Corkie121 Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Hi all, Before I ask anything, I'd like to apologise if this has been mentioned previously, the search function won't work on my ipad for some reason. Anyways, I picked up a completely knackered JG aug, minus the gearbox, from a friends parts bin and am attempting to source a gearbox to get things moving with fixing the gun up. My question is whether or not it has to be a specific aug v3 gearbox or whether I can use any v3 and just change the feed nozzle? Thanks for any help, Corkie. Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 V3 with AUG specific: - Top rail - Motor cage - Trigger unit - Selector mech - Longer cylinder head nozzle to support the xbox hueg AUG nozzle Easiest to buy an AUG specific GB. Link to post Share on other sites
Corkie121 Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Thanks for the response, was planning to ignore the usual aug trigger in favour of semi only with a microswitch and mosfet. I assume that the other issues still make it easier to buy the aug specific GB? Cheers, Corkie Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Afraid so. If you have the extra bits it's not too much of a bother to pop them on a standard V3. Link to post Share on other sites
Corkie121 Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Ok then, thanks for the help! Cheers Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 You can buy a full original GB for a JG from evike. think it is around 50... Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 The mag wear/feeding issue: Its an old issue. On brand new Steyrs there are two tabs beside the mag release which pushes the mags forward and upwards allowing BBs to feed. From landing on prone or gradual wear from magazine insertions it will either wear or break, which leads mags sitting too low and hence does not feed. The solution is either in the longer magzine feed nozzle, which needs to be filed to spec, or to reinforce the tabs by adding metal inserts or eproxy to strengthen the tabs. On Tappet plates breaking: This is a common issue with most third party manufactured parts. Normally the tappet plate should return to battery and be stopped by the front of the mechbox. BUT because of dimensional differences between mechbox, gears and tappet, the tappet is now stopped by the sector gear shaft, and instead of a compressive force which the material can take, it becomes a tensile force upwards, snapping the flappy part of the tappet plate in a small number of rounds. It also leads to bad airsealing. Solution is simple. IT IS NOT finding tappet made with better material, it is fixed simply with a round needle file to carve out the area where the tappet hits the sector gear shaft, filing it away until the tappet is stopped by the mechbox and not the sector gear shaft. You can also use a dremel. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 So do most Aug hop ups have an issue with holding adjustment? I used an alignment mark on mine and after a mag I would see the adjustment wandered out a bit. I made a tighter fit by putting a ring of electrical tape on the back of the adjustment wheel and that has so far created a much more consistent hop up overall. Anyone else have a way to shim these hop up? Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 EDIT: so pertaining to my last post.... I made a shim for the hop up using electrical tape. I applied a ring of it to the back of the hop adjustment ring. Hop is very tight now and doesn't move even after long duration of use. Made my hop a lot more consistent of course. Not sure if this has been said before but recently I have been doing mods to the rifle to increase consistency and range here they are: Floss mod for hop up bucking, sure some of you have heard of it, some may even utilize it. After I did this mod my fps variation went from 405-415 to 404-406. A lot more consistent. Barbour poll teflon wrap on inner barrel, this took my grouping from around 10x10 at 100 feet to about 6x6. I also did a little mod to the outer with electrical tape. I put one solid ring around the very front of it right before the area that goes up against the upper receiver, and I put a ring around the flat area where the screws are that hold the inner barrel in the outer. Doing this made it much more sturdy within the upper and probably contributed to the grouping consistency. Just so you know the 405ish fps is w/ .32g BB's. Currently using a m135 prome spring. effective range of around 300 feet Wondering do you guys know any way to dampen the sound of these rifles? My AUG makes a distinct snap, assuming due to the heavy spring. Anyone have ideas? I was thinking of capping both hop windows maybe trying to fit some Styrofoam inside the body and possibly putting a suppressor on the end. Link to post Share on other sites
imprzaWRC Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Hi Mike, I use a Classic Army M14 hop up chamber set and it's hop dial is much tighter than JG's hop up chamber set. I had originally thought that G&P's would be the same as Classic Army's, as in it has a very tight fit and you can't shim it further. In the JG, I could shim the dial so that it doesn't wobble, but the Classic Army's hop chamber without the shimming still has better grouping. So, my assumption is that electrical tape mod to the dial is not that good. As for dampening the noise, you can look up one of the sticky here and give that a try (bye-bye sorbo, cylinder damper mod - or something like that). Link to post Share on other sites
Baddbaz Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 If you want any ideas for dampening the noise . Search for shadow aug . This was a first factory built special that had sound proofing that really worked Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 Hi Mike, I use a Classic Army M14 hop up chamber set and it's hop dial is much tighter than JG's hop up chamber set. I had originally thought that G&P's would be the same as Classic Army's, as in it has a very tight fit and you can't shim it further. In the JG, I could shim the dial so that it doesn't wobble, but the Classic Army's hop chamber without the shimming still has better grouping. So, my assumption is that electrical tape mod to the dial is not that good. As for dampening the noise, you can look up one of the sticky here and give that a try (bye-bye sorbo, cylinder damper mod - or something like that). I have used many hop up chambers, and so far many of them create fps inconsistency. I have used the G&P hop up, the PDC hop up, a TM stock hop up, and a JJ airsoft hop up. so far the plastic ones, as in JG originals and the TM are the only ones to have consistency, just the knob was loose. I am probably going to try aluminum foil instead of electrical tape as it is more rigid. but so far the movement with the electrical tape is extremely minimal(more so non existent) and shimming the hop arm helped as well. EDIT: Oh and so far the PDC one is the worst. I do wonder if I just got a defective one, though I can't test that theory as they are no longer made or sold. Link to post Share on other sites
imprzaWRC Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 My apologies, the sticky (bye bye sorbo) I meant was in the other forum you posted. Not here. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 Looked up the shadow AUG.... as I have found and I am sure all of you have and apparently as the makers of the shadow aug have the majority of the AUG sound comes from the gearbox area. What they did was put some type of fiberglass/cotton material around the gearbox. Apparently in order to do this you have to glue the stuff to the gearbox, split the body, place the gearbox in once side, and pop the other side back on and glue it down.... I'd really rather not go that far.... Though it seems my only choice. Link to post Share on other sites
DizBukHaPeter Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 Is that Steyr A3 project still on the table? I have a real steel a3 and a spare A3 rail. The rail on mine is a later version which is shorter. It has 23 slots, earlier rails had 25 slots. Also, military a3 rails are even longer with 26 slots and taller than than the civilian A3. I dont have a micrometer but my rail is 2cm tall and 28cm long. BTW, the Steyr A3 style has been discontinued in the US for the newer A3 SF which is called the M1. Its similar to the A2. Just ordered and Marui AUG high cycle as its the closest thing to the A3. Heres a vid of a really rare 5.56 XS AUG. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePg-mjysPRY&list=LLt1YHpWiq6LtEvNyHICyWvg&index=1 Heres my A3 with the Nato stock and factory 1.5x scope. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 The project is always on the table I just don't know if someone has access to a CNC machine like that, or if you can get us a 3d model of the rail/upper receiver. I have access to a 3d printer but not large enough to make the rail.Nice RS AUG though, I plan on buying the A3 as well just need to find a way to get myself 1800 dollars In the airsoft area... has anyone ever dropped the aug and the gearbox broke the backing plate off the body that holds it in? this has now happened to two of my bodies, not from a high fall either, and the rest of the body is OK just nothing to hold the gearbox in. Anyone have a way to fix this? I was going to drill a hole right behind the gearbox and just put a bolt through the body, hell it would probably be even more secure then original. Any other ideas though? Link to post Share on other sites
imprzaWRC Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 If it's just the top rails, you can probably take multiple photos and upload it to any online photogrammetry software to get the 3D Scan data. I mentioned probable because I'm not sure about the legallity of reversing gun parts though. Link to post Share on other sites
DizBukHaPeter Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Nice RS AUG though, I plan on buying the A3 as well just need to find a way to get myself 1800 dollars You can find an A3 for less than 1600 if you shop around since Steyr has discontinued them for the M1 model and all the stores are clearing them out. If you go used, I wouldn't pay more than 1500. Anyways, I'll try to get some pics of the rail alongside a ruler. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted November 27, 2014 Report Share Posted November 27, 2014 Oh so anyone ever have an idea on how to resecure a gearbox if the screw points on the body that the backing plate goes into broke? Still thinking about slamming a bolt through the body.... Also another thing... Anyone ever stretch there mag springs when they get to weak to feed properly? I did this and it brought life back to the mags, but it seems to much life. on the mags with stretched springs when they are fully loaded (60 BB, TM small cap) they will shoot the first round then jam or misfeed, but if I only load them to 40 rounds then I can get the whole mag out without a hitch. seems I gave them to much spring pressure maybe? Link to post Share on other sites
blam360 Posted November 28, 2014 Report Share Posted November 28, 2014 you can leave the mags loaded overnight to relieve some spring tension. rinse repeat until you get the desired performance in the mags Link to post Share on other sites
Jibbity Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Oh so anyone ever have an idea on how to resecure a gearbox if the screw points on the body that the backing plate goes into broke? Still thinking about slamming a bolt through the body.... Also another thing... Anyone ever stretch there mag springs when they get to weak to feed properly? I have successfully used the JB Weld epoxy putty to secure T-nuts in place of those broken body tabs. It should be stronger in the long run. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 I actually broke the bottom screw hole now on my damaged black body, so no point in jb welding those nuts in place now... but I will keep that for future reference, thanks. So people I had an idea.... most sound from an airsoft gun comes from the gearbox right? The shadow aug which came damn close to silent used some form of cotton/fiberglass to make it as quiet as it was... but the draw back to that is you couldn't really get the gearbox out without tearing it all out with it..... Not very effective. So I had an idea.... and I was wondering if anyone ever tried it... what about sorbothane? Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted December 7, 2014 Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 So I went ahead and tried the sorbothane. First I tried just the sides of the body but I found you needed to put something on top as well. In order to get anything on top I wasn't able to put the breach plate back in. I also got another breach cover and sealed up both sides of the body, not just one. Now I did this to a JG AUG, can't say it's effects on a CA. Comparing it next to another aug shooting it is at least half as loud. The pop out the end of the barrel(without the suppressor) I'd say is louder now then the gearbox noise. I could make it a good bit more quiet if I could find a way to seal the bottom seam on the body. If I hold my hand over it it is even quieter. Now the major issue I have with this.... gearbox was a pain in the a** to get in.... getting it out.... well I haven't even tried that yet. It wouldn't be so bad if the top piece of sorbathane isn't in, the top is what really makes it a pain to get in and out. Also something to note: the newer jg bodies have been reinforced in some areas, where the backing plate screws in and along the body more dowels have been added along with them using some different type of glue. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 So guys... recent issue.... FPS has dropped dramatically. I run a 135 spring, 509 6.03 barrel, full seal cylinder, fps when spring was new was 410 fps with .30g bb's.... after the spring broke in I had a good steady 390 fps with .30g bb's... that lasted a few months, and lots of shots later, randomly my fps dropped to 370, stayed there about a week, then it dropped to 360, then 350, and has now gradually gone down to 300 fps....I have tried four different buckings, two different hop units, two different nozzles, all have the same or close to the same results. I was thinking either the spring or the piston O-ring/cylinder but when I check compression by hand it is good. I am at a loss here, any ideas? Link to post Share on other sites
Probotector Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Have you made sure to decompress the spring after playing? Link to post Share on other sites
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