Romulus Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 TM Hi-Capa Series Aftermarket Upgrade Parts Guide I. Introduction II. Power Upgrades III. Accuracy Upgrades IV. Reliability Upgrades V. Cosmetic Upgrades VI. Niche Upgrades A. Competition B. Suppressors VII. Finding and Buying Upgrades VIII. Useful Hi-Capa Links Appendix A: Member's Parts Lists Appendix B: Individual Upgrades Examined/Reviewed (by Category) Appendix C: Individual Upgrades Examined/Reviewed (by Manufacturer) Appendix D: Abbreviations and Terms Glossary I. Introduction Without a doubt the TM Hi-Capa series (4.3 and 5.1) is one of the best upgrade platforms available. There are a huge number of after market parts available for this gun which means you can do almost anything you want with it. The downside of this is that it is hard for someone new to GBBs to figure out where to begin. The fact of the matter is that there are so many upgrades for a Hi-Capa that building up a gun is not really an exact science. A 'fully" built Hi-Capa (i.e. pretty much everything practical rebuilt with after market parts) can run up to a grand while a 'maxed' Hi-Capa (a gun with pretty much any and every upgrade possible) can run out past $1500-$2000 depending on how custom you get. However, it is not necessary to spend that sort of money on a Hi-Capa. The beauty of the gun is that it shoots great stock. There isn't really a failure point that has to be addressed right away. In my experience a stock Hi-Capa has no problems handling propane (I watched a 4.3 go through about 1500 rounds stock. I took it apart to upgrade it and didn't see many signs of wear even then). The first step in choosing you upgrades is deciding what you want the gun to do better (it does everything pretty darn well to start). If you want to up the power you can install a combination of parts to get you there. A pretty common basic power package is a PDI 6.01 tightbore, 9Ball Chamber packing (purple), Guarder Hi-Flow Valve, and a 9Ball Dyna or SD piston head. An important point to note when discussing the potential power added by different upgrades is that the additions are not necessarily cumulative. In other words, if I test a 9Ball chamber packing, and find that it adds 5 FPS to a stock gun, and then test a 9Ball 6.01 tightbore, and find it adds 25 FPS to a stock gun, I can't assume that both these parts, when installed, will give the gun a 30 FPS boost. Thus, I am not going to give specific numbers for FPS increases of different parts since I don't want to create false expectations. If you want to make your gun more durable and realistic (i.e full metal) there are many different slides available for the Hi-Capa. They start at Guarder (about $55-$65) and go all the way up to Fire Customs which can be in excess of $600. I would recommend that you upgrade the springs at the same time you upgrade the slide. Guarder 150's seem to be the hardest followed by Freedom Art and then SD (which I find to be softest). I don't really have a preference for springs but if you want a vicious snap go for the Guarder (I believe that SD is cheaper though). This covers the basics for what most Hi-Capa owners need. If you like you can continue to upgrade parts for durability but it may be a wast of money depending on how hard you use the gun. I really haven't had any failures on on a Hi-Capa yet. The other upgrade category is cosmetic things like more metal, colored grips in different styles, mag wells, etc. These are pretty much personal choice. There are also upgrades available for special uses like target shooting (see info on our very own postal shoot and Section VI). As far as ordering, most of these parts will only be found in Hong Kong stores. I personally think the Den Trinity has the best selection as well as being a fast and professional outfit that I have worked with a number of times. I would recommend that you go to their site and search 'Hi Capa' which will give you 30 some pages of upgrade parts to choose from. This is a great way to get a feel for what parts you feel look good. The last thing I need to touch on is installing all of these parts. Some of them are incredibly simple, some challenge an experienced GBB builder. This guide is not about installing parts. It is about finding what upgrade parts you want for your gun. Installing them is another matter for another guide. Finally, I want to say that while this guide is focused on after market airsoft parts there are more options out there for Hi-Capa's. Some RS parts can be made to fit a Hi-Capa and if you get really creative you can even build parts yourself (see Section VI A). The sky really is the limit when it comes to building Hi-Capas. However, enough preamble, lets get down to the guide! II. Power Upgrade TM Hi-Capas are not the most powerful pistols out of the box. They usually (depending on temp, etc.) put out over 300 FPS on Green Gas/Propane which is good enough to get the job done (especially with the awesome to hop-up mentioned later). However, most WA's and KSC's will shoot as hot or hotter so powering up the pistol is important to most builders. The good news is that there is a lot of power to be found in a Hi-Capa. I have personally been able to find nearly 100 FPS in my fully built Limcat (see Appendix A). Granted, I have put a lot of money into that project and not everyone should expect performance like that but it is possible. Most people don't want their pistols shooting much over 350 anyway so it isn't necessary to take the power upgrades to the extreme. Most builders seem to agree that a basic power up package includes the following: Tightbore Barrel (TB): In my opinion a TB is one of the best upgrades out there period. It helps the power and consistency of a GBB tremendously without compromising efficiency in the least. There are many TB's out there but most seem to agree that PDI's 6.01mm Stainless TBs are the best money can buy. For those who haven't worked much with GBB's a TB will increase FPS much more than on an AEG since the gas will continue to expand. This also means that increasing the length on a inner barrel will result in a much larger FPS increase than would be seen with an AEG since it gives the expanding gas more time to act on the BB as it travels down the barrel. Thus, the tighter the TB the most FPS can be expected. My first TB recommendation is always a PDI 6.01 but if you are working on a tight budget other TB's will help in the same way (just not as much). It is also fair to note the Dee's Customs (DBC) makes 6.01 Hi-Capa barrels. I favor PDI over DBC since the PDI barrels are made from cold forged stainless steel where the DBC barrels are made from tarnished brass. A Hi-Capa 4.3 can except up to a 94.5mm TB. A Hi-Capa 5.1 can take up to a 112.5mm TB. After that you have to run something like a comp or a suppressor in order to cover the inner barrel. The longest factory barrel made for the Hi-Capa is the PDI 7" 6.01mm (162.5mm) TB. If you lust for power this barrel is for you. It's what I used in my 410+ FPS Limcat. Chamber Packing: Chamber packings (also called hop-up buckings) don't do a whole lot for power. The primary reason to upgrade them is accuracy and I cover them in more depth in that section. However, most builders will recommend a 9Ball chamber packing in the list of power tweaks as well since it is good for a few FPS. Overall it is one of those cheap parts that doesn't hurt anything and helps in small ways. Piston Head(s): There are a variety of piston heads for the Hi-Capa but the 9Ball Dyna Piston Head and the Shooters Design Piston head seem to be the most popular. Either one will work well in a Hi-Capa and increase compression which can effect power and kick. Both of the above piston heads are of the o-ring type rather than the cut type stock piston head. The big different between the two is that the 9Ball Dyna is ported on the front two allow it to seal better with low pressure gases. This in good unless you are using GG at high temperatures, CO2, or Red Gas. I have heard reports that at these higher operating pressures it is possible for the Dyna to blow is o-ring while the slide is cycling. Thus, I recommend the Dyna for normal GG use and the SD for high temp GG, CO2, and Red Gas use. Hi-Flow Valve(s) (HF): Next to the TB the HFs are the best way to increase power in a GBB. The downside of any HF is that it decreases efficiency since it allows the gun to use more gas per shot. The other negative aspect abut a HF is that it is a magazine upgrade so each and every magazine you own will need one. Those points aside they do open up the power. There are a number of different brands on valves available but it would seem that the Guarder HF is the best option for a balance or increasing power while being strong and reliable itself. It is also possible to modify your stock valves into HF's but I have never done it so it's a guide for someone else to write. The above constitute what I would call a basic power package. There are other upgrades that effect power (hammer springs, loading nozzles, and floating valves to name a few) but they are generally installed for reasons other than power and just happen to add a few FPS here and there. Rather than discuss these in detail here I will address them later in their proper sections and in the specific parts appendices. You can also check out different peoples parts combinations and their resultant power in Appendix A. III. Accuracy Upgrades TM Hi-Capa's are very accurate pistols right out of the box. TM guns in general are known for their exception hop-ups and most won't dispute the fact that the TM pistol Hop-up system is the best in the business. It is interesting to note that TM GBB's use the same basic hop-up system that the TM VSR Sniper Rifle series uses. I think that that says something. However, since an upgrader is never content with stock there are a few things you can do to make your already good gun better. First, a tightbore inner barrel will do a lot towards making your shots more consistent at long range. I have target tested a stock TM 4.3 barrel (94.5mm), a 9Ball 6.03 5.1 barrel (112.5), and a PDI 6.01 barrel (162.5mm) in the same gun and noticed a significant (to me at least) improvement in consistency out past 25m. I will admit that accuracy testing can at times be more of an art than a science since it is hard to quantify accuracy without a significant amount of equipment. However, I figure that my sharing my personal observations will at least help give a general idea o change that can be expected. To summarize, a good tightbore should help the gun with shot consistency as well as power. Second, while the stock TM Hop-up bucking isn't bad there are several different after market replacements that can usually help one pick up a bit more range. The 9Ball chamber packing is probably the most popular bucking choice since it does the most to create a better seal and boost power output a few FPS. Since the hop-up mech is the same as the TM VSR series all on the First hop-up buckings designed for the VSR are also options. I also believe that there is a KM option as well. I have yet to see a comparison between all three types but if you are truly an accuracy buff it is good to know that there are a variety of options out there. After what I have suggested above I just want to reiterate that the Hi-Capa is more than adequately accurate out of the box for a pistol. I have not trouble hitting man sized targets at 25m+. IV. Reliability Upgrades While Hi-Capa's are very reliable guns out of the box many users like the peace of mind that comes from having replaced possibly weak stock parts with after market ones. There are many parts that are mainly cosmetic but do help reliability in a small way (like a metal trigger verses a plastic one). I won't be addressing those parts since there are many of them and they never need to be replaced for reliabilities sake. There are other parts that are worth a look as they may need to be replaced at some point. They are as follows: Loading Nozzle, Hammer Mechanism, Slide, Outer Barrels Loading Nozzles: Some people have mentioned that they have had stock loading nozzles crack. There are two different options. The first is a Guarder loading nozzle. Based on chrono test run by hkssr20det on one of my guns it became apparent that the Guarder nozzle fits looser than the stock loading nozzle and thus causes the gun to lose power and kick. Not a good deal. The other loading nozzle is made be SD. Labeled as a 'POM' kit, it includes a new loading nozzle, a valve blocker, and floating valve. The problem is that both the POM kits I have fitted have had sticky floating valves (the would stick on the first shot so that the slide would cycle but no BB would fire). This issue is fixed by just using the stock floating valve from before the upgrade. Hammer Mechanism: While I have never had any part of a hammer mech fail on me I have heard reports of issues from people with highly upgraded guns that put lots of stress on the mech. There are several good options for hammer mech parts. PDI has new hammers and sears, KM makes a solid steel hammer strut, SD makes a new valve knocker and Airsoft Surgeon/Silver Fox even make a complete replacement kit (includes hammer, hammer strut, sear, and valve knocker). There are a few other options but most builders tend to use the parts above. There is debate about whether or not it is worth replacing any of these parts unless there is a failure. I honestly think that it is not necessary but I did it on one of my Hi-Capa's anyway. If your on a budget it certainly isn't necessary though. The only guns that really need to worry about these parts are old guns that have been highly upgraded (150% hammer springs etc.). Slides: Many feel that the stock plastic slide needs to be replaced in order to use GG in the gun. This is not the case. The gun should not explode if you use GG in it. However, use of GG will cause more wear on any gun so it is a good idea to upgrade the slide and outer barrel if you plan on using GG over thousands of rounds. There are a wide variety of slide from the Hi-Capa. Manufacturers include: SD, Prime, Davidson Custom (found on RSOV), PGC, Fire Custom Shop, and Guarder. All of these slides are solid pieces that will work fine on a Hi-Capa. Some, like the Guarder have a cheap finish that matches their cheap price. Others, like PGC, SD, Prime and Davidson Custom, are very nice mid range slides that are all quality options. Fire Customs slides are almost works of art. Unfortunately some are priced at more than $600 so they ar not used very commonly. Outer Barrels: When you replace a stock slide with a metal one it is also a good idea to upgrade the outer barrel to something metal. Using a metal slide with a plastic barrel (i have tried it on several guns) works for a time but the metal ends up putting a lot of wear of the plastic outer barrel and in time I think that it could become a failure point. There are several basic choices for metal outer barrels. Guarder barrels are cast in one piece and are fairly cheap. They do work but there is some slop in them and every once in a while they can jam a gun if not fitted properly. The most popular option are the SD 2-piece chamber and outer barrel sets. They are machined form quality steel and require very little fitting. There is a wide variety of combinations so it's usually possible to get the exact look that you are after. There are other, less popular, brands, like PDI and 9Ball, that are still quality pieces depending on what you are going for. V. Cosmetic Upgrades To start off, I consider a upgrade to be cosmetic if it has very little practical effect and is mainly intended to look nice. Some people who upgrade their guns do so only for performance reasons. If you are one of those people you probably don't need to waste your time reading this. Other people like to make their guns look realistic or even just 'cool looking'. Unlike the other sections I am not going to do a play by play break down of the cosmetic accessories available for Hi-Capas. This is mainly because there is no such thing as a bad or good cosmetic upgrade. In other words, beauty is in the eye of the beholder (although I believe that Homer Simpson put forward the idea that beauty is in the eye of the beer holder). Once you figure out what you want you can look it up in the Appendix B or C (once they are done that is) and find out more in depth information What I do want to say about cosmetic accessories is that the sky's the limit. You can spend thousands (literally I'm afraid) on custom parts that don't do much other than look good. I have found that the single best way to find ideas for Hi-Capa's to build is to go to DEN Trinities site (see links in VII) and search 'Hi Capa'. If you want to see truly out of this world guns and parts check out Fire Custom Shop (see links in VII). VI. Niche Upgrades A. Competitive Shooting Upgrades I personally don't shoot competitively but I have built race styled Hi-Capas before so I have handled parts related to race builds. Airsoft race guns are generally built to have as little kick as possible and are commonly equipped with mag wells and optics (open guns). Internally the low kick goal is commonly pursued through the use of short stroke (SS) kits (springs or recoil rod buffers) and lightening the slide using stock plastic slides, porting, and AS BBU's as well as a number of hand made custom parts (see links at bottom of section). Before I go further I want to say that my knowledge isn't comprehensive but I can at least outline the basic points. I will also cover airsoft comp options in this section (even though they are really only good for covering longer inner barrels and making the gun a bit more front heavy). 1) Mag Wells - Mag wells are available from several different companies. SD and WE make mag wells specifically for the Hi-Capa. They both seem to fit the stock grip easily but the SD well does require fitting when used with an after market grip. In addition PGC, SD, and CP (there may be other obscure brands that I forgetting) make WA SVI mag wells which apparently can be fit on TM Hi-Capas (I have had multiple unrelated sources tell me this). However, they are not a drop in fit (some say they are a bit loose) so I don't really recommend them. Mag wells are supposed to help speed up reloads (by helping channel the mag into the grip) and I feel that they are a positive asset to a Hi-Capa. However, unless you like the look etc. they are not a necessary upgrade. 2) Optic Mounts - If you want to build a killer open pistol you will probably want to mount an optic on it. There are several options available. My personal favorite (and the only one that I have worked with) is the SD line of optics mounts. They are built for TM 5.1's (don't really work with 4.3's) and mount using the knockouts for the lower rail (you can't have the rail installed). This is great because it means that, unlike the other options, no drilling, taping, etc. is necessary to attach the optics mount. It also means that it only takes about two minutes to remove the optic mount. The SD optic works with any optic that can mount on a common rail (I use an ATN and I have seen people use a variety of clone airsoft optics as well). The other railed optic mount option is G&P. Their optic mounts are installed by drilling and tapping the side of the frame so that you can screw the optic mount on. I think that this system is time consuming but it does give the gun a certain look. It also works fine with the TM 4.3. AS offers a nice mount for a tubular optic like an Aimpoint. It installs like a G&P mount and can be seen on ViciousV10's Hi-Capa in Appendix A. My guess is that optic mounts for WA's and RS guns could also be made to work but it would be a challenging project that an amateur probably wouldn't want to attempt (I certainly don't). 3) Short Stroking (SS) - The idea behind SSing a slide is to lessen its travel to cut down on recoil. This can be accomplished by putting a buffer on the recoil guide rod or by using a very strong spring (9Ball makes an SS spring which I own but haven tried). Most people use home made buffers (I have one made for me by the4power that works a charm) but I know that Proud also makes a SS buffer (I think it is for WA's actually) that is supposed to work (haven't used it myself though). For more information on home made buffers check out the links below. 4) Comps - While airsoft comps don't work like RS comps they do have some uses; they are a low profile way to cover extended inner barrels and they help alter a guns balance. There are several comp options available. PDI has the widest selection of comps with different mount options, styles, and prices. I suggest that you check out their site (see VII). SD also makes a comp set for use with their Limcat slide and comp sets. I use this setup on my Hi-Capa and it is very slick and durable. TK also makes screw on comps that are similar to some pieces released by PDI. For more info on mounting threaded comps see VI B. Another important point to understand about race guns is that after market parts often are not the best options (they certainly are not necessary). Many of the aspects of building a Hi-Capa into a race gun are home brew teaks that don't cost anything. Captain Plastic has generously allowed me to use material he has written as part of this guide but I honestly feel that his articles explain home brew race tweaking tips better than I could. Below are link to his articles: Hi-Capa Modifications for Speed and Control How To Make Custom Hi-Capa Recoil Rods The first article also has a nice introduction explaining a bit more about what the goals are in building a race Hi-Capa for competitive shooting. B. Suppressors While suppressors could be considered cosmetic upgrades they could also be labeled as practical upgrades (they cover longer inner barrels). I decided that it would probably be best to classify them as a Niche Upgrade since they are not all that common on Hi-Capa's. I was going to write this part myself but Racing Maniac generously allowed me to use parts of his fitting a suppressor on a Hi-Capa guide instead. I am editing it down a bit and reformatting it but he should get credit for the information and composition. I have also removed the the WE threaded outer barrel and TK one touch adapter since they were unverified. If you would like to see the whole guide check it out here: http://airsoft-barracks.com/forums/index.php?topic=2259.0 (Italics are Racing Maniacs words) Basic Ways to Fit a Suppressor onto a TM Hi-Capa Option 1: Nine Ball SAS Kit (verified) Probably the most well known solution for TM Hi-Capa 5.1, the SAS kit attaches in the same way as Nine Ball's meat basher kit(aka the Strike Kit). It uses the stock Hi-Capa Rail mount to pick up a rail and a threaded block to go before the barrel. This block then accepts a included 14mm+(I think 14mm - is available as well) adaptor for which to attach your silencer: Pros: Looks kinda cool, simple and effective, and relatively affordable. Cons: I personally am not a fan of this attachment method using the rail mount. For the short rail that Hi-Capa comes with the mount is fine, the rail hugs the contour of the frame, and sits aligned to the frame, but the Nine Ball one does not hug the contour properly, and with the meat of the parts stick far ahead of the mount, I've found that you can mis-align the whole kit with respect to the barrel. And with this kit you WILL have holstering problem as not much holster fits Hi-Capa as is, this will add to that. Option 2: PDI Comp style inner barrel mount (verified, works with 4.3 as well) Get these with PDI extended inner barrels in 6 + inch variety(or 5" + if you use a 4.3), they clamp onto your long inner barrel with a adapter with 3 set screws, and the adapter can be had in 14mm +/- variety. Pros: Good for hiding inner barrels, and works well with them too. Good quality parts, and aligns with the barrel properly. Relatively affordable with kits. Also workable with comp too. Cons: The adapters do tend to move as the gun fires because of the outer barrel movement may push the adapter along. It adds weight to the inner barrel assembly which may have undesirable effect. There will be a gap between the tip of outer barrel to the adapter when the slide is pulled back, which may not suit everyone's visual standard..... I have also used these cheap PDI adapters to great effect. I haven't had issues with mine moving around but I think that that may be partially because I am using them on solid stainless barrels. I did notice some slipping issues on a friends 4.3 that was using a stock brass 5" barrel. I find the biggest con to be the gap when the slide is locked back (as mentioned above). Option 3: SD Slide/Bushing/Barrel Combo (verified) Most elaborate solution, with I think the best result. This requires you to use a SD slide with available bushing groove, as well as their bushing kit. By using these it allows you to run 1911 straight barrel on Hi-Capa which comes stock with tapered Bull barrel. Once you have the proper slide and bushing kit, you can go with TK 1911 threaded barrel that I've seen somewhere, or go with SD 1911/2011 chamber with SD 1911 straight outer barrel with silencer adapter. Note that you need to have a proper chamber thats labeled for suitable with Hi-capa and 1911, or else the thread is not compatible, and you end up with a barrel that sticks out: I find personally that DEN have the best reference as to which chambers are suitable for what, and most selection of chambers available for Hi-Capa/1911 from SD. FYI I ran Barsto .45 ACP for the one that didn't fit, and changed to a Colt .45 Auto which fits properly. Pros: Looks the best, free-up the inner barrel, installation is simple drop with the compatible parts. Cons: Cost, weight, only compatible with some SD slides (unverified), not compatible with 4.3 AFAIK, you HAVE to run bushing. VII. Finding and Buying Upgrades There are so many parts available for the Hi-Capa that it can sometimes be a bit of a challenge to find what people recommend to you. The most important thing to know is that GBB parts are hard to find in the US. If you are serious about getting your hands on some quality bits and pieces you will need to be ordering parts from Asia (Hong Kong mostly). I know that some people are nervous about order from overseas but I have to say, in my experience, that HK retailers are professional and fast. Also, unlike total guns, it is easy to get parts through customs. Rather than type out a list of stores I will simply post hkssr20det's where to buy GBB's and GBB Parts Guide. I do want give some basic pointers about places to check out though. The 'Big Three" Hong Kong GBB parts carriers are Den Trinity, UNcompany, and WGC Shop. If you want a part check those places first. Other shops of note include X-Fire (PDI's Japanese outlet) and Fire Custom Shop (insane looking custom parts, also very expensive). Where to buy GBB's and GBB Parts Guide - http://airsoft-barracks.com/forums/index.p...msg5455#msg5455 VIII. Useful Hi-Capa Links Hi-Capa Modifications for Speed and Control How To Make Custom Hi-Capa Recoil Rods Buying GBB Parts Guide Link to post Share on other sites
Romulus Posted April 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Appendix A: Member's Parts Lists - The following guns have been upgraded to different individuals. They are an excellent way to get a feel for what you want in your own Hi-Capa(s) (Disclaimer: The owners of all of the guns below have given permission from them to be used in this appendix) Romulus's Limcat Custom: TM Hi-Capa 5.1 TM Custom Stippled and Painted Stock Grip TM Custom Painted Mag Base Plate Guarder Hi-Flow Guarder 150% Recoil Spring Guarder 150% Hammer Spring SD Enhanced Loading Nozzle SD Valve Blocker SD Hot Shot Magwell (Custom Painted/Polished) SD Mag Feed Lip SD Limcat Slide (Two Tone) SD Recoil Bushing (Silver) SD Limcat Comp (Two Tone) SD 'STI .38 Super' Comp Barrel SD Type A Optic Mount SD SHPD Stickers SD Piston Head PDI 7" 6.01 (163mm) KM Stainless Guide Rod 9Ball Floating Valve Spring 9Ball Long Slim Slide Catch (Silver) 9Ball Thumb Safety (Silver) 9Ball Chamber Packing ATN Ultra Reflex Sight (note: this picture is not 100% current) Power: 410 FPS over 10 shots (GG, .2 Toytechs, 70F) # of shots per mag: TBA # of shots total: 2000+ Comments: I have had no parts failures on this gun thus far. I did replace the frame due to excessive wear though. I probably have 2000+ rounds through the gun at this time. Hkssr20det's SVI Expert 6.0 (Chairsoft Custom Works): TM Hi Capa 5.1 Slide/Frame SD SVI Expert 6.0 Slide - CNC Aluminum SD SVI LDC (long dust cover) SVI Frame - CNC Almunimum SD Steel 6" Outer Barrel (Bull Barrel) SD Steel Infinity .45 ACP Chamber SD Steel 6" Guide Rod plus a single washer and rubber buffer to stop slide over travel Barrel PDI 6.01mm Stainless Tight Bore 6" Nine Ball Hop Up Bucking Blowback Unit SD POM Loading Nozzle King Arms Piston King Arms Floating Valve Nine Ball Floating Valve Spring (from Dyna Piston) Trigger/Hammer Mech PDI Stainless STI Trigger (short) PDI Stainless STI Spur Hammer KM Stainless Hammer Strut Carom Shot Stainless Sear KM Stainless Valve Knocker King Arms Recoil & Hammer Springs (150%) Magazine SD Mag Lips (I broke my stock ones, don't drop your mag) Carom Shot Hi Flow Valve Cosmetic Freedom Art Fiber Optic Front Sight (Green) SD Fiber Optic Rear Sight Blade (Red) Nine Ball Long Slim Slide Stop TM Dual Tone Mag Catch WE Magwell - Matte Silver Power: 378.77 over 10 shots (Toytec .20; Green Gas (Bestek); XCortech Chrono; 65 degrees) # of shots per mag: 15-20 # of shots total: 1000 Comments: I built this gun for a number of reasons. I did plan it for the look, a 6" LDC SVI, but I was sick of my WA fouling up. Once I achieved the look, I started looking for power. It has been short stroked. It has run lighter recoil springs for efficiencies sake. Right now it is in the ultimate kick/power form. The slide itself is heavy, so the recoil is much higher than a 5" even. This also kills the efficiency. Something to remember when building is that weight is the enemy of efficiency (in terms of the slide, the part that moves). Also most upgraded hammer/sear systems with a heavy hammer spring is going to equal heavy trigger pull. I have experimented with lightening them, but no matter what, upgrading those parts is going to tighten everything up. Now this is also a good thing since it makes the break point clear and distinct. You will know when this gun is going to go off, each and every time you pull the trigger. This particular set-up has probably 1,000 rounds through it (maybe). It is a heavy kick, heavy springed gun, so wear and tear is probably a bit higher than most people's guns, despite the low shot count. This particular set-up is built for ultimate fps and recoil, and thus the efficiency is from poor to awful. Right this moment, with it being decently chilly inside, and without truly warming the magazine, it gets about 15 - 20 per fill. I know, pathetic. But it does shoot 370+. ViciousV10's Brazo Custom TM HiCapa 5.1 Davidson Custom Kodiak Slide Shooters Design SV Frame Shooters Design Limcat Compensator Shooters Design Outer Barrel For Compensator Shooters Design DOM Magwell Shooters Design POM Loading Nozzle Shooters Design Rear Sight Base Shooters Design Grips Shooters Design Mag Bases Shooters Design Feed Lips King Arms Floating Valve King Arms 150% Hammer Spring King Arms 150% Recoil Spring PDI 6.01mm 7” Inner Barrel PDI STI Short Trigger 9Ball HopUp Rubber 9Ball Floating Valve Spring Airsoft Surgeon CNC Al BBU Airsoft Surgeon Hammer W/Strut Airsoft Surgeon Sear Airsoft Surgeon Valve Knocker Airsoft Surgeon Scope Mount AimPoint 3000 RDS Firefly Bearing Recoil Guide Rod Custom Short Stroke RS CMC Titanium Main Spring Cap TM Ported Mag Valves TM Silver Beavertail, Mag Catch, Slide Stop, Thumb Safeties (Dual-Stainless 4.3) Average FPS: 398fps, Guarder Chrono, KSC 0.20g BBs Approximate # of shots: 2000+ Average # shots per mag: 35 Comments:Not including my KSC Glocks, this is my favorite gun I've built. Hkssr20det's TM Hi Capa Race Gun (Chairsoft Custom Works) TM Hi Capa 5.1 Shamrock Studios Stippled Grip PDI 6.01mm 6" Tight Bore PDI Barrel Shroud Nine Ball Bucking Airsoft Surgeon Blowback Housing & Integral Piston SD POM Loading Nozzle Set TM Floating Valve FireFly Recoil Guide Rod w/ Bearings Nine Ball Short Stroke Recoil Spring TM Dual Tone Trigger Nine Ball Commander Hammer KM Stainless Hammer Strut King Arms Hammer Spring SD Mag Lips Carom Shot Hi Flow Valve TM Dual Tone Slide Stop TM Dual Tone Ambi Safeties TM Dual Tone Grip Safety Nine Ball Extended Mag Catch WE Magwell SD Optic Mount King Arms Reflex Sight (Red/Green) Average FPS: 356.77 FPS (Toytec .20s, XCortech Chrono, 65 degrees, indoors.) Approximate # of shots: 700 Average # shots per mag: Comments: This build has a few hundred rounds through it (600-700 tops) but the frame has had a few thousand through it since it has been through more than 4 complete builds. Built for accuracy and speed, this wasn't built for high fps, but the barrel takes care of that anyway. Very light kick, almost none, with a very high cycle speed. This is my attempt at a race gun. (The average FPS was calculated from the following: 1 - 358.4 2 - 364 3 - 361.9 4 - 361.5 5 - 364.1 6 - 354.7 7 - 353.3 8 - 352.2 9 - 348.6 10 - 349 Average: 356.77)- Rom Link to post Share on other sites
Romulus Posted April 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Appendix B - Individual Upgrades Examined/Reviewed (by Category) Thanks to ViciousV10's for contributing comments to this project. Barrel Bushings - SD: PDI: Barrel Jackets - PDI: Base Plates - SD: Great SD quality, needed for smooth fit with SD magwells. - ViciousV10's 9Ball: BBUs - AS: AS BBU - Amazing quality, SUPER LIGHT, improves cycle speed a great deal. Drop-in fit with stock slides, SD slides and Davidson Custom slides. Downside, the piston head is attached to the cylinder unit so you cannot use any other aftermarket pistons with it. You can increase the compression by replacing the AS piston oring with an SD piston oring. Very highly recommended unit and a great price. - ViciousV10's Chambers - PDI: SD: SD has a whole range of machined steel chambers available for Hi-Capas and 1911's. I have handle several different chambers and they have all been high quality piecs that didn't require very much fitting. These are probably the most popular outer barrel/chamber option for Hi-Capa builds. Chassis - FA: SD: Comps - PDI: PDI makes a whole line of different PDI comps. I have only worked with the cheaper 14mm threaded versions that use a adapter on an extended inner barrel but I have been very impressed with what I have seen. They are cleanly machined and have a nice even matte finish which has held up well to use. I recommend these as an aesthetically pleasing way to cheaply cover an extended inner barrel. SD: The only comps SD makes come with their Limcat kits. You must have an SD comp outer barrel in order to use an SD Comp. I use this setup on my Limcat and I have to say that I am very impressed with it. It is not very expensive but it is rock solid and looks great. Really a very good system. The only downside is that you basically have to want to build an SD Limcat to have one. TK: Floating Valves - FF: KA: Very nice quality. The o-ring provides a better seal than other FVs. Also the aluminum is a nice reinforcement over the stock plastic unit. Downside, it's pricey since it only comes with the KA piston set. Although, the KA piston is a very nice unit as well. - ViciousV10's SD: SD includes a floating valve in their POM kits (Loading nozzle, Floating Valve, and Valve Blocker). However, on both the POM fits I have fitted the SD floating valve would stick in the SD loading nozzle after one shot. This meant that the slide would cycle but no gas could get through to fire a BB. This issue is fixed by using the stock floating valve with the rest of the POM kit. In other words, unless you do some major fitting an SD floating valve is useless (if you want your gun to fire BB's). Grip Medallions - SD: DEN has both SVI and Smokin' Hole SHPD grip medallion stickers available. They are for use in SD and WE after market grips. They are great quality and help lead a realist look to most guns. At $3 dollars they won't break the bank either. Grips - SD: SD has a whole series of grips in different colors. They also come with a new plastic trigger and MSH as well as new mounting screws and STI and SD grip medallions. There are also fake screws included so that it looks like the grip has 4 attach points rather than two. I have found that SD grips usually need to have some fitting down around the mag catch and trigger in order to function smoothly. Still, they are a good quality grip that looks sharp and feels better than a stock Hi-Capa grip. TK: TM: WE: Hammers - PDI: AS: 9Ball: KM: Carom: Hammer Springs - Guarder: I use a Guarder hammer spring in my Limcat. It is probably the hardest hammer spring out there. It's fine in a maxed out gun but it could be a bit much for a lightly upgraded Hi-Capa. It comes in a set with a recoil spring. KA: I use a KA hammer spring in my moderately upgraded Hi-Capa. It isn't quite as hard as the Guarder and is also a touch cheaper. Again, it comes in a set with a recoil spring. I have found these springs to be the stiffest and smoothest. Def stiffer than the SD hammer and recoil ring set. Highly recommend the KA set. - ViciousV10's SD: The SD hammer spring is softer than the Guarder and KA springs. It also has a nice black finish. I think that unless you want a super heavy duty set up the SD hammer spring would be the best hammer spring to use. Like the springs above it comes in a set with a recoil spring. 9Ball: RCC: G&G: Hammer Struts – KM: The KM hammer strut is a nice steel piece to replace the weak looking stock pot metal part. It also comes with a new pin to attach it to the hammer. I don't think that I lightly upgraded gun needs one of these but it is good for peace of mind if you are using a strong hammer spring and shooting the gun a lot. AS: HFs - Guarder: My current Limcat is using a Guarder HF which has not only increase power dramatically but also proved to be very reliable. Based on looking at other parts lists I would have to say that the Guarder valve is one of the most commonly used Hi-Capa HF's so it is probably a good choice (I certainly would buy more for my gun). TK: KM: 9Ball: Mosquito Molds: FF: Hop-up Buckings - 9Ball: The 9Ball bucking (called a 'Chamber Packing') is a nice purple piece of rubber. I didn't notice to mch difference in accuracy when I installed it but it did seal better on the barrel which help the gun gain a few FPS. Definitely a solid part. KA: KM: FF: Firefly Hard hop-up bucking - The name can throw you off a bit because the unit itself is extremely soft. It is actually called "hard" because the softer rubber material allows the hop-up bar to engage more than normal, making the hop-up "harder". I don't like this unit as much as the 9Ball because it doesn't hold the BBs as well. - ViciousV10's Inner Barrels - PDI: As I said in the main body PDI's 6.01mm inner barrels are amazing parts. They are made from cold forged stainless and then polished (they also sell variations with a Palsontie coating). I have used them in multiple builds and have never had any issues. They deliver an amazing power boost and help out with accuracy to boot. I'll put it this way, if I need a TB for a build I always buy the PDI if it is available. Dee's Customs: DBC is the other manufacturer of 6.01mm inner barrels. I have used their products and have been favorable impressed. However, their barrels are made from tarnished brass as opposed to PDI stainless so I go PDI whenever possible. However, if you need a custom tightbore then DBC is a good option. 9Ball: 9Ball TB's are 6.03mm ID so they don't quite produce the same increases that PDI and DBC TB's do. However, they are nearly half the price so if you are on a budget these are the next best option. They appear to be made on polished stainless and very closely resemble PDI barrels. KM: Smokey's: TK: Loading Nozzles – Guarder: The Guarder loading nozzles are sturdy enough but after hkssr20det did some chrono tests on mine we discovered that they are built to such loose tolerances (worse than stock) that they resulted in a loss of power and efficiency. I wouldn't ever recommend using one unless it's your only option. PGC: SD: The SD loading nozzle is the primary part of their POM kit. The nozzle drops right in and works great. I have never had problems with either of mine. I can't say the same for the floating valve that comes with the kit (addressed in floating valve section) but that is a small price to pay for a good loading nozzle. I would recommend this piece since I always buy them for my guns. Mag Catches – 9Ball: Mag Fill Valve - SD: The mag fill valve is pretty much just a replacement TM part. Unless your mag is leaking from the fill valve one of these bits won't do you any good. Still, they have helped me rebuild old mags so they are worth knowing able. Mag Lips - Proud: SD: Sd mag lips are made of purple plastic. I swapped one onto one of my mags so that I could have a spare stock mag lip. I was impressed by the SD piece because it seemed to be built to much closer tolerances than the TM lip. This made it easier to load as well as unload. I also found that the SD lip fixed any possibility of double feeding which can occur with heavily worn TM mag lips. It's certainly not a necessary upgrade but it is very good for those of use who like to shot a lot. Magwells – PGC (for WA's): SD: SD produces a whole range of CNCed magwells for the Hi-Capa series. I have found the ones I have handled to be very solid pieces. They don't require any fitting for a stock grip but they do need some fitting to be used with an SD and presumably WE) grip. WE: WE magwells only come in one style but have two finishes (Chrome and Matte). If you want a matte magwell this is pretty much your only option. They drop right onto stock grips and, in my opinion, do their job quite effectively. If you like the style these a a good cheaper alternative to the SD magwells. MSHs – 9Ball: Outer Barrels - PDI: SD: The SD range of outer barrels mates up with the chambers mentioned above. I have to say the the SD pieces are great quality and are easy to work with. They seem to be the most widely used option for upgraded Hi-Capas and I use them in my projects. 9Ball: Guarder: I have had the dubious privilege to use a Guarder one piece outer barrel that came attached to one of my base guns for a project. While it was a metal outer barrel that works fairly well it did fit loosely and occasionally caused the slide to bind up. I really wasn't impressed with this piece and ended up selling it and getting an SD barrel set. Unless you are very hard up for cash I wouldn't go for a Guarder. Smokey's: Creation: Piston Heads - PDI: PGC: PGC piston heads use an o-ring and are made out of metal. They look very similar to SD piston heads but don't fit as tightly. I personally think that the SD piston head is a better option than the PGC but the PGC should work fine if you just happen to have one (that's why I have one in one of my guns). 9Ball: The 9Ball Dyna piston head is very popular for Hi-Capa's and 1911's it is a anodized red metal o-ring type piston that has been ported to help it seal better. Unfortunately I have heard reports that the porting works too well when guns are used with Red Gas or CO2 because they have a tendency to blow their o-rings off at high pressure. Thus, if you want a good low pressure setup I recommend the Dyna. However, if you think you might be using high pressure gases I would go with the SD piston head. SD: Probably the best option for the Hi-Capa, the SD piston head is an O-ring type head that is constructed from metal. I think that they probably create the best overall seal over a variety of temperatures and pressures. My maxed Hi-Capa uses one. Guarder: TK: KA: Plunger Spring Sets - 9Ball: Nice reinforced part over the stock pot metal. Not really needed though. - ViciousV10's Recoil Bushings - PDI: SD: SD recoil bushings normally come with SD slides. They are a simpler cylindrical design and seem to be made from steel. They are silver and seem to fit a bit smoother than the stock recoil bushings. I like them and use them on both my Hi-Capas. They certainly are not something that you need to put a lot of effort into finding, they are just goo to use when you have them. Recoil Spring Guides - Carom: KM: I bought a KM recoil spring guide because I need to use my stock recoil guide in another project. The KM guide is a nice chunk of steel that fitted a bit tighter than the stock guide. However, it really doesn't do anything better or worse than the stock recoil guide. No real reason to upgrade this part. PDI: 9Ball: FF: Firefly bearing recoil rod - Best recoil rod around. The ball bearing washer makes for amazingly smooth action. Highly recommended. - ViciousV10's Guarder: Recoil Springs - PDI: 9Ball: KA: The KA recoil spring isn't quite as hard as the Guarder but is also a touch cheaper. Again, it comes in a set with a hammer spring. I guess it's a good middle ground option. I have found these springs to be the stiffest and smoothest. Def stiffer than the SD hammer and recoil ring set. Highly reccomend the KA set. - ViciousV10's Guarder: I use a Guarder recoil spring in my Limcat. It is probably the hardest recoil spring out there. It's fine in a maxed out gun but it could be a bit much for a lightly upgraded Hi-Capa. It comes in a set with a hammer spring. SD: The SD recoil spring is softer than the Guarder and KA springs. It also has a nice black finish. I think that unless you want a super heavy duty set up the SD recoil spring would be the best recoil spring to use. Like the springs above it comes in a set with a hammer spring. Good units but not as stiff or smooth as the KA springs. - ViciousV10's Angs: Safeties - 9Ball: I have a 9Ball single side extended safety on one of my Hi-Capa's and I am very happy with it. I looks sharp, has a beefy finish that hasn't shown any wear and is a drop in fit. Certainly worth it if you want to change the look and function of your gun. FA: Scope Mounts - SD: I use a 5.1 scope mount on my Limcat. It mounts using the rail punch outs which means it is far easier to install than other scope mounts that require you to drill and tap the frame. This is piece is rock solid and hold my ATN Optic without any issues. Highly recommended. G&P: 9Ball: AS: Great quality, tricky to mount since you need to drill and tap the frame. A bit pricey but a great unit. - ViciousV10's Sears - AS: PDI: Carom: Sights - SD: SD's only sight related part is a new fiber optic sight blade for the Hi-Capa 5.1's Bomar rear sight. I used one and found that while the fiber optic (ness?) was nice the rear sight aperture was wider than the stock rear sight blades. This meant that my sights weren't as precise. This is a good thing at close range but a bad thing for precision shooting. for more details see my rear sight write up: http://airsoft-barracks.com/forums/index.php?topic=774.0 9Ball: FA: Slides - Davidson Custom: Great quality on par with SD. The fitment on a stock frame is drop-in but the tolerance is too tight on a SD frame. Needed to sand down the sides of the rails to fit it on the SD frame. - ViciousV10's Guarder: Guarder slides are the cheapest slides for the Hi-Capa. They start at $55 and go up from there. I have handled them and while they work their finish is pretty poor (especially the silver which is almost powdery) they do do the job. It is also necessary to radically modify the BBU so you can't really swap to a better slide very easily. I guess that if you are on a budget these work but I would honestly recommend going with a better slide like an SD. SD: SD makes a huge variety of Hi-Capa slides. SD finish is I quality and they are the most common slides to be found on a Hi-Capa. They require a minimum of fitting and have a long life. If you are building a Hi-Capa there is a good chance that you will want to use an SD slide. Fire Customs: PGC: TK: Prime: Creation: Slide Catches - 9Ball: I use an expended 'long slim' slide catch on my Limcat and am very pleased with it. It looks good, has an awesome finish, and really does make the gun easier to operate. Definitely recommended. Protec: Slide Spacers - TK: Strike Kits - 9Ball: Threaded Adapters - TK: PDI: PDI's threaded adapters are cheap and very effective. They allow one to attach comps or suppressors to an extended inner barrel. If you want to cheaply cover a long inner barrel these are a good choice. More info in the suppressor section. Triggers - PDI: PDi has a whole range of high quality Hi-Capa and 1911 triggers (they are interchangeable). Their finish is nice and they are not very hard to fit (though they do need a bit of tweaking). the down side is that they are very expensive for what they are. Still, if you want a certain look they are the way to go. TK: 9Ball: SD: KM: FA: Valve Blockers - SD: The SD valve blocker comes with the POM kit. It drops right in and seems to do a fine job. Not much else to say about it other than that it is worth using if you buy a POM kit. Valve Knockers - AS: KM: SD: Link to post Share on other sites
Romulus Posted April 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Appendix C - Individual Upgrades Examined/Reviewed (by Brand) Thanks to ViciousV10's for contributing comments to this project. 9Ball/First Factory - Base Plates: Hammers: Hammer Springs: HF's: Hop-up Buckings: The 9Ball bucking (called a 'Chamber Packing') is a nice purple piece of rubber. I didn't notice to mch difference in accuracy when I installed it but it did seal better on the barrel which help the gun gain a few FPS. Definitely a solid part. Inner Barrels: 9Ball TB's are 6.03mm ID so they don't quite produce the same increases that PDI and DBC TB's do. However, they are nearly half the price so if you are on a budget these are the next best option. They appear to be made on polished stainless and very closely resemble PDI barrels. Mag Catches: MSHs: Outer Barrels: Piston Heads: The 9Ball Dyna piston head is very popular for Hi-Capa's and 1911's it is a anodized red metal o-ring type piston that has been ported to help it seal better. Unfortunately I have heard reports that the porting works too well when guns are used with Red Gas or CO2 because they have a tendency to blow their o-rings off at high pressure. Thus, if you want a good low pressure setup I recommend the Dyna. However, if you think you might be using high pressure gases I would go with the SD piston head. Plunger Spring Sets: Nice reinforced part over the stock pot metal. Not really needed though. - Viciousv10's Recoil Spring Guides: Recoil Springs: Safeties: I have a 9Ball single side extended safety on one of my Hi-Capa's and I am very happy with it. I looks sharp, has a beefy finish that hasn't shown any wear and is a drop in fit. Certainly worth it if you want to change the look and function of your gun. Scope Mounts: Sights: Slide Catch: I use an expended 'long slim' slide catch on my Limcat and am very pleased with it. It looks good, has an awesome finish, and really does make the gun easier to operate. Definitely recommended. Strike Kits: Triggers: Airsoft Surgeon - BBUs: Amazing quality, SUPER LIGHT, improves cycle speed a great deal. Drop-in fit with stock slides, SD slides and Davidson Custom slides. Downside, the piston head is attached to the cylinder unit so you cannot use any other aftermarket pistons with it. You can increase the compression by replacing the AS piston o-ring with an SD piston o-ring. Very highly recommended unit and a great price. - ViciousV10's Hammers: Hammer Struts: Scope Mounts: Great quality, tricky to mount since you need to drill and tap the frame. A bit pricey but a great unit. - ViciousV10's Sears: Valve Knockers: Angs - Recoil Springs: Carom Shot - Hammers: Recoil Spring Guides: Sears: Creation - Outer Barrels: Slides: Davidson Custom - Slides: Great quality on par with SD. The fitment on a stock frame is drop-in but the tolerance is too tight on a SD frame. Needed to sand down the sides of the rails to fit it on the SD frame. - ViciousV10's Dee's Customs - Inner Barrels: DBC is the other manufacturer of 6.01mm inner barrels. I have used their products and have been favorable impressed. However, their barrels are made from tarnished brass as opposed to PDI stainless so I go PDI whenever possible. However, if you need a custom tightbore then DBC is a good option. FireFly - Floating Valves: HFs: Hop-up Buckings: Firefly Hard hop-up bucking - The name can throw you off a bit because the unit itself is extremely soft. It is actually called "hard" because the softer rubber material allows the hop-up bar to engage more than normal, making the hop-up "harder". I don't like this unit as much as the 9Ball because it doesn't hold the BBs as well. - ViciousV10's Recoil Spring Guides: Firefly bearing recoil rod - Best recoil rod around. The ball bearing washer makes for amazingly smooth action. Highly recommended. - ViciousV10's Fire Customs - Comps: Outer Barrels: Slides: Freedom Art - Chassis: Safeties: Sights: Triggers: G&G - Hammer Springs: G&P - Scope Mounts: Guarder - Hammer Springs: I use a Guarder hammer spring in my Limcat. It is probably the hardest hammer spring out there. It's fine in a maxed out gun but it could be a bit much for a lightly upgraded Hi-Capa. It comes in a set with a recoil spring. HF's - My current Limcat is using a Guarder HF which has not only increase power dramatically but also proved to be very reliable. Based on looking at other parts lists I would have to say that the Guarder valve is one of the most commonly used Hi-Capa HF's so it is probably a good choice (I certainly would buy more for my gun). Loading Nozzles: The Guarder loading nozzles are sturdy enough but after hkssr20det did some chrono tests on mine we discovered that they are built to such loose tolerances (worse than stock) that they resulted in a loss of power and efficiency. I wouldn't ever recommend using one unless it's your only option. Outer Barrels: I have had the dubious privilege to use a Guarder one piece outer barrel that came attached to one of my base guns for a project. While it was a metal outer barrel that works fairly well it did fit loosely and occasionally caused the slide to bind up. I really wasn't impressed with this piece and ended up selling it and getting an SD barrel set. Unless you are very hard up for cash I wouldn't go for a Guarder. Piston Heads: Recoil Spring Guides: Recoil Springs: I use a Guarder recoil spring in my Limcat. It is probably the hardest recoil spring out there. It's fine in a maxed out gun but it could be a bit much for a lightly upgraded Hi-Capa. It comes in a set with a hammer spring. Slides: Guarder slides are the cheapest slides for the Hi-Capa. They start at $55 and go up from there. I have handled them and while they work their finish is pretty poor (especially the silver which is almost powdery) they do do the job. It is also necessary to radically modify the BBU so you can't really swap to a better slide very easily. I guess that if you are on a budget these work but I would honestly recommend going with a better slide like an SD. King Arms - Floating Valves: Very nice quality. The o-ring provides a better seal than other FVs. Also the aluminum is a nice reinforcement over the stock plastic unit. Downside, it's pricey since it only comes with the KA piston set. Although, the KA piston is a very nice unit as well. - ViciousV10's Hammer Springs: I use a KA hammer spring in my moderately upgraded Hi-Capa. It isn't quite as hard as the Guarder and is also a touch cheaper. Again, it comes in a set with a recoil spring. I have found these springs to be the stiffest and smoothest. Def stiffer than the SD hammer and recoil ring set. Highly reccomend the KA set. - ViciousV10's Hop-up Buckings: Piston Heads: Recoil Springs: The KA recoil spring isn't quite as hard as the Guarder but is also a touch cheaper. Again, it comes in a set with a hammer spring. I guess it's a good middle ground option. I have found these springs to be the stiffest and smoothest. Def stiffer than the SD hammer and recoil ring set. Highly reccomend the KA set. - ViciousV10's KM - Hammers: Hammer Struts: The KM hammer strut is a nice steel piece to replace the weak looking stock pot metal part. It also comes with a new pin to attach it to the hammer. I don't think that I lightly upgraded gun needs one of these but it is good for peace of mind if you are using a strong hammer spring and shooting the gun a lot. HFs: Hop-up Buckings: Inner Barrels: Recoil Spring Guides: I bought a KM recoil spring guide because I need to use my stock recoil guide in another project. The KM guide is a nice chunk of steel that fitted a bit tighter than the stock guide. However, it really doesn't do anything better or worse than the stock recoil guide. No real reason to upgrade this part. Triggers: Valve Knockers: Mosquito Molds - HFs: PGC - Loading Nozzles: Mag Wells (for WA): Piston Heads: PGC piston heads use an o-ring and are made out of metal. They look very similar to SD piston heads but don't fit as tightly. I personally think that the SD piston head is a better option than the PGC but the PGC should work fine if you just happen to have one (that's why I have one in one of my guns). Slides: PDI - Barrel Bushings: Barrel Jackets: Chambers: Comps: Hammers: Inner Barrels: As I said in the main body PDI's 6.01mm inner barrels are amazing parts. They are made from cold forged stainless and then polished (they also sell variations with a Palsontie coating). I have used them in multiple builds and have never had any issues. They deliver an amazing power boost and help out with accuracy to boot. I'll put it this way, if I need a TB for a build I always buy the PDI if it is available. Outer Barrels: Piston Heads: Recoil Bushings: Recoil Spring Guides: Recoil Springs: Sears: Threaded Adapters: PDI's threaded adapters are cheap and very effective. They allow one to attach comps or suppressors to an extended inner barrel. If you want to cheaply cover a long inner barrel these are a good choice. More info in the suppressor section. Triggers: PDI has a whole range of high quality Hi-Capa and 1911 triggers (they are interchangeable). Their finish is nice and they are not very hard to fit (though they do need a bit of tweaking). the down side is that they are very expensive for what they are. Still, if you want a certain look they are the way to go. Prime - Slides: Protec - Slide Catches: Proud - Mag Lips: RCC - Hammer Springs: Shooters Design - Barrel Bushings: Base Plates: Great SD quality, needed for smooth fit with SD magwells. - ViciousV10's Chambers: SD has a whole range of machined steel chambers available for Hi-Capas and 1911's. I have handle several different chambers and they have all been high quality piecs that didn't require very much fitting. These are probably the most popular outer barrel/chamber option for Hi-Capa builds Chassis: Comps: The only comps SD makes come with their Limcat kits. You must have an SD comp outer barrel in order to use an SD Comp. I use this setup on my Limcat and I have to say that I am very impressed with it. It is not very expensive but it is rock solid and looks great. Really a very good system. The only downside is that you basically have to want to build an SD Limcat to have one. Floating Valves: SD includes a floating valve in their POM kits (Loading nozzle, Floating Valve, and Valve Blocker). However, on both the POM fits I have fitted the SD floating valve would stick in the SD loading nozzle after one shot. This meant that the slide would cycle but no gas could get through to fire a BB. This issue is fixed by using the stock floating valve with the rest of the POM kit. In other words, unless you do some major fitting an SD floating valve is useless (if you want your gun to fire BB's). Grip Medallions: DEN has both SVI and Smokin' Hole SHPD grip medallion stickers available. They are for use in SD and WE after market grips. They are great quality and help lead a realist look to most guns. At $3 dollars they won't break the bank either. Grips: SD has a whole series of grips in different colors. They also come with a new plastic trigger and MSH as well as new mounting screws and STI and SD grip medallions. There are also fake screws included so that it looks like the grip has 4 attach points rather than two. I have found that SD grips usually need to have some fitting down around the mag catch and trigger in order to function smoothly. Still, they are a good quality grip that looks sharp and feels better than a stock Hi-Capa grip. Hammer Springs: The SD hammer spring is softer than the Guarder and KA springs. It also has a nice black finish. I think that unless you want a super heavy duty set up the SD hammer spring would be the best hammer spring to use. Like the springs above it comes in a set with a recoil spring. Good units but not as stiff or smooth as the KA springs. - ViciousV10's Loading Nozzles: The SD loading nozzle is the primary part of their POM kit. The nozzle drops right in and works great. I have never had problems with either of mine. I can't say the same for the floating valve that comes with the kit (addressed in floating valve section) but that is a small price to pay for a good loading nozzle. I would recommend this piece since I always buy them for my guns. Mag Fill Valves: The mag fill valve is pretty much just a replacement TM part. Unless your mag is leaking from the fill valve one of these bits won't do you any good. Still, they have helped me rebuild old mags so they are worth knowing able. Mag Lips: SD mag lips are made of purple plastic. I swapped one onto one of my mags so that I could have a spare stock mag lip. I was impressed by the SD piece because it seemed to be built to much closer tolerances than the TM lip. This made it easier to load as well as unload. I also found that the SD lip fixed any possibility of double feeding which can occur with heavily worn TM mag lips. It's certainly not a necessary upgrade but it is very good for those of use who like to shot a lot. Mag Wells: SD produces a whole range of CNCed magwells for the Hi-Capa series. I have found the ones I have handled to be very solid pieces. They don't require any fitting for a stock grip but they do need some fitting to be used with an SD and presumably WE) grip. Outer Barrels: The SD range of outer barrels mates up with the chambers mentioned above. I have to say the the SD pieces are great quality and are easy to work with. They seem to be the most widely used option for upgraded Hi-Capas and I use them in my projects. Piston Heads: Probably the best option for the Hi-Capa, the SD piston head is an O-ring type head that is constructed from metal. I think that they probably create the best overall seal over a variety of temperatures and pressures. My maxed Hi-Capa uses one. Recoil Bushings: SD recoil bushings normally come with SD slides. They are a simpler cylindrical design and seem to be made from steel. They are silver and seem to fit a bit smoother than the stock recoil bushings. I like them and use them on both my Hi-Capas. They certainly are not something that you need to put a lot of effort into finding, they are just goo to use when you have them. Recoil Springs: The SD recoil spring is softer than the Guarder and KA springs. It also has a nice black finish. I think that unless you want a super heavy duty set up the SD recoil spring would be the best recoil spring to use. Like the springs above it comes in a set with a hammer spring. Good units but not as stiff or smooth as the KA springs. - ViciousV10's Scope Mounts: I use a 5.1 scope mount on my Limcat. It mounts using the rail punch outs which means it is far easier to install than other scope mounts that require you to drill and tap the frame. This is piece is rock solid and hold my ATN Optic without any issues. Highly recommended. Sights: SD's only sight related part is a new fiber optic sight blade for the Hi-Capa 5.1's Bomar rear sight. I used one and found that while the fiber optic (ness?) was nice the rear sight aperture was wider than the stock rear sight blades. This meant that my sights weren't as precise. This is a good thing at close range but a bad thing for precision shooting. for more details see my rear sight write up: http://airsoft-barracks.com/forums/index.php?topic=774.0 Slides: SD makes a huge variety of Hi-Capa slides. SD finish is I quality and they are the most common slides to be found on a Hi-Capa. They require a minimum of fitting and have a long life. If you are building a Hi-Capa there is a good chance that you will want to use an SD slide. Triggers: Valve Blockers: The SD valve blocker comes with the POM kit. It drops right in and seems to do a fine job. Not much else to say about it other than that it is worth using if you buy a POM kit. Valve Knockers: Smokeys - Inner Barrels: Outer Barrels: TK - Comps: Grips: HFs: Inner Barrels: Piston Heads: Slides: Slide Spacers: Threaded Adapters: Triggers: TM - Grips: WE - Grips: Mag Wells: WE magwells only come in one style but have two finishes (Chrome and Matte). If you want a matte magwell this is pretty much your only option. They drop right onto stock grips and, in my opinion, do their job quite effectively. If you like the style these a a good cheaper alternative to the SD magwells. Link to post Share on other sites
Romulus Posted April 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Appendix D: GBB Terms And Abbreviations Glossary 9Ball - Nine Ball (also know as First) AS - Airsoft Surgeon BBU - Blow Back Unit Comp- Compensator DEN - Den Trinity (HK parts shop) FF - FireFly FPS - Feet Per Second GBB - Gas Blow Back Airsoft Gun GG - Green Gas (roughly the same thing as Propane) HF - Hi-Flow Magazine Valve HK - Hong Kong KA - King Arms (parts manufacturer) MSC - Main Spring Cap MSH - Main Spring Housing ROF - Rate of Fire RS - Real Steel (real firearm) SD - Shooters Design (parts manufacturer) SS-Short Stroke TB - Tightbore Inner Barrel TM - Tokyo Marui (a gun manufacturer) TK - Tanio Koba WA - Western Arms (a gun manufacturer) Link to post Share on other sites
Romulus Posted April 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 I have decided that it is time to post this guide up but I would like to explain that it is not "finished". While anything of this nature is always changing in this case I am hoping to be able to continue building the guide as I am able to get parts comments from others. If you have a comment on a part for the Appendices feel free to PM it to me and I will build it into the "Version 2" of this guide. The same goes for content that would be appropriate in Appendix A. Thanks for reading. Link to post Share on other sites
Glenn Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 This is an epic post(s). What I bothered to read looks fine and dandy..comendable effort. Link to post Share on other sites
Romulus Posted April 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Thanks. I mainly wrote this out so that I wouldn't have to answer the same parts questions over and over again. Of course now I have to convince people to put in the time to read it.... Link to post Share on other sites
Utty Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Someone pin this in Important Topics. Link to post Share on other sites
Glenn Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Thanks. I mainly wrote this out so that I wouldn't have to answer the same parts questions over and over again. Of course now I have to convince people to put in the time to read it.... Oh man, you're in for a hell of a time... Link to post Share on other sites
RacingManiac Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 makes one wish there is a post like this for every kind of gun.... A lot of the stuff here will apply to 1911 too... Link to post Share on other sites
Romulus Posted April 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 I may do something similar for TM Glocks this summer once I get a chance to tear mine totally apart and tweak them. It would be fun to see a few other knowledgeable parties do similar write ups but I'm not holding my breath. Thanks for the comments. Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 Great guide, Rom. Makes me want to get another hicapa. If I haven't missed it, I think the only thing missing from making this an ultimate hicapa guide is takedown instructions for upgrading to those fancy parts (a link to wege's guide should suffice). Caution on that TM G17 hammer assembly though. Upgrading the hammer spring is a *badgeress*. Link to post Share on other sites
Romulus Posted April 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 I'll make a note to put in a link to Wege's takedown guide on my next update. I know what you mean about the TM G17 hammer mech. I actually had to take it apart in order to remove the 150% hammer spring (it was too strong so the slide wasn't cycling well). took me over an hour and a half and that was only when RSP helped me out. Of course I am now very familiar with how the whole thing works so I guess that there was a bit of an upside. Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 Rom, great guide. Thanks for taking the time to throw it together. One suggestion...maybe throw this up on some kind of wiki so that we can all update the various pieces. Link to post Share on other sites
Romulus Posted April 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 Wikipedia is actually an interesting option that I haven't thought of before. I haven't really done much on Wikipedia but I'll do some research to see how viable it would be. Thanks for the good suggestion. Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 Bloody nice reading mate. very nice. I miss my 5.1 Link to post Share on other sites
Romulus Posted April 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2008 Thanks. Do you mind if I add a link to your Hi-Capa take down guide in my next version? I haven't checked it recently but I am hoping the pictures still work. Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 go for it.. not a problem. IF the pics fail to work.. I still have them packed up here somewhere. HOWEVER, I think someone ended up making a PDF out of em.. and adding it as a file... which I think was jolly good and all. btw.. thanks for asking. I still don't believe how often it is referred to and all... Link to post Share on other sites
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