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King Arms 24” Free Floating Sniper Rifle


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Gah! That sucks.

 

I found that once the hop settled a little, the range was almost impressive for the power it was giving. Guess it will have to live with the standard barrel though :(

 

I found out that the mag release uses a 1.3mm allen key. Who would have one laying around unless they were a modeller. I searched for ages to find one and ended up having to buy a special set of allen keys from a model shop for £15! <_<

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I don't think there's such thing as a flawless airsoft gun - There's always the odd minor niggle on anything, but from what i gather, KA seem to be keeping those niggles to a minimum. Is the non-vented motor baseplate a standard on all KA AR's, or is it just the sniper rifles? I'm quite the trigger happy type, so i don't want to be melting the pistol grip...

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Not sure about the rest but having a vented base plate on this gun is pointless. The pistol grip has a cap on the bottom so any heat is kept inside anyway. I've not found it getting too warm, though I never use it (intensionally) on full-auto. I have done rapid semi and found it's alright, assume most of the warmth i can feel is due to the body heat from gripping it.

 

I did like that last time I was home, I used this in a game where the objective was to stop the opposing team coming across the field divide. I lay in the trench in th ecorner on one side and sniped 2 guys who were checking out the gap. After that I didn't see anyone else, those who got through went to the other end.

Edited by triggerhappy16
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  • 1 month later...

I am currently building an AR with a very similar spec to the KA 24" Bushy rifle:

-590mm IB

-24" OB

-full stock

-flattop

-scope

-20 rnds mags

Basically, its a fairly expensive DMR build ;)

 

I was just wondering how you guys here with the KA rifles feel about the practicality of them, given their rather hefty length. Also, can anyone help me -since I am here- with tips on how to make sure my build will shoot well with the PSG1 length tightbore?

 

A couple of my builds before have used the PSG1 length barrels on standard GBs (not PSG1 GB) but they have always been upgraded/high powered. I want this build not to exceed 350fps for longevity and practicalitys sake. Will a bore up kit be required for my M16 GB?

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I have used it in woodland. It is usable in urban, CQB I think would be a struggle. Although I have used an L1A1 in CQB with no effort.

 

Inner barrel and general performance is Superb, apart from its 240fps with the hop on (280 hop off, so I think its using a Marui class spring with a clever hop to compensate). Range is brill but it does get thrown off a LOT by wind and at longer ranges, you'd be quicker sending a telegram with 'BANG' written on it.

 

I use a 9.6 battery. Speed on full auto is impressive, but not CA CQB excessive.

 

Overall its a damn good gun exept for that awful wiring. Im sure some heavier gauge wire would speed it up, although it does have a much crisper trigger response than any of my other Armalites.

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My main concern for this project gun is/was two fold. Firstly, would a long barrel and (relatively) low power setup (like TM VSR) work in this case. And secondly, if it does, is the resulting rifle going to be in any way practical for all round FIBUA/Woodland skirmishing.

 

Thanks for the info Guzzi, and via PM too :D - you've basically cleared up those problems for me.

 

P.s. Docv400 is doing the custom work on the barrel so I think I am in safe hands in terms of build quality. Even with a 24" barrel this rifle should be totally sturdy, so won't have to be worrying about it breaking on me.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

it's very long gun ------------------ where i can buy it ?

 

Airsoft Armoury have them for £369.99

 

 

Anyone know where I can get a screw that goes under the barrel just behind the gas block (not in the gas block)? I asked AA when I went up there (as it never came with one so the front end keeps coming lose) but they just said I would have to pay to send it off to their technician. They couldn't give me his number as it's residential and I gave my number to give to him and they never did <_<

Edited by triggerhappy16
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  • 1 month later...

I hate this gun for many reasons. The externals are good quality but the paint is junk, leaving BRIGHT shiny metal everywhere. The textured stock looks like its 10 years old after a skirmish or two because it shows scratches badly. The foregrip is held by goddamn FRICTION so putting a bipod or any form of side leverage on it makes the entire front end come loose.

 

Plus mine came in at 280fp, 240 with the hop on so you could telegraph your shots to people and it'd get there quicker. Ive seen people Im firing at simply watch the BBs come in and move side to side as they slowly bimble past.

 

Trying to disassemble the POS is frustrating as it uses an odd sized allen key for the mag button.

 

There is NO fuse in this gun and the wiring is pathetic.

 

I wish I'd never seen this useless thing.

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Now i've owned, played, and sold my KA VIS, i'll agree with the lot of that.

 

It was, frankly, pants.

 

From the back - The VLTOR stock was so wobbly on the buffer tube it was ridiculous - 2mm gap all around. I needed half a roll of electrical tape to firm it up. The wiring method was terrible - Once the nimh was in the stock, adjusting the stock would almost certainly cut or damage the wiring.

 

VLTOR receiver paintwork looked nice at first - Until it started to chip and flake. Scratched easily, chipped easily, and the trademarks, clear though they were, weren't very robust. Receiver wobble wasn't too bad, but was noticeable.

 

Motor was a piece of turd - On both a 7.4 800 lipo and an 8.4 1500 NIMH, trigger response and RoF was a joke. Improved slightly with the addition of a CA motor, but that shouldn't have been necessary - it was.

 

Mag catch felt sloppy. King Arms hicap was totally pants, and refused to feed despite my efforts.

 

Considering it was supposedly a monolithic platform, the lower half of the VIS assembly wobbled intolerably. Also scratched fairly easily. Included vertical grip wobbled on the rail, and made the rail wobble even more.

 

The hop was good, and with 310fps behind it out of the box it didn't perform badly. However, i'm used to G&P M4's - Beautifully finished, beat a tree down solid, amazing out the box performance and just better in every possible way. I know Guzzi would never agree with that, but i've now learned i'll only ever be happy with a G&P AR - Nothing comes close in my opinion.

 

Considering i paid £400 for the VIS when i could have had a G&P Sentry for £300, i'm still kicking myself.

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*sucking in or air through teeth* G&P... :P

 

I think my problem with G&P is that they are largely incompatible with other makes. If I had started with G&P and stuck with them, instead of starting with CA and trying to get G&P stuff to work on it, I'd have a different opinion. As it is, G&P is a nuisance to someone who already has 4-5 M-series from other manufacturers.

 

---

Anyway... I want to sell this 24" but I need to upgrade it first. I'm having to buy an entire set of allen keys just to get a 1.2mm, because the regular size allen keys will not remove the mag release button.

 

Looking at the good sides, my KA at least does have a crisp trigger response and the range is phenomenal for an wheel-type hop. But I mean.. £300+ for a friction-fit foregrip is unforgiveable.

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*sucking in or air through teeth* G&P... tongue.gif

 

I think my problem with G&P is that they are largely incompatible with other makes. If I had started with G&P and stuck with them, instead of starting with CA and trying to get G&P stuff to work on it, I'd have a different opinion. As it is, G&P is a nuisance to someone who already has 4-5 M-series from other manufacturers.

 

 

I'd definitely agree with that - I've got nothing but G&P stuff, and same with everything i buy - I recently built myself an M7A1 from entirely G&P parts, and putting it together was almost as fun as using it is, down to all the parts being made to fit each other. If i'd used another brand for the rail or receiver, i'd be having a nightmare. The receiver threading i believe is mil-spec rather than TM, so obviously that causes hassle when changing the front ends for different brands, and same with a few other bits and bobs. They've got their nuisances, such as a love of threadlock on the screws and a positive thread, but i reckon it's a case of find a brand you like and stick to it exclusively - Works for me, anyway.

 

Wait until that G&P Car-15 comes out - Seeing as you won't be switching out parts (blasphemy if you do), give it a go and chuck an H nub in it - I reckon you'll be really pleasantly surprised. And hey - It's a frikkin' Car-15!

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My take on King Arms.....

 

Have a Sig 556 Shorty, one of the best CQB primaries I've ever had, rock solid....apart from stock and buffer tube. I do agree with hwagan here, too much play when hanging loose but I usually shoulder mine when firing so it doesn't bother me that much.

 

Also have a SR16 E3 by KA, this is another piece of quality kit, much abused but still rock solid......apart from stock and buffer tube, same as above.

Don't know whether they are tree breakers thoughlaugh.gif

I am looking at the S&W M&P15 MOE in tan, haven't read a review yet but I so like the looks wub.gif

 

All in all, one mans paradise seems to be another mans poison.

 

 

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I wouldn't say King Arms make bad AEG's, just not up to my insanely high standards for externals... Seriously, the tiniest wobble or rattle anywhere on a gun will annoy the hell out of me. Bear in mind as well, KA's SIG is a different beast entirely, and the SR's are very new to the range, so there's every chance they've ironed out flaws in previous models.

 

I still want a 556 :P

 

 

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