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Hedganian

Steyr AUG FAQ and Helpdesk

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hey guys, just wondering if any one has used the king arms AUG midcaps before: http://www.airsoftarmoury.co.uk/product_in...6f142932a293ede

If so do they feed well? Reason im asking is i had king arms m16 midcaps and the misfeeds were terrible

 

I have 2, one works perfectly the other is sh*t no reason for it they look and load exactly the same. <_<

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I've heard that it has to do with mold lines in the feed channels there- the follower catches on them and snags. If you smooth them out it they should be fine. Or, maybe if you shave down the sides of the follower? I dunno.

 

Unfortunately I don't know how to open them up, cuz I'd like to be able to fix a few of my KA M14 Midcaps but..

 

 

 

Is there anywhere to buy a new wiring harness for the AUG Ver 3 other than picking up an entire spare gearbox? One of my AUGs managed to lock the gearbox and melt the plastic trigger parts on the gearbox together, which then led to the melting of the battery. It desoldered the wires off in the battery!

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I want to add a MOSFET to my AUG. How do I wire it in?

Newdiagrameureka2-2.jpg

What the heck is a MOSFET? Here's an explanation.

 

I want to add a Capacitor in the grip of my AUG. How would I go about this?

This $10 upgrade increased my AUG's rate-of-fire from 21 BB/s to 25 BB/s. It took me about 2-3 hours without a guide.

How does this work? Here's an explanation.

I used a 22,000uF Capacitor that was about the size of a "C" battery. (I purchased from DigiKey.com [uS] 16V 22000uF Capacitor)

You will need:

  • Heatshrink
  • Low Resistance Wire (I used Dean's 16AWG telfon-coated)
  • Your Capacitor (I recommend a 16V 22000uF Radial)
  • Soldering Iron
  • Solder Resin
  • Knife or Wire-stripper
  • Wire Cutters
  • Glue
Below are thumbnails hints on how to do this:

IMG_0440.jpg

The side of the capacitor with the grey stripe is the negative (black) end. Glue the wires onto the body where the grip curves into toward the magwell.

 

 

 

 

IMG_0437.jpg

Use a soldering iron to "melt" room for your heatshrink-wrapped pair of wires. Then either GLUE or cover the assembly with leftover plastic. I did the later and melted it until it was smooth. It doesnt interfere in anyway with the magazines, in fact, I get less wobble now.

Below is a picture of a "after" and "before" doing the above steps to give the reader a better idea.

IMG_0439.jpg

 

 

 

AUG-CAP-Step1.jpg

Here is how your hole "punching" should look. Red arrows were added to highlight hole placement.

Use a hot (I used a 25W) soldering iron and "punch" holes for the wires to be ran.

Make sure the holes are JUST big enough for the wires. This will keep you from loosing too much structural integrity and eliminate the risk of BB's getting lodged into the crannies.

 

 

 

IMG_0421.jpg

Here's another look at how to run the wires around the magwell.

 

And then wire it to the back however you prefer. In my current AUG, it is wired to the bottom of the baseplate-rail. I used Dean's plugs to connect this Cap-assembly to my gearbox so I could remove the gearbox.

Edited by The_AUGfather
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pic of the "dead skin" around the gearbox:

 

That looks like great stuff :) thanks bob i'll try to find some on ebay !!

 

I want to add a Capacitor in the grip of my AUG. How would I go about this?

:shocked: a capacitor so big it looks like it could kill a man!!

Edited by tome

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That looks like great stuff :) thanks bob i'll try to find some on ebay !!

 

 

:shocked: a capacitor so big it looks like it could kill a man!!

 

It definitely sends sparks flying when I ground it to a screwdriver (plastic handled of course!).

I've never been shocked by it and I dont want to. :wide-eyed:

USE CAUTION!

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Great posts there, AUGfather.

 

A wiring diagram for the capacitor mod would be helpful, though.

 

Also - maybe I've been in a cave for a while, but what's the deal with this mosfet stuff? What's the point?

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Great posts there, AUGfather.

 

A wiring diagram for the capacitor mod would be helpful, though.

 

Also - maybe I've been in a cave for a while, but what's the deal with this mosfet stuff? What's the point?

 

Oh my sorry, here ya go:

Newdiagrameureka-4.jpg

Your wire lengths will vary and capacitor position will not be next to the gearbox, but it tells you where the wires go.

 

 

Read up on MOSFETs, they give typically 5-30% more rate of fire (depends on the gun, electrical system and voltage of the battery), saves trigger contacts from being fried by the use of higher-than-stock voltage batteries and DRASTICALLY increases trigger response.

Capacitors typically do an additional 3-20% (depending on the uF of the capacitors) and also DRASTICALLY increase trigger response.

 

My AUG cycles very quickly now, and the difference is very noticable. In fact, the cycle is about as close to "instant" as could be possible.

Edited by The_AUGfather

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The wiring diagram would indicate that he is, in fact, using both devices, as would his explanatory text.

 

I might ask the guy who currently has my AUG for gearbox reapairs about fitting a mosfet to it, see if he can do it while he's got it.

Edited by Hedganian

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Yes I use a MOSFET, 2 SMD 750 Resetting fuses (in parallel), 2x sets of Dean's plugs in the butt and a capacitor in the grip. As far as the seem lines being more visible, if you are stingy on wire-lengths, layout everything carefully and test the fit as you go then there will be no fitting problems. Its definitely a tight fit with my 9.6V INTELLECT nunchuck battery, but everything fits without seams or a bulging buttplate.

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  • I want an AUG-based sniper rifle, with scope. How can I make one?

     

    The role you describe is fulfilled in the real steel by the H-Bar-T. This is essentially the AUG H-Bar with the Special Receiver in place of the 1.5x sight, allowing other, more powerful, optics to be used.

     

    24hbsp.gif

     

    There is a bit more information here

     

    For airsoft use, the Boom Arms H-Bar kit can be fitted to what is sold as the AUG A2 (It's not really the A2 version of the AUG, but never mind), than a suitable scope added. Use a 650mm inner barrel.

     

    You will then have something that looks like this:

    2359904864_0c69c73a87_o.jpg

    But with the scope from this:

    2061007760_b034bd4815_o.jpg

     

    Full-auto firing can be disabled by removing the contacts from the back of the "trigger" piece of the gearbox. Suitable internal gearbox upgrades can then achieve any muzzle velocity you require.

     

    OR you can go the Action RAS Sniperroute and get something that looks roughly like the AUG A3, in a bad light, if you squint a bit. <_<

     

    ACT-AUG-SNIP-L.jpg

     

    As for the Phantom - there is no real-steel equivalent to discuss. Personally, I don't like them and know little about them. You'd be better advised to check with Stunt if that's the route you want to take.

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If that Action kit was aluminum, I would consider picking one up, grabbing an A2 charging handle and some aluminum plating (to fix that terrible carrying handle) and work on making a fire selector for a true AUG-A3. I've always wanted to do that, but I dont know if that kit is aluminum or pot-metal.

Anyone know?

 

It would be a great fix for the AUG's naturally stubby sight radius (and RIS length).

 

 

Also, many people have asked me "What about AB MOSFETs? How do I put those in?"

HowtoAB.jpg

Edited by The_AUGfather

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I'm sure I've discussed this elsewhere, but just in case it's not here: The Action RAS kit is completely made from aluminium. And to the best of my knowledge, the AUG A3 has no "fire selector" switch but continues with the two-stage trigger approach which characterises the AUG.

 

Come on then, explain what these different mosfets do, the pros and cons of each type and why we should fit them....

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Er...I already did, in my PM to you :P

 

The standard trigger switch contacts in an AEG (or the selector contacts in an AEG that uses them) are not really up to the job of switching the high current that the Motor can draw, which is why they burn and pit so quickly.

MOSFETs switch the current without the physical contacts, just using the trigger switch(es) (and the selector plate contacts if your AEG has them) to 'trigger' the MOSFET.

Because all the current is going through the MOSFET, your trigger (and selector) contacts will last forever, practically, and won't affect your ROF even if you left them dirty/pitted/burnt.

It's like replacing your Tamiya connectors with Deans, you're getting the best possible current flow to the motor without wasting any power through poor contacts/connections.

Have you never tried connecting a battery pack directly to the motor and seeing how high the ROF is?

On most guns you could probably drop a cell (e.g. go from 8.4V to 7.2V) and get almost the same ROF without all the wiring, connectors and switches in the circuit.

After replacing your connectors and fitting MOSFETs, the last improvement to make is rewiring with heavier guage/lower resistance wire.

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The links to Evike in the big first post seem to have broken, so here are new links for anyone looking to source AUG barrel options:

 

complete steel barrels:

Commando barrel (Use 363mm inner barrel), Carbine barrel (Use 455mm inner barrel), Standard barrel (Use 509mm inner barrel)

 

Steel flash excluders:

Standard AUG A1 style, Birdcage A2 style, Commando style

 

Miscellaneous barrel parts:

Reinforced standard barrel (Requires silencer adaptor to fit), Carbine barrel (Requires silencer adaptor to fit), Barrel/silencer adaptor (Required to fit the preceding two barrels, or to replace the entire outer barrel with a silcener)

 

EDIT: Doc - I know you explained it to me in PM, but that doesn't help others reading this thread, does it? :P

Edited by Hedganian

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And to the best of my knowledge, the AUG A3 has no "fire selector" switch but continues with the two-stage trigger approach which characterises the AUG.

 

Yeah the A3 uses the same fire select system as the previous AUG models,

 

2711447134_2cdc30e9a5.jpg

 

2710636675_9265480b4f.jpg

 

Mosfet fitted as standard,

2711428728_3962f207ea.jpg

 

2711446110_52dbe4d433.jpg

 

2710614035_9c31eef49f.jpg

 

7mm Bearing bushings,

2710615459_89026b064a.jpg

 

The Mosfet again,

2711432816_3a4ef3c002.jpg

 

2711435452_2f39189c1d.jpg

 

Bearing gear axels,

2711438408_31c3400011.jpg

 

Edited by beretta

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Yeah I just got the JG AU-3G also, Very rigid and sturdy gun. Definitely a good buy.

Notice the reinforced gearbox casing. Comes with an M130. The motor has very strong magnets too, far more so than my hi-speed or EG700 motor. I can pick it up with the motor-housing with a simple screwdriver (via magnetism)

 

auga3fire.jpg

Optional 3-rd burst selector?

 

Anyways my plan is to make a STANAG A3 out of this AU-3G (above post) with OD stock and furniture. Perhaps an A2 handle. i will fix that terrible carrying handle also, and ideally it will look very accurate.

I'll have time for my project after August 5

Edited by The_AUGfather

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Nope.. that is "bolt-release"

Oh, well that should be a fairly easy modification, although non-functional, it would at least add to the looks.

 

I'm not real caught up-to-date with AUG lore... why isnt the bolt release in the charging handle with the A2/3's? (like it is with the A1) Was it just finnicky?

 

nevermind, it makes sense, faster reloads!

Edited by The_AUGfather

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The links to Evike in the big first post seem to have broken, so here are new links for anyone looking to source AUG barrel options:

 

Speaking of Evike, anyone know where else I might be able to get one of those RTS rail things?

 

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