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Western Arms M4 CQB-R


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Hello, Kitty - as stated on airsoft-news.eu -

 

Second GBB replica of assault rifle from Western Arms is M4A1 RIS. If you fancy somewhat longer barrel- replica will be available on 5/20, price is 52,920 YEN (326.14 EUR). Click to supersize, details courtesy of LA Gunshop.

 

Think it's a good news - the production is not stopping ;)

 

 

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Okay... hmmm... well this is where I'm at...

 

As you know, I wanted to see if some RS after market parts would work with this GBB:

The RS KNS anti-reversal trigger/hammer pins. Verdict : The pins will go in, but they're about 0.5mm too close together to allow the bridge to be used. Getting the KNS pins into the receiver was a breeze, getting the original pins back in afterwards was a pain in the *albatross* because of the detent springs on either side of the receiver and the Disconnector being out of place. Which forced me to have to separate the lower and upper halves. Uggghhh... so while I had the two halves separated I decided it was a good time to try out the RS Ambi-Selector... which turned out to be another no-go as the WA receiver is about 0.5mm to 1mm too narrow so the selector didn't sit quite right. :angry:

 

In the course of having to crack this sucker open I got to see more about the internals of the piece. Having never worked on the inside of a RS AR before it took a bit of head scratching to figure out what did what and how. I "thought" I had it figured out and put everything back together... By saying "I thought", I mean that everything seemed like it should be fine except something seems wrong with it: Without a mag in the gun it seemed to operate exactly as it did before. However, when I slapped a fresh empty mag in there and pulled the trigger a LOT more gas was used than normal (it was hella LOUD) and the bolt wouldn't lock back like it should. WTF!?!! The only things that were removed when I had it open were the safety and the Disconnector. Any thoughts? :(

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can you disassembly the stock tube to put another stock?

No one seems to have answered to this question... As the original stock is plastic, I'd really want to install a metal tube instead. So my question is, can you use standard metal AEG M4 stock tubes without heavy modifications? (I'm not interested in expensive RS parts.)

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No one seems to have answered to this question... As the original stock is plastic, I'd really want to install a metal tube instead. So my question is, can you use standard metal AEG M4 stock tubes without heavy modifications? (I'm not interested in expensive RS parts.)

The WA buffer tube is metal. It just seems like plastic.

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Gas blowback is a different story.

GBBs take a HUGE pounding in use, especially when upgraded.

Show me a GBB that's 10 years old and I'll show you a GBB that's seen very limited use. Cracks and worn parts are almost inevitable when you have pneumatically operated moving parts rattling around and, in the case of an M4, rattling off 20 rounds a second.

To be fair, I do have a five-year-old WA Para-Ordnance pistol (SCW ver. 1 of course) that still runs like an absolute beauty, and I use it almost every chance I get. Only thing I've had to replace outright has been the slide (got a PGC metal slide for it) though I have had it in bits several times and do carry out extremely regular maintenance.

 

I'm not disputing your general point, though: The TM G36c (which I've had for almost as long) has definitely seen more use (as in many times more rounds put through it) and has also been far less effort to maintain (I've had it in pieces twice, and it kind of needs a new contact for the trigger switch as it's literally burned through the copper on one side, but other than that I've had no mechanical trouble at all).

 

Cosmetically, the Para is in better condition- but they're still both in excellent condition. Well- as far as the working parts go they are...

 

Basically, what I'm trying to say is, it is my experience that GBB guns can be very reliable, but that they often take more work to keep that way. If you're prepared to put the time in (and you should be aware before you buy that you WILL be putting a lot of time into the gun if you want to keep it in good condition) then GBB guns can be excepionally rewarding: If you're not, then you're probably better off with a sewing machine :P:D

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In the course of having to crack this sucker open I got to see more about the internals of the piece. Having never worked on the inside of a RS AR before it took a bit of head scratching to figure out what did what and how. I "thought" I had it figured out and put everything back together... By saying "I thought", I mean that everything seemed like it should be fine except something seems wrong with it: Without a mag in the gun it seemed to operate exactly as it did before. However, when I slapped a fresh empty mag in there and pulled the trigger a LOT more gas was used than normal (it was hella LOUD) and the bolt wouldn't lock back like it should. WTF!?!! The only things that were removed when I had it open were the safety and the Disconnector. Any thoughts? :(

 

When you say disconnector, are you talking about the full auto sear? the one that's held in place by the upper-rear most pin?

 

Is there any more resistance as you pull the bolt back with a magazine in it than prior? Also with the bolt stop I find that it doesn't always work with an empty mag. Try loading a couple of bbs into it and then see if the bolt stop functions. I've found that it helps to have the mag follower moving to pop the detent in the bolt stop up, but then again my bolt stop is jacked.

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Jesus Christ!!! I'l bloody build my own!! :D

 

 

Took the rifle for CQB skirmish today!

 

 

Rifle = PWN

Mag = ######

 

 

Got through 12 mags worth and the f'ing follower and spring are jammed down midcenter of the magazine. These things aren't worth 50bucks let alone 108!

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So, this GBB fires full auto. What would one need to have 3 round burst? I understand it requires a modified sear, so is a real steel part an option? This way one would have useful auto fire without too much cool down.

 

Secondly, I kind of wonder when the Chinese are going to clone this? Go cloners go... :D

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Poison, did you take the mag apart yet?

 

Pretty easy to do, but I understand your frustration. Again, make sure the gas is all out of the mag, then knock the roll pins out along the front edge, then the single fat pin down toward the bottom quarter of the magazine in the center. Slide the front edge and baseplate off and see what the problem is that's jamming the follower up.

 

CNC receiver. Ohhhh dear.

Edited by Wupjak
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Drooool... Inokatsu... It seems that they have even redesigned the barrel and hop up...(?) This promises a REALLY bright future for a new wave of GBB guns. Definitely some other manufacturers will want to jump into the GBB wagon pretty soon I guess. Just waiting when someone makes this kind of an announcement. And I could replace my AEG XM177E1 with Inokatsu/WA XM177 for Vietnam-scenario games... Heehee...

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Poison, did you take the mag apart yet?

 

Pretty easy to do, but I understand your frustration. Again, make sure the gas is all out of the mag, then knock the roll pins out along the front edge, then the single fat pin down toward the bottom quarter of the magazine in the center. Slide the front edge and baseplate off and see what the problem is that's jamming the follower up.

 

CNC receiver. Ohhhh dear.

 

 

Ya took it apart to fix the leak that was the loose screw holding in the well to the upper part assembly of the magazine. I'll pull it apart again a little later today. But overall the rifle did very very very well in cqb. Lots and lots of headshots :)

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Poison, did you take the mag apart yet?

 

Pretty easy to do, but I understand your frustration. Again, make sure the gas is all out of the mag, then knock the roll pins out along the front edge, then the single fat pin down toward the bottom quarter of the magazine in the center. Slide the front edge and baseplate off and see what the problem is that's jamming the follower up.

 

CNC receiver. Ohhhh dear.

 

 

Fixed it...was a kink in the spring that was preventing it from going past a certain point.

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A quick update, I can't seem to install a real buffer. I'm using a CMT mil spec...the threads on the tube might possibly be bad as it doesn't install as straight as it should. I don't recall if there are differences in the threaded end between mil spec and commercial. From what I remember, mil spec receivers had different take-down and fire control pins...the threads for the buffers were the same...I think. The WA tube is very much a mil spec tube. An AEG tube will not fit.

 

On another point, I've run through a bag of 2500 bb's using 134a and no significant failures. The bolt stop is noticeably worn and may possibly fail. There were times when the bolt catch did not trip. The only modification is the high speed trigger...otherwise, everything is stock and seems to be ok. I've never used it for long periods or long bursts. I've lubricated the bolt, loading muzzle, and the hammer/auto sear face each time. The auto sear is carving away at the bottom of the bolt, but so far, not enough to not be able to fire in full-auto.

 

Hopefully, Inokatsu will get the trades and other details right (the dust cover is wrong).

Edited by BaBaBooey
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I paid $1100 for the WA M4 and dont regret it one bit, as said the gun has some flaws but over all it KICKS *albatross* and over time just like any other eag and gbbs, parts will start to flow, and if they dont....I guess its a good thing I work in a machine shop :P but I do think the internals could have been made more simple

 

I've used mine in one game so far putting around 400 rnds through it, some slight wear on mentioned befor parts, but the kicker of it is, when I went auto everyone just stopped and looked at me blasting away...PTWs can kiss my *albatross* this thing is the bomb even if it needs a little tlc.

 

I'm not to supprised at the price of mags hell here in canada ptw mags are allmost the same price.

 

and a little side note: this gun isnt like an eag, if one gear wears out the hole gun stops working. the parts that are breaking have so far little to modest affect on the overall perfomance of the gun.

 

this is a real mill sim gun :D

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