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Western Arms M4 CQB-R


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All the latest release metal bodies (except the only one that counts) Are available at WGC now.

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...-MB-WP04_srch_1

 

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...-MB-WP05_srch_1

 

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...-MB-WP06_srch_1

 

Plus the steel bolt stop.

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...ACC-WP51_srch_1

 

$40... not bad..

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you had to wrap it ten times? :blink: wow

 

yeah.. Must been a faulty made mag.

 

Going to use this for testing now. milling it inside + going to restrict the movement on the valve so it don`t open fully so I might get 350fps with green and able to shoot a full mag without getting really low fps on the last 20bb`s

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Hey Nickthebrick...

 

pop open your WaM4 and check to see if the hammer spring is binding with the trigger spring... had the same thing happen to me when I installed some G&P steel parts into my WaM4. If thats not the case make sure there there are no loose particles in the lower receiver mechanism. That would be the only reason why it would do what you described. Otherwise a part just failed.

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There is a small chamber before the valve. So the gas would go from the large chamber to the smaller before going out?

This would mean that if the volume of gas is larger in the large chamber.. The fps would not increase but rather make the pressure last longer before getting a lot lower?

 

Might a smaller chamber in the "valve chamber" make it get lower fps but make the gas last longer also?

Maybe a higher pressure gas with smaller valve chamber + larger main chamber be the solution?

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Just recieved my Zombie Killer. Looks nice out of the box. Only thing I noticed bad so far is theres a little bit of slop with the uper and lower together. It may be different once I install all the parts though. Im hoping to do some work on it tommorrow if I have time.....

 

SCREW THAT do it now, so you can tell us all how good/bad it is. I demand pictures! =) I installed the RS MIAD on mine and it fit was ok except it's not a perfect fit. The WA is just a little bit off spec, but nothing more then cosmetic for the MIAD.

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SCREW THAT do it now, so you can tell us all how good/bad it is. I demand pictures! =) I installed the RS MIAD on mine and it fit was ok except it's not a perfect fit. The WA is just a little bit off spec, but nothing more then cosmetic for the MIAD.

 

I did not get much done today. Im still in the process of taking the parts off of the stock reciever. I need to go back to the store and get some more tools. Im shooting to atleast get the lower done tommorrow. I would work on it more today but back to my job I go :angry: Im debating to call in sick tommorrow to get this thing done :rolleyes:

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I did not get much done today. Im still in the process of taking the parts off of the stock reciever. I need to go back to the store and get some more tools. Im shooting to atleast get the lower done tommorrow. I would work on it more today but back to my job I go :angry: Im debating to call in sick tommorrow to get this thing done :rolleyes:

 

 

How hard has it been so far? Im not too tech savvy and was wondering the difficulty with it as I would like to go metal in the future. Thanks

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How hard has it been so far? Im not too tech savvy and was wondering the difficulty with it as I would like to go metal in the future. Thanks

 

 

If your getting play between the upper and lower, which you probably will. You should look at this: http://www.buffertech.com/stores/1/ACCU_-_...rmanc_P31C4.cfm its what people use to remove most of the play in the RS stuff.

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I did not get much done today. Im still in the process of taking the parts off of the stock reciever. I need to go back to the store and get some more tools. Im shooting to atleast get the lower done tommorrow. I would work on it more today but back to my job I go :angry: Im debating to call in sick tommorrow to get this thing done :rolleyes:

 

Let me know how the removal of the stock buffer tube goes. Mine looks like they put loctite on it and it'll be a *badgeress* to get off. I was thinking I would just get a RS tube but seeing if I can save it.

 

 

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If your getting play between the upper and lower, which you probably will. You should look at this: http://www.buffertech.com/stores/1/ACCU_-_...rmanc_P31C4.cfm its what people use to remove most of the play in the RS stuff.

 

don`t think that could be installed on the WA.. under there it is a massive block of aluminum that also stop the spring buffer when you take the upper appart.

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installed the Ra-tech hopup unit.. It look good. One strange thing is that it does not got that fastening for the inner barrel so it line up. Not sure how much this could effect the alignment when shooting but it was a bit strange.

 

I lost the super tiny spring off course.. :angry2:

 

Found a high flow valve for a pistol and ripped the spring from that one. It fit inside the hopup house and might press to much against the hopup level thingy that adjust the hopup. I`ll check it out when I could get outside and shoot with it.

 

The fps went up a bit after installing it. With Ultrair summer gas I had 350-380 pretty steady all the way.. After I got a bit higher... 370-to almost 400.

 

I also had a tiny o-ring that went off when I disassembled the outer/inner barrel and hopup.. uhm. I am not sure where this should be. But It suddenly went on the tip of the bolt nozzle. I am now almost sure this would make a better seal for the gas then before and might cause the upping of the fps.

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I *just* received my G&P Bolt Stop. I had ordered it prior to seeing RATech's announcement of their's. The G&P Steel bolt stop is CNC like the RATech one is and shape wise appears to be truer to the original WA bolt stop. One major difference I did notice between the RATech and G&P bolt stops, is that while the RATech Bolt stop is machined from a single piece of metal, the G&P bolt stop is machined from two separate pieces of metal that is then welded together. How strong the weld is, time will tell... but given that difference, I'd think the RATech bolt stop may hold up better in the long run.

 

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PMAG on wam4? possible?

 

No.. I have solid rumors from a supplier of other WA upgrades that it would come after market magazines for the WA.. So it might be some other types also :D

 

They also have light weight hammer instead of a heavy one.. bolt stop, grips, hammer lock and more..

 

 

that tiny o-ring goes on the inside of the chamber but on the outside tip of the rubber hop bucking. that's the one that's a bi+ch to get back on sometimes.

 

And now it is on the nozzle.. hehe. Might do more good there actually

Edited by IBICO
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