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Western Arms M4 CQB-R


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My thoughts on inokatsu is that they made it TOO realistic and maybe TOO close to RS specs. If you see some of their pictures there's a gas tube entrance and the bolt has a hole for the gas to push it back. Who's to stop some dumb@$$ to try to modify it to shoot live rounds?

First of all, the measurements are way off. They're just the same as WA (afaik) and they're not compatible with RS. Plus the receiver material is aluminum (even if forged) and NOT made to withstand the pressures in real firearm. The outer barrel is not fit for real rounds. Also you'd need a working firing pin and a more powerful hammer I suppose. If some a**hole manages to fire it with a real round, then too bad for him... It's more likely to explode on his face.

 

Besides, buying a $1000 dollar Inokatsu to do something that stupid sounds just ridiculous, when you can get real AK's a lot cheaper (legal or illegal).

Edited by Lupus78
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First of all, the measurements are way off. They're just the same as WA (afaik) and they're not compatible with RS. Plus the receiver material is aluminum (even if forged) and NOT made to withstand the pressures in real firearm. The outer barrel is not fit for real rounds. Also you'd need a working firing pin and a more powerful hammer I suppose. If some a**hole manages to fire it with a real round, then too bad for him... It's more likely to explode on his face.

 

 

Actually, Real M4/M16's are forged aluminum alloy bodies IIRC...

 

Besides, buying a $1000 dollar Inokatsu to do something that stupid sounds just ridiculous, when you can get real AK's a lot cheaper (legal or illegal).

 

Most of my high end AEG's end up costing around that all said and done, It's the $100 magazines that are hard to swallow.

Edited by liquidflorian
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Nice to know. I'm actually not that familiar with AR-series rifles. That makes it even more interesting, this Inokatsu. If the performance is around WA's performance (but with more durable parts for green gas), then I'm all sold. It sounds like as realistic as possible with a toy gun. Nice!

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It's basically the same thing. The hop-up set is the bulls-eye one instead, but it's still made out of plastic. Bolt stop is functional, but the bolt is dark like the RIS versions. The reason why it's cheaper is it doesn't have an RIS and a full carry handle (which is by far the best one i've ever had). Magazines i believe are black in color instead of the grayish ones they made before. And like you've stated...there's no trademarks of any kine.

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It's basically the same thing. The hop-up set is the bulls-eye one instead, but it's still made out of plastic. Bolt stop is functional, but the bolt is dark like the RIS versions. The reason why it's cheaper is it doesn't have an RIS and a full carry handle (which is by far the best one i've ever had). Magazines i believe are black in color instead of the grayish ones they made before. And like you've stated...there's no trademarks of any kine.

 

So, in other words, not worth the minor price decrease. And it is minor, only $100. by the time it is in the us (whether shipped or retail), it will be $500 anyways. Might as well pop the extra $100.

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That depends. A lot of people switch out most of the body parts anyways. The bulls-eye hop-up system is designed a little better than the original stock one. The magazine is black instead of gray, and there might be some other improvements elsewhere. They don't really show the bolt stop or list any other differences. For those people who want just the base system and is gonna be swapping parts and getting a g&p metal body and RS rail system anyways, then $400ish for the guts is a pretty darn good deal. We won't know the true shipping price of the new ones until they hit retailers so we'll just have to wait and see.

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That depends. A lot of people switch out most of the body parts anyways. The bulls-eye hop-up system is designed a little better than the original stock one. The magazine is black instead of gray, and there might be some other improvements elsewhere. They don't really show the bolt stop or list any other differences. For those people who want just the base system and is gonna be swapping parts and getting a g&p metal body and RS rail system anyways, then $400ish for the guts is a pretty darn good deal. We won't know the true shipping price of the new ones until they hit retailers so we'll just have to wait and see.

 

Does anyone even know when they will be officially released?

 

I am probably going to stick with the stock body and get a RA-Tech hop up and bolt stop. I was just going to buy some of the "S-Type" magazines, even though they don't have a bolt stop. I can worry about super-fly bodies later, I want it working with a full set of magazines first.

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Has many people installed a G&P metal body for the WA? How do you like it? Was the installation easy, hard or real pain in the *albartroth*? Does the rifle work as it used to before metal body? Any other comments about it? What other modifications have you made for the rifle? Any G&P front sets, precision barrels, other internals (bolt stop, hop up etc.)?

 

I'm also considering my options, whether it's WA, WE or Inokatsu. Don't know yet...

Edited by Lupus78
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Well apparently wgc just put them up for sale. $426 for the cqb-r and $474 for the m4a1.

 

G&P bolt stops suck (unless they've improved it), their ris kits seem to not fit very well. I dunno...i've been having too many problem with g&p parts recently that i just can't bring myself to buy anything more from them. It's been a waste of time. Oh and from what i've read about the g&p kits, they work fine and all but you have to shim something since there's play between the upper and lower receivers.

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About G&P Metal body:

 

http://lagunshop.militaryblog.jp/e30072.html

 

(Look last photo. Inside stock ring...).

 

For install your need some original WA parts (89-93). So, i think what G&P MBK (Metal Body Kit) it's direct copy of WA Body, just metal.

 

Inokatsu MBK don't use it. But your need another parts: Buffer Retainer, Buffer Retainer Spring, 5-3 Fire Control Selector Spring, 5-4 Fire Control Selector Detent, 7-15 For WA, 7-16 Set Screw.

 

8-\\

Edited by rusTORK
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It depends on what you want to do really. If you're planning on keeping the external parts stock and want an ris, then just get the ris versions. But if you plan on getting a diff RIS, then you're better off getting the delta. If i started another gas blowback m4 project, I'd buy the delta series one and build it up from there. Ra-tech hop-chamber/bolt stop/inner barrel, guarder outer barrel, and whatever other parts (ris/front sight/flash hider). The body i could live w/o trademarks cuz i already have 2 m4a1 trademarked bodies, but if i DID decide to get a metal body i'd try to get my hands on a prime.

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I have most of my build decided on as of now.

 

Daniel Defense Omega 10" or POF P9X (leaning towards the POF)

Magpul MIAD

Magpul CTR

Tango Down Short Vertical Grip

Daniel Defense Low Profile Gas block

Knock-Off Docter Sight

RA-Tech Hop Up

RA-Tech Bolt Stop

RA-Tech hammer

PDI 210mm 6.01 Barrel

 

The only think left for me to really decide on is whether to base it off the WA M4A1 or Delta M4A1. I don't plan on buying a new body anytime soon, so I am trying to decide if it is worth paying the extra for the trades.

 

Also, I know it has been asked to death, but does anyone have real chrono results for the PDI 6.01 210mm barrel? I need it close to 400, if possible, with .25's.

 

Lastly, had anyone used the new Simplified magazines? The ones without the bolt stops? I am trying to decide if it is worth the price difference to have the working bolt stop all the time.

Edited by neros131
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neros131 - You may have some issues using the DD gas block on a stock WA M4. Because the grooves for the pins are not spaced correctly one (or both) of these grooves may be visible after you've mounted the DD gas block. The only option would be to purchase an Inokatsu front set. Apparently they use the proper pin spacing for a real front sight block on their barrels.

 

Personally I'd avoid the s-mag because I like having the option of using my bolt stop. Besides it's one of the main reasons why most of us purchase a WA M4.

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neros131 - You may have some issues using the DD gas block on a stock WA M4. Because the grooves for the pins are not spaced correctly one (or both) of these grooves may be visible after you've mounted the DD gas block. The only option would be to purchase an Inokatsu front set. Apparently they use the proper pin spacing for a real front sight block on their barrels.

 

Personally I'd avoid the s-mag because I like having the option of using my bolt stop. Besides it's one of the main reasons why most of us purchase a WA M4.

 

Worst case scenario is I just pick a longer low-profile gas block to cover the second pin. Not a big deal to me.

 

The S-Mags are so much cheaper, though! But you are right, the bolt stop is half the fun, and giving that up would be lame.

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Gday guys,

 

I have read most of this very long thread and havent come across any mention of a metal A2 or VN type body. IIRC Inokatsu were doing a VN/A1 kit but I cant find it any hwere?

 

Thoughts?

 

Thanks

 

TC

 

Yeah, Inokatsu has (had?) photos of an A1 metal body on their website, but I haven't heard of any plans on releasing that.

I personally would much rather get a fixed loop upper than a railed, but I'm sure most people will prefer a flat top.

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