Western Arms M4 CQB-R

[Lupus78]

That lighter bolt could actually improve performance in colder climate (like here). And it might reduce wear on the internals. Nice.

 

I don't mind if the recoil would be reduced. I will install metal body etc. which will reduce the felt recoil anyway.

Edited May 26, 2008 by Lupus78

[vtb]

RW stocking PDI 6.01 steel inner barrels for WA M4

http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/...menu2=144#24677

 

Price is around 100$ for M4 lenght and 60$ for CQB lenght

Edited May 26, 2008 by vtb

[poison123]

Sweet on those barrels, I'll be picking one up for sure. But DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! on those bolts....that could really solve the 2 major problems of breaking the feed/hop up part and breaking the bolt stop. But ya that should do wonders for saving on gas too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[PlasticMag]

Well, hell. I had about convinced myself not to buy one.... I'll have to wait a bit, but funds permitting this IS on the to-buy list.

[Lupus78]

After Inokatsu kit, PDI barrel, AS lighter bolt and separately bought WA magazines, there's not many parts left from original WA gun you need (only the small internal mechanics which are definitely not worth the 560 bucks you have to pay for them). Maybe it's time for a prebuilt full metal clone...?

 

I might actually wait for a cheap and robust full metal clone. Original WA rifle is really overpriced for a person who wants to make a full metal conversion, since there's pretty much everything you need to change.

[BigAl]

Just like a WA Pistol then! Don't hold your breath on the clone, even if they do one you can bet it won't work anywhere near as well as the WA one. I personally hope it isn't clones as WA should benefit from having the balls to do something so different.

[chillindrdude]

this gun is also on the "to-buy" list. it would solely be a summer weather gun for me tho.

 

i'll "pull the trigger" once reinforced internals come out for it and i'm hoping the mags either 1)come down in price or 2)QC improves.

 

you guys would use propane for this gun right?

 

 

 

[hokeyplyr48]

is there a possibility that the bolt could spark and possibly ignite the propane? it's a little different than your average GBB, is it not?

[Harvahammas]

It's possible. Also whole gun can explode and shrapnels can mutilate you.

 

Yours,

Department of logic

 

 

 

 

It's not possible.

[hokeyplyr48]

thank you for responding so courteously. i mean it's not like you're using a flammable gas or anything.

[Wupjak]

Not something I'd spend much time worrying about, hokeyplyr.

 

Unless you put a bit of flint into the bolt stop. THERE'S your problem.

 

 

[Sale]

The original bolt is die-cast zinc and the Airsoft Surgeon one is aluminum. They won't spark, and propane would have to be quite accurately mixed with air in order to ignite from a single spark anyways.

 

Just don't smoke when you shoot.

 

Edit: Or even if you're not shooting. It's a filthy habit.

 

-Sale

Edited May 27, 2008 by Sale

[zentaurus]

[thinking]

OK. two bits that need to be machined of stronger metal. and AS is starting to make better parts. longer inner barrel, maybe a TB. replace front end. pricey mags, but that goes for my FiveseveN too.

 

h m m m . . . this or the marushin M2

[/thinking]

 

 

tx for the inputs wup, inq, poison, usmc, & the rest of you guys. and just when i was considering getting a gbb rifle.

Edited May 28, 2008 by zentaurus

[JCYC5]

Thank God I'm in Edmonton. Otherwise I'd sink the cash for it tomorrow.

 

-50°C weather does not allow for nice operation of GBB weapons

[niko.90]

-50°C weather does not allow for nice operation of GBB weapons

 

... Or any other airsoft gun.

 

[hokeyplyr48]

aeg's don't have a problem in cold weather. only gbb's because the gas doesn't expand as much due to the low temp. temperature doesn't affect gears that much ;-) (yes the battery a little, but not so much)

Edited May 29, 2008 by hokeyplyr48

[Sale]

aeg's don't have a problem in cold weather. only gbb's because the gas doesn't expand as much due to the low temp. temperature doesn't affect gears that much ;-) (yes the battery a little, but not so much)

Yes, but we're talking about -50°C here. That's -58°F.

 

-Sale

[Trasher]

aeg's don't have a problem in cold weather.

That was a joke, right? Monkey metal and the cheap plastics become brittle, hopup rubbers stiffen up, metal hopup chambers refuse to hop, batteries die like flies, etc...

[poison123]

That was a joke, right? Monkey metal and the cheap plastics become brittle, hopup rubbers stiffen up, metal hopup chambers refuse to hop, batteries die like flies, etc...

 

Anyways....My pdi 363mm barrel came in today. I'll get it fitted later today and let you guys know what the difference is.

[rolling-thunder]

I used to regularly work in -28,the hairs inside my nose would freeze up & ice would form on my eyebrows,can't see it being much good for the various componants that make up an AEG.

[JCYC5]

I can imagine skirmishing with an AEG in -10, but anywhere below that people don't want to go out and run around with toy guns anymore it seems

 

What do you think the cooldown for the WA M4 will be like at about 8 degrees (celcius.)?

[Wupjak]

People are getting their PDI barrels and pm'ing me for help with installing them. Here ya go:

 

To begin with, you will be removing the barrel and hop up through the front of the receiver, not through the rear like you would with an AEG.

 

To get at the innards, you'll need to remove the flash hider, front sight/gas tube, and delta ring/barrel nut. You will need to slide the outer barrel forward just a bit to be able to proceed.

 

Once you have the inner barrel and outer barrel separated from the receiver, the next job is to remove the inner barrel from the outer barrel. There's a small o-ring mounted on the outside of the inner barrel that makes it difficult to pull the inner free. I lucked out and didn't destroy mine when I first took it apart, but reinserting the inner barrel into the outer is impossible with the o-ring installed.

 

DO THIS PART OF THE JOB OVER A TOWEL WITH THE TOP OF THE RECEIVER POINTED AT THE TOWEL.

 

So, back to the disassembly: Once that stuff is all off, GENTLY tug the outer barrel forward with a very slight up and down or side to side motion. A very small spring will fall out onto the towel and the hard part is done.

 

When you're down to the inner and hop up unit out, take a small flat screwdriver or some such tool and pry the retention o-ring forward out of its groove in front of the adjustment dial. Slide the dial forward and the hop up unit will come apart into two halves. Not much to mess up once you're in there.

 

The outer barrel, as I mentioned, is 3 pieces. The middle piece of the outer barrel is threaded negative on one end and positive on the other. Remove the set screw in the center of the middle piece. Grab the middle and forward parts with a pair of pliers or a strap wrench if you have one. I cannot remember now which direction the front section is threaded, but it's not on there very tight. If one direction doesn't work, twist the opposite. Same goes for the breach end of the barrel. When you reassemble, align the keyways on the front and rear sections of the outer barrel and put the threaded bit in the middle. Now, tighten the center part while holding the end parts still. Took me awhile to figure that one out. Heh.

 

Enjoy.

 

 

[poison123]

Results time

 

I added in a Full length OuterBarrel and PDI 6.01mm 368mm inner barrel

 

Before with stock barrel:

 

Duster 260ish FPS

 

GG/Propane 360ish FPS

 

 

After with PDI barrel:

 

Duster 310 - 320fps

 

GG/Propane 460-480fps.

 

 

 

Bad things I've noticed so far, the new Outerbarrel from G&P seems to wobble a little and I only bought the actual outer barrel not the kit(I don't know what I was thinking ) the stock RIS system doesn't seem to fit well at all on the new outer barrel so its half falling off some times.

 

It seems to me that my gas consumption has gotten a little better on full auto with GG/Propane.

 

So the new inner is well worth the money. Did I mention its more accurate than my laylax VSR-10 was

[uscmCorps]

Before with stock barrel:

Duster 260ish FPS

GG/Propane 360ish FPS

 

After with PDI barrel:

Duster 310 - 320fps

GG/Propane 460-480fps.

Holy ###### that's a huge jump in FPS!!! I had no idea it would be so much better just with the addition of the inner barrel! Between that and the new Airsoft Surgeon aluminum bolt, that promises to be a very promising start. Is 368mm the perfect length for the M4 length outer barrel?

 

And did you notice your groupings improve significantly with the addition of the tightbore?

 

 

[poison123]

Holy ###### that's a huge jump in FPS!!! I had no idea it would be so much better just with the addition of the inner barrel! Between that and the new Airsoft Surgeon aluminum bolt, that promises to be a very promising start. Is 368mm the perfect length for the M4 length outer barrel?

 

And did you notice your groupings improve significantly with the addition of the tightbore?

 

 

Ya fits PERFECT in the full length outer....I just need to fix the RIS problem.

 

I'm hitting man size targets with no optics at around 200ft. Didn't test any closer than that so no precise groupings.