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2011 Picture Thread

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Yeah, that's really all there is to it. I've used a dremel before. On this I used a soldering iron (which is what most people use).

I used a my own custom made tip on this. Which was a cylindrical bit with a rounded tip. I cut the rounded tip off so that the tip was flat and drilled a hole in the center.

So it burns a small circle inside another slightly larger circle. I overlapped the circles to make it look the way it does.


Good luck with your WE build Xander. Post pics when you've got things together.

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here is my completely stock WE hicapa

i have sanded and polished the slide altho i must admit it isnt looking its best atm.

shaved the second sear off the hammer..

sanded and polished the piston housing.

the grips i previously sprayed tan but hve sprayed back to black

also i previously sprayed the slide dont bother asking why seemed good idea

i have also wrapped the inner barrel in tape to stop the wobble



any tips would be nice on what to do next or what needs re-doing

Edited by Xander.P
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Thanks Junior.

I use a CED range bag and individual gun pouches/sleeves.

Like this http://www.cedhk.com/show.php/Object385



I've added the final two items. Thumb rest and Extended Mag Release button.

I really like the feel of the Thumb Rest...but it seems to crowd the gun and takes away from it's clean lines.

I think I may continue searching for another different thumb rest.





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Infinity SVI Custom 6 inch 2011 – Tokyo Marui Base


Designed by the4thpower3, Custom CNC’d by Captain KK @ ProG4


ProG4 Custom Slide 4.4” – 6061 T6 Aluminum

ProG4 Custom Compensator 1.6” – 6061 T6 Aluminum

ProG4 Cocking Handle - 6061 T6 Aluminum

ProG4 Outer Barrel Threaded (for Compensator) Marked .38 Super – 303S.Steel

ProG4 Guide Rod 2 Piece Full Length – 303 S.Steel

King Arms 150% Recoil & Hammer Springs

The4thPower3 Short Stroke – Nylon Bushing

ProG4 Breech & Piston Head – 6061 T6 Aluminum

ProG4 Loading Nozzle Spring

NineBall Floating Valve Spring

Shooters Design Loading Nozzle

Shooters Design Piston Head O-ring

Action Floating Valve – Aluminum w/ O-ring

TM Hop-Up Chamber

NineBall Hop-Up Rubber

PDI Inner Barrel 6.01mm (i.d.) 8.55mm (o.d.) 137mm (length) – SUS 304S.Steel

ProG4 Custom 6” Upper Frame – 303S.Steel

ProG4 Hammer Spur Type – 303S.Steel

ProG4 Hammer Strut – 303S.Steel

ProG4 Valve Knocker & Spring – 303S.Steel

ProG4 Sear – 303S.Steel

ProG4 Thumb Rest- 6061 T6 Aluminum

ProG4 Thumb Ambi Safeties (polished) – 303S.Steel

ProG4 Grip Safety (polished) – 303S.Steel

ProG4 Slide Stop – 303S.Steel

ProG4 Mag Release – 303S.Steel

Shooters Design SHPD Extended Mag Release Button - 6061 T6 Aluminum

ProG4 Trigger Bar – 303S.Steel

ProG4 Trigger – 6061 T6 Aluminum

The4thPower3 Trigger and Hammer Tuning

ProG4 SV Grip Logos – 6061 T6 Aluminum

TM Lower Frame – Grip

The4thPower3 Grip Texturing Scrolled

ProG4 Trigger Guard Screws – Steel

PDI Grip Screws - SUS 304S.Steel

Cape Magwell – Stainless Steel

ProG4 Mag Base Pads - 6061 T6 Aluminum

The4thPower3 TM Custom HighFlow Mag Valves

Shooters Design Mag Feed Lips


C-More Serendipity Red Dot Sight – 6MOA dot

Arredondo C-More Dot Module Hood & Switch Knob

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I have a 2 cents question :)

Why does shooters place the cocking lever on the right ?

Could be a holstering issue, but doesn't it take more time to reach the right side and get back to firing position ?

Cheers for those great sidearms !

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Most right handed shooters actually put their slide racker on the left.

Slide rackers are used to make it easier to rack when you have a scope/mount in the way (like mine).

They provide a little leverage when trying to clear a malfunction.

They act as a "kick stand" - when having to pick a gun up off a flat surface (ie. table).

So if you were lefty and wanted to use it as a kick stand you'd put it facing right.


I am a right handed shooter. I like the slide racker on the right. Because it doesn't interfere with my grip and draw.

My thumb rest acts as my "kick stand". As for reaching over the gun to get the slide racker.....eh.

I agree, I think it might be a little easier on the left. I have shot with one on the left and found my thumb jambing into

it on my draw. I guess it would just take some time getting used to it. So I may change to left side and compare a bit more.


Big Al. There are starts which reqiure racking the gun. Table starts mainly.


I changed my thumb rest again to something a little smaller, lighter, non-obtrusive.


Edited by the4thpower3
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  • 2 weeks later...

The Caspian is a WE slide.

I wanted to compare the effects of weight distribution.


The STI has a long dust cover frame that puts more weight to the front of the gun. It has a steel straight barrel and the slide carries a steel barrel bushing along with a steel guide rod plug. That's a lot of front end weight. The slide is also straight cut with no ports. The back of the slide houses an extremely light weight NineBall plastic breech. The top end is short stroked and running a KA 150% recoil spring.


The Caspian has a short dust cover frame...no front weight. It has a NineBall lightweight aluminum fluted barrel and the slide carries only a NineBall very lightweight slotted aluminum guide rod plug. The slide has a classic cut and is heavily ported on the front. Very light front end. The rear houses the heavy stock WE potmetal breech. The top end is also short stroked and running a KA 150% recoil spring.



Baias - your SVI s look awsome! Are you planning an SVI frame for the black double stack?

The single stack is gorgeous - I'm definetly going to build a single stack...eventually :)

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Quick question for all those that own 2011s. I love the look of this gun: http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airs...il?prodID=26007


But I hate how it looks when you add a magazine with a humungous bumper. SO are there any mags or is there any way to have virtually no mag bumper or lip, like on a regular old 1911A1 mag?


I like the sleek and tacticool 2011s, but I hate those stupid mag bumpers.... They just ruin the look of the gun for me, and I don't really need them for skirmishing.....

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Vercingetorix - the best you can do is to add a 4.3 magazine to your gun, like mine (check the previous page). All 2011 series come with that bump.

the4thpower3 - yes, the next upgrade will be the frame though i am not decided wich one Shooters Design or Airsoft Surgeon. Personally i would go with the AS because the finnish will match, but yet it is more pricy than the SD one.


And one question for you the4thpower3: PROG4 does custom frames, finnishes, engravings for you? I mean if i would like a Caspian Single Stack for a TM 1911 they will do it for me?

Obviusly with a cost..

Edited by baias6230
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Baias- yes he will

this is a WA but he will do TM as well



BTW. I would buy an Airsoft Surgeon/ ProG4 Frame over a Shooters Design hands down.

The fitment is so much better, the longer slide rails and one piece design make a very nice difference, it comes with a steel sear and and valve knocker. I wouldn't give the SD frame a second thought. And ProG4 shipping is cheaper than any other HK distributor that I've ordered from.


Edited by the4thpower3
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AFAIK they haven't start making 1911 frames for TM yet, though I've heard its in the work....personally I hope its the same design as their 2011 frame, just with a grip and obviously single stack(frame and grip width). It'd be good to moveaway from the TM 1911 inner frame altogether, that way the fitment of sliderail and such can be controlled much tighter...


I echo the4thpower's sentiment and you should get the ProG4 frame. I think its a design improvement over the TM original and the finish and fit unmatched IMO if you use one of their slides....



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