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Western Arms M4 CQB-R


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I was in a hurry so I really didn't try too hard but the Madbull barrel nut didn't seem to fit. But the King Arms free float will clamp onto the stock WA barrel nut.

 

just thinking that since realsteel stocktube would fit.. then a real barrel nut would fit also.

 

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I was in a hurry so I really didn't try too hard but the Madbull barrel nut didn't seem to fit. But the King Arms free float will clamp onto the stock WA barrel nut.

 

 

Thanks a lot for trying that out for me! So the Madbull JP front kit is a no go then... that's too bad :(

 

But hey, on the upside if the King Arms free float (Larue replica I think) than I'll be pretty happy. Is it this one you're saying should clamp over the stock WA barrel nut? --> http://airsoftglobal.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=7263

 

 

 

I don't fix my mags quite like that but regardless I highly recommend getting your mags resealed. It'll get rid of most of the leaky mag issues. Mine happily consume propane/green gas now.

 

I too am curious to know your method! Most of the time I just use PTFE tape to fix leaky gas mag seals, but I'm guessing you do something a bit different. Do you dip the seals in automotive break fluid? I've heard of a few people doing that with success, but I'd really like to know your method!

Edited by Jin15
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This is the rail I was able to install successfully using the stock WA barrel nut: King Arms 10" Free Floating Forearm Rail System (http://www.kingarms.com/productpage.asp?prodid=878). Not quite a LaRue... I'd say it's more like a replica of a Samson Mfg. free float rail.

 

For those sharp individuals out there - yes, it is a clone of the rail system that Wupjak put on his rifle.

 

I installed this KA rail along with a G&P (11.5in?) outer barrel. This required some shims/spacers to give the rail enough clearance to clamp onto the stock WA barrel nut properly. I don't think you'd have to go through the trouble of shimming it if you use a G&P barrel nut. The only other issue I had was that the top rails didn't line up perfectly. The KA rail sat about half a millimeter too high. Of course it's nothing a dremel couldn't fix. ;) As a side note, this combination is heavy enough that it noticeably reduced the felt recoil. Though it is still strong enough that the recoil will throw your shots off target if your technique is poor.

 

My personal opinion is that if you want to install a real rail system (big kudos to you for supporting our favorite manufacturers) I'd wait for a metal receiver. Then you can easily rethread it and put on any rail system you like. As for me I'll stick with the old school round handguards.

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How about recoil action co2 vs power gas? what is more recoil?

 

 

Since the steel bolt designed for CO2 is heavier, I suspect the CO2 GBB will have greater recoil. Mind you that this is only speculation based on previous informations.

Edited by Arion
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anyone tried real steel parts fit to wam4?

 

I'm install Falcon Grip (RS). Perfect...

 

Has anyone with leaky mags tried to disassemble the mag and tried to fix it like this?

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airs...il?reviewID=190

 

I'm used string and silicon (but it's start work for me only on 3rd or 4th time). Maybe Plumber's Tape is better...

Edited by rusTORK
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Hello,

Long time lurker here. After ploughing through the last 45 pages I thought I d add my 2c.

 

I bought a WA M4 CQB last week and have enough time to play around so here’s what I think it so far.

 

So much has been covered already Ill try not to repeat.

 

When I first got it I only had propane handy. I left the gun for a day waiting for HFC but could not resist and filled the mag up, an immediate hissing sound from top valve. That was a worrying start. I put the mag in and fired off all its contents anyway.

This leak did not affect immediate performance.

 

Say whatever you like about this gun but you will not forget the first time you fire it.

For me this is the best shooting experience outside of RS I have ever had, BY FAR.

 

It is simply not comparable to an AEG. It’s also way, way more lively and satisfying to shoot than any other GBB I have had.

I have a Marushin M2 which is a cool gun but simply does not compare when it comes to firing the thing.

 

This alone makes it worth the hassle for me and nullifies a lot of the cons.

If you have bought one of these already then we have taken the plunge into the unknown(ish) but with some attention this gun is great.

I bought this with my eyes open and that’s the attitude you need to have with it.

 

I have fired maybe 500 rounds with HFC and Propane with not one problem.

Firing it on HFC is great fun but propane is insane when you are used to AEG’s.

 

After reading thru the thread I am fully expecting to be replacing the problem internals with aftermarket parts, esp as I am running propane sometimes. It’s just a matter of when. No problem with gun so far tho.

 

This is OK with me and the parts are small and the price is relatively low.

 

The current externals are fine for me. An M4 front with a tight barrel sounds intriguing but I am happy to fire away for a few months until the market fills up with more bits and the MAGS GET CHEAPER!!!!

 

THE MAGAZINE…

 

I’m sure if this magazine was $70 and did not leak the praise for this gun would be way higher and the flak way less.

 

From the box mine leaked with HFC and Propane, badly. The top valve was the worst but all the valves were less than airtight.

 

You could still fire the gun but obviously you need to shoot soon after filling mag.

 

I stripped the mag , cleaned it. Took all the seals off, used PTFE tape in the grooves.

Put the seals back on and rubbed some Abbey Silicone lube over the seals. I also did this around the thread on the barrel of the top valve.

Put magazine back together, filled with HFC and it’s perfect. I fired of full mag no probs.

 

I filled with HFC went out for 2 hours and came back, emptied full mag again, and then some, with no probs.

 

Leaks 100% eliminated it seams.

 

NEXT

 

I filled mag with propane and just before the mag was full I could hear very quite hiss from bottom of mag and top valve. Still not quite sealed with full load of propane.

 

It only starts to hiss as the mag approaches nearly full.

 

So Problem mags in my exp=

 

Easy to fix and seem to work perfectly after decent seal/lube when using HFC/Duster.

 

When using propane I think the sealing you need to do within the mag has to be very good, and I’m not that good at it yet.

 

Has anyone actually filled mags with propane and got no leaks at all yet? Do I just need to apply the PTFE tape with more skill?

 

Overall:

 

Warts and all I am 100% happy I bought this.

 

I have had to do some work on the mag to get it functioning as it should from new.

 

I expect to have to do more work in (the not to distant?) future on the 2 or 3 weak internals.

 

This is part of the appeal to be honest, maybe that’s just me liking rto mess with stuff.

 

This gun will evolve over time but it it’s a great base for future schemes...

 

Once I suss out the kinks Ill skirmish it in spring/summer outdoors and CQB indoor in winter. Should be intresting.

 

I been waiting for years and someone finally made a GBB Carbine. Hats of to WA but sort out the fekkin QC guys, come on!!

Edited by Jelly 292
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YES! YES! YESSSS!!! :D :D :D

 

I just emailed G&P two days ago saying they should make a steel bolt stop for the WA M4 and all of a sudden here it is!

 

I'll be ordering 2 as soon as the HK retailers get em in stock ^_^

 

 

While the Zombie Killer body isn't exactly my top choice for a body (would rather have a standard Colt or KAC one) it is good to see G&P coming through on the promised MBKs. I wonder what the price will be like? I'm guessing $150 to $190 from the HK retailers, since that's about what they price their PTW bodies at.

Edited by Jin15
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Hey guys,

 

I'm looking for some direction here. I just bought a WA m4 2nd hand and I am loving it, when it shoots. There has been a minor ( I hope ) problem. THe previous owner had installed a RA Tech hop up and since then the gun ah been mis feeding. Sometimes bb's would just roll out the barrel and shoot about 10-15 feet, other times it won't shoot at all, and when it does it curves and swerves all over the place. Since I don't have any of the original manuals or anything, does anyone have any insight on where I should start to investigate and fix the problem?

 

I was thinking maybe purchasing the new PGC hopup.

 

Thanks

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While I'm not exactly the biggest expert on the WA M4 it sounds like the previous owner over tightened the screws that hold the RA Tech hopup unit together. You're not supposed to tighten them down all the way, but instead make sure that there is a tiny little gap between the two halves of the hopup to keep the opening that the BBs feed into wide enough that they won't jam.

 

So I'd say try loosening the screws that hold the hopup unit together a tiny bit and see if that helps ^_^

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Hey has anyone heard of any valve lock for this gun? I still feel this gun is like... OVER fps or UNDER...

Tightbore on m4a1 length brings it into like 340fps (134a) based on prev pages.

and Tightbore on the original super shortened length is about 410...

 

Think someone should make a selectable fps by valve control...

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