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Western Arms M4 CQB-R


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That's more expensive then RS.... MUR upper is $250 lower is $125-$250. When my airsoft becomes more expensive then RS. That's when you know it's out of control.

 

Enten e-mailed back, looks like the Prime bolt is Out of stock.. they're waiting for restock.

Edited by neubine
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That's more expensive then RS.... MUR upper is $250 lower is $125-$250. When my airsoft becomes more expensive then RS. That's when you know it's out of control.

 

Enten e-mailed back, looks like the Prime bolt is Out of stock.. they're waiting for restock.

 

 

But but its limited production...and you should feel privileged to spend that much money on airsoft upgrades....................

 

Ya...I came to that realization when I was building my RS AR15....and now you'll notice I no longer own my WA M4. I don't care if they made it from gold, there's no way in hell a CNC'd body is worth that much.

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mmm it's available on WGC too put down as being manufactured by Pro-Win.

IIRC PGC manufactures the Pro-Win brand/line of products. Just like LayLax is Prometheus, etc, etc...

 

 

 

Anyone using .28g bb's in there gun with green gas/propane? If so how do you like it? I am contemplating using .25 bb's or buying some .28 for it. Let me know, thanks!

I have used both .25g and .28g BBs and I like them both. The .25g with an 324mm and green gas seemed a little light. I haven't tested the .28g enough to say if it's too heavy. They both work. Just be careful about which brands you use. Inconsistencies in the OD can cause malfunctions which can cause damage to the plastic bolt face / nozzle.

 

 

 

Short question: Will WA M4A1 fit AEG magazines?

Just tossed in a couple AEG mags. Unfortunately I don't have any King Arm mags to test. However the plastic MAG midcap fit without any problems. The G&P metal midcap on the other hand was a bit too tight.

 

 

 

I don't care if they made it from gold, there's no way in hell a CNC'd body is worth that much.

Amen to that! I love my WA M4 but there's no way I'm going to spend that much on my TOY.

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That's more expensive then RS.... MUR upper is $250 lower is $125-$250. When my airsoft becomes more expensive then RS. That's when you know it's out of control.

 

yeah its too expensive. that prime MUR set price = real AR15

sometime out of control BB toy airsoft

 

 

by the way, JP market has crazy HK/TW price like us, they are expansive sale HK/TW product in JP.

 

 

 

p.s : prime MUR is 7075?

Edited by lee1hy
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yeah....its too expensive. that prime MUR set price = real AR15

 

JP market has crazy HK/TW price like us, they are expansive sale HK/TW product in JP.

 

 

and prime MUR is 7075?

 

7075 is a grade of aluminum. Depending on if they heat treated the material it could be a fairly rugged build. Still doesn't justify the cost.

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dunno...maybe lee1hy knows...it knows everything, but you may not understand.

 

rusTORK - the KA mags do fit and they fit rather nicely. It does seem to get wedged to the point where it doesn't go up after a certain point but it's pretty close to the wam4 mag's height. I'm just not 100% sure about the angle though meaning the gun may tilt forward or backward depending on the angle of the mag on that stand.

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IIRC PGC manufactures the Pro-Win brand/line of products. Just like LayLax is Prometheus, etc, etc...

 

 

 

 

I have used both .25g and .28g BBs and I like them both. The .25g with an 324mm and green gas seemed a little light. I haven't tested the .28g enough to say if it's too heavy. They both work. Just be careful about which brands you use. Inconsistencies in the OD can cause malfunctions which can cause damage to the plastic bolt face / nozzle.

 

 

 

 

 

Which would be better, G&G .28 or tsd .28? thanks

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Which would be better, G&G .28 or tsd .28? thanks

 

After some testing I use G&G bio BBs. Easily over 5k rounds through the PDI 6.01mm without a single jam/FTF/etc. (Yeah I just jinxed myself by saying this... lol) :P Of course YMWV. In order for anyone to experience similar reliability with their WA M4 is heavily dependent upon proper installation of an aftermarket hopup chamber and barrel. If you don't know what you're doing - please ask. There are more than a few knowledgeable people posting on this thread who can point you in the right direction.

 

 

 

 

dunno...maybe lee1hy knows...it knows everything, but you may not understand.

 

:D

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Chrissyg - what part cracked? the bolt or the loading nozzle? i'm still waiting for someone to have the loading nozzle back in stock since the one i just bought is a little damaged (still works though)

 

Kullwarrior - your translation is good enough since i don't know a single chinese character. at least i can understand your translation :)

 

I think the reason why they have no magazine with it has something to do with western arms patent or something on their magazine design. Either that or they're holding it back because it's hard to get their hands on "extra" wa m4 mags to sell since they're the ones that weren't making it to begin with. That'll just mean those wam4 mags are going to be that much harder to find if/when those mtw guns start coming out. I dunno though...i'm still a bit skeptical until someone makes a review on it. Who knows...maybe once they release it there'll be OTHER problems that come about due to people trying to use co2. The mtw is still a system that was cloned from another system that was built around 134a. It's just "tweaked" to be a little bit more reinforced but that doesn't make it bullet (or dummy) proof.

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I'm waiting for the first fool i mean... lucky guy to put down the money for this gem. I bet it looks great but there are much cheaper ways to get this setup. RS even...

 

And here i thought the Prime WA bolt was expensive.

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Tried my WA at a local game today.. We played some speedball at a local paintball field. It was around 10Celsius when we started. Used greengas. Worked very good but I did not tried any full auto.. just small burst and semi... When It started to get around 8-7-6 Celsius I noticed I could not empty a whole mag on single anymore.

 

I also have found out that my mags take 56bb`s and not 50. When I tested at home with exactly 50, then I could shoot until the mag was empty. If I pushed in max of 56 bb`s then I was not able to empty.. Not enough gas.

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Sorry for being a posting ######, but I found this link to a guide on how to install the RA-Tech Hop-Up. It's in chinese but it has good pictures and diagrams. Would have helped me so much when I installed my prime.

 

http://www.taf-inc.com/discuz/viewthread.p...;extra=page%3D1

 

Another thread on the same forums which provide pictures on how to "improve" the seals on your WA M4 mag.

 

http://www.taf-inc.com/discuz/viewthread.p...;extra=page%3D1

Edited by neubine
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e0077961_48be38c8bad9c.jpg

 

Pre-Retail Information (August 8, 2008)

 

After [company] unveil at [show] their first 100 complete, made-in-Taiwan M4 SOPMOD 0 carbines, [company 2]'s general manager in Taiwan, after discussion, decided to upgrade the materials used in their products to reward his customers for supporting [company2]. [company 2] will not attempt to cover the additional costs of the material upgrade by directly charging more from its customers! The general manager has decided to replace the original B-grade lead alloy [part 1]/plastic [part 2] with new steel [part 1]/aluminum alloy [part 2].

 

We thank everyone for their support of our company. The release plan for the first batch of 100 is that they will be sold in the period between August 8 and August 10. Preorders will be accepted at [show].

 

[company 2] will accept preorders in either cash or credit card (+8% of the total amount). Our product detail is...

 

Full-metal, propane-ready M4 SOPMOD 0 (Rail Interface System and steel [part 1] included, magazine not included)

 

The company schedules to transfer the products to [company 2] for simultaneous distribution.

 

INOKATSU

 

I'm fluent in Chinese and I performed the translation myself. However, as you can see, I can't translate some of the proper nouns. I can only supply a translation of their nature but not of their exact meanings. I always put these in brackets. If anyone else have a clue, please fill in the missing pieces. My grammar is good, though.

 

If anyone want to have Chinese text translated, PM me and I'll see what I can do.

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Well looks like my bolt stop doesn't seem sturdy either. Maybe that's how they make it? I'll probably epoxy the grooves in just to have something filling the gap. I'll also look into getting an RA-Tech one as well. At least the part that wears down is one solid piece.

 

boltstop01.jpg

boltstop02.jpg

boltstop03.jpg

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It's gonna really suck if I have to reseal all 10 of my mags... :(

 

Ha have a WAM4 Realsealing party! GBB nut was gonna meet me at AEX to compare parts. He got the new Prime Bolt and i got the prime Hop-Up. I already re-sealed mine. I found that the tube on the top of the mag becomes loose for some reason so I had to open mine to tighten it, and I resealed it. Putting the mag together isn't too hard.

 

Oh yeah if you want to sell me some mags I might be tempted to trade my Co2 greandes for them. ;)

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Well looks like my bolt stop doesn't seem sturdy either. Maybe that's how they make it?

boltstop03.jpg

 

From looking at that picture, the G&P bolt stop dosn't look as bad as everyone makes it out to be.

 

My reasoning is that if the weld WAS to break, then surely it wouldn't affect the bolt stop?

 

From looking at yours, it looks as though the pin that holds the bolt stop in place goes through BOTH parts of the bolt stop, so even if it did break at the weld-point, then wouldn't the bolt-stop assembly pin and lower receiver keep the two parts of the bolt-stop alligned and in position anyway, preserving its functionality?

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