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Here are some pics of my version of an M15. I didn't thow on the usual flashlights, lasers, AN/PEQ2, etc.. This is my everyday skirmish setup. I only thorw on the other stuff if it's for show.

 

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How useful is that thing on the bottom of your mag? The hole looks a little small for a gloved finger to get through

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If you look carefully, the front part is "T" shaped. You slip two fingers, one on either side, parallel to the mag. Just as you would hold any type of "T" handle. Like the bolt cocking lever on your M4/M16. Your thumb rest on the other end, back of mag, where the is a small indent just for it. Works great, if you practice reloads. You can get those plates separately, or buy the full aeg mag. Cheaper to get the plates.

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Fair do's to that, it does look great for display (up on the wall behind a piece of toughened glass and exquisitely framed in a cherrywood cabinet, mmmmmm...) They do look so pretty, and no, I'm not even being sarcastic!

 

I'm such a chairsofter sometimes.

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Just a question for those that do this....... why spray your hand grip? It serves no purpose as your hands cover it!

 

Mine isn't painted. It's the colour of the plastic. That goes for all the parts. I might go ahead and paint some parts after seeing some of the great paint jobs I've seen.

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Here are a few pics of my M15A4 which is currently dressed up a Troy CQB SPC A4 using some realsteel parts.

 

Parts include:

• CA M15A4 Base Gun

• Troy MRF-10 (AKA MRF-MX) Modular Rail Forend

• Troy Folding Battle Sights (Front and Rear)

• Vltor Clubfoot Modstock

• Tango Down Rail Grip Plates

• Star Battlegrip (Tando Down Battlegrip Copy)

• CA KAC Style Vertical Grip (Tango Down Vertical Grip TBA)

• Guarder Phantom Flash Hider (I'm not using a Troy Medieval Muzzle Break because I won't be using one on my realsteel, cool though it may be).

• G&G GP6-II Taclight

• Guarder AimPoint Replica with King Arms Mount (ARMS #22 with Riser TBA for proper co-witnessing)

 

I'm ultimately going to replace the body with a new one who's flat top is to spec, probably one of the new Guarder bodies. I'd like to get the blank one and have Troy marking laser engraved onto it. I may also replace or refinish the CA barrel as the existing finish is unrealistic. Ultimately the internals will most likely be replaced with the MadBull 470, at which point I'll have 95% of an M15 left over which I'll build back up and probably sell. Ah, full circle.

 

Front angle shot.

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Top view.

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Front end close up.

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Body close up. Curse you out of spec M15 body!

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Vltor.

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Mini battery hacked onto the side of the Vltor. I used one of the low pro cheek welds for this, it works pretty well and allows me to use all five positions plus it feels almost the same as the other side against the cheek. If it's going to stay an AEG for much longer I may come up with an internal solution simply because ascetic reasons. I don't really like the replica Vltors though, they're too long compared to the real one.

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Right side markings on the MRF. This rail system is really awesome. It's free floating, it extends right up to the receiver so you get an uninterrupted top rail (when properly installed on a spec upper), it comes in a variety of sizes and configurations, and the bottom is removable to allow you to mount an M203. Someone REALLY needs to make a replica of this thing.

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Left side markings on the MRF.

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Rear Troy Flip Up Battle Sight, down. I really like the Troy BUIS. There's no play whatsoever and they're pretty easy to adjust (and dual apertures too).

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Rear Troy Flip Up Battle Sight, up.

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Edited by staticzero
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Front Troy Flip Up Battle Sight, down.

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Front Troy Flip Up Battle Sight, up.

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Guarder Phantom Flash Hider. This is a very nice piece, the finish is great and it's well made. The finish is comparable to my realsteel parts, though it's on the light side. It really makes the CA barrel's finish look unrealistic though.

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Here's the Star Battlegrip on the gun compared to a real Tango Down Battlegrip. Out of the box the Star looked to light and felt a bit off, however once mounted to the gun and after getting a bit of oil on it, it looks and feels great. It's very comfortable. The real TD grip features water tight battery/parts/tool storage in it. Obviously the Star does not as there's a motor in there.

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This picture illustrates the disparity between the CA flat top height and the MRF. This is CA's fault, their bodies are out of spec. This is a flaw they should have corrected long ago, let alone ever shipped with. There's simply no excuse for it. I'll be getting a different body because of this. The gap you see here is the result of another issue which I'll describe in a moment.

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This illustrates both the top rail height issue and also the MRF stability tab fit issue. Basically the body is too wide for the tabs one the MRF to fit. One of the tabs can be seen in this pic right above the body pin screw. These tabs keep the MRF from rotating and are important. I cant screw the barrel nut on all the way as it is so everything has a bit of play in it and the MRF isn't all the way up against the body (which is why there's a gap). It would be a simple matter to file the body in the appropriate spot to make it work, but as I've said this body is getting replaced so I don't want to alter it.

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Edited by staticzero
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nice project there staticzero...although the stock/battery setup kills the appeal. you're already spending about $1000+ on the gun...go all out and make it perfect.

 

in my case, was thinking of hacking the vltor a1 clubfoot for battery storage, but i think a triple-cell li-poly setup would fit in my vltor forend. i think that might work for your gun too. i've seen those li-poly's in person and they are really tiny.

 

Battery_Redalert_003_lg.gif

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