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BadAssTronaut

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While I changed most of the internals, stock parts seemed decent: corrected AoE from the factory, all metal teeth piston, aluminum piston head, their Ifrit 25K motor, decent microswitch. Only thing I would change instantly is the nozzle, which lacks internal o-ring. SIG 55x nozzle is same length, so I used Lonex one, with o-ring.

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Sigh. Someday I'll put together a solid Norwegian kit involving an MG3. What all's involved in the conversion? Stock, pistol grip, muzzle cone, and top cover? Oh, and magazine... that's the real problem as far as I can tell.

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FdfTBaL.jpg

 

G&G MG-42

- added a replica stock, with authentic proportions, texture and finish

- added original rear sight

- added genuine bakelite handles

- replica sling

- inert 100 bullet belt (more realistic than fake bullet belt supplied with the gun)

 

The finish was weathered, to better represent a combat used gun.

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Sigh. Someday I'll put together a solid Norwegian kit involving an MG3. What all's involved in the conversion? Stock, pistol grip, muzzle cone, and top cover? Oh, and magazine... that's the real problem as far as I can tell.

 

IIRC the pistol grip is the same and some MG3s have old wood stocks simply painted black, so those aren't necessary changes. The main external differences are the feed tray (and magazine) and booster assembly, plus a bunch of minor parts like the sights. I'd have gone with an MG3 over my M53 build if I could get the booster assembly off mine- it's on there seriously tight and no amount of boiling and torquing seems to help.

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IIRC the pistol grip is the same and some MG3s have old wood stocks simply painted black, so those aren't necessary changes. The main external differences are the feed tray (and magazine) and booster assembly, plus a bunch of minor parts like the sights. I'd have gone with an MG3 over my M53 build if I could get the booster assembly off mine- it's on there seriously tight and no amount of boiling and torquing seems to help.

Really? Mine unscrews really easily. Did you have to repaint it from an orange tip because IIRC the glue they use is a major pain in the *albatross* to remove.

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Really? Mine unscrews really easily. Did you have to repaint it from an orange tip because IIRC the glue they use is a major pain in the *albatross* to remove.

 

Am I being stupid and missing something obvious? It's just lift up the spring-loaded 'arm' and unscrew, right, no grub screw?

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Am I being stupid and missing something obvious? It's just lift up the spring-loaded 'arm' and unscrew, right, no grub screw?

Yeah, basically. Say, it's Zombie off IFAP in case you haven't noticed.

 

By the way, I wanted to ask - is it difficult to take apart? I'm running mine stock at the moment but I'm thinking of slapping in a new hop rubber at some point for a little extra range, then maybe doing one or two things to it in the future.

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Yeah, basically. Say, it's Zombie off IFAP in case you haven't noticed.

 

By the way, I wanted to ask - is it difficult to take apart? I'm running mine stock at the moment but I'm thinking of slapping in a new hop rubber at some point for a little extra range, then maybe doing one or two things to it in the future.

 

Oh hey, sorry, I didn't recognize you.

 

It's fairly straightforward to take apart. Separating the upper and lower gearbox halves can be a bit clunky but once you have it apart it's easy to work on. Once you know what you're doing you can get at the hop in about two minutes. If you haven't seen it already this is a great resource. One thing I'd add is that I've been running the stock box magazine motor on an 11.1V Lipo with no problems so far, so replacing the box motor doesn't seem strictly necessary. If you know how to solder I strongly recommend re-doing the box magazine circuit to run off the gun's battery.

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Some fresh new pictures of my MG3's at Berget.
post-9064-0-36893200-1469210922_thumb.jpg

My primary, normally mounted on our car (that's why it lacks the bipod in the picture). It's a Yugo M53 with lots of real steel MG3 parts, and internals from a Shoei MG42 GBB.
I've used it a lot with the old style Shoei internals, but with the newer "high cycle" GBB kit it has some reliability issues, and snapped its second airshaft during the game. Most likely it's the bracket I had made for it to hold the rear air valve in place that doesn't line up well. The older type air valve seats differently, and is a snug fit. Reluctantly I have to go back to the ~10rps old style GBB internals, until I figure something out. The higher ROF of the newer high cycle GBB kit (~18rps) is much more appropriate for an MG3, and It just sounds amazing.

 

 

 

My buddies in Berserkir Mechanized also had issues with their MG3, and I let them use my second MG.
It's my original Shoei MG42 receiver (where the internals from my primary MG was sourced), with a Wolverine SMP kit inside. I used the upper gearbox from an AGM MG to hold the SMP in place, as well as an AGM hopup chamber and outer barrel. The pistol grip is also from a real steel MG3, with a micro switch from a local electronics shop used as a trigger mechanism. No safety at the moment.

post-9064-0-59952300-1469211724_thumb.jpg
When my primary MG snapped its airshaft, I got this one back from the Berserkir-guys. They were very happy with how it performed, and so was I, even though I didn't get a fraction of the trigger time behind it that they did.

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Wrapped up my mid-2000s era UKSF spec L110A1 build. Mounted a G&G SUSAT rail onto an unrailed top cover, then modified a Seben RSM-05 dovetail-to-Weaver adapter to fit my ACOG. While the Seben adapter isn't 'proper,' it is as close as I could find to the pictured mounts.

 

L110A1, left side

 

L110A1, right side

 

L110A1, optic setup

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Looks good chap.

 

A few pointers if I may;

Its up to you but you can lose the scapa/sniper tape from the grips. it was very rarely done. Some guys did do it to use as insulation to stop the plastic from getting hot. But that practice was short lived.

The DPM 100rd cloth mag was used, but if you want to be more accurate the uksf actually used either black or aussie cam 200rd cloth mags.

lastly, the bracket that holds the ACOG is actually the L85 ACOG riser mount just turned around facing backwards.  

 

If you need any other info, fire me a pm. always happy to help.

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Yeah I got one of those black canvas 200rnd pouch, and an auscam 100rnd pouch.  Our unit no longer uses Minimi 5.56 so I have no need for them anymore.

 

If anyone has a 7.62 Minimi pouch would be greatly appreciated.

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Search for these on ebay, but you'll only find a MK48 nutsack in khaki. The green FNH commercial version which is used everywhere else than USA is waay harder to acquire


2x 7,62 MINIMI based on A&K, and a 5,56 ver on it's way. Built on custom made and real steel parts. Materials used: Tool and stainless steel

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