Jump to content

Western Arms M4 CQB-R


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Burst capability can be achieved with the WA M4. And fairly easily I might add. All that is required is to install a handful of different parts into the fire control mechanism. For obvious reasons I will not post any specific details. Hopefully we will see someone come out with that feature in the near future.

Link to post
Share on other sites

www.airsoftglobal.com

 

They stock the POM loading nozzel.

 

I installed mine today to try and diagnose a firing problem I had. Since I lost that little O ring in the hop up when the plastic hop up died, the BBs were going in too far and it wasn't able to fire.

 

After I installed the nozzle, I installed an oring on the tip of the nozzel itself. Keeps the BB from getting loaded in too far, also, when the bolt slams forward, the O ring keeps from pieces of POM/plastic hitting and slamming into pieces of metal.

 

On a side note....is 490fps with green gas seem alittle high with a 363mm pdi barrel and the G&P trigger group internals?

Link to post
Share on other sites

ibico - as for your bolt and valve lock wearing down, get the pgc one with the roller on the tip. I thought the bolt weardown was from the bolt stop itself but i believe it's actually from that stock valve lock. Because it's hard and not very smooth it's scraping the bottom of the bolt. Because the bolt is getting worn down on the bottom part, the bolt stop has a harder time grabbing onto the bolt. It seems there's a harder metal on the bolt too. That little roundish nub on the bolt is a diff metal from the entire bolt. Maybe simiar metal to the one on the bolt stop too? Not sure since i don't know much about metals. Either way though those pgc valve locks seem to be better. Now i just need the hammer with the roller on top.

Link to post
Share on other sites
ibico - as for your bolt and valve lock wearing down, get the pgc one with the roller on the tip. I thought the bolt weardown was from the bolt stop itself but i believe it's actually from that stock valve lock. Because it's hard and not very smooth it's scraping the bottom of the bolt. Because the bolt is getting worn down on the bottom part, the bolt stop has a harder time grabbing onto the bolt. It seems there's a harder metal on the bolt too. That little roundish nub on the bolt is a diff metal from the entire bolt. Maybe simiar metal to the one on the bolt stop too? Not sure since i don't know much about metals. Either way though those pgc valve locks seem to be better. Now i just need the hammer with the roller on top.

 

pgc got valve lock with roller??

 

I am looking for the hammer with roller.. but not found it for sale anywhere usual place yet.

 

Guess I need a better bolt also. heck.. I`ll probably need to upgrade every part of this gun..

 

Parts:

 

1: Hammer with roller so the bolt don`t get worn and float easier over the hammer

2: Valve lock that is harder.

3: Bolt that is harder so the valve lock would not wear down the bolt.

4: Better nozzle and nozzle spring

5: Harder valve spring inside the magazine

6: 120% hammer spring so it have energy enough to open the valve on green 100%

7: Better hopup house since the original crack (done that one)

Link to post
Share on other sites

the hammer i'm still looking for too.

 

I also figured out a way for the bolt stop to work more efficiently. And apparently pgc did too. I changed a spring around and took out that tiny one that holds the bolt lock in place. I used one of my spare springs from the valve lock and put it behind the bolt stop so that it uses a spring to go back to it's original position. Now after the bolt is locked back, i can pull the cocking handle, let go and the bolt will fly forward. Since PGC did something like that too...i know they're actually thinking about how to IMPROVE this gun and doing something right. G&P is just producing ###### after ######.

Link to post
Share on other sites

so far the price tag is:

 

Ra-tech hopup house : $55

Ra-tech bolt stop : $60

Ra-tech m4 6.03 barrel : $60

Pro-Win Valve Lock 6x: $18 = 108$

 

Guess I need a new POM and bolt.. that would probably set me back like 200$??

 

think I am way over the 1K$ mark soon.. hehe. Not counting the Samson rail I just got..

 

So guys.. buy my Systema MP5.. I need money :D :D

 

 

dscf2092ej5.jpg

dscf2099ku4.jpg

dscf2100kp0.jpg

Edited by IBICO
Link to post
Share on other sites
Guess I need a new POM and bolt.. that would probably set me back like 200$??

 

More like $250ish for the pom and bolt i'd expect. What's wrong with your current nozzle? Another option is to get the pro-win hop up housing ($45), and some aeg barrel that's the length of your 733 outer. Unless of course you want it to be longer.

 

I've spent...hmm...lost count already but I do know it's over 1k total for both of my set ups on just internals alone. Like i said before, to get this gun to be reliable in a skirmish you need to have some sort of source of income (allowances from mommy and daddy won't cut it unless you get a lot). If you want a skirmishable WA and can't afford something like a PTW, you really shouldn't buy one of these. Extra mags alone will hurt your wallet.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah.. costly.. My M4 rounded about 3500$ when converting it to Diemaco.. Had 2 Systema mp5 but got one of them sold now.. Need to get the other sold before completing my WA.. I got income.. but damn.. :D

 

 

My girlfriend is also bitching about that I got 3 guns now.. Guess I need to trim it down to two.

Link to post
Share on other sites
And the hammer?? where to find it.

 

PRIME parts are appearing at several local hobby stores so I'm sure it will be available in North America any day now. I saw the PRIME bolt and hammer set for about $300 US. I suspect it will be much cheaper in the US so I would suggest NOT purchasing from Japan.

 

I also got the PGC valve locks, but yet to install them (the stock ones seems to be doing fine for now)...I purchased 7 for about $130US. Everything in Japan is much more expensive.

 

The Hobby Fix metal receiver also just came out, but I haven't seen one in person yet. I suspect the quality will be identical to their AEG receivers.

Link to post
Share on other sites
My girlfriend is also bitching about that I got 3 guns now.. Guess I need to trim it down to two.

 

You thinking all wrong man! You just need to find another girl :P

 

 

 

That video if the MUR is wicked. I may just take the funds from the Inokatsu I was going to buy, and just buy the MUR instead :D

 

*Joking*

Edited by junior
Link to post
Share on other sites

I do still consider the MUR in semi configuration since it is perfect for the Norwegian rule about semi only on 450fps.

 

Could anyone try to e-mail redwolf or Prime to get a better answer.. Guess my english to redwolf did not get trough.

 

Tried to ask if the engravings had safe-semi on one side.. and safe-semi-auto on the other.. Or if it was some wrong type of picture.

 

Maybe they used the auto picture for both.

 

Hello Kenneth:

Thank you for your email. Yes, you are right. We do have semi auto version

specially made for Germany and New Zealand client. Thank you

 

Thank you for choosing Redwolf Airsoft

________________________________________________

Fancourt Lui

Customer Service

RedWolf Airsoft Specialist Ltd

Link to post
Share on other sites

From airsoftnews.eu

 

PGC: WA M4 HopUp worries

If you purchased PGC's WA M4 HopUp kit, take note. There appears to be a problem with this product, more details on Perversity Gun Corporation's webpage: http://www.pgc.com.hk/index1.html

 

Notice on modification of Hop-Up :

 

1.Please DO NOT install the pin which included in the package.

2.Drill the outer barrel to 8.5mm or above.

3.If the position of the Hop-Up Rubber is not correct, there would be a possibility of problem in loading of bullet.

 

pgc_wa4_hopup_cancel_1209.jpg

Edited by IBICO
Link to post
Share on other sites
Notice on modification of Hop-Up :

 

1.Please DO NOT install the pin which included in the package.

2.Drill the outer barrel to 8.5mm or above.

3.If the position of the Hop-Up Rubber is not correct, there would be a possibility of problem in loading of bullet.

Oh yeah...i forgot to mention about those things! haha

 

okay so:

1. i don't know why vendors didn't just take out that pin, but i didn't install mine cuz i didn't need it

2. the outer barrel of the stock wa is 3 pieces. You'd need to drill the piece that the barrel nut goes onto because an AEG barrel won't fit. but like i said before if you have the g&p outer barrel it'll fit through. This is only needed if you're planning on using the stock outer barrel.

3. if the hop-up rubber isn't straight out then you put it on wrong. If you can't figure out that it's on wrong because it's crooked...then i'm not sure if you should be doing this ;) That hop-up rubber lip IS the loading area for the bb. The nozzle actually goes into that part.

 

Also on a side personal note...my gf is still a gf because i'm buying airsoft instead of a ring :) That's okay though, we're pretty much a married couple just not on paper so she's satisfied and i'm free to buy things i don't need but REALLY REALLY want ;)

Edited by shinhk
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.