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right I can see whats going on now I was forgetting that the AK74 handguard's front ring only has a cutaway for the lever on the right hand side (which means you cant fit it from the left on those)

 

If you hold it the way you have in that picture then for it to be able to 'fit from the righthand side of the barrel AND point backwards towards the pistol grip while locked' then the indent would need to be cut on the top while the non indented area would be at the bottom

 

As it stands that ones only going to 'lock while pointing backwards towards the pistol grip' on an AKSU (where it can be fitted in from the left hand side of the barrel)

 

I've checked thru my photos and the only VFC I've got photos of with that reversed design is my prerelease AKSU, so best bet would be to source a VFC or real steel one (assuming the diameter of the dboys one matches those)

 

I was thinking of getting the real steel one as well.

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aye wouldnt be bad way of spending 250 dollars

 

if the bolt carrier wasnt made out of cream cheese, was cast properly and wasnt the best part of 2/3s the price of a cheap GBB pistol each time it needed replaced

 

if the bolt wasnt made out of plastic and easily shattered

 

if the pistol grip mount wasnt prone to moving and locking up the trigger, unless tightened down with way more torque than should really be applied to pot metal

 

if the little brass ferule for the bolt carrier guide rod recoil spring didnt detach itself from the bolt and start working its way along the spring

 

if the mag valve springs werent so inconsistent

 

if the mag gas tubes actually came out of the mag like they were supposed to, so the mag could be stripped down, rather than clamp like limpets onto the valve block

 

if somone bothered their *albartroth* to confirm all the parts were there and undamaged before shipping out a kit

 

if someone bothered their *albartroth* to confirm that the missing part they were sending, to complete the parts that should have been sent in the first place, was indeed complete itself..

Edited by snorkelman
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Hey there, just wondering if anyone can help me with my problem... However, there may not even be a problem at all. This is my first experience with a metal undefolder... (From this thread)

Well, I got my gun and it is quite nice. However, the stock has around a quarter inch of play to either side when folded in. Is this normal?

 

EDIT: The problem is that the whole folding mech, when screwed together, has a wider gap then the thickness of the body, causing a bit of left to right play. Also, shortening the screws won't help, it's how the mech fits together. Should I make a shim?

Edited by beta08
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Lol, stick with a daytonna gun.....

 

ignoring the usual hassles of gas in mag systems it does have potential - ie on plus side the logic of the firecontrol parts are a lot closer to real steel than the escort based versions (and the active bolt stroke is a fair bit longer too) its just let down by poor execution and materials

 

needs: couple of parts redesigned, better materials for at least the bolt and bolt carrier.

 

For folks who arent a fan of the smell of propane then the CO2 caplet based mag might be a better idea too as the standard mag doesnt seem to get all that many fills from an unused 600ml sized can of ultra I had lying around (havent kept track precisely but I get distinct impression that (if) the CO2 caplet based mag gets a full magworth of BBs out per caplet, that'd prove a lot cheaper in terms of running cost than gassing it up with 134a or green)

 

It might benefit from the bolt carrier being shipped with its rail tabs oversized so it can be filed down to a suitable fit (would prevent it being a drop in kit but would allow for better final tolerances and be an easy part for the end user to work over) I'm not sure how consistent the dboys receivers are in that respect and that would be simplest way around any sloppy receiver tolerances.

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Hey there, just wondering if anyone can help me with my problem... However, there may not even be a problem at all. This is my first experience with a metal undefolder... (From this thread)

 

theres a little bit of side to side play on mine that can be taken out by either:

 

shortening the length of the threads on the countersunk securing screws that hold the left hand receiver plate in place inside the receiver so that the heads dont bottom out before they've pulled the plate tight

 

or

 

putting a small shim in between that plate and the inside wall of the reciever before refitting the screws (stick a couple of gearbox shims or a washer onto the inside of the receiver with some glue or heavy duty grease before

marrying the plate upto it

 

I'd expect that to take up around half of the play - after that you'll still have a little play left from the mechanisms lock being a springloaded wedge.

 

Overall the play between the plate and the receiver is under a mm - it just translates to a few mill by time you reach the butt area of the stock

 

TBH for the amount of play involved I just couldnt be arsed taking it apart again after I stripped and rebuilt mine for the review :)

 

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theres a little bit of side to side play on mine that can be taken out by either:

 

shortening the length of the threads on the countersunk securing screws that hold the left hand receiver plate in place inside the receiver so that the heads dont bottom out before they've pulled the plate tight

 

or

 

putting a small shim in between that plate and the inside wall of the reciever before refitting the screws (stick a couple of gearbox shims or a washer onto the inside of the receiver with some glue or heavy duty grease before

marrying the plate upto it

 

I'd expect that to take up around half of the play - after that you'll still have a little play left from the mechanisms lock being a springloaded wedge.

 

Overall the play between the plate and the receiver is under a mm - it just translates to a few mill by time you reach the butt area of the stock

 

TBH for the amount of play involved I just couldnt be arsed taking it apart again after I stripped and rebuilt mine for the review :)

 

See, on mine, even when the screws are not bottoming out (I already shortened them substantially) there is play because it seems like the receiver is too thin. Even as the mechanism is tightened to its full extent, there will be play because the gap for the receiver is larger than the thickness of the receiver. So, a shim is the only option; but I would have thought RS would've taken care of this from the factory... :( Oh well!

 

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hello Mate,

 

The LCT AK's are actually the firm that used to supply guarder then Inokatsu and also for G&G AK's. They are a lot cheaper than the firms mentioned above but are just the same quality. most kits only need a hop barrel and gearbox to finish off and are a piece of ###### to put together. The other good thing about LCT is WGC have all the parts in stock so some interesting AK's can be made as all the parts are pretty much interchangeable.

 

I just completed a LCT AMD65 and it's rock solid and looks great in fact here's a picture.

amd-65a.jpg

amd-65.jpg

 

if it's your first time buying and making a LCT ak i would recommend buying a cheap CYMA ak and using the internals. The CYMA gearbox is pretty reliable out the box (in fact the Kalash AK's are as well but if you buy a Kalash you will not want to split it up as they are great!)

 

To build a LCT Ak all you need is a screwdriver, some allen keys and a pair of pliers. If you go down the road of just buying a gearbox, barrel and hop up then go for a madbull tightbore, element Ak hop (a hop rubber of your choice) and then try to find a gearbox that has all the parts you need (selector switch gears and the little part that holds the top receiver on). The Dboys gearbox doesn't come with the receiver part so be careful.

 

If you buy one and have any prblmes drop me a pm.

 

Has any had dealings with the LCT AKs? They are very nice, although they seem'd to of popped out from the blue!

 

Can some one post or PM me details of the LCT aks please. Cheers

 

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Mightyjebus do u buy the whole kit from wgc including the gearbox or just he external parts kit?

Do you have much problems importing it?just curious as the rpk is sooo tempting!

 

I bought the lot from wgc and had no problems. to make things easier send them a scan of your UKARA membership which they stick with the declaration and the UK customs don't seem to have a problem with that.

 

MJ

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