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Western Arms M4 CQB-R


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Jin15 - welcome to the club! :D

 

 

edit: Inokatsu's metal receiver pics look absolutely breathtaking. :wub: They need to stop teasing us and just release them already. G&P is releasing theirs now so I'm anxious to compare the two since they both have reputations for delivering fairly high quality products (with prices to match).

Edited by GBB Nut
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Thanks GBB Nut! I've been a long time gas gun tuner in search of the best blowback so I'm hoping the WA M4 is going to deliver that gas blowback rifle experience I've always longed for. The closest thing I've ever had to a skirmishable GBB rifle was a KWC Mini UZI that I converted to green gas with mag valves, a SD Hi-Capa Piston Head, and a custom machined bolt guide (since the stock one was pretty weak). Shot around 350 fps, had little to no cooldown, and the recoil was excellent... I still regret ever selling that beast.

 

But the Mini UZI still wasn't quite what I was looking for so hopefully this M4 will deliver the full size GBB rifle experience with the heavy recoil I've been waiting for from an airsoft gun. ^_^

 

 

And oh yeah, I remember Poison mentioning that he never was able to fit the lower rail on his G&P front set quite properly, and since his gun is becoming my gun that problem now becomes my problem. LOL

So I'm wondering, anyone else had this problem with the lower rail not fitting on correctly on the G&P front sets? If so, where and how much did you have to file down to make it fit properly?

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And oh yeah, I remember Poison mentioning that he never was able to fit the lower rail on his G&P front set quite properly, and since his gun is becoming my gun that problem now becomes my problem. LOL

So I'm wondering, anyone else had this problem with the lower rail not fitting on correctly on the G&P front sets? If so, where and how much did you have to file down to make it fit properly?

 

I have not been able yet to put on the G&P front grip on the CQB kit I got.. I put in the pin on the front sight and then it is so tight I am not sure if I could put it on.

Might need to put on the grip first and then put on the pins.. not sure. I am awaiting my WA that should be here monday

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G&P is releasing theirs now so I'm anxious to compare the two since they both have reputations for delivering fairly high quality products (with prices to match).

 

In Japan, G&P is notorious for low price and poor quality. At my local hobby store, people ask for installation of G&P metal kits since they are cheap. I lost count of how many I helped assembled, but they were ALL bad and needs modifications (some more than others). Occasionally one or two will fit with just a few modifications, but there's just too much variation and inconsistencies. The early metal bodies fit together so poorly that there was nothing that could be done...uppers were literally impossible to fit to lowers. In my experience, the only G&P kit that fit correctly was thier CNC'd SR25...possibly the best SR25 kit out there.

 

It's comparable to the early CA metal kits that were released. Maybe my definition of quality is not correct, who knows.

 

So I'm wondering, anyone else had this problem with the lower rail not fitting on correctly on the G&P front sets? If so, where and how much did you have to file down to make it fit properly?

 

Most all G&P railed front sets that I have seen have this problem and there is nothing I can think of to correct it. You have to remove the front sight post and end cap to remove the lower rail. Again, another instance where G&P is having issues with quality. Also, I'm not a fan of the material that G&P uses...this might just be personal taste and my poor eye sight, but for some odd reason all G&P metal seems to have a blueish tint (something I do not detect on other Chinese/Taiwanese products like Guarder, Hurricane, KA, etc...).

 

I do understand that almost all metal kits are hit and miss and no one is perfect. Even my Pro-Win metal kit (which I feel has exceptional quality) for my Sig needed work to ultimately fit. It didn't bother me all that much as they were faults identified by Pro-Win and it included good instructions on how to correct them. This is not the case for G&P kits and I usually go beyond what I feel is the acceptable amount of work that needs to be done. I also understand that while I feel Pro-Win Sig kits are great, others might feel that they are poor.

 

I would rather keep my plastic receiver and front-end than pay for the G&P kit.

Edited by BaBaBooey
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Maybe my definition of quality is not correct, who knows.

 

No your definition is not wrong. It's just that we do not have as many choices here. Because of the prices we rarely see the super high quality CNC stuff. Especially all those accessories for GBB pistols that are so much easier to find in Japan. So we must be happy with what we can get. :(

Edited by GBB Nut
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I had a go on the WA M4 the other day.

 

I must say the recoil is much better than I expected, truly a nice experience to shoot it. The gun doesn't feel right without a mag in, way too light. I noticed I could hear a slight twang on the recoil spring as it fired but it was of no big concern.

 

The owner told me he only loads 20 rounds per mag as any more (in typical Isle of Man weather) causes problems. Sadly before we could shoot it much more it broke - some problem with the hammer not locking back (has since been fixed).

 

Reading through (a good portion) of this thread, the gun has way too many problems. If they'd made CO2 mags for it I'd be half way sold on it. For me, the gun needs to be capable of rattling off a full mag in one stupidly long burst, not that I'd be doing that in the field; I just don't want to have to treat the trigger with kid-gloves.

 

I hear WE are bringing out a CO2 powered AK, that could fit the bill but otherwise, if I want the GBB recoil I'm going to stick with the tried and tested Sun Project (which although problematic isn't a huge PITA & money sink to sort out).

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Ive put 4000 bbs thru mine in the last week. 1 Jam because a bb exploded. Striped/Cleaned/Lubed and all OK.

 

No failures of any kind.

 

Im in Ireland and can shoot off the full mag no probs. Not in one burst without hitting cool down twoards last few rounds tho.

I cannot see any undue wear on these 'problem' internal components.

 

I only bought mine this month. Maybe WA sorted out the weak points or maybe Im lucky....

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Ive put 4000 bbs thru mine in the last week. 1 Jam because a bb exploded. Striped/Cleaned/Lubed and all OK.

 

No failures of any kind.

 

Im in Ireland and can shoot off the full mag no probs. Not in one burst without hitting cool down twoards last few rounds tho.

I cannot see any undue wear on these 'problem' internal components.

 

I only bought mine this month. Maybe WA sorted out the weak points or maybe Im lucky....

 

Jelly, is your bolt stop all black or does it have gray/silver color parts?

 

The only internal change they made that I'm aware of is the bolt stop. If anyone wants to try these new bolt stops, IM me. I can't guarantee they are stronger as I'm only allowed to use weak gas.

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Ive put 4000 bbs thru mine in the last week. 1 Jam because a bb exploded. Striped/Cleaned/Lubed and all OK.

 

No failures of any kind.

 

Im in Ireland and can shoot off the full mag no probs. Not in one burst without hitting cool down twoards last few rounds tho.

I cannot see any undue wear on these 'problem' internal components.

 

I only bought mine this month. Maybe WA sorted out the weak points or maybe Im lucky....

 

 

Did you buy the CQB or the M4 length?

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When I imagine Ireland, its colder and wetter. Might be the reason because the gas isn't full pressure.

 

Typically less than 20C temp wise, and rain is a common occurence both in Ireland and Ol' Blighty. Green Gas is usually recommended as a winter gas here, with 134a being recommended for summer (most people ignore this and run green gas, as our winters are much the same as our summers; dark, wet and cold)

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Typically less than 20C temp wise, and rain is a common occurence both in Ireland and Ol' Blighty. Green Gas is usually recommended as a winter gas here, with 134a being recommended for summer (most people ignore this and run green gas, as our winters are much the same as our summers; dark, wet and cold)

 

 

Ya, thats the reason then. Not shooting at such a high pressure, so its not gonna break like every where else :/

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just to let those who questioned know...AEG barrel nuts WILL fit the WAM4. Threads are the same...it's just that the threads on the wam4 aren't exactly "clean cut" so it requires a little bit of sanding and scraping. i'm one of those that like tinkering too ;)

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CO2 is gonna put us over our limit of 400FPS here. I'm fine with Green Gas, which shoots around 375 stock. Only thing I want to improve is gas consumption.

 

Q: I was following this thread much much earlier when WA's M4 was first released. As stock it didn't handle green gas or propane too well as parts cracked quite easily (primarily the hop-up collar). Now with all the after market parts (and hundreds of dollars changed into the WA M4 ;-)), does it handle green gas/propane more comfortably? Admittedly I've not bought one as such my question...

 

Cheers!

 

P.S. as for CO2, my understanding that even though CO2 is more powerful, it's primarily (only?) on the 1st burst 'cos unlike propane/green gas, or HFC, but WA M4 mags can't store CO2 in a liquid state and therefore is not able to maintain a consistent pressure as well as the other gasses?

Edited by AnakChan
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Okay, so I am considering asking for one of these for Christmas because it will be a lot more fun to externally modify because I won't have to worry about battery space.

 

I'm just curious...What am I getting into here?

 

 

Your getting into a rifle that will REQUIRE 60-160(depends on bolt carrier) extra bucks to work 100% reliably. Then add in about 200+ for additional extras like barrels, stocks, grips, etc for pimp upgrades. Then always remember 100+ per additional mag.

 

This rifle ain't for people who can't afford a min investment of 900+ USD if they actually want to play with it.

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just to let those who questioned know...AEG barrel nuts WILL fit the WAM4. Threads are the same...it's just that the threads on the wam4 aren't exactly "clean cut" so it requires a little bit of sanding and scraping. i'm one of those that like tinkering too ;)

 

Ah perfect! That's what I get for rushing. Didn't want to force anything because I was afraid of damaging my WA M4. Thanks for the correct info fellow tinkerer!

PS - My cousin is at UH Manoa.

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I agree with Poison...this "collectors piece" is almost on par with the amount of money people spend on a ptw. The ptw is more made to be a skirmish gun, while the wam4 is more like a rs that requires care and attention to all moving parts. Like Poison said, this gun needs extra money put into it to be "skirmishly reliable". If you can't afford a PTW (a bone stock one), then i highly suggest either saving up for it, or buying it to have and not to skirmish with. You can buy a brand new PTW and reliably play with it in the field. A WAM4 you can do the same, but don't be surprised if something breaks. Remember...expensive things...have expensive replacement parts (and sometimes are hard to find).

 

BTW poison...mags are all leak free and happy :) (though i only use 134 at the moment)

 

GBB Nut - no problem...i had to squeeze my *albatross* while i was scraping away on my $600 "toy". technically they don't fit, but you CAN make them fit :)

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