumption was the hopup, but the H-nub seems to be positioned perfectly, I installed a 50° Soft Bucking from Guarder, the standard hopup housing which isn't cracked and a Tanio Koba Twist barrel. I tried with the hopup completely off and completely on, the BB's react like before when stock: going down too early or going up into infinity. But then I started noticing the doublefeeding and misfeeding, which seemed to come from the weird gearbox behavior I described above. Didn't know that was normal :)

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The twist barrels aren't designed to workk with hop-up, so that's at least part of your problem.

 

Otherwise, see the early posts in the thread for the section "I'm having Feed Issues with my AUG" which may well help you.

 

 

As always, please read the information provided to see if your question has already been asked and answered before posting.

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The ending/stopping position of the nozzle will vary when shooting, this is normal. It is caused by motor inertia after the cut-off lever cuts the power on semi, and on full auto the geartrain/piston/nozzle may stop in any ol' position after you release the trigger.

But if the nozzle and tapped plate are functioning correctly, the nozzle will always reach the same forward-most position for each shot, regardless of which position the nozzle ends up in when you stop firing.

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The feeding problem in the start of this topic talks about replacing it with a metal one. Is there an indication to look for on the stock plastic one before I replace it ? Also, since you mention the tappet plate, I hear a soft scratching sound when I push back the nozzle. It sounds like scratching on a vinyl plate. At this time I don't know if it's the nozzle rubbing over the cylinder head tube or the tappet plate rubbing along the cylinder head.

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OK so it's probably not the gearbox. I'll be testfiring it with every mag I have on Sunday. Maybe I can get some more clues with that. Thanks for your help !

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The feeding problem in the start of this topic talks about replacing it with a metal one. Is there an indication to look for on the stock plastic one before I replace it ?

 

 

If you've got a stock plastic nozzle, sooner or later you're going to have feed problems, because the plastic that the mags are made of appears to be stronger than the plastic nozzle. If your nozzle appears distorted in shape or size, has cracks or an uneven finish, or anything like that, then that's your problem. Look at getting a metal feed nozzle, subject to the advice earlier in this thread. If you have a TM AUG, then the Iban will fit, if you have a CA, then it won't. Other makes - not sure.

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The plastic nozzle seems to be ok, I test-fired 3 types of mags: TM standard cap, TM high-cap and MAG mid-cap. For some strange reason, semi auto seems to work almost flawless now, except with the high-cap which doesn't matter since I'm not using it anymore. Anyway, full auto works perfectly, semi auto doesn't doublefeed anymore. Strange... Maybe the gearbox wasn't installed correctly ?

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If there was a problem with how the gearbox was seated, then simply removing and replacing it may have solved your problem. The gearbox in the AUG can sometimes wander rearward if the panel at the back where the battery compartment is isn't fitted correctly.

 

TM AUG hi-caps are notorious for feed issues, so you're best off binning them anyway. For the others, make sure the mags are lubed from time to time, and also lube the internals of your AUG, and that will help keep things running smoothly.

 

If you have any more problems, feel free to check back here.

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Just wondering what's the best way to split the aug body apart? i tried a chisle on an old JG body and it seemed to work but before i try the CA one does anyone have any tips for the best procedure?

 

Thanks

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I'm beginning to suspect the battery for the dodgy semi-auto firing, I don't know if that's possible but I'm having the feeling the battery is maybe letting me down. I tested it in an M4 which had a stock 8.4v 3000MAh if I'm correct, the gun's ROF was horrible, maybe half of what it should be. It's an Intellect 1600MAh 8.4v NiMH pack and I'm thinking about a 9.6v NiMH pack, so 8 cells instead of 7. I'm willing to mod the backplate to fit a larger battery, but since I don't have any soldering skills, moving the fuse isn't really an option for me. Suggestions point to cheapbatterypacks.com but I'm not sure which type and which cells would fit with modding. I've read various topics but I'm not sure what would certainly fit...

 

FYI: I upped the spring from the standard 280fps to a 330fps, along with a new cylinder/piston set.

Also, I lost one of those square screw sockets that are needed for the backplate, where could I find them ?

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Just replace the screws with suitably-sized ones from a local hardware or electronics supplier, somewhere like Maplin may well have what you need.

 

Forget NiMH, you want to use LiPo packs. They're superior in every way - smaller, more powerful and have better charge/discharge characteristics than either NiMH or NiCd packs. You can read up about LiPo batteries here.

These are the ones I'm using with all my airsoft AEGs, and they're now coming back down in price again, it would be foolish not to dump NiCd and NiMH and convert to LiPo.

 

You don't need soldering skills to move the fuse on an AUG, or to modify the backplate to fit a 2100mAh LiPo that will perform better than your current packs. Simply take the back plate off, put the fuse holder on the inside with the gearbox instead of outside with the battery, and put the backplate back. Problem solved.

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Well I'm not ready to commit to LiPo batteries just yet :) Safety issues also worry me, I'd never trust it in the house... It might be overreacting but I just don't trust them. Maybe later but right now I'm not convinced yet :)

 

About the fuse: ah I saw some posts not being clear how you should put the fuse, I thought you had to move it's position on the cable. OK that's not a big problem then :)

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There are no prohibitive safety issues - LiPo packs don't just explode or catch fire, any more than other battery types do. Just read the thread I linked to rather than putting stock in rumours and heresay.

 

As I said, it would be foolish not to convert to LiPo batteries, but it's your choice at the end of the day.

Edited by Hedganian

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Another case of someone having the tools/parts... and someone having the idea..

 

But not the tools/skills/parts :D

 

JG AUGA1 into a replica of F88A2 :D

 

Unfortunately there are no shots of it during the game yesterday - blast.

Nor a shot of it with the ACOG on as well - boy did it look fantastic. It would be interesting to see what it would be like with an ELCAN instead. The ACOG is lighter, however.

 

As you can see from the tapped holes, there is still a mount to come and the scope (that I was going to mod, but since I will be out of the country) will be modded to imitate the Ozzie one. (remember, that this was the A1 model that had a scope. :))

 

F88A3rs.jpg

 

F88a3rail.jpg

 

F88a3raill.jpg

 

f88a3rear.jpg

 

f88a3sight.jpg

Edited by Wege

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