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Hedganian

Steyr AUG FAQ and Helpdesk

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well, I'm heading to bed after a VERY long AUG day. big game in two days and I tried to work out all of its problems and upgrade it. I've worked out many gliches, and upgraded it, And I have only one problem left. Since I don't really understand how the trigger assembly works I thought I could ask here:

the mechbox doesn't end its cycle at the right spot (one o'clock, when the air nozzle is fully extended), instead it continues a bit, and withdraws the air nozzle. as a result, there is a very big power loss, and lots of feeding problems. on full auto it stops at a random spot.

I've fitted an active-breaking MOSFET, and it doesn't help much.

(it's a CA aug, now fitted with element 300% torque gears but I think it had the same problem with its stock gears for the last month)

 

Does anybody have an Idea why this happens? Or can point me to a guide/diagram how the trigger works, especially the part where on semi it should stop at 1 o'clock?

 

Thanks,

Erez

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the 1:00 o'clock timing is a myth. nozzles normally do not stop at its most forward position without intervention. the leak is probably due to the nozzle not fully seating at the mouth of the bucking or some other cause.

 

if you want the nozzle to be at its most forward point, you can fire one or a few semis, checking each time by looking down the bb feed channel. but its not really necessary.

 

or you can get a fet-based fire control computer that will reset your mek to initial state each time you release the trigger.

 

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Hey guys. Bit of an interesting problem I've got, and was hoping one of you would know whats going on.

 

Anyways, I picked up a Gaurder SMG adapter(on a lark since I found one nib for $20). It went in fine, no issues. That said, when I tried to screw on an aug flash hider it got stuck. The threading seems almost like its both too fine, and set back too far.

 

I tried to reproduce this failure using both a Marui Knights Silencer, and a CA33 flash hider, and they both went on fine. Is there anything about the AUG flash hider that makes it unique? I experienced this problem with both a standard A1 flash hider, and one that came off of a buddie's JG A3. I'm clueless, and frankly, irritated since it looks ridiculous as is.

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I have a post over in the "Sniping Haven", but I'm not sure if the AUG gurus get over there much.

 

I'm upgrading my AUG and I ran into a couple problems:

 

 

1) The spring guide did not fit on the Echo Gearbox. I had to file off some round part to get the box back together.

 

2) The Systema Piston head did not fit either. I had to file open the holes on the sides of the piston head in order to get it to fit the poorly shaped “nubs” on the inside of the gearbox.

 

3) The stock hop-up is SUPER tight. It felt like I was going to tear the bucking when I installed the new barrel. I was able to install the stock bucking with several squirts of the silicon lube. I assume this is normal, but still irritating.

 

a. I assume I can’t use the H-Nub with the stock hop-up, due to the design of the nub lever. Can I install the H-nub in the metal G&P Hop-up?

 

b. If I can’t use the H-nub on the stock Hop-up then I don’t think I can use the Element bucking. The stock bucking on the Echo1 has a “nub” built into the bucking. Without something extra to push on the “smooth” bucking, I don’t think I will get any hop out of the hop-up.

 

c. Even with the hop-up turned all the way up it still seems to be a little under-hopped. Any suggestions?

 

Here is a link to my other thread:

 

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...howtopic=149501

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Hey guys. Bit of an interesting problem I've got, and was hoping one of you would know whats going on.

 

Anyways, I picked up a Gaurder SMG adapter(on a lark since I found one nib for $20). It went in fine, no issues. That said, when I tried to screw on an aug flash hider it got stuck. The threading seems almost like its both too fine, and set back too far.

 

I tried to reproduce this failure using both a Marui Knights Silencer, and a CA33 flash hider, and they both went on fine. Is there anything about the AUG flash hider that makes it unique? I experienced this problem with both a standard A1 flash hider, and one that came off of a buddie's JG A3. I'm clueless, and frankly, irritated since it looks ridiculous as is.

 

 

To the best of my knowledge, the thread on the TM AUG's flash excluder is standard 14mm negative, as used on just about every AEG barrel out there. I've certainly had no problems with any of my replacement flash excluders.

 

I'd take your "SMG Adaptor" and throw it in the bin (not really) since it's about as much use as a chocolate teapot. See one of my earlier posts for the barrel options you should to be looking for...

 

Or just use a silencer. :unsure:

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Hi chaps,

 

I'm working on upgrading an AUG for a chum, and since someone else messed with it, it's got the classic feed issues caused (apparently) by a damaged feed nipple. He's ordered a new metal one from Airsoft World (£10), and we'll fit it when it arrives. Does anyone have any hints on installation, or a link to a guide? It looks like it could be tricky unless it just simply unscrews or pushes out.

 

TIA :)

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Why does it look like it would be tricky? Have you actually taken the AUG apart, or even looked at the exploded diagram, as linked on the first page of this thread?

 

Replacing the feed nozzle is easy, and inolves undoing the two screws that hold the plastic gearbox retaining plate in place, removing the gearbox, sliding out the feed nozzle united, unscrewing two more screws and removing the nozzle from the unit. Refitting is the reverse.

 

Of the entire process, getting the gearbox in and out is the hardest thing.

 

Of course, you need to be aware that the Iban nozzle does not fit the CA AUG due to minor size differences. I have not tried it on other clones, so don't know about JG or BE or any of those. I know for use it fits the TM.

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I'm having a lot of trouble locating a spare part no. ST-41, specifically the plastic tube portion of it. Mine shattered (don't ask how, I'm not quite sure) and now I can't secure the hopup. Anyone know where I can find one? I've done plenty of google searching, but I can't seem to find it.

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Why does it look like it would be tricky? Have you actually taken the AUG apart, or even looked at the exploded diagram, as linked on the first page of this thread?

 

Replacing the feed nozzle is easy, and inolves undoing the two screws that hold the plastic gearbox retaining plate in place, removing the gearbox, sliding out the feed nozzle united, unscrewing two more screws and removing the nozzle from the unit. Refitting is the reverse.

 

Of the entire process, getting the gearbox in and out is the hardest thing.

 

Of course, you need to be aware that the Iban nozzle does not fit the CA AUG due to minor size differences. I have not tried it on other clones, so don't know about JG or BE or any of those. I know for use it fits the TM.

Please accpet my humblest apologies for missing the tiny little "link" buried in all that initial information. As my original post alluded, I'm new to the AUG, so haven't your obvious breadth of knowledge, or disdain for those without it. :blink:

 

Thanks for the rest of the more constructive part of the answer though :)

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Why does it look like it would be tricky? Have you actually taken the AUG apart, or even looked at the exploded diagram, as linked on the first page of this thread?

 

Replacing the feed nozzle is easy, and inolves undoing the two screws that hold the plastic gearbox retaining plate in place, removing the gearbox, sliding out the feed nozzle united, unscrewing two more screws and removing the nozzle from the unit. Refitting is the reverse.

 

Of the entire process, getting the gearbox in and out is the hardest thing.

 

Of course, you need to be aware that the Iban nozzle does not fit the CA AUG due to minor size differences. I have not tried it on other clones, so don't know about JG or BE or any of those. I know for use it fits the TM.

 

Jumping on people's asses for asking questions at the "AUG HELPDESK" is silly, Hedganian.

Just answer people's questions or don't; they shouldn't be insulted for asking a question here.

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Asking a question that has already been answered is redundant and wastes everyone's time. Just like getting offended on someone else's behalf, or seeing insults where there are none. If either of those things applies to you, please take your Political Correctness and/or fragile self images to another thread and stop wasting my time.

 

This thread was created - by me - to answer the questions that I kept being asked over and over again. The point is that people with a question would *READ* the information already presented and most of the time they'll find the answer without needing to trouble anyone else.

 

The question as to why does it look tricky is a genuine enquiry as to whether the person in question had actually tried to take the nozzle out and failed, or was just peering into the stock and going "Scary in there". The purpose of this enquiry should be obvious, in that in the first case different and more detailed advice would be needed.

 

I trust that explains things adequately. Oh, and trust me, if I start insulting people, it'll be *REALLY* obvious. Until then, you might want to stop jumping to conclusions, any offense caused is the product of your own imagination.

 

Anyone needing further help with any AUG related hassles not covered in the previous pages, feel free to ask below and I'm sure one of the regulars and/or knowledgeable people will be around to help you out. Anyone wishing to take offense for no reason, please go away.

 

[/Off Topic]

 

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Snippy today, aren't we? :lol:

 

So... if you could have just pointed me to the part of the TM manual that helps me to dismantle the CA AUG I'm working on, you'd have missed out on all that fun. :rolleyes:

 

I bow to your greater ego.

 

In other news, if this £10 metal nipple sorts out the feed issue, it'll be happy days. I've already fixed the gearbox, re-shimmed it, repaired a crack in the outer barrel where the hop-up screws in, fixed a broken motor brush spring that some idiot had knackered, and experimented with lipos... all without opening the receiver, apparently. Terribly fiddly work ^_^

 

Might be an idea if you remove the word "Helpdesk" from the title, just in case people get confused. shrug.gif

 

</sarcasm>

 

Sorry mods :unsure:

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Going back to the H-bar mod, as I am trying to source or think of ideas to IMITATE if not replicate, it leads me to believe that what Boom-arms have done is source the actual bipod for the Hbar AUG, rather than making one themselves.

 

The muzzle, on the other hand, appears to be not quite right, but I am willing to concede if shown :)

 

Has anyone seen a barrel (heavy) for it, apart from one being made custom?

Hedganian - any chance of some close-up pics of the bipod/barrel interface at all? How does that bipod actually mount to it?

Thanks

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These are photos of the Real Steel H-Bar:

 

2916026788_87aeedb8f0_o.jpg

 

2916026784_8e976855db_o.jpg

 

This is the Boom Arms H-Bar kit:

 

2915204367_ac691f08a6_b.jpg

 

2915204373_577c667d19_o.jpg

 

Looks the same to me. In what way is it not quite right? I've never actually seen the real steel H-Bar in the real steel, as it were, so it's entirely possible that it's not the same as the Boom Arms replica, but judging solely from the pics I can't see any difference.

 

As for the bipod mount, here are some pics. Hope they help.

 

2385471141_d501343d6b_o.jpg

 

2386303824_e1f7663af1_o.jpg

 

The Bipod simply fits over the barrel, and is prevented from rotating by the little "nub" on the bottom of it and prevented from falling off by the flash excluder. I, of course, secured everything in place further with two-part epoxy adhesive. :)

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AHHH.. that is an interesting one... I had thought that the bipod sleeve was clamped AROUND the barrel, not actually being an external continuation of the barrel itself (or over a minor sleeve)- cool.

 

The muzzle is different in terms of the holes, not so much in their placement but in their diameters - the front ones are too small (picky difference) and I think they also should be bored down towards the inside of the barrel to allow gas to escape - I am not certain of this.

I also have a feeling that the holes to the side are also similar - angled slightly outwards.

 

Is the boom+arms kit barrel (outer) iron?steel? alloy?

Cheers.

 

:)

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I've got a question for all of you using the AUG as a DM style rifle rather than an assault rifle :)

 

I've found that on my AUG if you pull back the fake bolt to access the hop unit and then push on it perpendicular to the rifle you can move the hop unit a fair amount side to side. Is this unique to my very old AUG?

 

If not, then the barrel is not held solidly in place with respect to any aiming devices mounted on the upper receiver :(

 

Has anyone come up with a neat and clever way to prevent this sideways motion?

 

Cheers

 

 

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Wege:

 

Okay, those differences with hole diametres and things are too minor to really notice from pics - I'd need to have the real steel and replica side by side to be sure.

 

The Boom Arms kit is steel, and not particularly well blued, mines got a few rust spots on it. :( I keep meaning to give it a good scotchbriting and repaint it, but it's never high on my list of things to do. (It's a *VERY* long list...)

 

The bipod is not part of the barrel, you could leave it off completely. It would look bloody stupid, though. It is, in effect, like a sleeve that you describe, but it's not really "clamped" as such, merely held in place by a "nub" on the bootom of the barrel and by the flash excluder. IIRC....

 

Tome:

 

I've certainly never noticed any sideways movement in the barrel/hop-up unit on my AUG. The inner barrel is held in place and aligned by the outer barrel and plastic barrel shroud which fits into the receiver, and the hop-up unit needs to remin fixed in order to mate up correctly with the air nozzle on the gearbox and the feed nozzle where the BBs come through from the magazine.

 

Of course, if there is any play in the hop-up unit's position, that could well account for many of the feed problems people report.

 

I'd suggest not pushing on the hop-up unit. In use, the AUG has a high level of accuracy for an AEG, and is an excellent base for a DMR or counter-sniper rifle.

 

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Hedge - I have the fake bolt removed on my AUG so i can grab the front of the gearbox through the holes in the receiver. In theory if you were to do that would you be able to move the front of the gearbox side to side?

 

I haven't experience any feed problems in since i installed the speed nipple years ago so i think the junction between the front of the gearbox and the back of the hop is correct.

Edited by tome

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Going back to the H-bar mod, as I am trying to source or think of ideas to IMITATE if not replicate, it leads me to believe that what Boom-arms have done is source the actual bipod for the Hbar AUG, rather than making one themselves.

 

The muzzle, on the other hand, appears to be not quite right, but I am willing to concede if shown :)

 

Has anyone seen a barrel (heavy) for it, apart from one being made custom?

Hedganian - any chance of some close-up pics of the bipod/barrel interface at all? How does that bipod actually mount to it?

Thanks

 

 

AHHH.. that is an interesting one... I had thought that the bipod sleeve was clamped AROUND the barrel, not actually being an external continuation of the barrel itself (or over a minor sleeve)- cool.

 

The muzzle is different in terms of the holes, not so much in their placement but in their diameters - the front ones are too small (picky difference) and I think they also should be bored down towards the inside of the barrel to allow gas to escape - I am not certain of this.

I also have a feeling that the holes to the side are also similar - angled slightly outwards.

 

Is the boom+arms kit barrel (outer) iron?steel? alloy?

Cheers.

 

:)

 

 

If you are interested I am selling an H-Bar barrel as a complete unit with inner barrel, hop etc.

 

 

 

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the little hook on the stopper rail broke off years ago :( and I usually have covers on both ejection ports to help keep the noise in.

 

hmm i wonder if i'm missing a part? What bit holds the front of the gearbox still?

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There is space at either side of the gearbox, but as the stock of the AUG narrows at the top, there shouldn't be any sideways movement - it's literally held in place by the stock itself. Or at least, mine appears to be. I gave the gearbox a good pushing about, and it stayed solid as a rock.

 

Could be that your gearbox isn't seated correctly and/or not held in place at the back properly. Try taking it out and refitting it, see if that makes any difference. To be honest, I'm at a bit of a loss on this one... :blink:

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Cheers for give that a check hedge :)

 

I'm intruiged now, maybe my stock is damaged? It's been opened up so many times in it's life that it's plausible. It's so old that i can't remember if it was always like this or not :( it's always had a cutdown gearbox retention plate so maybe that's something to do with it. I'll take a good look when i get home

 

 

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