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Is the barrel quick change like the real AUG? Be cool if you could quick change barrels from 16" to 14" or 20".

 

Yes. So are the receivers. I plan to have an AUG setup like this:

 

Daytime light:

-CA AUG A1 16" barrel

 

Daytime heavy:

-CA AUG A1 20" barrel M203

 

Nighttime light:

-CA AUG A1 16" barrel, TM railed receiver, optic

 

Nighttime heavy:

-CA AUG A1 20" barrel, M203, TM railed receiver, optic

 

Can't decide on the optic though--EoTech or aimpoint.

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Does no-one consider going back and reading my posts?

 

I *OWN* every 5.56mm barrel option for the AUG now, apart from the A3 (but I have and A3-esque which I personally think looks better) and I posted various information about them all, together with pics, further back in this thread.

 

The *ONLY* decent replica H-Bar barrel kit on the market is made by Boom Arms. I have a review of it that I wrote for SafeZone magazine before it folded, should anyone want to see it. I must get around to asking Arnie to post the review on the site. In the meantime here's a link to it on Manc-AS

 

The *ONLY* decent replica short-barrelled 5.56mm barrel kit on the market is available from Evike.com in the USA - not sure who makes it to be honest - and comes with the new A2-style "birdcage" flash excluder.

 

No-one makes a proper 9mm carbine barrel and magazine adaptor kit. The so-called SMG barrel is nothing of the kind, and most have the wrong flash excluder anyway. The one I've got is the closest I could find, see the pics for more details - it's the para/commando version of the 5.56mm AUG.

 

The A3-esque barrel uses the "RAS-AUG" kit from Action. It needs a 500mm inner barrel, not the standard AUG 509mm inner barrel, but no-one mentions this when you buy it. Take note, and learn from my mistakes.

 

The M203 adaptor is a replica of the version used by the Austrailian army (at least some of them, according to photos I've seen) as is the optic M203 sight you can see in my pic. There are two replicas of the M203 adaptor, one with side RIS rails and one without. The one without RIS rails comes with an A2-style flash excludeder. Both come with a stronger outer barrel to take the weight of the UGL+adaptor. The one with rails means you have to take off the left side RIS rail in order to mount the M203. The one I got was designed for the Sun Project RIS M203, but I got a G&P M203, so had to drill and tap a new hole in order to get it to fit. Not a major job if you've got the kit to create a threaded hole in aluminium.

 

I think that's covered it all. Any other questions?

Edited by Hedganian
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I *OWN* every 5.56mm barrel option for the AUG now, apart from the A3 (but I have and A3-esque which I personally think looks better) and I posted various information about them all, together with pics, further back in this thread.

 

Don't have the A2 either, as no company makes an AUG A2.

 

and comes with the new A2-style "birdcage" flash excluder.

 

Which in the real steel AUG world is known as the "closed flashhider" ;)

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pix26173264841f42148fa3.jpg

 

Note seam line where the scope meets the receiver. The scope can be detached from the receiver, and replaced with a rail. On the A1 model, you have to swap entire receivers. CA's AUG "A2" is simply an A1 with railed receiver.

 

pix26173265311f3db2ebn9.jpg

 

Note the curved charging handle, without forward assist, as opposed to the A1's rectangular handle with forward assist button.

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NOOO  oh well,  jarren  could you explain how you did that phantom to me?

 

 

sure.

 

first the materials:

 

3 1" pvc rounded caps

 

1 length of 1 1/2" pvc pipe

 

the cuts:

 

1. first cut the pvc to the length you will need (about six inches beyond the outer barrel)

 

2. drill the center one of the caps to where it is extremely tight around the outer barrel (remove the compensator for this)

 

3. drill the center of the second cap to where it is very tight around the threads of the compensator and then screw the compensator back down onto the cap like a nut - you can drill a hole in the side of the cap to put the hex net into the compensator if you like

 

4. fit the pvc around the two caps with one all the way down the barrel and the other around the flash hider when the tube is at the bottom mark the points you need to cut around the base of the barrel and measure the length and mark that as well (about three slots are needed)

 

5. remove the pipe and cut the slots you may need to repeat steps four and five a few time to get it just right.

 

6. once the pvc pipe is cut correctly slip it over the to caps and the use two (one for each cap) small screws to secure it to the caps.

 

7. drill a hole about 12 mm in diameter in the last cap and six to eight small holes for aesthetics in a concentric circle around this center hole.

 

8. place the end cap into the barrel and secure it in place with a small screw

 

9. paint to your own liking

 

 

 

- note you need to be DAMN sure that you drill the caps in the center otherwise the piece will be off center at the muzzle thus shooting the end cap off

 

- rails and other things can be added at your own taste

 

 

 

pictures will be upcoming

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Don't have the A2 either, as no company makes an AUG A2.

 

 

I'm sure we've had this discussion before, with the same results, however I think you'll find that my post was actually talking about *BARREL* versions, rather than A1/A2/A3 body/receivers. The AUG A2 has the same barrels as the AUG A1. I mentioned the A3 because the receiver/barrel is so radically different from the A1/A2 as to essentially be a different barrel/receiver option when compared to the other AUG options.

 

The problems with AUG A2 replicas in airsoft are well known and much lamented. If I could get an A2-style cocking handle, then I would. As for the genuine A2 interchangable scope/rail system, that's just too complex to be made cheaply for an airsoft replica and I think that TM/CA have made an acceptable attempt to recreate both options. Technically it's not an A2, but there we go. It's as good as you'll get.

 

Which in the real steel AUG world is known as the "closed flashhider" ;)

 

Or, more accurately, "closed flash excluder" since there's no such thing as a "flashhider". And it's a cocking handle, not a charging handle. You cock a rifle, you charge batteries for your flashlight.

 

Now then, how about you stop being so damn anal? :waggle: Then we can all go about our business? :blink:

Edited by Hedganian
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Or, more accurately, "closed flash excluder" since there's no such thing as a "flashhider". And it's a cocking handle, not a charging handle. You cock a rifle, you charge batteries for your flashlight.

 

Now then, how about you stop being so damn anal?

 

Actually, you're being the anal one, since the term "flashhider"are used by every firearms manufacturer known to man. "Charging handle" and "cocking handle" are interchangeable.

 

According to the Steyr AUG manual (page in question found here), your flash "exluder" is called a flash hider.

 

The M16's PM manual calls it a "flash suppressor". AR15.com's AR15 parts guide lists your "cocking handle" as a "charging handle" (sauce).

 

The M14 manual uses the term "flash suppressor".

 

I'm confused over the term "excluder", as "exlude" means "to expel", and every firearm "excludes" a flash.....

Edited by sekiryu
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