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infected

How To Install A Mosfet

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Okay, first let me say, that this was a prototype in progress, so don't be shocked by the poor quality of heat shrink or the soldering inside the gearbox. This was just a test unit and I have not sold a mosfet to anyone that looked like this.

 

On to the install.

 

First of all, I've had a great number of questions as to why are the wires so short on the MOSFETS I sell. Truth be told, you usually don't need long wires. Here's an example of an MP5 with a mosfet installed in it, and how I did it.

 

I've rewired this gun with an automotive fuse (instead of a glass fuse), and it has deans, but everything is the essentially the same. At one end you have the connector for your battery, then comes the fuse. After the fuse, but before the gearbox we cut the red and black wires (make sure you're battery is disconnected first). One side of the Mosfet has 2 wires. This side goes towards the fuse. Just connect it to the red and black wires from your fuse. The other side has 3 wires. You'll connect the red and black to the red and black wires that go towards the gearbox. Make sure to tape or heat shrink the connections properly.

 

installfp0.jpg

 

Now open up the gearbox. Here you'll find the switch contacts. There are two. In the figure below you'll see I've numbered them. To begin with, there was a red wire connected to number 1. That wire led up to the battery. Contact 2 had separate red wire that ran down to the motor. Really all you need to know is that there was a red wire connected to contact 1 and another one connected to Contact 2. Now all you need to do is move one red wire to the other red wire. In the picture I've moved the wire from contact 1 to contact 2. Now contact 2 has both red wires connected to it, and nothing connected to contact 1. Here's where you use the control wire (thin wire) from the MOSFET. As you'll see in the picture, the thin wire goes from the MOSFET straight to contact 1.

 

gearboxswitchub4.jpg

 

Put you're gun back together and you're done.

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Thanks for that i see now, its a simple job the diagrams are hard to read :(

 

 

I apologize for my poor diagrams. I'm looking into redoing them.

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What ile do now that i have got it into the most difficult gun (CA SCAR- there are 2 sets of wires but one fuse) Ile post a how 2 guide for complete beginners and do a short video on the subject which infected can use to demonstrate how to install his products. (as he made this thread for me :) )

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What ile do now that i have got it into the most difficult gun (CA SCAR- there are 2 sets of wires but one fuse) Ile post a how 2 guide for complete beginners and do a short video on the subject which infected can use to demonstrate how to install his products. (as he made this thread for me :) )

 

as i mentioned earlyer here is the video i said i would do :

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...p;#entry1745315

or

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Great tut., and great video. That is the coolest soldering iron I have ever seen!

 

 

Trust me i have a better one, instant heat up and instant melt but it ran out of gas, and it dont have an exaust port, cost £98, its my brothers he uses it for work

 

Infected please feel free to use the video on your website ;) I already installed your mosfets into all my AEGs

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Oh, you should see my SnapOn butane soldering iron. I think it's made by Weller though. (airsoft isn't the original clone factory) It's got more tricks than a $2 ..... well you know.

I hate using it as it's exhaust port tends to melt things. I like my 800 degree F Edsyn 951.

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Trust me i have a better one, instant heat up and instant melt but it ran out of gas, and it dont have an exaust port, cost £98, its my brothers he uses it for work

 

Infected please feel free to use the video on your website ;) I already installed your mosfets into all my AEGs

 

 

Glad to hear they're working for you. I'll have to take you up on posting that to my site when I get a chance to update it again.

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Hey, I know some of you have ordered mosfets from me and had questions when installing them, or found that after installing them had a wire come loose. The common fault I am finding is in the soldering iron or technique used. This is a problem that I know many mosfet sellers have come across, so I know it's a problem across the board.

 

When installing these you need to make sure you have a quality soldering iron (preferably one that goes to at least 700 degrees F (800 prefered), a good clean quality soldering tip, and good quality solder. I have also found that using a Flux Pen really helps.

 

Tips to soldering these in place:

 

Strip the necessary amount of wire. Twist the wires together tightly. Now use the flux pen to wipe flux on the bare wire all around. Make sure you're using a rosin core solder (not cheap plumbing solder). The thinner the solder the better in this case. Now apply a tiny bit of solder to the tip of the soldering iron and wipe it on your sponge to fully tin the tip of the soldering iron. Now, place one more tiny bit of solder to the tip and place that under the wires to be soldered together. Give it a few seconds to heat up the wire. Then apply solder between the wire and soldering iron till you see it pull up to the top of the wire. Apply more solder to the top of the wire without moving the soldering iron and then you're done.

 

If you over heat the wire, you'll soften the solder at the mosfet causing it to disconnect and possibly touch the positive battery wire. That's a bad thing. I use VERY high quality wire, and as such it'll conduct heat very well all the way to the moseft, so you need to make sure you don't over heat the wire. The best way to do that is using a flux pen and a good quality soldering iron.

 

If anyone is interested, I'll try to put together a video on soldering techniques as it applies to installing a mosfet.

 

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This is great stuff, fingers crossed it will become a sticky.

 

I'd also like to point out that I have now used infecteds ab fets on 6 guns to great affect.

 

But,,,,,,,,,,does any one know how to fit 'em to a p90 & get both semi & full auto???

 

 

Greg.

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Honestly, if you are too lazy to look it up, why should anyone bindustrious enough to tell you? Google. Its faster than typing an asinine post on the subject.

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Fatality

look here and you'll find the info you're looking for:

http://infectedairsoft.wordpress.com/item-...eaking-circuit/

 

Next time try to search for the info. There have been tons of threads on this topic as of late.

 

Glenn

true he should have searched, but his "asinine post" didn't need an asinine response.

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Could you please post up that video? I am a complete dunderhead at soldering, and the first time I tried rewiring for my mosfet (sorry, its one of lighthazard/psyphers creations...) I absolutely destroyed the nice wiring....

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Practice, practice and practice...then practice some more.

There's no substitute for experience, and if you practice a lot you get the experience.

 

Did I mention practicing? :D

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Great guide, A video would also be very handly as i'm not too good with a soldering iron since i was at school! Hoping to fit my mosfets that i got from you ages ago this weekend or next week! :D Keep up the good work Infected!

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Hi there,

 

I'm trying to install one of your AB MOSFETs in my AUG, and am having trouble getting my head around the pinouts on this diagram here

 

HowtoAB.jpg

 

When compared to your package which has pos & neg (battery side) from one end, and pos, neg & gate wire dropping out of the other. Please help! :lol:

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Funny... whenever I ask a question like the above, it almost always gives me a clue as to how to do it. Something about writing it all down, I guess?

 

Anyhoo... a couple more scratches of the head, and I started soldering, roughly at first to test my theory. Funnily enough, it all worked first time, so I resoldered it properly. Biggest issue was getting the newly soldered motor lugs (fat cable) past the receiver lip on the way back in, but it's now up & running sweet as a nut :)

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Honestly... they were just laying about in my tool box. It's the same connector you'd use for automotive speakers. I used to install car stereos and navigation systems which is why I had that stuff laying about. I pulled the hard nylon insulation off the connector and used heat shrink to insulate it instead. I think the proper name for the connector is a FASTON. Search Faston on digikey and you'll see what I'm talking about. I know they have these at my local walmart too (where the car stereo stuff is). You just need to get the right size for the fuse.

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